I was doing some maintenance on my car last weekend and changed out the spark plugs (which was surprisingly easy) and intended on replacing the O2 sensor as well. I ended up realizing I don't know how to go about this. I know where it is located, as well as the connector, but I just don't what approach to take to get it out of there. It seems to be in a really weird spot to use a wrench on. Are there any special little tricks to use for it? Any information would be appreciated! Thank you!

-Nick

i think theres a removal tool. try www.bmwe34.net

Thank you, I always forget to use that site, it has a ton of good information.

yup any time

If it's really seized in there you may want to soak it repeatedly with penetrating oil of some kind before attempting the removal. Or better yet remove the cat, which in itself is a major pain.

It looked pretty clean around it actually, I don't think it should be seized up at all at least from a visual inspection, it just seemed to be a very tight and weird configuration for using a wrench of any sort, it also seemed like there wasn't much of the nut on the sensor showing above the exhaust shielding making it even more difficult to get on it efficiently.

I've used an O2 sensor offset wrench with success or you can cut the wire and use a regular box wrench to remove it. You will need the proper tool to install it though with a torque spec also (in the bentley)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21YWFGHGKTL._AA250_.jpg

Thank you for the information, I pan on doing this this weekend.

nice let us know how it goes

alrighty! will do.

I can't tell you how freakin amazed i was when i started working at the shop i'm at now, and he didn't have an O2 socket. Anyway, O2 sensors have a habit of getting ridiculously seized depending on the frequency of removal, and also if the jerk that did em last put anti-seize on the threads. (hint: PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON THE DAMN THREADS!!!)

I've snapped a great deal of the sockets trying to get em out, heat is your friend while doing this... I suppose you don't have an oxy torch at your house... but if you can somehow find one, it'll make your life 100X easier. If not, remember, if it's in there good, you'll prolly need a cheater bar. in a pinch, you can use the longest ratchet you have, take the longest extension you have, put a socket that'll fit on the handle, and pop the extension in the socket, giving you a much longer lever to get that sucker out. Good luck!

Drop the exhaust, too. I can never get leverage on the sucker unless the exhaust is dropped.

first of all dont drive the car the day u r planning on changing the sensor, soak the hell out of the o2 sensor with wd40 and pb-blaster (spray ALOT) go to any local auto store with tool rentals... rent the o2 sensor removal tool. i used autozone cuz i just pay a deposit and it gets returned when the tool is returned. other than that, after the o2 sensor is changed make sure u start the car outside the garage with the hood open cuz the anti seize spray will "smoke away"

gl.

Another trick is to crack off the ceramic head and clip the wire, leaving just the base to soak and bust loose. This gives more clearance and allows the use of a conventional socket.

Thank you all for the help, it will be a lot easier knowing all of the tricks that you have filled me in on, I appreciate it.

I can't tell you how freakin amazed i was when i started working at the shop i'm at now, and he didn't have an O2 socket. Anyway, O2 sensors have a habit of getting ridiculously seized depending on the frequency of removal, and also if the jerk that did em last put anti-seize on the threads. (hint: PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON THE DAMN THREADS!!!)

I've snapped a great deal of the sockets trying to get em out, heat is your friend while doing this... I suppose you don't have an oxy torch at your house... but if you can somehow find one, it'll make your life 100X easier. If not, remember, if it's in there good, you'll prolly need a cheater bar. in a pinch, you can use the longest ratchet you have, take the longest extension you have, put a socket that'll fit on the handle, and pop the extension in the socket, giving you a much longer lever to get that sucker out. Good luck!

My dad has a torch at our house but it might be out of gas, if it is would a propane blow torch be a suitable substitute?

I Paid Meineke $50 Bucks And They Removed My Bad One That Was The Oem One That Had Never Been Removed AND INSTALLED MY NEW ONE. They Had To Drop The Exhaust And Drill It Out And Re-tep The Hole.

It Was Worth Every Dime To Be Able To Drop It Off And Pick It Back Up 2 Hours Later. ;)

Thank you all for the help, it will be a lot easier knowing all of the tricks that you have filled me in on, I appreciate it.



My dad has a torch at our house but it might be out of gas, if it is would a propane blow torch be a suitable substitute?

acetylene torch... propane burns at about... 1800-1900 C, acetylene burns at over 3000 C... Propane torches are useless... the next best thing would be to go to a hardware store and find a small MAPP gas torch... usually around 60 bucks... look for the two tanks, it'll do the trick in a pinch.

acetylene torch... propane burns at about... 1800-1900 C, acetylene burns at over 3000 C... Propane torches are useless... the next best thing would be to go to a hardware store and find a small MAPP gas torch... usually around 60 bucks... look for the two tanks, it'll do the trick in a pinch.

Propane is fine. You just might have to hold it there a little longer.

Propane is fine. You just might have to hold it there a little longer.

Define "a little"... Whenever i've used those crappy propane torches i've literally emptied the bloody bottle heating bolts and the like. i have a mapp gas torch at home, for my side projects, got it on sale for 39 bucks... Heating and quenching a bolt takes FOREVER with propane...

But, on the other hand... maybe i was just too darn impatient, or doing it wrong with the propane torch..? (wrong tip or something?) If propane works for you, maybe i'll give it another try sometime and see what happens...

acetylene torch ftw

When I did the swap on my bucket I replaced the rear manifold gasket but not before a lot of issues getting the nuts, eventually with the stud. I found that quenching the problem areas several times makes them much more agreable

Define "a little"... Whenever i've used those crappy propane torches i've literally emptied the bloody bottle heating bolts and the like. i have a mapp gas torch at home, for my side projects, got it on sale for 39 bucks... Heating and quenching a bolt takes FOREVER with propane...

But, on the other hand... maybe i was just too darn impatient, or doing it wrong with the propane torch..? (wrong tip or something?) If propane works for you, maybe i'll give it another try sometime and see what happens...

MAPP burns a little hotter, but not a lot. My point is he doesn't have to go out and buy a MAPP setup because the propane will work just as well for the application. The difference in temperature negligible.

http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/gasTypeComparisons.jhtml

Propane is 3450*F
MAPP is 3650*F