Does anybody have any suggestions for a household 110V AC to 12V power supply/converter for testing Hella Gen III HID ballasts/D2S bulbs?

I would like to test some E39 headlights away from the car or without using a car battery. I am planning to take pictures of projector headlight patterns in a 'controllable' environment (i.e. not against my garage door) for comparison.
thanks!

Does anybody have any suggestions for a household 110V AC to 12V power supply/converter for testing Hella Gen III HID ballasts/D2S bulbs?

I would like to test some E39 headlights away from the car or without using a car battery. I am planning to take pictures of projector headlight patterns in a 'controllable' environment (i.e. not against my garage door) for comparison.
thanks!

More info...so here are the specs for the Hella (Philips) Gen III ballast:
Philips LVQ-212 (Gen. III) Ballast
Model: LVQ212 – L300
Specifications:
DOT, ECE Approved
Input Voltage: 9-16V
Start Voltage: 23KV
Normal Current: 3.2A
Normal Voltage: 13.2V
Output: 35W
Maximum Input Current: 20A
Operating Temperature: -40C - +105C

My question is:
Will this simple 12V power supply in the 3.8A configuration do the trick?
Specs (the 3.8A version):
Model Number PST-AC1238 Switching Power Supply Input Voltage Range 90-240 VAC 50/60 Hz
Peak Output Power 48 Watts, 60 watts surge
Load Regulation ±3% over rated current: 3.8 Amps
Output Voltage 12 VDC

Link:
http://www.powerstream.com/ac-1245.htm

I looked at some variable DC power supplies but they're some bigger $'s.

And what about grounding?
Other issues?
Thanks...

I don't know much about power supplies, or electricity for that matter. It seems to supply enough current for the lights and the voltage is in range. A switching power supply might have some issues that would create problems for your use, but I don't really know.

Why not just use a car battery?

Just use your car battery...

or buy a transformer

More info...so here are the specs for the Hella (Philips) Gen III ballast:
Philips LVQ-212 (Gen. III) Ballast
Model: LVQ212 – L300
Specifications:
DOT, ECE Approved
Input Voltage: 9-16V
Start Voltage: 23KV
Normal Current: 3.2A
Normal Voltage: 13.2V
Output: 35W
Maximum Input Current: 20A
Operating Temperature: -40C - +105C

My question is:
Will this simple 12V power supply in the 3.8A configuration do the trick?
Specs (the 3.8A version):
Model Number PST-AC1238 Switching Power Supply Input Voltage Range 90-240 VAC 50/60 Hz
Peak Output Power 48 Watts, 60 watts surge
Load Regulation ±3% over rated current: 3.8 Amps
Output Voltage 12 VDC

Link:
http://www.powerstream.com/ac-1245.htm

I looked at some variable DC power supplies but they're some bigger $'s.

And what about grounding?
Other issues?
Thanks...

Use that system and you'll fry the power supply, the lights, or both.

The lights are 13V @ 20A max = 260Watts. The power supply is 60W max.

Grounding is accomplished via the black connection to the power supply. Power via the Red.

My suggestion? Get an inexpensive car battery (even the smallest one will work) and a charger for it. The battery will smooth out any of the peaks in current draw and is capable of providing much higher instantaneous current.

d-

Get a computer Power Supply...You would then have to figure out which wires to bridge to get it to turn on...Or you can just open up your PC and splice into the Yellow and Black for 12Volts...Thats what I do.

Get a computer Power Supply...You would then have to figure out which wires to bridge to get it to turn on...Or you can just open up your PC and splice into the Yellow and Black for 12Volts...Thats what I do.
If that setup has worked for you, I'll give it a try. I have an old 300W PSU and a 480W PSU available. I'll check on the bridging to get the PSU to turn on without being connected to a motherboard, then I would have a standalone system (more or less).
Then I just need to figure out good reference surface/distance for comparing projected beam patterns - indoors against white wall, basement wall, outside onto the garage door, etc.