I am replacing my automatic Transmission on my 1991 850i.I have the notorious "trans fail safe "code .My car has over 110K miles. After much searching on line and after taking it to stealer for diagnosis (no answer ,waste of money). I decided to pull my transmission.
I have remooved complete exhaust ,drive line,rear tranny crossmember, torque converter bolts ,all the lower bell housing bolts .lower starter bolt.
My question is how in the heck do I access the rest of the top half bell housing bolts???? Do I have to purchase some special wrech? please help....

has anyone have experience replacing this transmission? anyone ??????

Are you sure it's not an electronic problem?

have you tried to "reset" the EGS box in the trunk? (unplug for 10-15 minutes)?
TRANS FAIL SAFE message can appear for a number of reasons, not necessarily a mechanically bad transmission.
Can you elaborate on the transmission symptoms prior to you removing all those things?

no its not electrical ,i checked the battery and cables,anyway.before iI embarked on this project.Sometimes it would make knocking noise .I took it to dealer and they advised me to replace transmission ,they charged me 250 for 2.5 hours and could not tell me exactly what was wrong ...

If you could help me out ,and tell me how to remoove the top remainig bell housing to engine bolt remooval,I remooved the lower six ,need help with the remaining.......

have you tried to "reset" the EGS box in the trunk? (unplug for 10-15 minutes)?
TRANS FAIL SAFE message can appear for a number of reasons, not necessarily a mechanically bad transmission.
Can you elaborate on the transmission symptoms prior to you removing all those things?
At highway speed it would loose power and not kickdown (detent)felt like it just lost power,then I would let off the gas then on again and it would regain power.I would shut it off ,then restart and trans fail light would clear then it would run right shift normally but it just felt like it had no power.I also serviced the transmission before and it continued with the same problem...

Are you sure this was not the motor going into "limp mode" at highway speeds? Did it do this at slower speeds? Any wierd shifting? I'm still not convinced it's the tranny(mechanical). However- to answer your question:
Remove the cabin air intake plenum at the rear of the motor/firewall. You should be able to get to the bolts then.

Are you sure this was not the motor going into "limp mode" at highway speeds? Did it do this at slower speeds? Any wierd shifting? I'm still not convinced it's the tranny(mechanical). However- to answer your question:
Remove the cabin air intake plenum at the rear of the motor/firewall. You should be able to get to the bolts then.It did not do it at slow speeds ( TFS off/normal in town driving).it shifted normally exept it didnt have power shifts.I mean normal driving was ok but when I got on the gas it just did not impress me took a while before it got up..It got worse after it illustraded the trans fail safe code after highway driving ..(TFS would only come on after highway driving)
When the TFS light was on and I drove around town transmission began to knock when I got on the gas ...Dealer could not pin point problem....They just took my money and told me to replace the transmission.. Again ,the TFS light would shut offf when I would restart the car...

Just an opinion-
It sounds like the motor might be going to limp mode (running on 6cyl) when highway driving. For that I might suspect fuel pump/filter/supply. When you are trying to regain power working the pedal, that is what throws the trans fail safe as a result. If tranny probs, I would expect a trans fail safe long before highway driving. Now the bad news for the knocking- sounds like you may have damaged the tranny pushing it so hard taking off in 3rd gear. Have you read an owners manual on your car? Do you have any service info/documentation?

I Agree with you guys, Tranny sounds good, Mines was the fuel pump causing me to go nuts and TFS at the same time.

CPS failure and clogged fuel filter caused my TRANS FAIL SAFE error message. Agree that it may not be a mechanical problem (at least not originally)

sure wish you came here first before taking your car apart. Since you're there, check the joints on the driveshaft, replace transmis mounts, ck rear dif and trans shaft seals. Don't forget to preload the carrier bearing when re-installing driveshaft. When you get all that back together, replace the fuel filters. If you already have a trans sitting there ready to go in, I guess I would install it now anyway, but I don't think that;s your original problem.

I purchased the car or should I say was given the car (retired Doctor).For the amount of 2500.$dollars.No ,I do not have Service manual or owners manual.I have to buy a torx wrench to remoove the remaining bolts .Any one know a good reputable BMW transmission shop in Central California./Sacramento Area.Thanks for the Help so far Guys...

I Agree with you guys, Tranny sounds good, Mines was the fuel pump causing me to go nuts and TFS at the same time.good to know this

CPS failure and clogged fuel filter caused my TRANS FAIL SAFE error message. Agree that it may not be a mechanical problem (at least not originally)
CPS ?crank or cam position sensor? Dont know info on my car yet.Need to read up and educate my self .I need to purchase or dload a pdf manual from some one ..

Tom has some great PDF Manuals!

http://www.wuffer.net/page5.html

go here-
http://www.wuffer.net

download then read,read,read!
You need to get educated somewhat on how these cars work. Find a good mechanic who is familiar with 8's. As you are witnessing, it can sometimes be very expensive and time consuming when it could be a minor fix. These cars are sometimes harder to figure out than a woman, get used to it! Read up and come back with any questions before proceeding.

wuffernet in stereo... 8eights and I posted at exactly 11:17 !

Lol!!!

Had the same problem on my #2 car. Was a faulty MAF. You have fallen into the "Trans Fail Safe Prog" trap in thinking is is a transmission problem. Its not.

A bad impulse sender (donut sensor on #6 and #12 HT leads) will cause the TFS mode as well.

Yup, could be MAF or Intake Manifild Gaskets, Fuel filters, Batteries, etc... Not tranny. The dealer/mechanic you went too is incompetent-which is actually quite typical. Get yourself a mechanic who knows E31!

Best of luck...
Cheers

PS. Welcome!

it cost me $1600.00 t rebuild and yes there was internal damage, no surprise there....

I finished the install yesterday .I made sure atf level was full..I put the car through all the gear selections and it engages ,Drives fine.I only drove it around the block twice .I will tow it to the transmission shop to have them check and make any adjustments ...

I have a check engine light that comes on during warm up ,but then shuts off when it reaches normall operating temp....This was not occuring before tranny R&R..
I have tried to do the self diagnostics flash code method,described here http://www.e31faq.com/Default.aspx?catId=89 but for some reason it is not working for me....I will re-check for any disconnected connectors .

Hello

Which transmission oil did you use?

I used valvoline Mercon5 full synthetic .Hello

Which transmission oil did you use?

They usually have a long life special fluid in them. However many do use alternatives with no issues.

Ok ,this morning after much reluctance ,I test drove the car .I did some in town driving.It shifted normally like before.
I went for a country drive and the dam TFS came on again.I floored the pedal,
it would not drive above 50mph.I pulled over and shut the car off.I turned it on and TFS light was nowhere to be seen .I jently drove back home...Did not want to damage tranny again like the previous owner..
I immediately checked all connections.Everything looked fine..I then decided to inspect MAFs.Checked connections ,remooved air filters and noticed that they were both K&N .I immediately cleaned MAFs with carb cleaner.Tossed K&N filters in garbage can. I know about the fact that the oil can contaminate the heated wire element in the MAFs and give the ecu faulty readings..I learned this from working on my JDM nissan sr20det.Sold it:(..Yeah ,Yeah I drift...
I went for a test drive and I did 120mph(had to back off,ran out of straight) with no problem!!!Top end is crazy!!!It kicks down properly now @ Highway cruise speeds...It is Idling a little rough.I will be changing spark plugs next,Along with fuel filter.
By the way I also just purchased a 1997 540i.I love the way both cars handle.Im a new believer and convert to the ultimate driving machine...
Haleluya!!!

Yes, those wet air filter sytems are sh*t on your MAFs. They will clog the filament up & you will also lose HP using K&N, etc...

Rough idle? Replace sparks (use only OEM!!!!) and O2 sensors, Intake Manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel filters, clean DK motors...

Happy cruising

Yes, those wet air filter sytems are sh*t on your MAFs. They will clog the filament up & you will also lose HP using K&N, etc...

Rough idle? Replace sparks (use only OEM!!!!) and O2 sensors, Intake Manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel filters, clean DK motors...

Happy cruisingI am still new to these cars.I have 2 questions for you.
1.can I just go to local AutoZone and get OEM plugs or Do I have to go to the stealer.
More important : 2.I will be cleaning the Throttle body DK motors,can you elaborate on this procedure?Do i just pull the black motor assembly housings on TBs and clean with carb cleaner?

Yes, those wet air filter sytems are sh*t on your MAFs. They will clog the filament up & you will also lose HP using K&N, etc...

Rough idle? Replace sparks (use only OEM!!!!) and O2 sensors, Intake Manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, fuel filters, clean DK motors...

Happy cruising
Damn- hit him with another 2k!

I am still new to these cars.I have 2 questions for you.
1.can I just go to local AutoZone and get OEM plugs or Do I have to go to the stealer.
More important : 2.I will be cleaning the Throttle body DK motors,can you elaborate on this procedure?Do i just pull the black motor assembly housings on TBs and clean with carb cleaner?


I have tried the OEM BOSCH F8CLR and "others". Personally, my M70 engine is running on NGK ZFR5F Plugs and kickin' ass all the way. $22 for a set of twelve, and best yet: available just about EVERYWHERE! (not like the BOSCH plugs).

...oh, yeah - FLAME ON!

I intalled FRAM air filters thinking it would be the last of the TFS warning .I drove it on the highway and tfs came on....Shit I think I have a bad MAF ,When I completely remoove both filter it drivesgreat and no freaking TFS!I know Im going to get flamed on this .How in the heck can I check the MAFS?I know the MAFS are notorious for going bad /yes I searched .Im gonna buy one and do the po-man diagnosis ,switch it until it fixes the prob ..I hope I dont have to buy two of them ....

I swear by NGK or ND plugs for my cars and bikes...........DK cleaning is a little more involved than some carb cleaner...........check wuffers site for details.........

Hi guys, just join the forum, i do have a bit of a problem with my 840 ci 1996 model, got into my car this morning to go out and the car wont start. i have "TRANS FAIL-SAFE PROG" on the teltel, i have disconnected the battery terminals for over two hrs, still it wont start, there were some sign last month but dont know if linked, on hard breaking the motor cuts out, and the TFS come on the teltel but after 20mins the car starts and drives normal, any help from any one? the symtons are a bit deffirent from the ones staed earlier Help pls.

Lewis,

This thread is over an year old. Anyway, the first thing to check would be the condition of your batteries. My recommendation would be to charge the batteries out of the car and then have them tested.

You also want to check the battery connections for both batteries.

Thanks Ahmed, is that all? low battrey?

Your 860 is mint, very rear piece, bless

Thats not all but a good start.

Thanks

I have tried the OEM BOSCH F8CLR and "others". Personally, my M70 engine is running on NGK ZFR5F Plugs and kickin' ass all the way. $22 for a set of twelve, and best yet: available just about EVERYWHERE! (not like the BOSCH plugs).

...oh, yeah - FLAME ON!

You won't be getting any flame from me, TxGR8White. I read your thread elsewhere, took your comment to heart and went with the NGK ZFR5F from PartsGeek (they had them in stock at the time)...just about $24 for the 12.

Chris @:-)

Thats not all but a good start.

Thanks

Hi all, i just got two new batteries on the car, on start TFS still came onn but this the motor crancked over for while(very strong should have started but didnt) i try to repeat starting the car but this time wont tick over, am helpless any other thing i can try?

A bad impulse sender (donut sensor on #6 and #12 HT leads) will cause the TFS mode as well.

hi donut sensor on #6 and #12 HT leads, can you pls elabarte on this. what is HT LEADS?

HT (High Tension) leads - that is basically what is known as the sparkplug wire. The #6 and #12 wires have a "donut" around them near the distributor. This is the impulse sender which tells the computer exactly where the crank, pistons, etc is at any given time. This does NOT apply to you since you do not have a #12 cylinder (or a 9, 10, or 11 for that matter).

Might be missing something but I think he's going to have a hard time finding #12, it's a 840! 4 short- couldn't resist....again!