Here is my build primarily for NASA GTS. I began the project as w/ LS1 power and a Jerico Nextel Cup trans. I had to abort and go in a different direction due to a rules change:mad.

I ended up selling the Jerico, engine and clutch/bellhousing and buying a complete wreck 97 M3 Sedan.

Donor M3. Crashed at VIR.

To make the cage install a bit easier, I removed the roof skin and bought a non-sunroof skin from my local BMW stealer. Side exit exhaust tunnel and seat mount. I had to cut out part of the tunnel to move the seat toward the center. The "Big Boy" seat was a tight fit in the Sedan.

Window net install. Both retaining bars pivot on Heim joints. The lower front bar hooks on the cage. The upper bar is spring loaded. When the top is released, the net falls away completely alowing for exit. Last pic is side exit exhaust hole.

Wilwood Pedal assembly, Sweet collapsible column with roller bearing u-joints. I have since tied in the strut towers to the cage and added some foot protection. I also added addl' support for the column. No, the steering column doesn't flex or move around.

I love these build threads!! So cool!! Good luck!

It is slow going. One man show here. Thanks for the encouragement.

i understand, i think a lot of us are one-man shows, trying to squeeze it between work obligations.

cool to see another E36 sedan build. i'm interested in seeing your strut tower tie-ins, since i'm doing that tomorrow on mine. how did you tie in the subframe? what is the M3 donating? engine and tranny? diff? suspension and brake parts?

i understand, i think a lot of us are one-man shows, trying to squeeze it between work obligations.

cool to see another E36 sedan build. i'm interested in seeing your strut tower tie-ins, since i'm doing that tomorrow on mine. how did you tie in the subframe? what is the M3 donating? engine and tranny? diff? suspension and brake parts?

I will post some pics of the strut and subframe tie-ins.

The M3 will be donating the engine/trans/diff. I have a 60% LSD diff but it was geared for the V8. I am looking for another ring and pinion to redo that diff.

Shocks are Moton CS. For brakes I am using M3 spindles with Porsche S4 (aka Big Black calipers) with 330x32 Wilwood Rotors and hats for the front and M3 rears. I am making my own adaptor brackets. The calipers were left over from my Porsche racecar and I figure I would put them to use. I am on a bit of a budget so I am trying to be resourceful and use what I have. I am sure many will say my parts selection is not ideal.

we are all on a budget... unfortunately, they are blown budgets :)

Nice build and nice work.

Vince

Interesting to see what a GTS-purpose build is going to look like. Most of the GTS 3 are CCA IP builds that cross over. It's only a matter of time before people actually build right for the series and take advantage of the 'no rules' approach to build some sweet handling cars.

Now where's that "eating popcorn" emoticon?

---edit: Found it. :eatpop:

If I was buiding for GTS, I would build tube frame.

If I was building the ultimate cross over, BMWCCA and GTS car, I would build a partial tube frame (front/rear), run it in Mod, and GTS.

Money no object - that's what I would do.

And if thats the way we want BMWCCA Club Racing to go (power to weight) that is what is going to happen to us also - eventually.

can you define partial tube frame? does that mean replacing the stock subframes with a space frame chassis? or simply tying the rollcage into the subframe?

watch the build on my car, it'll get closer and closer to 3/4 tube frame. basically, now that the shock towers are tied in, what's the point of actual shock towers? Plate it and hang it off the cage. Rear subframe tied in? ditch the actual sub frame and go tubular. Think watts car with more tubes and less chassis. Stock (but modified) firewall. stock, but aluminum, floor pans. Framerails that are technically tubing basically. As long as the "tub" is recognizable. SM for cca, GT for scca, GTS for NASA allowed.

If I was buiding for GTS, I would build tube frame.


You take a pretty big hit for a tube frame. If you're on non-DOT tires, you're bumped up a class. So a 300hp tube framed would be in the same class as a 415hp non tube framed car (gts4 bumped to gts5). Running on DOT tires the hit isn't as bad. But partial tube frames don't get the bump.

I think the OP's original idea for GTS was the best way, but luckily for the rest of us it's not legal any more.

looks like a lot of work.

I think the OP's original idea for GTS was the best way, but luckily for the rest of us it's not legal any more.

When I first came up with my LS1/Jerico plan there wasn't much talk about non-manufacturer engines in a particular chassis. I even confirmed the plan w/ NASA rules makers. A few months later the chatter on Nasaforums started. Most people felt like the it was not within the Spirit of the Rules. Well, since it wasn't specifically banned by the rules I figured it would be a fun car to build. Then one of the NASA guys posted it would be legal in 2007 but "may" not be legal in 2008. That is when I decided to bail out of the LS1 project before I got to the point of no return. In the end, I was actually able to make some money on the parts I had collected.
BTW, the LS1 engine I had now resides in a Porsche 951 that runs at some NASA events here in the Mid-Atlantic.

can you define partial tube frame? does that mean replacing the stock subframes with a space frame chassis? or simply tying the rollcage into the subframe?

What I mean by partial tube frame is outlined in the BMW Club Racing rules -

Modified Rule 10.
F.
Partial tube frame construction is allowed. Construction must be based upon factory chassis. VIN numbers on the cowl and doorframe must be in place, or the door sill tag must be intact if originally supplied. The A, B and C pillars must be OE both in angles, length and location. Roof must be OE. OE rocker panels must be used.

Therefore, cut the front frame horns off at the firewall, and gut the rear of the car behind the C-Pillar, keep the sheet metal looking like a BMW and use the factory rocker panels. Beyond that, the sky is the limit.

You could build a double A-arm front and rear suspension hanging off tube frame/subframes and have a killer GTS and BMWCCA Club Racing Modified class car.

You take a pretty big hit for a tube frame.

Yeah, but here lies the problem of GTS Rules - who defines "tube frame"? What if I kept the BMW Center section from Firewall to Rear bulkhead, but everything else was tube frame?

All rule sets have issues, and when people start building to the extent of the GTS rules, then they will have issues also. By the way, what is the "extent" of the GTS rules?? That's the gray area!

Yeah, but here lies the problem of GTS Rules - who defines "tube frame"? What if I kept the BMW Center section from Firewall to Rear bulkhead, but everything else was tube frame?

All rule sets have issues, and when people start building to the extent of the GTS rules, then they will have issues also. By the way, what is the "extent" of the GTS rules?? That's the gray area!

They do make a limited definition of tube frame vs partial tube frame, and your example would be a partial tube frame (I think) which is no class change. There's also some talk about it on the NASA forum.

The extent of GTS???? It'll take a lot of money to find that, a whole lot!

It's clearly an evolving rule set, which can be bad for people like the OP if he had built the car a year ago. But for now it should make for a fun series for under powered mod cars to cross over into. :)

How much would you estimate the steering column and everything needed to set it up cost you?

How much would you estimate the steering column and everything needed to set it up cost you?

The column, various brackets, bearings, u-joints etc was about $500. You can go with a Woodward column but it is alot more. The Sweet column is pretty decent. You can buy one off Ebay from Speedway Motors for about $250 but then you have to buy all of the other bits to make it work. I had to fab up an adaptor to mate it up to my BMW rack.

FYI, a complete Nascar 2" Woodward system is not much more.

As far as the tube frame, I think you won't end up saving much weight, it'll moreso be advantageous for getting better suspension. Ditching the trailing arm, ditch macpherson. You can get a push and pull rod setup in there, run inboard dampers, probably cut 75-100lbs in suspension mounts/hardware. This is why I am interested to see how low Phil can get his E36 to before he needs to add tubes to replace structure his unibody lost from "swiss cheesing."

Its tough to save weight with converting a unibody under BMWCCA rules since you have to keep a lot of the unibody, or you are just replacing sheet metal with sheet metal...not much weight saving there since you are now adding tubing...and you need a structure, not just support tubes now. So its a compromise.

I was going to do a semi-tube frame, ditch the rear subframe and rear suspension, and do a full tubular front end suspension mount (keeping macpherson). I decided not to because of maintenance and repairs. One off road adventure or meeting with a tire wall and you have a LOT of fab work ahead of you...as opposed to just bolting in a new subframe or "off the shelf" components.

In the end, if you have the power, the grip, and mostly the driver, you can win without going to the extremes...this is what has changed my project from Supermod to "plain ole BM" :)

Wow sick, I can't wait to see more progress on this build.

Nice work. keep us updated.

Here is an update on my car. Since the last post I have modified the chassis for non stock rear control arms. It was hard to get decent welds do to the various contaminants that cannot be completely removed. For the most part they are decent but my expectations are always pretty high. I went ahead and painted all of the wheel wells and engine bay while I waited for my 2 punch/flare tools from Mittler Brothers.

I ordered a 1 inch and a 1.25 inch Punch/flare tools from Mittler Brothers. These things are awesome. I punched and flared 27 holes in about 30 min. I used these to tie my cage into the a-pillars and b-pillars. I thought about using the punch/flare on my door X gusset but I chose not to.


With the punch/flare tool, all you need to do is drill a pilot hole and insert the bolt and tool thru the hole and tighten. You end up with a finished, flared hole. There is no cleaning/deburring necessary.

I also added jack reinforcements to both sides. The lower tube on my cage is tied into the inner rocker panel. The one inch tube goes thru the floor to a plate on the underside. Door bar X. B-pillar gusset.

Tonight, I am going to fab up a dead pedal out of some sheet metal.

I also need to find a mounting position for my kill switch. I am thinking of mounting it in the car with a cable running to a remote location on the exterior for the car.

Also need to figure out where to drill my holes for my remote reservoir Motons. Anyone have any pics of where they have holes for this application?

nice cage, i like the B pillars and jack support. does the jack support bar attach to a baseplate or to the floorboard?

i have my kill switch on the passenger side facing forward from the main hoop

nice cage, i like the B pillars and jack support. does the jack support bar attach to a baseplate or to the floorboard?

i have my kill switch on the passenger side facing forward from the main hoop

Attaches to the base plate which is welded to the bottom of the car.


BTW: Is there a reason why my pics don't show up when I look at my thread? It has never happened to me before.