Guys.

I have recently bought a 633CSI that has not been started for some 10 years. this is a quick summary of what I have done"

I connected the fuel pump to another power source and have fuel pressure
right up to the fuel rail .
I have spark
I have clean fuel filters , fuel ect.
last night I tried to start it with no luck . I squirted fuel into the
manifold chamber and the motor kicked over , it actually ran for about 2
seconds until the fuel I was adding by hand ran out
I have power going to the injectors.
Logically , it would appear that the engine can run but there is not fuel going from the injectors to the engine ( keeping in mind that there is power to the injectors , fuel system fully pressurised and i can actually hear the injectors operating)
I read in the book that the ECU operates the fuel pump pressure / flow depending on the crank cycle ...there is also a point type set up that measures this in the distributor ( i would of thought that the crank sensor took care of that )
Anyway , because the fuel pump is hard wired into an axillary source , there should technically be no resistance on the fuel rate/flow due to nothing being supplied on the pump , therefore I should be getting the maximum flow ( keeping in mind that any relays ,resistors that would limit the fuel pump , would be in the wiring harness , which the pump is not connected to )
So , should I attempt to fix the initial problem with the relay or power problem going to the fuel pump ( I don't see how that would do anything as I have full pressure in the fuel-rails and I can hear the injectors
operating)
Or , could it be something much more simple like broken and clogged injectors from the bad fuel.

Please help !!

Hi, this may be off to the side of the fuel issue, but did you do a compression test? reason is that if it's been sitting a long time and the rings are frozen you could be just passing fuel into the sump and it won't build enough compression to fire. I once had to soak a motor in a mix and crank it for a wk or so before the rings loosened up. When I started to get compression I changed the oil and gave it a tiny little shot of ether and that got it going.....my other thought is the fuel pressure regulator. I know you said you have fuel to the rail but if I'm correct it's the regulated pressure at the return side of the rail that counts most...and you said spark is good right? strong coil? good luck, Joe

Thanx Joe.

I do have compression , I can actually get the motor to fire when spraying fuel into the manifold through a spray bottle (only for for 2 seconds or so ) so I'm surre it's not the spark ect . - I haven't though of the regulator though ...thanx

My E30 had similar problems and it was a combination of the regulator and the thermo-time switch. If you don't have it, you can get your 633 ETM from this list. (http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm)
It's pretty handy in general, and there's an entire section on everything that controls the spark system. New relays wouldn't be a bad idea anyway, and they could be a problem since you have it running on auxiliary power. Not that they are contributing to the problem at the moment since they aren't connected...

Alex

Normally you start with the foot off of the throttle, try slowly opening the throttle while you crank. There is a throttle position switch that tells the ECU when the throttle is off idle and takes control away from the Idle Speed Control Unit. If this switch were bad or out of adjustment, the Idle control valve may be wide open or completely closed because the Idle Speed Control Unit is not controlling it and the mixture may be wrong.

There could be many other things wrong. Could you have a large vacuum leak, i.e. is the oil filler cap on, check the valve cover vent hose, etc. The air flow meter flap could be binding.

Do you have a Bentley Manual? Do download the ETM from the link above.