Hey all, today was SI Board day and I'm hoping that after you read this you might be able to add some thoughts. Right up front let me say that this is not like Jeffs project w/ Wolfie. I don't have the patience for all that, though I learned a lot following the job. I ordered a reman board from European Electric down in Tenn., piece looks impressive enough and 2 day delivery worked for me. I left the steering wheel on but dropped the column and the cluster was out and on the kitchen table in short order. Oh..problems we're inop speedo and inspection light would not reset...So anyways I pull the cluster all apart and find the speedo gears in perfect condition, lubed and everything. I spun them by hand and the odo and speedo started counting miles. The batteries looked like one was leaking and I put my meter on them. One was at 1.004 volts and the other at 1.08. and there was signs of corrosion on the back of the board. I put the new one in, and reassembled the cluster.

I then went out to clear some old alarm wires out and found 2 ground wires that go to the speedo plug crushed and stretched...and I'm thinking Damn! here's my inop speedo!!. So spliced them, cleaned out the other wires and reinstalled the cluster. Hit it with reset tool and the inspection light went out, green lights came on...cool...test drive..speedo works, YAY! inspection light is back on along with this light..( ! )..that has been on since I've had the car. Comes on the very first time I step on the brakes and stays on till I shut it down. Now's time for the questions...Is this a sensor? My brake pads are new, done by others, are there warning sensors for these and is the symbol? There is a seperate ABS light that does not come on. And then I got thinking, would a failed plunger at the hydraulic resivoir set this light off also? I'm thinking along the lines that when this brake symbol lights up, my inspection light comes on too. Any thoughts? Oh yeah, start to finish, taking my time and trying not to break anything was about 5 hrs.

Almost forgot...Being ignorant of changes between yr models I went ahead and bought a gauge cluster out of an 87 sixer. I thought if I needed parts or something but I used nothing from it other than as a test mule to take it apart and reassemble to get the experience before doing mine....So if some one needs it or wants parts off it give me a holler. The batteries read 1.726 and 1.709. The board is clean and dry, no corrosion. The speedo needs the tiny little drive gear on the end. The other gauges are there as well as the 2 switches... Like I said..I'm done with it and if someone can use it then here it is. Make a reasonable offer, like cheap so I can get it outta here:D

I think I have another photo..yeah on the euro, you'll find this plug floating around back there. It's not used. Just tape it back on the harness. I also taped all loose wires to the back of the cluster to avoid them getting pinched when raising the column.

Almost forgot...Being ignorant of changes between yr models I went ahead and bought a gauge cluster out of an 87 sixer. I thought if I needed parts or something but I used nothing from it other than as a test mule to take it apart and reassemble to get the experience before doing mine....So if some one needs it or wants parts off it give me a holler. The batteries read 1.726 and 1.709. The board is clean and dry, no corrosion. The speedo needs the tiny little drive gear on the end. The other gauges are there as well as the 2 switches... Like I said..I'm done with it and if someone can use it then here it is. Make a reasonable offer, like cheap so I can get it outta here:D

Well, I have an '87, and although there is nothing currently wrong with mine, that could go a different route at any time. Honestly Joe, I wouldnt know WHERE to begin in an offer. Can you PM me with what you feel its worth please? If its out of my range, I'll let you know. Thanks!

Adam

Hey Adam, Before I forget, I gotta tell ya I loved that line "I spend more than $500 in booze a yr, buy it" in that thread about that 633 that guy was looking at. I was laughing so hard cuz that's just like something I'd say!...anyways, this dude in upstate NY sold me this thing saying it was great and perfectly working order and blah, blah. So I think what the hell and buy it, in case I need the speedo head or something. Well you read my post. as far as I can tell the only thing it needs is the small speedo gear. I paid $80 plus shipping and had my ass handed to me. We know the gear's bad and that's $25 plus shipping, How's $30 and I'll split the shipping. Is that too much? Joe

Where is the "( ! )" indicator light located? Below the green SI lights? If so, it is the active check warning light. The brake lights aren't tested until the first time they are used. Try the reset/bulb test button at the bottom of the active check panel and see if it resets the warning light. Also see if the "brake lights" check bulb is burned out in the active check panel when you push the reset/bulb test button .

let me know if he decides not to buy it cuz i need one for my 85 euro. if it works.

this (!) symbol shows up in a light below the tach. The ABS light is to the leftand the handbrake light is to the right. I will try the active check panel too. thanks.

Ok, It's not the active check warning, usually that is a yellow triangle or just the words "Check" below the SI lights on the U.S spec cars, I didn't know what the Euro spec cars had.

Maybe someone with a Euro can chime in with what this symble means?

On my car the lights in that row below the tach are as follows:

Brake Lining, Anti-Lock (or ABS), Brake, Park Brake, Oil, battery

The first is the wear indicator for the brake pads. The third position, "Brake", which matches the position of your "( ! )", has 3 things in the brake system that can trigger it.

Have you checked the level of the ATF in the PS reservoir which also checks the operation of the brake bomb?

It's the 3 switches in the lower left hand corner:
(If the image dosen't load - http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm127.htm )
http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/bmwetm127.jpg

Chris what are the 3 items that trigger the 'brake' light?

-Jeff

They are the 3 switches in the lower left hand corner of the illustration above, the brake fluid level switch and 2 pressure switches on the regulator. One is set to 323psi and monitors the minimum pressure in the brake accumulator (aka the brake "bomb"). The other is set to 22 psi and monitors the minimum pressure in the power steering system. Now 22psi seems pretty low for a system that can build 1500 psi, but the pump is a positive displacement pump which means that the fluid must continually recirculate through the system. If it were to circulate at 1500 psi, the heat from the friction would build to the point of being a fire hazard (Aircraft have caught fire because of this). So there is a bypass valve that allows circulation at a low pressure until there is a demand on the system. Basically the 22psi is to tell if there is a failure of the PS pump, I.E. the belt came off.

I was out working on the car again today and saw those 2 pressure switches you're talking about. I've already ordered a new resivoir cap ass'y. I tried to unplug it the other day and one of the blades came out. So I just stuffed it back in there. The fluid level is good and the brakes are always spot on. A good foim pedal. I don't know about the brake lining sensors as I didn't mess with the brakes. The PO installed them and I just haven't had to go there. yet. Here's some photos. The red light on the right side under the tach is the one that stays lit all the time. The CHECK light and the red light with the SAME symbol on the lower left panel goes off once I touch the brakes, so I'm hoping it's nothing too serious. Im going to try lifting the wires on the regulator switches tomorrow and see if that clears it. Here's some shots

the check light and brake light on the panel come always after u start it then go off once u press the pedal. its a safety thing i guess

boy that's some old technology..

those huge resistors on the circuit boards remind me of late 60's technology.

probably more resiliant than early surface mount technology from the 90's though.



Sure seems your check lights are "brake light" issues... on my e36 I will get that error on my obc and the problem is the brake switch itself... dunno if that would be the same for an e24 though.

the check light and brake light on the panel come always after u start it then go off once u press the pedal. its a safety thing i guess


...and this whole time I thought it was just me with that problem...

It's not a problem, that is the normal operation. The "Check" light is on because the brake lights aren't tested until the first time they are used. Check out the description under Active Check Control in the ETM.

Pull the wire on each of the regulator pressure switches one at a time and see which one makes the light to go out. Those switches are known to go bad, They tend to leak through the plastic insert holding the terminal. They are about $25.

If the horizontal switch on the side of the regulator is bad, check the accumulator as follows:

Remove the top of the reservoir. Pump the brakes 20 to 30 times with the engine off, the level should rise from below the screen to within 3/8" (10mm) of the top edge of the reservoir and then disappear to below the screen again when you start the engine up as the accumulator recharges. If this doesn't happen, the accumulator is bad; if it does, then either the switch or the regulator is bad.

"Bremsclicht" is a brake light. If you check, one of them os probably not working. It is unrelated to the other warning light in the cluster.

Thanks, I'll let you know what I find. hopefully not too expensive!

OK, so I went out this morning to check the accumilator and regulator and the 3 switches and this is what I found. After just about 15 pumps on the brake pedal the fluid in the resivoir came up and after starting the motor dropped back down again, from what I've read this is normal operation. I then applied the brakes and held them applied for a while and the pedal stayed firm and did not drop. So I moved onto the switches. I already had the hydraulic resivoir cap under suspicion and had ordered one on friday from bmw. So step by step and sure enough there's slight leaking from the oil pressure switch (horizontal) and when I lifted the connector(s) the light went off. So, I'm pretty confident I've dodged an expensive bullet here by not having to get involved with the regulator. I want to thank everybody for their suggestions and tips! Joe

You gotta love-it when things come together ... and it's the cheap part that is bad! The failed switch is a pretty common problem.

FYI, there is a filter in the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir that doesn't show up in any of the manuals and isn't in BMW's list of items for a phase I or II inspection. Something to put on your "To-Do" list when you do an inspection or general maintenance.

yeah, so far so good. After I lifted the wires on the sw and the light went out I reset the inspection light and that too stayed off...for a while, about 5 miles. I'm hoping that by having the wires lifted off the switch that the SI board is not getting a resistance reading from that sw. causing it to come back on. But that'll be for later, after the new cap and the new switch. So far every little step improves the overall picture and I'm happy. In addition, with the new SI Board in place and the speedo working properly the engine has continued to smooth out to almost perfect now and power and acceleration has greatly improved. I'm sure that with added miles this week the computer will continue to re-learn and performance will get even better. It is a strong runner, idle is like glass now and even the exhaust has a different note to it.:D

joe,
if you have'nt figured out the wire with the green molded plug connector, i believe that it is for the cruise control. if your car has cruise, then it connects to the back of the cluster. if you don't have cruise, then just let it dangle. cruise will not work if this is not connected. btw, i spent my first 27 years in farmingdale!

Farmingdale! right next door, and now all the way to Ca?? I looked all over the back of that cluster and there were no empty spots! Maybe I missed something? I'm not a big fan of cruise control even on the longest of trips and have not even tried to engage it. It didn't even enter my thoughts. I've been totally into straightening out the basics that were ignored by PO's.....just today my Pops was asking how I'm making out with the six, so I gave him the progress report and he asks me "How's the A/C? Won't be long ya know". I hate the thought of even going there. Who knows whens the last time it ran! All I can picture is a lot of sqealing and smoke!

ten years already! what town do you live in? i found the trick with the green wire in my e30. i had the cluster out for service and did not reconnect it accidentally upon re install and the cruise was inoperable. i realized my mistake(a couple of months later) reconnected it and what do you know? i just replaced the si batteries(6.00, charged, and with solder tabs from batteries plus) on the m635 and found the same wire in the cluster harness but not connected to anything. the m635 does not have cruise. this is my armchair theory on the wire. good luck!
bob

Bob, Levittown, I have a cruise stalk on the steering column, tried wiggling it around last night, no good. I haven't had cruise in my thinking, don't know if there's hardware under the hood or what. Now that I think of it I think there's a second throttle cable. Maybe I'll track that, should probably lead to a servo of some sort. I wonder where the "Brain" might be....as for that cluster...I wish you hadn't said anything...now that I know this my curiosity will kill me till I pull that cluster again and I don't want to do that!! hahaha....dammit..

The locations of most things in the car are given in the ETM, you have downloaded it haven't you? :) :cool

Go to "Components locations", page 201 at the end. Here is the online page for the cruise:

http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/bmwetm211.jpg

the cruise on mine isnt working and its definately on my mind to fix it


yea, you should have a second throttle, the servo will be at front of wheel well on drivers side, module is located above the hood release

this was something I was planning on checking into today..

I was just outside doing something else and spotted the servo down by the pump resivoir. I'm just gonna save this for spring. I'm waiting for my hydraulic cap and oil pressure sw for the regulator. Thats got major priority at this time, thanks! and I did download the etm, it's quite helpful.

Great job. Two questions for you. Do you have the link to European electric where you got your SI board and how much did it run you. I will need to replace an 85.

MaitreG, I was cruising e-bay and found him there. His name is:
David Rainey
European Electric
2004 Adams St.
Tullahoma, TN 37388
I don't have a phone # for him but he was very helpful thru e-mail. Seems to have it going on. It was $99 plus a $38 core charge. It arrived in 2 days and he provides a postage paid US Postal delivery box for the core return. I'm not a electronics man but it was carefully packed in static free sheeting, and I examined it under a magnifying glass and it seems like the components and workmanship is top notch. It has been working great since installing it the other day, Joe

Thanks for the info JoeCautela. I did a search and could not find him nor the business. There was one such business in TN but at a different address and City. Would you still have the e-mail? It is a barely under three hundred dollar item at the dealer.

Maitre G, I just checked my mailbox but I think because I was e-mailing him thru e-bay it's not registering in my address book. I just went on ebay and he's got a number of items under the search heading bmw 635. Type in for SI Board and also for instrument gauge cluster he pops up, or I guess you could type in euro-electric. It pops up there too. If I knew a little more about computers maybe I'd be of more help. Let me know how you make out.

I found Euromotive and the price is $249 for a remanufactured batteryless version. Consider yourself lucky. For that price, I will consider a new one from the dealer. Thanks for the info. I'll will keep on checking and maybe I'll get lucky too.

I just went over there and checked it out. Neither of those two are the guy I referred you to. You are looking for euro-electric from Tullahoma, Tn. I've never seen these others before...oh and there is a baterry-less board up for bid right now from Florida. It must've just started cause the bid is only $10...My car is an '85 and uses the battery board, good luck, Joe

MaitreG, check your pm

Thanks Joe. I saw it and you are right. It is 99 with a 30 dollar core and a three year warranty. One thing for sure is that they are constantly remanufacturing them as they receive orders, so I will be able to take my time. It is my son's BM and must make the time to intall it, so no rush, but thanks for the information.Great find!

Hey Joe, I pulled an instrument cluster from an 85 E24. I am about to open it to see if the board is ok. Everything was working before I pulled the engine and tranmission out of the car. Came here to see your pictures before I proceed.

If I can help give a shout!, Joe

I understand that the battery voltage is not an everyday off the shelf voltage. Have you ever bought or heard of someone who has changed the battery before it spoils the circuit board? Here are the pictures. They are not too clear, but on the right there is sign of the start of corrosion.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm251/LeTutankhamen/DSC01181.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm251/LeTutankhamen/DSC01172.jpg

If I remember correctly Jeff replaced the batteries on his board in his "Wolfie" thread and others were discussing there as well. I ended up getting a whole new board rather than experimenting with mine. In Jeffs thread he relocated the batteries away from the board for future replacement. I just figured that mine had been there 23 yrs and if this new one lasts 1/2 that long I'll be happy (If I even still have the car!). I guess it depends on your soldiering skills and patience level....

Joe is right on the money there. You can even get a battery-less unit off ebay for a reasonable price, and you just hook the thing up and forget about it. If i had the spare cash, thats what i wouldve done, but since i was cheap, had a soldering gun, and a replacement board for free, figured i would give it a shot.

i think my total cost was:

$5 for batteries,
$2 for battery holder
$2 for wiring

-Jeff

I understand that the battery voltage is not an everyday off the shelf voltage. Have you ever bought or heard of someone who has changed the battery before it spoils the circuit board? Here are the pictures. They are not too clear, but on the right there is sign of the start of corrosion.

There is a later style that used two, 3v 1/2AA (Half the length of a AA) lithium batteries, but the one's you've got look like the standard 1.5v AA NiCad's, the voltage should be marked on the lable. While you've got it open, I would certainly replace them just for peace of mind, especially if you suspect they may be starting to leak.

You can get the batteries with the mounting tabs on them from a Batteries Plus Store and they will even solder them on for you if you want (Easy). Or you can remove them and solder in some wires to a remote battery holder like Jeff did and use standard AA rechargeables (Cheap), or just get the batteryless board and forget about them (Easiest, but expensive).

I was lucky to have come across a programma battery-less SI bd. I made a remote battery SI bd similar to what Jeff did. I dremeled the battery tabs to where some of the tab was sticking up. Soldered the leads from the battery holder to the tabs. Used two single holders with rechargable batteries. The guy I gave to was happy with it.

Thanks for the great ideas guys. I can handle a soldering iron, but I am thinking it would be preferable to bring it to an electronic technician who can better deal with it under a loop that I don’t have, who can also provide the battery and holder. Are they connected in series or parallel? I could not get an accurate voltage, so I cannot tell yet. I am still using an analog multimeter when I have a note to get a digital as soon as possible as you could see on one of the stickies in one of the pictures. I try not to be cheap with my cars, but I have too many projects I need to complete. Need to finish installing my 85 engine in my 82 E24 , need a picture of the engine compartment to see where everything seats. It has been two years since I took her apart. Need to install the transmission. I am taking apart a 85 E24 where I got this cluster from so that I can junk the rest of the carcass. I surely can buy some cooling system gaskets with this board money. So as cheap as possible fits right in the budget. A cylindrical battery would look so appealing and self-gratifying.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm251/LeTutankhamen/DSC01191.jpg