To begin i am swapping a s50 in.... i got the motor in hooked up and ready to go... i turned the key to turn it on and the starter turns the engine fine but it wont fire at all. i used the s50 harness with the stock dme with a 506 dme chip. My dme is a 413 red label and i noticed someone used the 506 chip in their 413 red label dme with no problems. Now i do have a small dripping gas leak that i need to fix (not a big deal). But still this does not make sense that i do not have any spark.... can anyone help.

Thanks Justin

None of the coil packs are igniting? You're getting fuel however, correct?

yeah i am sure i am getting fuel pressure but as for fuel to the engine or spark to the engine i dont know. would you by any chance know if the dme chip should work or not?... i can check if i have a spark or not however i am at college 3 hrs away so the only way i can find out is by getting a brother of mine to test it.... but if you knew of anything else i would like to know...

Thanks Justin

Sure hope you pushed it out of the garage before turning it on ...

A little fuel dripping is a BIG problem when it ignites.

its dripping gas at the end of where the line from the gas tank that connects to the rubber hose going to the fuel filter... not i big leak and not a leak where it could be extremely dangerous... yes it leaks but only cause of it not being clamped properly... the only reason i mentioned this is because i have heard that sometimes a gas leak can cause the car to not start could this be true?

Thanks Justin

Use a stethoscope while it is being turned over to hear if the injectors are clicking. If they are not, it could be the crank sensor among other things.

What year car did the new motor come out of? I guess you already know that you will need the air flow meter to exactly match the engine as well as the computer and wiring harness. All the grounds good?

If youre still using the stock S50 DME with the system, its not going to start without disabling EWS.

dlduke- it came out of a 1995 m3 and i am using s50 wiring harness with the 325 dme which is the 413 red label with a m3 506 dme chip... do i need the air flow meter for this swap cause i thought the stock one is the same as the m3? As for grounds i know the ones by the engine mount, the diagnostic port and the one by the fuse box are all good are there any i am missing?

bluebimma- the reason i used the 506 chip is because it did not have ews cause it knew that would be a problem. i saw that someone had used it for this kind of swap.


Thanks Justin

How does one go about immobilizing the EWS?. Not that I plan on doing that swap. My '93 into the '92 frame was bad enough. I'm guessing that the swap to the S50 is much more involved. What other concerns would one encounter in that swap? (Bluebimma, would no 1st gear on an automatic be helped by adjusting the shift cable?)

dlduke-ews is deleted by a ews deleted chip but the 95 m3 506 dme did not have ews so i used this chip cause i dont have ews on my car.

correct me if i am wrong anyone

If there are any electronic differences(relating to the motor) between your '93 and '95 then you will have to use the '95 components. Bentley has the grounds locations but offhand I couldn't tell you. Sounds like you are on top of things pretty well as it is but I'm sure it is frustrating to be that close and it still wont fire. I hate to recommend using starting fluid, but that will tell you something.

ok since i am far away from my car i got my brother to fix the gas leak and test the spark.... well there is no spark... i dont know if fuel is being injected or not but he plugged in the diagnostic tool and got an E10 and there is no E10 in the code book... now there is a 10 he said and it reads for the crankshaft position sensor... now the motor had 67000 original miles and there is no reason why it should have went out already but what could this code mean... i also researched the dme chip and that chip should work...

so now i am down to no spark with a e10 code that i dont know what it is

Thanks Justin

You're in a not-to-bad situation, since according to Bentley, the '93 engine management is the same as the '95. That is a very good starting point. I don't know if the M3 motor requires any different electronics than the standard 325. There are some slight differences in the ground distribution between the '93 and the '95. See ELE35-ELE44 in Bentley. (I'm sure there are some guys out there who know a lot more about it than I do though.) Do you hear the fuel pump running when you try to start it? And does it respond to starting fluid? All relays and fuses good? Alternator good? If none of that helps, I would find the stock '95 M3 electronics and install any that are different from what you are already using.

I did hear the fuel pump turn on but its not getting spark how would it respond to starter fluid idk on the relays and fuses but the car ran fine before just blew a headgasket from a coolant leak and overheated... the alternator is brand new..... and the only thing different with this motor is the tuning... now i don't have the Bentley manual at hand its about 200 miles away cause i am at college right now... but does it say where the different grounds are cause this engine may need more grounds to start it maybe...

Thanks Justin

Just for kicks, get your brother to spray some into the air flow meter. See if it fires. Sometimes it is hard to tell visually if there is a spark. If there is no spark, check everything related to ignition. Hopefully your car doesn't have the anti-theft feature. Have your brother re-check all grounds and other electrical connections that were unplugged or bolted.

Are you sure you guys plugged the crank and cam position sensors in there corresponding receptors? Also, if theres no spark, spraying starter fluid in there will not do anything especially if youre already getting fuel. If youre getting no fuel, and no spark, id suggest cutting the EWS line whether you think its equipped or not.

is your chip in backwards? also if that doesn't work put the 325 (413) chip back in and see if that works. and if that doesn't even work cut the ews wire to the ecu, it's like pin #64 and it's green. that's what i ended up doing when i put the s50 in my ti.

the chip could possibly be backwards... i had a dinan chip in it before but also still have the stock one too... which one do you think i should try... i will try cutting the connector when i get back home this coming friday... but how would i know if the chip is backwards or not?

Thanks Justin

Ok i got my brother to turn the chip around and it made no difference... he looked for the wire to cut and he said there was no wire where it was suppose to be... i did not try the stock chip yet... he still got an error for the diagnostic tool also... any other suggestions?

Thanks Justin

Replace your crankshaft position sensor.

E10 = ERROR 10

Well my brother plugged it in with the chip turned around and he got E11 now... which would be the cam sensor... like i said the motor ran fine with 65000 miles when it came out... does not make sense when i put the motor in that the sensor went bad... seems to me the chip may be bad... cause thats the only thing different with the swap and everything else is the same. I am going to put the stock chip in and see what happens if nothing happens then i will see if i can change my sensor out...

BTW another thing wrong is that the signals, hazards, and reverse lights all do not work... could this be related?


Thanks Justin

Ok my brother installed the stock chip and nothing different happend... he looked for the green ews wire but could not find it apprently there was no wire in it place.... he only found 2 green wires one had numbers on it and the other was just green...what is the wires specific name???

Thanks Justin

I don't think this has anything to do with the DME.

If the car is telling you it's having crank and camshaft position sensor errors then you need to check these. Either they are dead or you have completely switched the two somehow.

Be aware, if any type of magnet was used around these sensors or if the crank pulley or camshaft was somehow magnetized it would throw the sensors off.

Cliffs: Stop messing with the DME for now and focus on the errors you are getting. The car is telling you what's up.

Oh, and look around for the E36 ETM (electronic troubleshooting manual) it's around on the net and will help you greatly.

Quick question, can you roll up the windows and unlock the doors? If not, you dont have the grounds and hot leads hooked up correctly. I had the same exact problem when i did my swap. After i put the wires where they were supposed to be, all the lighting worked properly and the engine started. Also, if youve unhooked the cluster at all, make sure its plugged in because that can prevent the engine from starting as well.

Well the wiring harness was on the engine when i got it... it was never detached so i never even had to mess with the wires and it was never near any magnets unless it was beside some magnets when it was shipped...

The door locks did work but i dont know about the windows but it think they did go up and down when i opened the door and i also never tampered with the gauge cluster.

i got an old crankshaft sensor and i will plug it up and see if it reads different from the code reader...

I am going home thursday and working on it friday saturday and maybe sunday...and i will see what happens...

Thanks Justin

Im talking about the connections to the positive connection on the chassis, and the grounds from the harness to the chassis itself. I came from 4cyl land and had never worked on a 6, so there were a few wires that didnt indicate whether they were grounds or hot leads, so they were backwards and caused the engine not to work, but it could turn over the starter becuase it was grounded and had a hot lead for it to work. Once i got the connectors properly routed, everything worked including the engine with no faults

Yeah i know what your talking about but Verruckt said:

"If the car is telling you it's having crank and camshaft position sensor errors then you need to check these. Either they are dead or you have completely switched the two somehow."

sorry to confuse you... i should have written your name by the reply i gave you each.


Thanks Justin

I tried a good crankshaft sensor form my old motor and it still threw a e10 fault code.... i also checked all of the relays and they are good.... i pulled a spark plug out and it was soaked in gas so i am getting gas just no spark... i also looked for the ews wire and i could never figure out how to could the wires on the dme could some explain how? Other than that i am out of ideas... i checked all the grounds all the plugs and all the positive wires...

Thanks Justin

BTW- i solved the problem with the corner, hazard, and reverse lights

Have you done the stomp the accelerator 5 times test to get the check engine light to blink a code at you? Bentley has the codes and procedure listed up front.

I'm going through a similar problem. Engine cranks fine. All electrical systems seem to function fine (windows, turn signals, etc.). Electrical fan comes on fine (I have a Zionsville radiator w/fan). Cylinders getting plenty of fuel. It even seems to try to start every so often (stumbles), but never catches. Mine is a 2.8 into an OBD1 M3. I do have the OBD1 crank and cam sensor, etc...

I get error code 1281 w/the stomp test. It has me truly stumped. Memory full, no power to DME (appears to be connection 54, but I'm not sure). I don't know where the power junction is for that wire, so it's a bit of a crapshoot for me (not to threadjack, but I'd appreciate any assistance here).

Thanks,

Kirk

I did alot of searching and testing... but came up empty... i did notice that ecu was getting really hot and popped the top off and noticed the chip was backwards so i flipped it around in the correct order... could the chip have burnt up it did not smell like anything happened only the chip was hot...


Thanks Justin

PS: i dont know what you talking about admranger

I did alot of searching and testing... but came up empty... i did notice that ecu was getting really hot and popped the top off and noticed the chip was backwards so i flipped it around in the correct order... could the chip have burnt up it did not smell like anything happened only the chip was hot...


Thanks Justin

PS: i dont know what you talking about admranger

I'm having a similar problem. The 1281 code just means that the DME lost power (doh!).

Flipping the chip backwards is not a good thing. Don't know if it killed it. Try your old chip, it should run on it, just not well.

i am using a different code reader than you min only have 2 digits... but i know that i had the same problem with my old engine when i had it running and i could never get it to crank even tried a new battery and never helped then i cleaned the terminals really good on each connections and it fired right up seems like your getting power and everything but you need full power to crank you car also check the voltage of the battery to make sure its has enough juice you can find the specs in the manuel i can remember them off hand...

Justin

i am using a different code reader than you min only have 2 digits... but i know that i had the same problem with my old engine when i had it running and i could never get it to crank even tried a new battery and never helped then i cleaned the terminals really good on each connections and it fired right up seems like your getting power and everything but you need full power to crank you car also check the voltage of the battery to make sure its has enough juice you can find the specs in the manuel i can remember them off hand...

Justin

I am using the built in 'code reader' feature that is described in the Bentley manual. Turn the key to the on position (right before hitting the starter). Press the accelerator to the floor 5 times in 5 seconds. The code light will flash a four digit code (listed in Bentley) for each fault code that is stored in the computer. Don't know if it will work on yours. It works on some, not others. If you are using a Peake code reader, you are probably getting all the codes you need. I'll have access to one tomorrow.

As for cleaning the terminals, are you referring to the battery terminals or the DME terminals (or chip or ?)?

Thanks,

Kirk

Yeah i know it sounds like common sense but yeah the battery terminals. I am using a code reader simliar to the peake but its from bavauto.com

I still need Help guys still getting a e10 from the dme and no spark!

Thanks Justin

Ok here is a list of everything i did so everyone will know the full details.

First i have a 93 325is and the motor blew a headgasket (from a busted heater hose ran hot and blew a headgasket and cracked the head)
I bought a 95 m3 motor with ~67000 miles
I took the transmission off the m50 with the flywheel and used a performance clutch ( i Know it will not last long with the M3 but i have plans of replacing the transmission clutch flywheel etc later)
I used the alternator from my car which was brand new not even used for over 50 miles
I used the powersteering and a/c from my car.
The s50 had the wiring harness attached so i used it and the starter.
The throttle position switch was broke when i received it and used the one off my old motor.
I pulled the EWS green wire out of pin 66.
I am using a 413 red label with a performance 506 m3 chip. The chip was in the right way the first time and it did not start then but some how my brother accidentally had it backwards and it got very hot i turned it back the way it was suppose to be and it did not get hot anymore... my friend has a chip reader and he is going to see if it is still good.
The battery is 4 years old but i have been using a charger to keep the volts up from cranking it so much killed it
The engine turns fine and fast.
Got fuel
No Spark... hooked a coil to the plug outside of the engine to test a spark got nothing
all of the grounds are fine. even tried to ground the engine my a jumper cable to the body of the car
I am using the bavauto.com code reader and receiving an E10
I plugged in a known good crank sensor and still got the same fault code.


Other than that i can think of anything else.

Thanks Justin

I would def. replace the crank/cam sensors (I know you said you have a good crank sensor, but it's just easier this way)

Def get your friend to read the chip to see if it's bad, if it's not call TMS and see what chip you would need for that swap

And above all else, get a Bentley manual and double/triple check you grounds (I'd say do this first)

A little fuel dripping is a BIG problem when it ignites.

Seriously man. A house near me just blew up because of it. You got your hot water heater in your garage? Laundry room? Basement? That pilot light kicks on your fucked. Just a warning. Also, Ive done similar job, I didn't fvck with the dme though. I used standard non red 413 dme, no chip. didn't start either, but it was my battery. If it's been sitting you may need to trickle charge it at 2 amps for like 2 days.

Seriously man. A house near me just blew up because of it. You got your hot water heater in your garage? Laundry room? Basement? That pilot light kicks on your fucked.
That problem was fixed 2 weeks ago there is no problem there. Plus this is an outside garage with plenty of ventilation i am not a idiot i understand how flammable gas but i do appreciate the concern thanks.

I think i am just going to buy a new battery

I would def. replace the crank/cam sensors (I know you said you have a good crank sensor, but it's just easier this way)

The crank and cam sensor should be fine on a car with 60000 miles but i understand what you saying i guess i am cheap and i am trying to avoid forking over 200 dollars without fixing the problem. I rather buy something that i know is bad.
get a Bentley manual and double/triple check you grounds (I'd say do this first)
I have done this numerous times grounds are good cleaned and tight.

Thanks Justin

I have done this numerous times grounds are good cleaned and tight.

Thanks Justin


Then def. call up Turner and see if it's chip related

First i am going to see if my friend can read the chip if he can then i will see if i can call them up to ask them...

Still open to more suggestions!!!

Thanks Justin

ok.... well since you have already checked all grounds, tried numerous chips, and disabled ur ews.... did you try using your stock 325 ecu? ... Since the 3.0 motor is obd1 just like your blown 2.5L motor, try and use the old ecu with stock chip. There is no reason to cut wires on the ecu disabling the ews... ews came after dec 94 in bmw's and if the old ecu of a 325 can work on an m, (most people claimed it works).... then try that and make sure to check if the wiring harness that came with the motor was not spliced or cut... most people do poor jobs disassembling wire harnesses from engines. Make sure all wires and grounds are there. I know it's a pain in the ass but compare and contrast the wire harness that came with the M motor to your old motor's harness... This may resolve the issue if not you'll for a fact know that everything is there. ( I am installing a M motor in my 95 325i also)

The stock ecu is the only ecu i have used i never bought a m3 ecu... and the wiring harness was complete uncut unmolested it was perectly fine... i also checked to see if i was getting power through the wires to the coils and i do but it seems something is cutting it off i ask the company i bought the chip from and told him what was happening he just replied to me as "give me your address and i will send a replacement" so the chip may have been bad or could have been for the 413 silver label instead of the 506 so this week i should recieve the chip and my brother is going to try my ecu in his car to see if the ecu is not bad... i will update on my progress

Thanks Justin

It finally cranked i used the stock chip and i am waiting for a replacment m3 chip... apparently when i had the other chips in they were in backwards and they blew so when i used the stock one i made sure it was in correctly and i fired right up.... i will keep everyone posted if it will crank up with the new 506 m3 chip....

Thanks Justin

It did not crank with the new 506 dme chip i have no idea why... i am wondering if the guy i bought it from knows there is a difference in the 506 and 413 with the ews... cause it does not make sense i use the stock 325 chip and it fires then i use the 506 chip and it cranks but does not fire... i took out pin 66 for ews ... but is there anymore pins or is that the only one?

Thanks Justin

you sure you didn't pull pin 67 or 68?... which are the crank sensor inputs.

When I swapped a 95 3.0litre M3 engine and ECU into my 92 318is I couldn't get it started. Turned the key, got ignition lights but absolutely nothing on the final turn. That was until I discovered EWS. After a complete removal of 92 wiring loom and instalation of 95 loom. The chipped key was passing the signal through the ring, transmittor, EWS module and onto the ECU. If your car is turning over then I would disregard the EWS opinion for time being and as previously suggested concentrate on the error codes. I had a problem with one of the sensors mentioned, my car had been running fine until one day I was out driving and the engine kept responding like it was hitting the rev limiter, but the revs were no where near the limiter. I continued to make my way home until it cut out completely. After investigating for hours I discovered that during my rush to get everything together I hadn't clipped the sensor back into place correctly. One simple push, click rectified the problem. I felt like such a muppet but was so relieved that there was no major problem.

Check cam and crank sensors, if need be replace them both. At least if it doesn't work you can remove it from your list of things to check.

I am of the opinion that just because a car has done few miles doesn't mean that componants won't be faulty. If it's electrical and it could be a possibilty then check it to eliminate it at the least.

I really hope you get this rectified, I've had many head scratching moments and I know how frustrating it is. I hope my experiences and opinion help you.

When I swapped a 95 3.0litre M3 engine and ECU into my 92 318is I couldn't get it started. Turned the key, got ignition lights but absolutely nothing on the final turn. That was until I discovered EWS. After a complete removal of 92 wiring loom and instalation of 95 loom. The chipped key was passing the signal through the ring, transmittor, EWS module and onto the ECU. If your car is turning over then I would disregard the EWS opinion for time being and as previously suggested concentrate on the error codes. I had a problem with one of the sensors mentioned, my car had been running fine until one day I was out driving and the engine kept responding like it was hitting the rev limiter, but the revs were no where near the limiter. I continued to make my way home until it cut out completely. After investigating for hours I discovered that during my rush to get everything together I hadn't clipped the sensor back into place correctly. One simple push, click rectified the problem. I felt like such a muppet but was so relieved that there was no major problem.

Check cam and crank sensors, if need be replace them both. At least if it doesn't work you can remove it from your list of things to check.

I am of the opinion that just because a car has done few miles doesn't mean that componants won't be faulty. If it's electrical and it could be a possibilty then check it to eliminate it at the least.

I really hope you get this rectified, I've had many head scratching moments and I know how frustrating it is. I hope my experiences and opinion help you.

hi i am also having a similar problem with my bmw 325i. I recently have swapped a complete 3.0 l m3 engine with 50 k miles. The wiring harness was cut really badly so i decided to use my original harness from my old 2.5 l motor. Now I know for a fact that my key has no chip in it, and therefor i can't really tell if it has ews.

My engine cranks and starts for 2 sec when using starter fluid. I have spark, fuel pump works, all fuses show power when using voltmeter test. Everything is great except for the fuel injectors.

fuel pump sends fuel up to the fuel rail, the coiul packs recieve power since the car starts for 2 sec. What did i do wrong? Now it's crazy because I might have switched the connections from cam shaft sensor to crank shatf sensor but i have no idea which lead to what. I also have knock sensors, temp sensors, and few others underneith the intake. Does anyone have pictures or ideas why it wont start?

I did the 5 pedal test and nothing happens..... worked i nthe past but doesnt work with new motor in the car. HMMM....

I tried both ecus, m3 506 and stock 2.5 413 and nothing,......

chips are put in the right way..... all windows, lights, horn, etc all work...
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thnx
Raf