http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/DSC_2507.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/DSC_2509.jpg

Of course, I still haven't received the DME (to do a PnP setup) from some jerkoff on this forum. I paid him on the 6th... Its now the 24th, and I had to remind him 3 times to ship, and he lost my address once. THANKS 'JohnnyScene' !!!

So the SM4 and I are just staring at each other. :shifty

Nice chris - i have a request from you, I will PM or IM

Nice chris - i have a request from you, I will PM or IM

No I won't scan every page of this manual and make a PDF for you. :stickoutt

Sure, PM or IM away.

dude how the HELL did you know?

I hate you right now Chris! My new v3 MS got here today, and looks like every other MS, and not nearly as pretty as your SM4, and doesn't have the resolution or a lot of other features, but I ironically managed to make it have a higher cost, lol! (Not higher than retail, but I can get an SM4+Harness for a lot less than you did... Shop pricing FTW)

When is that bad boy going in?

Weren't you in the middle of having the stock ECU tuned? What happened to that?

probably jerked around and knew it was a prelude to come...so hes gonna tune himself...story of my life

Now we have someone stateside that will show what this is about...

I know that there are others I just dont remember seeing their entire builds posted...

:buttrock

This is HUGE!

Use the autotune to prove that what Andreas has told me is correct.

How will you wire it in? Just unplug stock connectors for things like injectors, coils, etc. and wire Autronic in to those things in which you want to control? Old tuner did that with Haltech for me and it was easy for him plus worked well.

Very interested! :eatpop:

Weren't you in the middle of having the stock ECU tuned? What happened to that?
+1, I thought you had the OEM DME flashed? In any event, very nice unit, i'm interested in the autotune aspect of the SM4 as well! Keep us posted!

a detailed write up would be awesome!!!

I hate you right now Chris! My new v3 MS got here today, and looks like every other MS, and not nearly as pretty as your SM4, and doesn't have the resolution or a lot of other features, but I ironically managed to make it have a higher cost, lol! (Not higher than retail, but I can get an SM4+Harness for a lot less than you did... Shop pricing FTW)

When is that bad boy going in?

Hey you win some, you lose some. If this stuff was easy, everyone would be doing it! Good luck. Hopefully this weekend I'll start on it-- but I need that DME!

Weren't you in the middle of having the stock ECU tuned? What happened to that?

Yep. From an earlier post I made--

To be honest, I was having a strange running rich @ idle problem that I could not figure out. All the tuners I have talked to have never seen this and don't know what to make of it. Whether it comes down to the specific injectors I used or if I have a bad sensor, I have no idea. I abandoned ship on the 413 dme for now. I was about to order a boost controller, and decided that $300 could be better invested into a standalone. I was about to order the LinkPlus G3 box, but ended up ordering an Autronic SM4.

probably jerked around and knew it was a prelude to come...so hes gonna tune himself...story of my life

Nah I was tuning the DME myself thanks to all the help that was provided to me around here. I made great power and it felt awesome to be able to make changes to the stock computer. But-- I was having a strange problem that hasn't been seen very much, which slowed things down. From the beginning of my build I was debating ordering one; my issue was just the deciding factor.

Now we have someone stateside that will show what this is about...

I know that there are others I just dont remember seeing their entire builds posted...

:buttrock

I'm excited :devillook

This is HUGE!

Use the autotune to prove that what Andreas has told me is correct.

How will you wire it in? Just unplug stock connectors for things like injectors, coils, etc. and wire Autronic in to those things in which you want to control? Old tuner did that with Haltech for me and it was easy for him plus worked well.

Very interested! :eatpop:

Autotune is definitely going to be used (if I can make my LC-1 work with the box). As for the wiring, I was going to leave about 2' of SM4 harness, and soldier onto the pins of a gutted DME, making it plug n' play... But the guy I paid on here for one still hasn't shipped it! I'd hate to destroy a perfectly good working DME (mine) just to install this one weekend early.

+1, I thought you had the OEM DME flashed? In any event, very nice unit, i'm interested in the autotune aspect of the SM4 as well! Keep us posted!

As described above. Thanks, I'll definitely keep you guys posted.

a detailed write up would be awesome!!!

Hmmm... It may not be the most detailed but I think I can come up with something :)

Autotune is definitely going to be used (if I can make my LC-1 work with the box). As for the wiring, I was going to leave about 2' of SM4 harness, and soldier onto the pins of a gutted DME, making it plug n' play... But the guy I paid on here for one still hasn't shipped it! I'd hate to destroy a perfectly good working DME (mine) just to install this one weekend early.
The reason I don't like that is unless the person knows to a Tee every wire on the stock DME regarding voltage, how the sensor works on the other end, how every wire in the Autronic box works, etc. I know that there is a certain thing that must be done to an AEM EMS box so it can be wired into the stock DME connector as PnP. If something isn't done that needs to be done or one sensor needs a certain amount of voltage through the stock DME pin yet that isn't the case for the wire going to that pin from the Autronic box, etc. then things can burn up.

I had a problem because my harness wasn't wired correctly and I believe the AEM EMS wasn't fixed properly. End result was a burnt engine harness, 2 burnt P&H boxes, 2 burnt CDI boxes, something that went wrong inside the AEM EMS box, a burnt M&W CDI box and a lot of hair lost as well as money.

So I think by wiring a custom harness only to what needs to be controlled and let the stock DME control the rest is the best idea. My old tuner at DanZio did this with a Haltech on my car and she ran great. If you don't want to touch your current engine harness you can purchase a used one and cut off what you need to wire into like the coil harness, injector harness, etc.

Cam, a PNP harness is seriously simple to do... You have two diagrams, and you wire it up. Exact same as wiring it to the sensors themselves, but you don't wire as much, you just follow a pin out...

Chris, I wish I had known you needed a DME, I have a spare gutted one from my last PNP. PNP FTMFW tho, I wish I had kept mine, but some people were convinced that was at least a big part in my issues, so I changed it to a spliced harness.. I'm thinking you can be tuning by Sunday, even if that means gutting a good DME ;)

Reguarding the plug and play, have people done this and made it work? Kendogg was just saying a local shop never quite managed to get MegaSquirt running correctly on a stock harness. There has to be some extras in the harness, whether it be resistors or some strange wiring, that is messing things up. Id hate to see a brand new SM4 get fried or not work right.

Id hate to see a brand new SM4 get fried

Me too! :eek:

I'm gonna take it slow... I might end up just clipping off the dme connector and not go PNP, who knows! It'll be a game time decision.

My ECU882c is wired into the back of a cutup stock DME, its easy. I did have issues with the crank angle sensor getting LOTS of interference this way and ended up wiring it direct to the standalone. The OBDII crank angle sensor was on a sub-harness anyway so going back to stock won't be hard. On all my previous standalone installs I had always completely replaced the stock harness with the new loom, however the BMW harness was pretty nice and I wanted the option of going back to stock easily.

The only way I see you burning something up is if you can't read a wiring diagram in the shop manual.

Oh, what the hell! That looks familiar! I think mine has found its long lost brother!!!

http://www.namike.com/gallery/main.php/d/4667-2/SM4-02.jpg
http://www.namike.com/gallery/main.php/d/4670-2/SM4-03.jpg
http://www.namike.com/gallery/main.php/d/4673-2/SM4-04.jpg

Autronics unite!

Let me know if you need help with the harness. I will be offering Autronic as another standalone option for the E36 platform soon.

M&W! I'm jealous!!

Thanks for the offer Mike :)

Autronics unite!

Let me know if you need help with the harness. I will be offering Autronic as another standalone option for the E36 platform soon.

Mike -

Great news!

Would you be able to run it as a piggyback -- or in tandem with the ecu -- so I could remain (or appear to be) OBDII compliant?

Neil

Mike R,

That M&W box makes me drool :) Why did you not go with the Autronic 500R CDI, or was the M&W something you already had?

Everyone else,

I am excited to see some people finally trying out the Autronic product line! Now I want to go out to the garage and install mine! I mean, I have to be the first! *strokes ego* :)

I wish someone would donate some FI parts to my mix :) Sigh, at least we'll be able to garner some knowledge from this.

Cam, a PNP harness is seriously simple to do... You have two diagrams, and you wire it up. Exact same as wiring it to the sensors themselves, but you don't wire as much, you just follow a pin out...

Chris, I wish I had known you needed a DME, I have a spare gutted one from my last PNP. PNP FTMFW tho, I wish I had kept mine, but some people were convinced that was at least a big part in my issues, so I changed it to a spliced harness.. I'm thinking you can be tuning by Sunday, even if that means gutting a good DME ;)
That was sort of a ccontradiction. You say it is so easy and then in the second paragraph you say you had issues with a PNP harness and changed to a spliced one? :confused
Reguarding the plug and play, have people done this and made it work? Kendogg was just saying a local shop never quite managed to get MegaSquirt running correctly on a stock harness. There has to be some extras in the harness, whether it be resistors or some strange wiring, that is messing things up. Id hate to see a brand new SM4 get fried or not work right.
Exactly!

On all my previous standalone installs I had always completely replaced the stock harness with the new loom, however the BMW harness was pretty nice and I wanted the option of going back to stock easily.
Yeah and you still can. The OP can get another stock used harness for like $150-$200. Hell I have an OBDII one for sale for $150. He can simply unplug the coil harness and injector hanrness plus whatever else and tuck it away. Then he can do his loom for those things he needs to control with the SM4 still having the stock DME and engine harness for the other stuff. Then when it's time to go back he simply pulls the SM4 with custom loom out of there and plugs the things he was controlling with the SM4 back in with the stock engine harness. DONE!

I also have the OBDII engine harness that my previous tuner wired into for the injectors, coils, etc. that I will just send to someone for $10 plus shipping if you want it.

i wonder whats up with the m50/2 harness. I make pnp adapters for motronic 1.3 cars all the time. The only trick was making the relays fire like stock without hacking the harness but that was easy.

The only thing i could think of is that the stock harness powers the harness whenever the key is on but a lot of the standalone docs i have read recommend powering them with a relay so they only turn on when the car is running/cranking.

Reguarding the plug and play, have people done this and made it work? Kendogg was just saying a local shop never quite managed to get MegaSquirt running correctly on a stock harness. There has to be some extras in the harness, whether it be resistors or some strange wiring, that is messing things up. Id hate to see a brand new SM4 get fried or not work right.I made it work just fine, until I dropped my damned Megasquirt and started having issues. I scraped the pnp after that.Me too! :eek:

I'm gonna take it slow... I might end up just clipping off the dme connector and not go PNP, who knows! It'll be a game time decision.If you cut the connector, cut it at the sensors and use your SM4 wiring harness.The only way I see you burning something up is if you can't read a wiring diagram in the shop manual.Yup.That was sort of a ccontradiction. You say it is so easy and then in the second paragraph you say you had issues with a PNP harness and changed to a spliced one? :confused

I also have the OBDII engine harness that my previous tuner wired into for the injectors, coils, etc. that I will just send to someone for $10 plus shipping if you want it.My PNP worked fine, but I had hella issues because I dropped my Megasquirt off my work bench. Jon (UrineMachine) thought that I should eliminate the possibility of the PNP being wired wrong, so I chopped the harness plug and extended it and wired it to the Megasquirt DB37 and my ignition DB15.

So your OBDII harness has the connectors on it and such still? I wonder if most of them are the same as the OBDI connectors, I'll have to check. I could use a spare harness to make a full loom with.i wonder whats up with the m50/2 harness. I make pnp adapters for motronic 1.3 cars all the time. The only trick was making the relays fire like stock without hacking the harness but that was easy.

The only thing i could think of is that the stock harness powers the harness whenever the key is on but a lot of the standalone docs i have read recommend powering them with a relay so they only turn on when the car is running/cranking.There shouldn't be any issues... Mine worked perfectly, you just follow the wiring diagrams...

I made it work just fine, until I dropped my damned Megasquirt and started having issues. I scraped the pnp after that.If you cut the connector, cut it at the sensors and use your SM4 wiring harness.Yup.My PNP worked fine, but I had hella issues because I dropped my Megasquirt off my work bench. Jon (UrineMachine) thought that I should eliminate the possibility of the PNP being wired wrong, so I chopped the harness plug and extended it and wired it to the Megasquirt DB37 and my ignition DB15.

So your OBDII harness has the connectors on it and such still? I wonder if most of them are the same as the OBDI connectors, I'll have to check. I could use a spare harness to make a full loom with.There shouldn't be any issues... Mine worked perfectly, you just follow the wiring diagrams...
Oh right I gotcha.

My old OBII M3 harness is different than OBDI. I have tried OBDII M3 harness with OBDI NV m50 motor (different), OBDI '92 m50 harness in OBDII chassis with OBDI NV m50 motor (no workee), OBDII m52 harness with OBDI NV m50 motor in OBDII '97 M3 chassis (working now but some different so had to splice a couple sensors). It's all a mindfuck and all different man.

I have been there when things go wrong with a PnP. Just ask Mike R. who posted! That M&W box in the pick is probably mine. Mine needs to be sent back because it was messed up. $850 man. Not to mention the two $333 AEM P&W boxes and the AEM CDI boxes that are $250 each. Unless someone actually does the R&D for you and deals with things going wrong tearing his poor hair out like Mike R. is going to do, then I say do it my way.

Hi Cam. It would be cool of you clarify that I didn't make you a PnP setup from scratch. You gave me a bunch of parts(of unknown condition) and said make it work! I've got a lot of hours into wiring and troubleshooting a bunch of parts that we didn't even sell you! The AEM box had traces and pins burnt up inside it from a direct short to the case. I sent your M&W box back for warranty with your 1050 box. I wouldn't bash a PnP setup, we have many cars running them with excellent results. No matter what, we will help you to get it up and running like you want.

This is a 6 channel Pro-16 I bought to try in my car. We had a few requests for Autronic so we decided to try the SM4 in the silver car before we install it in someone else's car. It is nice to have options.

T

Yeah and you still can. The OP can get another stock used harness for like $150-$200. Hell I have an OBDII one for sale for $150. He can simply inplug the coil hanress and injector hanrness plus whatever else and tuck it away. Then he can do his loom for those things he needs to control with the SM4 still having the stock DME and engine harness for the other stuff. Then when it's time to go back he simply pulls the SM4 with custom loom out of there and plugs the things he was controlling with the SM4 back in with the stock engine harness. DONE!

I have been there when things go wrong with a PnP. Just ask Mike R. who posted! That M&W box in the pick is probably mine. Mine needs to be sent back because it was messed up. $850 man. Not to mention the two $333 AEM P&W boxes and the AEM CDI boxes that are $250 each. Unless someone actually does the R&D for you and deals with things going wrong tearing his poor hair out like Mike R. is going to do, then I say do it my way.

I also have the OBDII engine harness that my previous tuner wired into for the injectors, coils, etc. that I will just send to someone for $10 plus shipping if you want it.


If you have a standalone, you don't need the stock DME to control anything. There is no magic or secret, I think I did have to use a relay or 2, but thats about it. The PnP standalone was the first major electrical work I had done to a BWM.

Ive always wondered why the M&W boxes are so much more money - now that AEM sorted their issues, what do they offer?

Ive always wondered why the M&W boxes are so much more money - now that AEM sorted their issues, what do they offer?

Autronic and M&W boxes cost more because they work reliably.

AEM has a "proven" track record, and My Spark Disappeared is not far behind.

I dunno the HKS is reliable, AEM/MSD recently had issues but I know a lot of guys running them.

MSD has always had issues. Alot of people run them because they are cheap.

I've got decisions to make :(

Let's make this clear: All my problems with my AEM EMS PnP setup were caused by someone else. Mike Radowski is an absolute saint! He was willing to help me out in such a huge way as a friend. I sent him the crappy parts and what was left and not working that I had and he is nice enough to help me work out whatever issues I had. Mike Radowski is the best! Please use his services if you can! :buttrock:redspot:alright

There currently is no PnP setup for the Autronic for our cars Mike. This is why I was trying to suggest a different strategy just for the OP. Once Mike R. has his Autronic PnP then he is the man to go to and that is what everyone should purchase! :buttrock:redspot:alright

Ive always wondered why the M&W boxes are so much more money - now that AEM sorted their issues, what do they offer?

AEM hasn't sorted their issues, the boxes are still on "engineering" backorder, that is their 2nd go around with a CDI box that is now on the same backorder status.

If you are truely seriours about gettting a CDI box don't look any further than M&W. It may be pricey but with that comes quality.

AEM hasn't sorted their issues, the boxes are still on "engineering" backorder, that is their 2nd go around with a CDI box that is now on the same backorder status.

If you are truely seriours about gettting a CDI box don't look any further than M&W. It may be pricey but with that comes quality.
care to explain more i have a aem and yet to install it so if there are some possible issues i may have....i might try something else.

care to explain more i have a aem and yet to install it so if there are some possible issues i may have....i might try something else.


The stop working, often, and without much warning.

The basic feeling *I* have if you need a CDI, Autronic or M&W. MSD will work, but be prepared for it to fail. For a street car with under 500rwhp, use an igniter from another car like a lexus. They are usually pretty reasonably priced and pretty reliable.

Or buy a standalone with builtin ignitors. :D

care to explain more i have a aem and yet to install it so if there are some possible issues i may have....i might try something else.

Some work and some don't that's all their is to it. Stories range from smoking right after install, working for a week or more and leaving people stranded on the road, and some that just flat out work and have no issues. It's hit or miss.

When you send it in for warranty it basically sits in a black hole as they are on "engineering backorder", they can't give you a new one as they don't ship any new ones out and they have pulled them from the shelves. What is left on the market is what vendors have purchased thru them or other suppliers.

When the first one had issues and it went on backorder, you waited until the new ones came out and they sent you a new edition unit for your old one. Not sure what is going to happen in the future as haven't inquired about them directly to AEM for months as I would rather deal with a known good unit like the M&W.

Mike -

Great news!

Would you be able to run it as a piggyback -- or in tandem with the ecu -- so I could remain (or appear to be) OBDII compliant?

Neil

Neil,
Anything is possible but the SM4 will be just like the AEM PnP that we offer. It will replace the DME and plug in to the OEM harness.

If you are looking for an OBD2 compliant solution you are still limited to TT, Active, etc. We have access to two AWD dynojets within a mile of our shop and are willing to work with Nick G or any tuner for custom tunes in house if they are willing to fly. I know Nick has done similar weekends at ICS in the past.

Good to see you guys wake up to Australian superiority!

Good to see you guys wake up to Australian superiority!

Lol... I ran a Haltech years ago and loved it for it's simplicity.

Eh did a little bit. The J30 ignitor and DME ended up coming late day today, so that was nice. Only got a few hours to work on it today so not much done.

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2510.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2515.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2516.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2520.jpg

Gonna end up doing it plug and play after all. I dunno if I'll get much done tomorrow either, but we'll see. I have to plan ahead for I/Os I want to add and whatnot.

Chris remember what I recommended regarding silicone or glue on the backside of that connector once its all sorted. Those pins as I am sure you know are horribly brittle/weak.

Yeah definitely. That was such a bitch to desoldier too.

Subscribed! Can't wait to see the graphs after initial dyno!

Heres my litte friend:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v416/proctor/Autronic003.jpg

for gods sake, cut those pins down. You only need 1/8-1/4 inch to solder on to. That way they are a little more solid.

What is this igniter you are speaking about?

What is this igniter you are speaking about?

I'm using a Nissan/Inifiniti J30 ignitor. Similar to the Skyline ignitor. Its a 6 channel ignitor and was $40 :D

Did some work on it today. Got about 40% wired, but had to quit early. Going to pickup my new daily driver in a bit :)

I'm using a Nissan/Inifiniti J30 ignitor. Similar to the Skyline ignitor. Its a 6 channel ignitor and was $40 :D

Did some work on it today. Got about 40% wired, but had to quit early. Going to pickup my new daily driver in a bit :)
Good luck! It seems to be coming along quickly! I can't wait to see how you like the Autronic with it's autotune! I hope it all works without a hitch and if that is the case, this would be a wonderful DIY idea. Thanks for the pics and info!

Jesus Chris you de-soldered all of the pins? I just used a dermal to cut them close to the board. They are very weak, I broke a few on my first DME, thus leading to making a second, which I then scraped lol.

Let us know how it goes! I hope you have made yourself a good pin out spreadsheet :)

Jesus Chris you de-soldered all of the pins? I just used a dermal to cut them close to the board. They are very weak, I broke a few on my first DME, thus leading to making a second, which I then scraped lol.

Let us know how it goes! I hope you have made yourself a good pin out spreadsheet :)

Yep, looking back-- cutoff wheel is the way to do it, haha. Live and learn :)

Yeah I have an ongoing spreadsheet as well.

Looks awesome man!! Good luck with it. I find myself looking at more and more now that i picked up another e36.... I love the pnp stuff. I might have to talk to you Chris ;)

Donovan

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2521.jpg

Just gotta trim down the pins I didn't use, wire up the ignitor, and mount it in the case. Then it can go in the car!

OMG that is sick DIY right thar! :eyecrazy :redspot :buttrock :alright

Nice Work! The harness is looking good. Are you going to be doing all of the tuning with the SM4?

Looking at that pic just makes me nervous haha

OMG that is sick DIY right thar! :eyecrazy :redspot :buttrock :alright

Thanks!

Nice Work! The harness is looking good. Are you going to be doing all of the tuning with the SM4?

Thank you. I hope to be. Fortunately I have a friend owns a Mustang dyno 3 minutes from my house :redspot

Looking at that pic just makes me nervous haha

Dude tell me about it. 12v to digital inputs what? Fried SM4 ?!! :eek:

Definitely gonna sit there and probe the SM4 connector before I connect it and make sure everything is good. BTW-- those pins are more durable than I thought.

They are decently durable but the problem is you have basically 1 or 2 bends before it breaks. They are nice side to side, but up and down... so easy to break. probe that shit good. I've seen a couple guys F up their MS boxes thinking they made a perfect PNP

Also watch out for the outter rows shorting on the Motronic casing

Dude tell me about it. 12v to digital inputs what? Fried SM4 ?!! :eek:
That's what I was :paranoid: about before. PROBE that sh%t.

Did some more--

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2523.jpg

Not so scary when its all taped up. Gonna add a heatsink to mount the ignitor on top of the lid. The extra wires bundled up are extra inputs and outputs that can/will be used for launch control, boost control, water injection, switchable timing maps, etc etc.

Did some more--

Not so scary when its all taped up. The extra wires bundled up are extra inputs and outputs that can/will be used for launch control, boost control, water injection, switchable timing maps, etc etc.
Oh that looks so damn good right there! :drool:

Can't wait for start-up! I only detered this because I care but I will be the first to give you a big :buttrock when she starts and runs like a champ! :redspot

Nice job with the wiring so far, it's looking good!

Eh did a little bit. The J30 ignitor and DME ended up coming late day today, so that was nice. Only got a few hours to work on it today so not much done.

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2516.jpg

how does using an external ignitor work? - in relation to controling ignition timing? with your sm4. or any standalone/piggyback?

is it like using a CDI box?

or using it as a 6 channel output trigger to fire the COP's

Thanks Cam and Dave! Hopefully she will run this weekend :)

The ignitor is used because the stock ecu has them internally. The factory COPs do not have an ignitor built in, and neither does my SM4. This is why the ignitor is needed. It drives the coils as the SM4 cannot directly.

if someone made an SM4 plug and play for the obd1 m3 i would seriously consider it. Jon you wanna take a crack at it?

Me? Or chris?

Confuzed.

If this works out I can *off the record* offer my help. After this weekend hopefully I'll be running, and you can shoot me a PM.

YOU NEED VENDORSHIP!!!!!111

Sorry couldn't resist

:lol

YOU NEED VENDORSHIP!!!!!111

Sorry couldn't resist

:lol

Haha, I had that coming. :stickoutt

Me? Or chris?

Confuzed.

either of you, who ever wants to make a PnP...

Chris can :) I got no timez

Chris can :) I got no timez

We both could have had 3 spare hours today if it wasn't for that S4 thread, hahaha.

That S4 thread ROCKED

Streeeeet raceeeeeeeeeeeers

Probably the hardest I've laughed in a while, haha.

either of you, who ever wants to make a PnP...

We will have OBD1 and OBD2 harnesses available soon.

We will have OBD1 and OBD2 harnesses available soon.

:buttrock let me know when available

OBD2 PNP is great for people who want to pass emissions. Just pop the computer and stock injectors in, and drive to get scanned :) Nice Mike!

OBD2 PNP is great for people who want to pass emissions. Just pop the computer and stock injectors in, and drive to get scanned :) Nice Mike!
Unnecessary,and you need to be really careful to not be under boost. Also, don't forget about the MAF. :)

Unnecessary,and you need to be really careful to not be under boost. Also, don't forget about the MAF. :)

In CT for emissions, they plug into the OBD2 port and scan... So the stock computer would need to be intact.

Update--

I plugged in the PNP harness and my fuel pump came on... wtf? I tried triggering the fuel pump relay and main power relay off the same wire. Turns out they were turning each other on. I added a diode and problem solved.

Moving on, probed around, got normal values everywhere. Plugged in SM4 and no smoke, sweet! Turned on key and connected to box. Loaded my file. I was getting a couple CEL's. One for CMOS reset and one for air temp sensor. A simple selection of the 'NTC' type sensor and the charge temp sensor was reading within 1 degree of the coolant temp! Sweet! CMOS error was just notifying me that the unit has lost power for a month or more.

So I've got working map sensor, coolant temp, air temp, tps, all coils have spark, all injectors fire, and I believe the idle valve is working too. I get a steady cranking rpm, NICE.....

But there are errors :shifty (Error 43, too many trigger pulses). I did attempt to hook up the injectors and crank it over but the crank signal is NOT right. It was backfiring onto the starter and making real bad noises. I'm going to go at it tomorrow with a timing light and whiteout. Hopefully I can lose that error.

I get spark without the cam sync enabled, but with it enabled it only sparks once or twice (until it sync's, and errors out). Unfortunately there has been a falling out between Ray Hall (main Autronic distributor and Autronic genious) and another one of the higerups. As you may have noticed the autronic website is gone. Looks like the US may not be getting any Autronics anymore! There are currently no authorized Vendors in the USA as of this posting. :(

Unfortunately for me, without Ray, the support forum moves MUCH slower. Wish me luck. Hopefully Andreas can help me out, as I've sent him a request via pm. PLEASE help Andreas! I just want to get tuning!! :buttrock

Yeah I was told about the falling out from the main US vendor about a year or two ago, It just went downhill from there. Luckily I have a guy here in Louisville who Is also an Autronic master so if you need anything I am sure he can help you out!

Also: No emissions in Kentucky FTW! I am going to a superbowl party with a guy whos dad invented the emissions testing Software!! lol

I have a guy here in Louisville who Is also an Autronic master so if you need anything I am sure he can help you out!

Awesome do you happen to have an email address I can contact him at? I'm going to try a few more things today but a basefile to get me started would be killer!

GOOD news. I got the crank error figured out...

The PNP wiring thread 'goathumper' made for megasquirt is incorrect. The crank VR pins he has backwards. Pin 16 is actually positive, not negative-- and visa versa with pin 43, it is actually negative, not positive. I should have probed myself but took the lazy way out and used someone else's write up. Thats what I get for being lazy!

So now I have spark with the cam sync enabled. I had it sorta running kinda, but I have to find the proper ignition offset for the SM4. That'd be cool if Andreas could just give me that ONE number from his .cal file ('Cylinder I/P Lead') ! I'll be playing with my super cool timing light in the mean time...

-Chris

...You didn't look at the ETM for your wiring?

...You didn't look at the ETM for your wiring?

Whats an ETM?

I used the bentley, but that doesn't show polarity on the crank sensor.

Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, the factory wiring documentation. Chris, I would have thought for sure you would verify everything yourself. Its a bad idea to base your wiring off of someone elses, or the Bentley, its not that accurate for repair procedures so I couldn't see how it would be for wiring... But then I could be wrong. I personally don't use the Bentley, I gave mine away because the ETM and TIS is really all your need for it.. Plus, I like having my documents on my laptop and easy to navigate, and I know where most everything is in the TIS vs the Bentley...

Really, do yourself a favor and get TIS and the ETM.

ITS ALIVE!!!! Muhahahah. I hate SM4 wiring harnesses officially. It had two pink/black wires apparently. They were mixed up, and my IGN2 output was firing the #1 injector while the #1 injector out was trying to spark coils 2 and 5. Ha, well its alive and I'm gonna go tune :)

ITS ALIVE!!!! Muhahahah. I hate SM4 wiring harnesses officially. It had two pink/black wires apparently. They were mixed up, and my IGN2 output was firing the #1 injector while the #1 injector out was trying to spark coils 2 and 5. Ha, well its alive and I'm gonna go tune :)
Congrats! :redspot

Can't wait for results! :buttrock

Congrats! :redspot

Can't wait for results! :buttrock

Thanks Cam!

This is very powerful stuff. I wasn't sure how the SM4 would like the stock 3 wire idle valve but.... Right out of the box it idled at 1200. I typed in 800 rpm for the target idle, and bam-- idled SOLID at 800rpm. :redspot

I didn't do much tuning, just got it idling happy and reving. And of course I had to see what the launch control sounded like :D Autotune didn't work because I haven't setup my LC1 properly yet. It started making changes but the AFR gauge in the software wasn't reflecting my actual XD16 gauge. I'll play more tomorrow. Tonight, its celebration time :)

I'll call him next week and get his email for you.

What will I lose or gain by not going PNP with my SMC?

I'll call him next week and get his email for you.

Thanks but no biggie at this point. I was just looking for help with the crank setup but I seem to have figured it out :)

What will I lose or gain by not going PNP with my SMC?

Here what I can think of if you go with a plug and play setup:

Pros:
*Easily swap in stock computer when needed. (Emission purposes if OBD2)
*No need to make and terminate a whole new engine harness

Cons:
*Tedious counting pins
*Can be more difficult in general and easier to make a mistake

I'm sure there other pros and cons but I'm shot from today.

Glad to her you where able to figure it out! :buttrock

Glad to hear you got it running.

so no more SM4 in the US?

Thanks guys!

so no more SM4 in the US?

So I've heard. Who knows what will happen. Maybe mine is more valuable now! :stickoutt


http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2524.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2525.jpg

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/SM4/install/DSC_2527.jpg

I've got an all day dyno appointment for Friday and Saturday :eek: Hopefully I can figure out the boost control by then. :shifty

Hm

I've got an all day dyno appointment for Friday and Saturday :eek: Hopefully I can figure out the boost control by then. :shifty
OMG! I can't wait until Friday! :eek2

Damn dude thats so bad ass. Congrats on the progress!!!

I thought that you didn't even need a dyno for those things... autotune is supposed to do it all. I think that Andreas just drives around and autotune does the rest.

Thanks for the comments guys, feels good to finally be here!

I thought that you didn't even need a dyno for those things... autotune is supposed to do it all. I think that Andreas just drives around and autotune does the rest.

Autotune isn't working so great with my LC-1... Its very very slow. I have to leave it in a cell for like a full minute to make any sort of change. I'm going to have to check my LC-1 settings again and see whats going on.

I have access to a loading mustang dyno for 2 days for the cost of $0... I can't turn that down, haha. :redspot

Thanks for the comments guys, feels good to finally be here!



Autotune isn't working so great with my LC-1... Its very very slow. I have to leave it in a cell for like a full minute to make any sort of change. I'm going to have to check my LC-1 settings again and see whats going on.

I have access to a loading mustang dyno for 2 days for the cost of $0... I can't turn that down, haha. :redspot

I might know why Chris - does the SM4 have any fields for wideband PID control?

I thought that you didn't even need a dyno for those things... autotune is supposed to do it all. I think that Andreas just drives around and autotune does the rest.

You don't have to dyno for your fuel - its just like MS in the way it closed-loop references AFR against a target table. Nothing new. You do need to dyno for timing though, and adjusting timing will alter fuel. So, I guess you could say yeah in the end you will need to dyno. But autotune on Autronic/MS is nice because you can just cruise around and let it do its thing and never touch a thing.

I might know why Chris - does the SM4 have any fields for wideband PID control?

Not sure what PID control is... It has span and offset. I played with them and got it reasonably close but the LC1 is jumping around too much for the autotune to work.

EDIT: Found this: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1877&highlight=sm4

PID is a fundamental algorithm for controlling a controlled loop feedback type system, like an idle valve or like a wideband.

Hrm maybe it doesn't allow enough adjust ability. Does Autronic recommend their own WBO2?

Does Autronic recommend their own WBO2?

Of course they do. It is, unfortunately, very pricey. It is a laboratory grade controller and sensor, thus the high price.

Find your local Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno...they have a Autronic wideband built into them that you can use for autotune, or find a buddy you can "rent" the Autronic WB from.

I would like to see if you do have any luck with the Innovative, though.

the PPF sells an adapter for lm1 and autronic which allows you to use autotune feature without autronic wide band O2 sensor.

http://www.pure-pf.com/webshop/ppf_webshop2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=257

the PPF sells an adapter for lm1 and autronic which allows you to use autotune feature without autronic wide band O2 sensor.

http://www.pure-pf.com/webshop/ppf_webshop2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=257
Nice! Now we are getting somewhere.

Interesting! I'll have to look into this.

Since the official Autronic forum has been down the past few days, I've been thinking about buying a domain and starting an open Autronic forum. Anyone else think it'd be a decent idea?

Interesting! I'll have to look into this.

Since the official Autronic forum has been down the past few days, I've been thinking about buying a domain and starting an open Autronic forum. Anyone else think it'd be a decent idea?

Sounds good to me, but I have never seen the regular Autronic forum.

They might get angry if you do that Chris - I think they only want to support their product on their own site.

True but if there are no dealers to turn to, and their forum is down-- am I out of luck?

Hell no, I say start a community for any autronic enthusiast to participate in-- whether they own one or not!

Hell yea do it. My SMC and I will join.

Also: Can't wait for your dyno chart + setup

Edit: I wish there was something like DSM Link for our cars...

Chris, any progress on tuning your car? Did you get to the Mustang dyno?

Having some boost issues at the moment. I also want to change a few things on my build-- it has taken a detour. Thank you for asking.

I've also lost interest in it really. I hate this weather and the car will be sitting in my garage til its nice out. I'll report back when its all ship shape.

What boost issues are you having? What are you changing on the build??

+1 for all this either cold or rainy BS. Im tired of it too. Ooh well. Were all paitently waiting for updates.

Hey side note, met a kid in my english class at UNH that apparently knows you. WE got talking about my car and your old e30 came up. Cant remember his name. Also met a VW kid named Sarp with a Jti that met you once or twice. Small world...

+1 for all this either cold or rainy BS. Im tired of it too. Ooh well. Were all paitently waiting for updates.

Hey side note, met a kid in my english class at UNH that apparently knows you. WE got talking about my car and your old e30 came up. Cant remember his name. Also met a VW kid named Sarp with a Jti that met you once or twice. Small world...

Haha that's so wierd man. That was my buddy Sean. He was telling me about it but couldn't remember your name either. And yeah I've met Sarp a couple times too, he's a funny dude haha. Small world indeed.

Right on haha. Ive only talked to Sean once and im horrible with names. Yeah Sarp is a trip Hes in my mechanical lab all he wants to do is make a Boser hood for his Jti haha.

Anyway, have any updates??

a32guy

No dyno yet? What is up?

a32guy

No dyno yet? What is up?

Nah not yet Cam. I'm dealing with a boost creep issue. Reading up on it, turns out its pretty common on 35r's with tubular manifolds. I want to move my EGT probe as well as make an oil can much like Carl made.

Dyno to come after everything is sorted.

On a side note... SM4's tune as easy as pie. Autotune had my low load fueling completely dialed in within 30 minutes :)

what is this nonsense about 35r's creeping with tubular manifolds...care to go into any more detail? just curious...

what is this nonsense about 35r's creeping with tubular manifolds...care to go into any more detail? just curious...

Sure. 6psi spring holds 6psi solid til about 4600rpm then creeps to 20psi by 6000 or so.

Whats the issue, just crank it to 20psi all the time! JK ;)

Sure. 6psi spring holds 6psi solid til about 4600rpm then creeps to 20psi by 6000 or so.

uhhmmmmm :rofl

Wouldnt that be more of a waste gate problem than the manifold its on?

What wastegate are you using?

Benny, your sig is still upside down

We have 3 or 4 tubular manifolds with GT35R's around here without major boost creep.. just a silly question but are you sure that your boost control lines are properly hooked up?

It's a Volk manifold.. so I don't think that's the issue, nor is the placement. 44mm real Tial WG. I really think that either the EBC is wrong (if he has one), the vacuum/boost lines are wrong, or he doesn't have the spring that he thinks he does.

It's a Volk manifold.. so I don't think that's the issue, nor is the placement. 44mm real Tial WG. I really think that either the EBC is wrong (if he has one), the vacuum/boost lines are wrong, or he doesn't have the spring that he thinks he does.
Oops...sorry for the ignorance. :embarrasm Yeah boost lines or EBC fail.

I hooked up the wires to the ebc the right way I thought. A ring terminal on the + and PWM signal... then one ring to the top port and the other ring terminal to the side port on the wastegate.

....That is right, isn't it? :dunno
















Kidding. There is no EBC at the moment. I/C pipe is tapped about a foot after compressor outlet. This line goes straight to side port on the genuine Tial 44mm. I know for a fact it is a 6psi spring, I installed it myself. It definitely made alot less boost with the 6psi spring as opposed to the 9psi spring that was in there.

9psi spring vs 6psi spring:
http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/tial/DSC_2435.jpg

Wastegate plunger pulling open at 6psi:
http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/tial/DSC_2440.jpg

I hooked up the wires to the ebc the right way I thought. A ring terminal on the + and PWM signal... then one ring to the top port and the other ring terminal to the side port on the wastegate.

....That is right, isn't it? :dunno
















Kidding. There is no EBC at the moment. I/C pipe is tapped about a foot after compressor outlet. This line goes straight to side port on the genuine Tial 44mm. I know for a fact it is a 6psi spring, I installed it myself. It definitely made alot less boost with the 6psi spring as opposed to the 9psi spring that was in there.

9psi spring vs 6psi spring:

Wastegate plunger pulling open at 6psi:


Wow! Proper testing, way to go! :handclap:handclap

Do you have pics on how it's routed back into the exhaust? Somebody smarter than me might be able to find something. :)

Little update:

Okay so Jon Volk and I were stumped as to why this thing was creeping so bad. I pulled the manifold off and he added a little scoop for the wastegate and ported the collector (as did I when I got it back to the garage). After getting it all back together and tuning some, I am now able to keep under 15psi on a 9 psi spring. I also changed the fuel filter and am no longer running out of fuel up top.

Went to the dyno and I started tuning for wastegate spring. I was a bit disappointed. I got 90% done with tuning fuel, just wanted to smooth out my AFR's a bit in 2 areas... when my exhaust hanger broke at the end of a pull! The rubber snapped free from the hanger and I had to call it quits. I fixed the exhaust and made some changes to the file based off logs. Threw in another 2 - 3 degrees of timing and adjusted fuel. It felt very strong on the street tonight.

So heres where things get interesting: I'm cruising home on I-95 at a steady 70, when there was a sudden loss of power, LOUD squealing, and smoke. Luckily it happened just before my exit, so I jumped off and rolled into a gas station, then limped it home (and got pulled over in my driveway, AGAIN.)

Turns out, the whole time I had the output inverted on the autronic for the A/C compressor. So ever since I've installed the autronic, my A/C compressor has been running with no freon / oil / pressure / anything in the system. It finally locked up on the highway and began roasting the belt. After cutting the belt, I took it out for another cruise. There was a crazy difference-- revved quicker, felt way less restricted, and strong!

Sooooo-- Heres the dyno plot with a stuck ON a/c compressor robbing power, and VANOS turned off. It was 12 psi the most of the run, tapering up to 14 or 15psi by rev limit. The boost isn't coming on as hard as it nearly could because I have NO boost controller in there, just running wastegate spring.

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/tuning/m3dyno01.jpg

Beat my friends 2.0t Jetta if that means anything! :rofl:

And Benny -- I'll get vids soon :redspot

:) good deal dude. keep it going

Progress dude, awesome! Any pictures of the wastegate scoope Jon added? I'm not sure what that is. I kind of have an idea of what it might look like, but who knows.

:) good deal dude. keep it going

Thanks!

Progress dude, awesome! Any pictures of the wastegate scoope Jon added? I'm not sure what that is. I kind of have an idea of what it might look like, but who knows.

Its really just a tab right on the edge of the wastegate opening to help grab more exhaust flow. I didn't snap any pics of it though.

My goal of 450whp WILL be achieved. I'm sure the a/c was robbing a good amount of power. I also plan on getting the boost solenoid working in there soon (laziness owns me).

-Chris

I can vouch for this bad boy feeling strong even with the a/c stuck on. Once you get that boost solenoid on there and you get that 15 psi a bit earlier it'll be a monster. Felt great at that power level can't wait to see what it feels like at 450. Good work chris, glad to see the manifold fix worked for ya.

+1 for pics!

it still sounds like you have a pretty good creep issue, granted its a little more livable now...

Turns out, the whole time I had the output inverted on the autronic for the A/C compressor. So ever since I've installed the autronic, my A/C compressor has been running with no freon / oil / pressure / anything in the system. It finally locked up on the highway and began roasting the belt. After cutting the belt, I took it out for another cruise. There was a crazy difference-- revved quicker, felt way less restricted, and strong!

Sooooo-- Heres the dyno plot with a stuck ON a/c compressor robbing power, and VANOS turned off. It was 12 psi the most of the run, tapering up to 14 or 15psi by rev limit. The boost isn't coming on as hard as it nearly could because I have NO boost controller in there, just running wastegate spring.

http://www.smeraglinolo.com/hosted/turbom3/tuning/m3dyno01.jpg

Beat my friends 2.0t Jetta if that means anything! :rofl:

And Benny -- I'll get vids soon :redspot

LOL! I have already removed my A/C compressor, lines, pulley, and condenser.
A/C is for the weak :nono plus I have A LOT of room to work with to install the IC.

Great thread, I will be using this as a trouble shooting go to guide!

edit: btw what size oil feed and return lines did you use?

So, how did everything turn out? Are you happy?

I figure I'll give an update:

I changed setups and will be running a SPA manifold and T3 exhaust housing on my GT35r. I was having creep issues with the tubular flowing so well and decided that I'd go this route. I am currently looking for an exhaust housing, then I can put it all back together. I'll FINALLY be able to tune the damn thing for once and make some numbers on the dyno. The only time since this thing has been together and I was able to go WOT was when I had a folded in boost pipe creating a HUGE boost leak. That explained why I was able to hold 15 psi, doh! Hopefully after I port the SPA manifold I'll be able to keep the boost around 1 bar!

Will update when the car is back together. Probably won't be soon. :( After its together I need some rubber!

I was wondering how you got the autronic wiring to go into the DME box, did you cut a hole? I was also wondering how you figured out which autronic wire was which? Can I get a diagram for the autronic wiring? maybe pdf..