Is that a cheese grater on youyr roof? ;)

Also, are the front shock canisters going to be mounted down low like that or is that just temporary?

Jay

They are just hanging there, they will be mounted in the engine bay once I figure out exactly where they can fit cleanly.

Yeah, with race spring rates, it might lower an entire 1/2 an inch when you drop the motor in...:lol

Tisk Tisk Bry...you forgot about tenders!

Steve, where did you get the shock covers?


Search the thread, they are here somewhere, I can't recall where I bought them, but they are ATV shock covers. I am not running them on the front right now because I have a feeling debri between the shock and the tire might rip them apart (its close).

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/6-11-08/main/p6100006.jpg


Why is your right front tire rolling backward on the left rear? :stickoutt

Car looks awesome! I've been curious to try that same airtabs setup; it will be interesting to see how well it works.

I set the car up to do in place dohnuts, so the right side goes forward, the left side goes in reverse...like a Tank, its going to be sweet!

Airtabs should work...small piece of a big puzzle.

Edit: Tonight I did some misc stuff, secured rear Ohlins hoses in place, cleaned up, and also test fit an idea i had for a simple rear "diffuser" made of a 1/8" sheet of ABS I had left over.

I have a lot left to do that I can get done before the engine parts arrive, finish Lexan rear side windows, and the cockpit side firewall shield.

Lift is being installed next week, so I'll be ready to go once the last bits of the engine stuff comes in so I can get the engine/trans in, finish the exhaust system, get the turbo setup bolted in, and work on the tons of plumbing and electrical wiring. Man, so much work left...

Is that a P-car I see inside the garage, what else do you guys have in there? Progress is looking great.

Is that a P-car I see inside the garage, what else do you guys have in there? Progress is looking great.

No P-cars right now...I'm hoping to have a Cup car in here though, he's a little fed up with some of his other toys :devillook

I'm hoping to have a Cup car in here though
thats pretty cool I guess

















Lucky SOB :D

thats pretty cool I guess

Lucky SOB :D

Well, it won't be mine...I'm building my racecar :) But my pops is looking for a new toy for next season.

I'm in the garage right now trying to get the damn half shaft stub axles out, and they are not budging at all!

I don't want to do this anymore...I think I'm just going to have to go to the dealer and get the halfshaft press out tool.

Cup cars FTW :D

Car looks good Steve,
-Ted

I'm trying to do the rear wheel bearings in spare time over the last couple nights, but these damn things are seized in, the half shafts more specifically.

Lift is being installed in the morning, but this ain't happening tonight.

I've got Mapp gas, PB blaster, BFH, and the drivers side ain't budging at all!

I could not find a 3 jaw puller to fit the hub as its angled on the back side, so i need a long finger to grip it. I tried to get the BMW tool but they only had one and it was the dealerships.

Any other ideas short of removing the entire trailing arm and taking it to the dealership for them to use the tool?

Remember, this was a fresh water flood car, so I think the splines might be seized onto the hub.

The Pass side moved slightly in, maybe 1/16" but its not budging anymore.

Diesel truck puller?

Air chisel with a pointy end always works for me... sometimes it takes a while.

Pass side is out! Wahoo!!!! Just took a LOT of BFH work :)

Air chisel with a pointy end always works for me... sometimes it takes a while.

+1

Hub is off, but of course the inner race is on there...its going to be a long night. Ok, called it a night, since I have to get up in 6 hours.

I might just run the hub over to a local guy with a bearing seperator and have him yank this thing off.

I'll work on the other hub this week. Hopefully by saturday i can have the damn thing back together.

Pocono Sunday/Monday for Bella Macchine, should be fun.

I'm trying to do the rear wheel bearings in spare time over the last couple nights, but these damn things are seized in, the half shafts more specifically.

Lift is being installed in the morning, but this ain't happening tonight.

I've got Mapp gas, PB blaster, BFH, and the drivers side ain't budging at all!

I could not find a 3 jaw puller to fit the hub as its angled on the back side, so i need a long finger to grip it. I tried to get the BMW tool but they only had one and it was the dealerships.

Any other ideas short of removing the entire trailing arm and taking it to the dealership for them to use the tool?

Remember, this was a fresh water flood car, so I think the splines might be seized onto the hub.

The Pass side moved slightly in, maybe 1/16" but its not budging anymore.

Had the same issue on my E36. The BMW tool wouldn't budge it. So I ended up buying a 5 ton hydraulic 3 jaw puller from HF. Worked, but it still took a lot of force to break the half shaft free.

It takes 20 minutes to unbolt the trailing arm ... that's what I did. Including travel to/from shop, my bearing was on the car in less than 2 hrs. Why fight it?

In regard of stuck rear bearings or halfshaft stub axles, using dry ice to "shrink" the part often help unseize it...

Lee

It takes 20 minutes to unbolt the trailing arm ... that's what I did. Including travel to/from shop, my bearing was on the car in less than 2 hrs. Why fight it?

I have a press and thought about this. but couldn't figure out a way to support the trailing arm in the press with the half shaft in the way.

By the time your all done with this, it might be easier to source the basic parts from a junk yard and pull them out with a proper 20ton press.

I just take a dremel to the stuck Race, a few cuts and a few pings with a hammer and chisle and they crack and come right off.

I 2nd taking arms off, your gonna align the thing anyway when your done.....

Freezing the Hub overnight makes it real easy to get back on too....

Yea, I will see how the drivers side goes. It was not terrible, but a pita regardless. If it does not budge I'll swing it over to a local shop.

BTW, Mohawk lift just installed, awesome!

HIGHLY recommend Ross @ http://www.njlifts.com/

Steve,
I have access to a "factory" bearing puller that you could use on your car. Where, exactly are you located?
PM me if you're interested... I live in CT and commute to NJ daily.
You anywhere near 287?

I've got the passenger side ready to go. Race is gone, hub is cleaned, splines are soaking to get the factory "goo" off, and I just have to buy a new set of beefy snap ring pliers tomorrow and I should have the passenger rear back together tomorrow.

Pics tomorrow.

i just bought some stainless exhaust pieces, gonna weld it myself.

are you MIGing or TIGing your exhaust? what do you think about a 90 degree exhaust bend as long as it's mandrel? i got two 45 angles and one 90 angle, thinking about using the 45s if I can make it work

i just bought some stainless exhaust pieces, gonna weld it myself.

are you MIGing or TIGing your exhaust? what do you think about a 90 degree exhaust bend as long as it's mandrel? i got two 45 angles and one 90 angle, thinking about using the 45s if I can make it work

I prefer to tig the ss exhaust tubing.

Where is the 90 degree in the system? Side exhaust?

I've seen a bunch of side exhausts use the 90 degree to go where the stock fuel tank is, and it doesn't seem to hurt them much...if you can I would avoid it, but it won't do much harm.

I just have a MIG welder.

the 90 is on a side exhaust to come out in front of the fuel tank, but I may be able to make two 45s work with a little persuasion

Your Mig will do just fine with the stainless...I use stainless wire alot with ours and I prefer it to be honest. Tig is better, but the mig will do the job for sure.

-Rick


I just have a MIG welder.

the 90 is on a side exhaust to come out in front of the fuel tank, but I may be able to make two 45s work with a little persuasion

Hey Steve, got any pics of your mohawk lift? Did you get a 2 post? Sounds like a great setup!

Hey Steve, got any pics of your mohawk lift? Did you get a 2 post? Sounds like a great setup!

Pics tonight. Its a fantastic lift, you definitely get what you pay for. Its about twice as much as the Rotory type china made lift. These are made right here in NY, and are BEEFY! They have mechanical and hydraulic locks, and a very simple hydraulic system for autoleveling. Did I mention they are Beefy!

A7 model, 2 post, 7000lbs capacity, but its about 6000 now as we had the posts mounted 6" farther apart to accomodate some 'wide' cars.

Pics a little later, but I can't get this damn drivers side axle out!

I'm slamming it with a huge sledge and drifter, and its not budging! I tried vibrating it with an air chisel, I am soaking it with PB, mapp gas, you know it, its had it.

Any other ideas before I unbolt it and try to see if a bigger machine shop can figure out how to press it out?

Dry ice? Shrink/contract the axle and punch it.

How am I supposed to get the dry ice on the axle? Touching dryice to the very end stub won't do much.

The splines are "seized" in with that loctite-like goo they use on OEM assembly.

Any other ideas before I unbolt it and try to see if a bigger machine shop can figure out how to press it out?
err, unbolt it and take it to a shop with a press.


:)

Yea. The reason I have not done that yet is I did not have time for it, but I might have to make time for it. I have a 30 ton press, the problem is there is no way to easily fit it in the press to get the axle out. I'll see if it'll fit on the press somehow, its a pretty big press, but the hub is an odd shape.

Pics:

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/6-20-08/main/e46lift.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/6-20-08/main/firewall.jpg


Evosport rear side lexan, fits into factory groove with molding/trim, so nice.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/6-20-08/main/sidelexan.jpg

The rotory lifts that Rick and I own Are made In the good ole USA !!!! Steve the best way I've found on axles is a good air hammer with pointed bit, I think what James said is your best bet and try soaking it down with some PB blaster.

-Chris

Steve, are those vortex generators on the roof? Will the car be seeing any wind tunnel time? :)

And damn that lift does look beefy. Some serious beans you've got there.

Where did you get the aluminum reflecting shield you're using in the engine bay? I assume it isn't Home Depot stuff...a buddy was asking about it.

Thanks!

Steve, are those vortex generators on the roof? Will the car be seeing any wind tunnel time? :)

And damn that lift does look beefy. Some serious beans you've got there.

Where did you get the aluminum reflecting shield you're using in the engine bay? I assume it isn't Home Depot stuff...a buddy was asking about it.

Thanks!

No wind tunnel but it has seen CFD time :)

It's Heatshield with adhesive backing from HeatShieldProducts, on top of 030 steel. Covered front and back, it works pretty well.

The rotory lifts that Rick and I own Are made In the good ole USA !!!! Steve the best way I've found on axles is a good air hammer with pointed bit, I think what James said is your best bet and try soaking it down with some PB blaster.

-Chris

Made in the USa is good, but I just liked the features and build quality of the Mohawk, its like the Hummer of lifts :) The forklift channels are 3/4" thick. The Swing arms have 3/4 inch
thick top section, with a 3/8 wall tubing and internal weldments. The arm sliders are 3/8" thick as well. Even the chain is beefy, #646 leaf chain. I figured for the extra couple bucks, its going to be here a long time, I might as well get the best i can, and I found Mohawk to be the best for my application.

Its been soaking in PB, but I think that goo needs something stronger for this one axle. The problem with the air chisel is I don't have a big compressor here. I tried it with the stuff I have here, but its not doing anything.

I'll take a couple more whacks at it today, and if nothing happens I'll take the trailing arm off and try to set it up in the press.

No wind tunnel but it has seen CFD time :)


Care to share some of your cfd analysis and results? I'm curious if you got any valuable info from the 3d model you made.

Care to share some of your cfd analysis and results? I'm curious if you got any valuable info from the 3d model you made.

Actually, I would care :) I will say, even form the base model ("stock e46 m3"), there was some very good info discovered and "confirmed." I'm actually still waiting on the full aero CFD, as the guy I had helping me had some "contract" work take priority.

Ok, so trailing arm is off, but even with my 30 ton press, it would need a completely custom rig/apparatus to fit on the press and provide a rigid enough platform to press the axle out.

So frustrating. :mad

That is so whacked! I've had mine in and out 3-4 times the last 3 years...first time was first ever for this car and it was 10yrs old. All but one of its years was in CA/AZ though..nice dry climates.

Killer lift!

This is a CA car, but I think this axle might have been in water and rusted/seized...remember this was a fresh water Cali flood car. The water was not high at all, and everything worked on the car, all electronics, etc.

This is why I am replacing the bearings in the first place, as its a low mileage e46 m3, the bearings are probably still good, but I did not want to take a chance...but I had no idea this would be so stubborn.

I've had it soaking in PB for a couple hours, I'm going to bolt it back up and give it a few more whacks.

Only thing left is to take it over to a bigger machine shop locally and see if they can fit it in their press, or maybe they have a much bigger hydraulic gear puller they can use.

Again, these axles have the loctite-like goo on it, and it takes a lot to break that bond. Once the bond is gone, they push right out, but combine the goo with some rust-seize and its in there solid.

Steve, just say the word and I'll come and get it off for you.:D

I'll just bring it over to a local shop with bigger tools :)

I've got a track day tomorrow and monday, but weather looks shitty.

I've got a track day tomorrow and monday, but weather looks shitty.

Are you gonna "Fred Flintstone" the M3? :)

Are you gonna "Fred Flintstone" the M3? :)

I'm strapping a rocket in the trunk for now, hopefully this delrin rear wheel bearing will hold up at 250mph :)

Are you gonna "Fred Flintstone" the M3? :)

:lol

MAPP couldn't get it hot enough for me... I have a torch - something like http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=81597-1703-KH663&lpage=none.

I heated it up until it barely changed color, let it cool a little, then one whack and out it came. Mine was on my '95 M3 that has seen a lot of winter driving in Ohio - ie, road salt and rust.

No wind tunnel but it has seen CFD time :)

I have not read through everything but I do recall you talking about doing the CFD stuff. What did you use for experimental correlation?

Cheers.

The full aero model has not been run yet, but it is fully modelled. I got bumped by some "Contract" work, but the stock data was correlated with some data i got from wind tunnels in the UK and OEM numbers. They were pretty good. I'm not an aero guy, I just interpreted the information that the CFD dude gave me. Its CFD...so its obviously not definitive or "actual," but for a couple bucks, its worth doing IMO. I wanted to try to get into every aspect of developing the car, and the aero was something I wanted to learn about.

Got back from the track early today, brought the trailing arm over to a friends engine shop down the road (muscle car guy). He took out a truck axle puller, and within 10minutes (after some heat and me finding my oem lug nuts) the axle was out!

Time to swap in the new bearing and reassemble!

We had one of these at the track this weekend, its ridiculous!

http://www.maseraticorse.com/modules/racegall/img/020122080102014507b.jpg

What track? Was nice having the MC12 for the brief time it was in ALMS.......

Boring Pocono...lots of lead footers like to do top speed runs.

It was a brand new, 8 lap old straight from italy MC12S, all blacked out, it was pretty sick.

There was also the first Koenigsegg CCX in the US there, it was also pretty insane, but I was dissappoointed to see some rod ends in partial bending on the front suspension! I was grilling the guys with technical questions, as they were trying to be hot shots at the track with this $1M 800hp toy that many people at the event could afford, but would rather have Ferrari's lol

http://www.koenigsegg.com/images/img_cars_ccx_06.jpg

"partial" bending?

Basically the upper a-arm on the front upright has a rod end that is north-south. Its in double shear, but on right hands the force will put the rod end in bending, instead of along the axis of the race.

The rear susp is a little awkward also, the entire "arm" is the pivoting point for the shock. I would have thought they'd use a push rod instead.

There was a LOT of attention to detail though. Little things, like the roof inlet to the engine bay had about a dozen small vortex generators.

I did like the rear swaybar, but the car is built as a supercar, but not built to be adjusted.

http://www.supercars.net/gallery/119513/1854/775526.jpg

The sway bar is that Z-shaped assembly under the engine bay brace with the emblem on it, correct? And the center bar of it is what resists forces? If that is the case, if there center bar were adjustable in length, that could make it adjustable. :)

Nice pics of the MC12 and Koenigsegg, but how about some nice pics of your car on the track already! lol

I'm trying :) I'm doing some work on one of my dads racecars now, trying to make an event at Lime rock in July with some new mod (lexan and new dampers).

Good lord, no wonder there is a shortage of carbon :D



http://www.supercars.net/gallery/119513/1854/775526.jpg

Its a semi monocoque, impressive carbon tub actually, crash tested and everything.

Its a semi monocoque, impressive carbon tub actually, crash tested and everything.

Never seen one in person, but I've been a fan since day one. I have the new EVO with the 1000 BHP biofuel variant. The composite work on that car is simply amazing.

Yea, its pretty amazing in person. It was just a dealer that brought it, and had a dinky trailer, but they had a 42" LCD with satelite in the back and we watched the F1 race :)

The electrical system is pretty cool, all solid state, and very clean.

ON TOPIC though, the rear is back together, and chilling on the lift.

the rear is back together, and chilling on the lift.

pics

pics

I'll grab some tonight. I'm going to start mocking up some wiring. I need to install the fire bottle to get the wiring/electronics locations down. I'm still waiting on some engine stuff so i can get the motor in...

Speaking of engine stuff, why did you decide to go with a turbo 2.8 liter M52?

I always thought an M62B44 or S62B50 would be cool in an E46, and why not since you would still be in the same classification when it comes down to BMWCCA Mod classifying? I would think you could have some fun with the rules since engine relocations are free and you could mount a V8 really low and far back in the engine bay.

Speaking of engine stuff, why did you decide to go with a turbo 2.8 liter M52?

I always thought an M62B44 or S62B50 would be cool in an E46, and why not since you would still be in the same classification when it comes down to BMWCCA Mod classifying? I would think you could have some fun with the rules since engine relocations are free and you could mount a V8 really low and far back in the engine bay.

Well, thats a lot more work (more work than I wanted to do anyways), plus you can get some silly power/torque at low psi on M52's...way more than enough.

The V8 was an option, but I felt the turbo 2.8L was my best option to start off with. We'll see how it goes.

V8 is possible in the future if the turbo does not work out, but going off Evosport's results, i think I'll be happy once its dialed in.

Apparently it drives like a V8 too :)

Also, I've seen the V8's run in the E46's, and was never too impressed with them.

You can only run the motor so low and so far back...in the end, its not going to make the car marginally faster, if at all. With a bottom mount turbo, a lot of the extra weight is down low, although the intercooler and stuff in front does suck a bit...but i have some things i'm trying to help offset that.

V8 is possible in the future if the turbo does not work out, but going off Evosport's results, i think I'll be happy once its dialed in.

Heh, yeah, Evosports has both John Holder's and Carl Lagoni's with that exact same setup right? With one being a top mount turbo and the other a bottom mount. Guess I need to check out holder's thread. Really impressive cars with tons of power, but it seems like they had a lot of heat related problems.

Carl has a similar setup, but a built motor, slightly bigger turbo (they have higher power goals than me). Holder has a top mount, and a built 2.8L, again, higher power goals.

just went through the past 10 pages as ive been away for a while. This is looking great! It looks like you've been enjoying yourself through the build. A friend and myself just finished a year-long build on a rally car with similar levels of fabricating and development and it was a blast.

cant wait to see more progress! nice looking shop you have there, keep up the good work!

Thanks, I'm lucky to have access to my pops garage, although I've been purchasing everything for the shop so far lol

Any links to your rally car build/pics?

Thanks, I'm lucky to have access to my pops garage, although I've been purchasing everything for the shop so far lol

Any links to your rally car build/pics?



Ah nice, Im fighting for some space for my E36 M3 project.

Here is the Rally link, enjoy. It includes a FULL build library.

http://saabrally.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=355

teaser pics
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/328ischef/RallycarJune2008020.jpg
http://www.artekphoto.com/IMG_9446.jpg

We were to dominate 2WD open, but unfortunately it was not to be, we had a non-violent barrel roll in the 7th stage, causing the departure of our necessary windshield.

http://www.zoto.com/ilikeitsideways/img/600x600x0/47508075363a104a0aab382af7a3facf.jpg

Car is 90% back together, we have a rally next month.

Sorry to hi-jack! Keep up the GREAT work!

Sweeet, looks like a ton of fun!

Wow, I could only dream to create a car like that in my future

I made the brake lines today, although I might replace the hard line from the rear MC to the bulkhead fitting with a soft line. Also, there is a picture of the relay/power distribution box i started. I still have to make the accessory out wires, and another power input for other power distribution where relays are not being used. I also got the Sparco Fire Suppression system in from Evosport, and will be plumbing that shortly as well.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050007.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050004.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050006.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050005.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050003.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050008.jpg

Why use a hard line for one and a braided line for the other in the first place?

I basically did it as a test to see how hard it would be to install and service. So far, it seems the softline in that spot is easier to work with. The soft line has a min radius of 1.5" while the hardline I don't feel as comfortable making such tight bends.

show some pics of the underside and topside (and exit) of your side exhaust tunnel again. i'm building one and would like to see yours. are you lining the underside with heat resistant shielding? what gauge metal did you use to build it?

I can't remember the exact thickness, but since I removed the cross beams (where the seats mount to) I might have made it a bit beefy, 080 rings a bell.

yes, I used heatShieldProducts on the bottom and topside.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-22-06/main/tunnel6.jpg


Best I could find for the underside:


http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/undercoating2.JPG

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/4-28-08/main/p4270005.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-22-06/main/tunnel1.jpg

Steve,
Could you do me a favor and measure across the inside of the frame rails at the firewall. I'm doing some measuring for V-8 installation and I want to compare E36/E46 engine bay.
Thanks,
Greg

Have you considered routing your braided brake lines somewhere more protected than on LCA, tie rod?

As many times as I've gone agricultural and banged up stuff under the car with rocks, etc., I'd want them up higher as much as possible.

Jay

Have you considered routing your braided brake lines somewhere more protected than on LCA, tie rod?

As many times as I've gone agricultural and banged up stuff under the car with rocks, etc., I'd want them up higher as much as possible.

Jay

The rear is easy to change around, good catch. Thats an easy change.

The front is pretty well protected on the control arm. I think it'll be more susceptable to damage when routed up the shock body though b/c then it has to span across to the firewall area.

Have you considered routing your braided brake lines somewhere more protected than on LCA, tie rod?

+1

You also might consider making some rubber grommets to go around the line at contact points; some pieces of cut poly hose would work fine.
In my experience, braided metal lines can act like a saw in high vibration environments, and the steel could easily damage the AL control arm.

+1

You also might consider making some rubber grommets to go around the line at contact points; some pieces of cut poly hose would work fine.
In my experience, braided metal lines can act like a saw in high vibration environments, and the steel could easily damage the AL control arm.

I have the tubing protection, I just did not put it on yet. Thanks for the tip though, I do need to put it on the todo list so I don't forget.

I started wiring everything in the back of the car (fuel pump, brake lights, fuel level sender).

Updated pedal assembly brake line setup:

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-6-08/main/p7050007.jpg

I also made a quick diffuser to test fitment of an idea, but it needs work...not satisfied with where the "flap" is positioned. Basically my approach to this component is there is no way to seal off all the air coming in through the suspension and whatnot, so I'm going to have air flow over and under it.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/diffusertest.jpg

I also made a quick diffuser to test fitment of an idea, but it needs work...not satisfied with where the "flap" is positioned. Basically my approach to this component is there is no way to seal off all the air coming in through the suspension and whatnot, so I'm going to have air flow over and under it.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/diffusertest.jpg

Is this suppose to add downforce, or is it just for aerodynamics?

Is this suppose to add downforce, or is it just for aerodynamics?

Last I checked downforce is a part of aerodynamics :)

This is just the mockup part, to test fitment and get some dimensions.

The final version will extend farther back to the limit of the rules (1" past bumper), and it'll have strakes.

Made some good progress tonight. I got the Fuel cell (pump and level sensor) wired up, and also finished the brake light wiring. I also am almost done with the fire suppression system install, just got one last head to install in the engine bay, but I might wait until the engine is in to run that line. I'm going to start on the rest of the wiring tomorrow.
I'm hopefully getting the clutch discs in next week, so I can get the trans bolted up, and the engine dropped in...then the "fun" starts lol Fab side exhaust, finish modifying the turbo, plumb everything, and wire it up .

Last I checked downforce is a part of aerodynamics :)




Actually that was a good question. Downforce "is" one aspect of aerodynamics, but only one. Aircraft have no need for "downforce" except on control surfaces. You can clean up the front of your car (or truck or plane, etc) and lower the drag, but gain no downforce.

Diffusers aim to lower drag by cleaning up the lower surfaces, and create a low pressure zone (when designed correctly) that can add some downforce. (essentually its a vacum effect on the underside)

Anyways, looking good Steve!

Essentially, you want the car to act more as a big wing. So when you look at the car from the side profile, to to enclose a wing profile around it. For example, look at F1 and LMP cars, the core of their aero, when viewed from the side, is a big ass wing.

Unfortunately, the guy who did the preliminary CFD analysis for me has moved to europe to pursue an F1 career, and he does not have the resources available to finish my anaylsis. Although, the initial runs/analysis he did already proved its worth looking into. I have the model already done, I just need someone to run it, and I can compare the data with the data I have so far.

But for this diffuser, because of rules, it'll be pretty simple. Since we can only go to the axles, and there is just the small covering where the stock gas tank was, it just has to be what it is. Try to reduce any drag thats back there, and opening up all the air paths seems to be the easiest method.

Bummer about your CFD dude! Sorry hear that Steve! Wish I knew someone where I work that could help! LOL! (I work for Boeing!)

Its moreso an issue of finding someone who knows what their doing...access to the software/hardware is not so much a problem, its finding someone who knows what they are doing, specifically with a race car model.

Its ok, I think i have enough info at this point to make some edumacated guesses.

Quick update: I am almost done with all the wiring power/grounding. I am waiting for new circuit breakers to come in (I got higher quality ones with screw terminals), and then I can wire the ground/power to each switch. Then its just a wire from each switch to the accessory and I'm most of the way there. The engine harness will be the next biggy to tackle.

Its moreso an issue of finding someone who knows what their doing...access to the software/hardware is not so much a problem, its finding someone who knows what they are doing, specifically with a race car model.

Very true.
CFD is far from being a "plug and chug" application. You need someone with experience to provide measured inputs, who can then correctly interpret the results.
Kudos to you for understanding that a pretty picture isn't automatically valid because a computer says it is. :D

I wish a pretty picture was it...then I can just photoshop my results and a call it day :)

Quick update. Finally got a chance to get some more argon and c25, so I finished a project i had sitting ready to go: Rear view mirror. Looks beefy, but its super light, and rigid so I don't get any of those mirror shakes. Plus its easily adjustable.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/rearview.JPG


Here is part of the other project/car I'm working on, hustling to get it done for an event at Lime Rock next week. Its turning into a very last minute project, but I think I might have it under control...kind of.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/ohlinsmount.JPG

Whats that for?

Whats that for?
+1

I made 4 of them. (and look at the file name) :)

I made 4 of them. (and look at the file name) :)

Guessed it right off....except for the Ohlins part *Cough cough baller
:stickoutt

Guessed it right off....except for the Ohlins part *Cough cough baller
:stickoutt

They are for Ohlins ST44's.

they are for ohlins st44's.

Fsae?

Fsae?

No, good lord those would be MASSIVE for Fsae :)

Its for an exotic (italian) factory racecar.

No, good lord those would be MASSIVE for Fsae :)

Its for an exotic (italian) factory racecar.
Oh god the suspense!!!

I did find a place in CA that was open and had the tenders at 7pm EST, BUT the damn UPS driver missed the pickup by 5 minutes! BIG THANKS TO ARLAN MOTORSPORT! Outstanding service for a "stranger." So now they are coming Monday, and I'll have to get everything mounted/reassembled, align, corner balance, and then picked up Tuesday for a friday/saturday Lime rock event.

ST44's

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/st44ohlins.JPG

New home:

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/susp.JPG

OMG, no mcpherson strut?!?!? You can't post that here, sorry.

I don't get it. Didn't you already have some Ohlins on the car? Why the change to the standard eye to eye coilover? How will you adjust front camber? Or am I mistaken? Too many pages to go back through...lol

I don't get it. Didn't you already have some Ohlins on the car? Why the change to the standard eye to eye coilover? How will you adjust front camber? Or am I mistaken? Too many pages to go back through...lol

Sorry for the confusion. This is for another car...hence the picture of another cars suspension :)

Cat's out of the bag. Ferrari Challenge car....

Cat's out of the bag. Ferrari Challenge car....

Lol, dual brake ducts and cooler lines give it away ehy? :stickoutt

What year Challenge car?

Josh

This is a 95. 2001 left the stable this week making room for some new toys.

Back to E46 though...I have some parts coming in the next week that should allow me to get going on the engine install, wahoo!

nice project, got tired of looking through most of the pages......please show once the car is complete in a new post with some videos!!!

Of course. One step at a time though :)

Steve, nice to finally meet you. Keep going with the build!!! If you need help on the car myself and my friends work for beers, even bud light :)

Nice to meet you too, we had a nice chat that went from 15min to 2 hours pretty quickly lol. :stickoutt

I had some complications with one of the shocks tonight, so all that rushing resorted to me putting the stock suspension back on the car so my pops can make this event. Oh well. Atleast we can make the event.

I think Saturday night I might start to get the trans cleaned up, and assemble the clutch/flywheel, and get ready to put the motor in finally. I just need to consult Gary @ Evosport for the HRB.

Updates next week should be good :)

Steve,

What clutch package did you go with?

I went with a tilton 2 disc 7.25" with a Evosport 7.25" flywheel, along with a tilon hydraulic release bearing, with Evosports adapter.

Oh the suspense! Sounds so close to being done! Good luck with it all.

Race cars are never done :help

aint that the truth!! just when I thought i was done, i went and switched from IP to C-mod:(

Race cars are never done :help

Hehe, true, but isn't that part of the fun? Maybe I should say "It's almost rolling on it's own power" or more optimistically, "It's almost ready to win races".

I can't wait for more pics!

Got back from Lime Rock this afternoon:

I enjoyed the new LRP, but it definitely has a different line to it now.

I had a last minute problem with the new Ohlins, so I had to get the stock shock setup back on the car. I figured at least we can drive the car...but it felt like shit. It was plowing and understeering, and 4wheel drifting was "fun" as you can see in the video. I got the car corner balanced 50.0, but the ride heights were not set right...and it makes a huge difference on these cars.

I'm hopefully going to have the E46 ready for an event at NJMP TB to shakedown the car (September), for which I'll have the Ohlins on the 355Ch.

Our friend brought his 997 Cup car - now THAT'S a car!

I got some more wiring done on the E46 tonight, and am getting the clutch/trans ready this week...then the engine/driveshaft/etc can go in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoyJYsbnXU4

nice build, i admire the quality you're investing

nice build, i admire the quality you're investing

"investing" ????
:lol

your funny! but I know what you meant.

Hands down, WORST FINANCIAL INVESTMENT EVER!

But as far as investing in my happiness, its pretty damn good :)

:D

Ground/Power/Breakers are all done, just need to run the power to each accessory from the switches. Also got a chance to install passenger door handle. It came out really nice. it securely holds the door shut, and it can easily be opened from the outside and inside.


http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-27-08/index.htm


http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-27-08/main/p7260001.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-27-08/main/p7260002.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-27-08/main/p7260004.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/7-27-08/main/p7260005.jpg

is that a mini-door latch? very interesting. where did you get it....i'd be very interested in getting some of those instead of having to use these damn door pins

is that a mini-door latch? very interesting. where did you get it....i'd be very interested in getting some of those instead of having to use these damn door pins

Its a Southco flush slam latch. It took me forever to find the right one. It has a latch on the inside, so you can open it from the inside too. plus its flush on the outside, so its aero friendly ;)

Making me give all my hard earned research finds away for free ehy :stickoutt

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/329740039msk.htm

Cheap, good quality, and works nicely.

Having a good 2" sheet metal hole saw is very nice, cuts a precision hole in the door.

Oh yea, my wing should be ready by the end of this week. Had to change manufacturers due to some manufacturing constraints, and the new guy is more expensive, but the product is superior. Should have it done and mounted this weekend, or early next week.

cool, thanks. i thought you engineers knew how to find parts without research :D

cool, thanks. i thought you engineers knew how to find parts without research :D

I have not had an engineering job in a couple years, so I'm forced to do the manual labor again lol

cool, thanks. i thought you engineers knew how to find parts without research :D

:lol Funny guy!:nono

I have not had an engineering job in a couple years, so I'm forced to do the manual labor again lol

Steve, the most impressive thing is that you're an or were and engineer and the wiring actually looks neat :) Oh wait, you weren't an electrical engineer...

Back in 1999 or 1998 when they had the formula electric car we went to their cage and helped out and when I lifted the bodywork every wire in the car was unmarked and every wire was the SAME color. I think I just started laughing out loud, needless to say the other students that were working on the project didn't appreciate my help so much :(

Steve, the most impressive thing is that you're an or were and engineer and the wiring actually looks neat :) Oh wait, you weren't an electrical engineer...

Back in 1999 or 1998 when they had the formula electric car we went to their cage and helped out and when I lifted the bodywork every wire in the car was unmarked and every wire was the SAME color. I think I just started laughing out loud, needless to say the other students that were working on the project didn't appreciate my help so much :(


Thanks. Mechanical all the way. Electric car is STILL in the shop, but many years ago we moved what was left of it up into the loft storage area.

That thing was such a pile, we had like 500lb capacitors sitting in there for a long time.

I like things organized, so the wiring might not be all mil spec, but it'll work and I can trace stuff. All power is centralized, all grounds are centralized, etc.

looking good

I'm almost ready to install the engine, a couple last bits coming tomorrow, and I think I should be able to get the trans mounted, and the engine into the car.

Made a gas pedal side support out of ABS. Feels really nice, and gives good support, and protection from trans tunnel and the bias cable/wire.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/pedals.JPG

And the rear shock reservoirs mounted:

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/shockmount.JPG

And I might as well show the doggy, not a puppy anymore, 11.5lbs! Fastass...

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/izzzzzy.JPG

How is heal-toe with that pedal box?

How is heal-toe with that pedal box?

The Heel toe is pretty good from the pedals I've used before. I might make a small tab on the pedal so i can reach it a bit easier though, as its a little far from the brake pedal.

ABS side pad is a neat idea. Now you won't get ugly goo all over the side of your shoe. Oh wait...... you removed all the goo :) It's my car that has all the goo.

Jay

ABS side pad is a neat idea. Now you won't get ugly goo all over the side of your shoe. Oh wait...... you removed all the goo :) It's my car that has all the goo.

Jay

Haha, nice. I've seen this done in some factory cars, I think there is even a carbon peice offered from BMW MS like this.

Need to move that Gas Pedal "higher" in relation to the brakes. I had mine like yours and couldn't get to the gas pedal to blip the throttle on downshift - very frustrating.

Now my gas pedal sits flush with the brake pedals at rest, or a little above even. The evosport crew also added a "pedal cover" to move the gas pedal closer to the brake - works well.

Need to move that Gas Pedal "higher" in relation to the brakes. I had mine like yours and couldn't get to the gas pedal to blip the throttle on downshift - very frustrating.

Now my gas pedal sits flush with the brake pedals at rest, or a little above even. The evosport crew also added a "pedal cover" to move the gas pedal closer to the brake - works well.

I might add a pedal extension to make it easier to blip, but I think I'm going to have more pedal travel than you. I prefer more brake pedal modulation, instead of a rock hard brake pedal. So I sized the MC's to have a little less pedal effort.

Did you ever post pics of your wing. I see you have the uprights mounted, pics?

Did you ever post pics of your wing. I see you have the uprights mounted, pics?

Wing is not finished yet...next week I'm hoping to have it in my hands. Then I'll post pics once its mounted.

Wing is not finished yet...next week I'm hoping to have it in my hands. Then I'll post pics once its mounted.

I saw a rendering of it, it's just a "little" wing. Anyone sense sarcasm? :)

Actually, width wise, its smaller than the setup on most of the mod cars. :)

Anybody want to buy an E46? :) I want a porsche and this thing is taking too much to do right.

Kidding...kind of.

I've got the engine sitting in, but the trans is slightly off from the bolt holes in the tunnel, and I can't figure out whats keeping it off line.

I might have to call for reinforcement to help maneuver this thing...

Getting frustrated though, its almost not fun right now. I don't think with my new job I can deal with doing this in a timely fashion...I need a shop to just finish this thing.

Getting frustrated though, its almost not fun right now. I don't think with my new job I can deal with doing this in a timely fashion...I need a shop to just finish this thing.

Dude, push through!!! :buttrock

There are sticking points in every major project, we've all been there!
You're way past the point of no return, you're fighting for every inch, and you feel like you still have a million miles left to go. The good news is, this won't last forever, and if you keep pushing you'll hit your stride again.
Your build is great, most of us would kill for a project like this! Don't give up, we're all with you in spirit! :)

You promise me a spin behind the wheel and I'll come down and help out personally. You buy the beer. :)

I was just frustrated...little venting helps once in a while :eyecrazy

Anyways, I'm in a little better mood now, figured out the problem, and got the engine situated.

Car as it sits is 2250lbs, not too bad. Heavy items left are Spa Manifold, Turbo, Side Exhaust Piping, intercooler, radiator, plumbing, Lexan windshield, and misc engine bay stuff. What do you guys think, another 300lbs? I would be very happy with 2550lbs, considering ~50lbs would be gone once I go carbon doors/trunk/hood.

To be honest, this thing could be 2750lbs, and I would still be happy once its done.

The next project is going to be MUCH simpler, I'd like to build my pops a 996 GT3 streetable track car. But I'm done building cars ground up...just not worth it. Everything here on out will be bought pre-built (preferably by a factory motorsport program ;))


http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/enginein.JPG

Project looks good Steve, keep it up.

As far as street GT3's versus Cup cars, go with a cup car all the way. I got out of mine into a client's street car (not stock either) and it was thoroughly disappointing. Food for thought.
-Ted

Project looks good Steve, keep it up.

As far as street GT3's versus Cup cars, go with a cup car all the way. I got out of mine into a client's street car (not stock either) and it was thoroughly disappointing. Food for thought.
-Ted

Yea, I've actually had a couple people tell me that. We ran a 997 cup car at Lime Rock, and it was awesome, but I think a well setup 996 cup car can keep up with a good driver. Many have told me the 997 is a bit tougher to get the last tenths out of compared to the 996 (more forgiving i guess too, plus the trans is 25hrs or less).

I agree, 100%, cup car is better...but you can't take it for a sunday drive if its nice outside (legally). :)

Well, if you're headed that direction, get a 997 GT3. I've been lucky enough to spend some time in both 996 and 997 street cars and my 996 cup car (no 997 cup.... yet), and though the 996 cup is the best, between the two street machines, the 997 is worlds better.
-Ted

Well, if you're headed that direction, get a 997 GT3. I've been lucky enough to spend some time in both 996 and 997 street cars and my 996 cup car (no 997 cup.... yet), and though the 996 cup is the best, between the two street machines, the 997 is worlds better.
-Ted

But for the money...would a "track prepped" 996 gt3 be better than a stock 997 gt3, as there is a hefty price difference.

I'd like to drop a 3.8 or even the 4.0 in it, that'd be intense :alright

I was just frustrated...little venting helps once in a while :eyecrazy

Anyways, I'm in a little better mood now, figured out the problem, and got the engine situated.

Car as it sits is 2250lbs, not too bad. Heavy items left are Spa Manifold, Turbo, Side Exhaust Piping, intercooler, radiator, plumbing, Lexan windshield, and misc engine bay stuff. What do you guys think, another 300lbs? I would be very happy with 2550lbs, considering ~50lbs would be gone once I go carbon doors/trunk/hood.

To be honest, this thing could be 2750lbs, and I would still be happy once its done.

The next project is going to be MUCH simpler, I'd like to build my pops a 996 GT3 streetable track car. But I'm done building cars ground up...just not worth it. Everything here on out will be bought pre-built (preferably by a factory motorsport program ;))



"The night is darkest just before dawn... and the dawn is coming."

Hehe, I watch too many movies, but how could you be saying all this stuff before you've even driven your car on a track yet! Common, you're not too far off!

So close, but so far. Its all in the details

I just don't have enough engine experience to speed through the engine portion of this build, so its a little tougher than me putting together suspension/chassis stuff.

Basically, everything behind the firewall is essentially done, other than running the fuel lines from the cell, its all in the engine bay now.

If it was as easy as just dropping the car off at a shop to finish the engine stuff in 3 weeks for $xxxxx, I'd do it in s heartbeat, but its not an option.

But for the money...would a "track prepped" 996 gt3 be better than a stock 997 gt3, as there is a hefty price difference.

I'd like to drop a 3.8 or even the 4.0 in it, that'd be intense :alright

997 does EVERYTHING better than the 996. Don't waste your time with a 996 unless its a Cup.

997 does EVERYTHING better than the 996. Don't waste your time with a 996 unless its a Cup.

The 997 GT3's are running 125-150k right now. You can get a nice 996 GT3 for well 80k, and then put $20k into Ohlins, Harness/roll bar (street safe 4pt), carbon seats, lightwheels w/slicks, Cup Wing, RS front bumper/splitter...and still be significantly cheaper than a 997.

The 997 GT3's are running 125-150k right now. You can get a nice 996 GT3 for well 80k, and then put $20k into Ohlins, Harness/roll bar (street safe 4pt), carbon seats, lightwheels w/slicks, Cup Wing, RS front bumper/splitter...and still be significantly cheaper than a 997.

Last week, I had the opportunity to drive a car that's exactly as you describe (except Motons, not Ohlins) and came away totally disappointed. A stock 997 GT3 with ceramic brakes and Pilot Sport Cups would've destroyed it.

If you can convince pop to get a 997, do it.
-T

Last week, I had the opportunity to drive a car that's exactly as you describe (except Motons, not Ohlins) and came away totally disappointed. A stock 997 GT3 with ceramic brakes and Pilot Sport Cups would've destroyed it.

If you can convince pop to get a 997, do it.
-T

Gotcha. So far 997 seems to be the winner. Will do, thanks!

Now back to our regularly scheduled program: E46.

I'm fitting the shifter in right now, and it looks like I need a shorter shifter rod, hopefully UUC has a DSSR to fit, I only need it like 15mm shorter.

Last week, I had the opportunity to drive a car that's exactly as you describe (except Motons, not Ohlins) and came away totally disappointed. A stock 997 GT3 with ceramic brakes and Pilot Sport Cups would've destroyed it.

If you can convince pop to get a 997, do it.
-T
Really? The 996 GT3 has be known to be a "driver's car". Have you driven both back to back or you're just taking a guess? If we're spending someone else's money why not a 997 GT3RS? :) And for the record PCCBs look cool, but suck ass on the track. Ask me how I know. ;)

Really? The 996 GT3 has be known to be a "driver's car".

Wait... so does that imply you are not much of a "driver"? :eek::devillook:alright:redspot:buttrock :stickoutt

Really? The 996 GT3 has be known to be a "driver's car". Have you driven both back to back or you're just taking a guess? If we're spending someone else's money why not a 997 GT3RS? :) And for the record PCCBs look cool, but suck ass on the track. Ask me how I know. ;)

Steve you putting PCCBs on your E46? In my experience with a GT3RS they rocked. (E46 content there)

996 is the stepchild, it only took up space between the 993 and 997.

So when are all the turbo plumbing supplies going to arrive? Is anything "simple" say copying a currently running/proven setup? Just wondering.

I've heard (and seen) the PCCB's are not the prefered choice at the race track.

Turbo plumbing supplies...trying.

Its all custom really, since there are basically no other racecars running a turbo besides Evosport, and they route the turbo differently than the way I am going. I'm routing it between the engine and the turbo, so I can use the stock subframe brace. It should not be terribly difficult, just time consuming, and headaches with getting everything ordered correctly within 2-3 tries lol

Wait... so does that imply you are not much of a "driver"? :eek::devillook:alright:redspot:buttrock :stickoutt
That's right and that's why I'm considering selling it to get an E36. Oh snap!!

Really? The 996 GT3 has be known to be a "driver's car". Have you driven both back to back or you're just taking a guess? If we're spending someone else's money why not a 997 GT3RS? :) And for the record PCCBs look cool, but suck ass on the track. Ask me how I know. ;)

I've driven both on track and the 997 was far superior in my mind. I think the gearing is too tall for the track on both cars, but the 997 has the grunt to make up for it.

As far as the ceramic brakes go, I was very impressed with their performance on track, however I've not had experience with them for a full day's use (not my cars).

I've not driven a 997 GT3 RS, but the 997 GT3 was good enough in my mind that the small difference in the two cars (on paper) is not worth the large difference in price.
-Ted

EDIT: Sorry for the thread jack Steve. Good luck on the build, and you can PM me if you have any more P-Car questions :)

Thanks for the info guys, but porsche talk is now over ;)

I ordered a ton of engine misc fittings and $hit last night, so slowly...inch by inch...it's getting there.

I ordered a ton of engine misc fittings and last night, so slowly...inch by inch...it's getting there.

Your credit card must have taken a beating...I know mine did.

Your credit card must have taken a beating...I know mine did.

Has had, is having and will continue to take a beating :stickoutt

I've heard (and seen) the PCCB's are not the prefered choice at the race track.

Turbo plumbing supplies...trying.

Its all custom really, since there are basically no other racecars running a turbo besides Evosport, and they route the turbo differently than the way I am going. I'm routing it between the engine and the turbo, so I can use the stock subframe brace. It should not be terribly difficult, just time consuming, and headaches with getting everything ordered correctly within 2-3 tries lol

Hmm, I know some guys in Atlanta who do things that way... maybe you should talk to them? :ponder

;)

HPF has a replacement brace available. Not sure if it will help in your case.

I've seen the HPF brace...ok for a street car, but I want the stock peice for a racecar. No reason why I can't run it how I want to, I just have to weld a small elbow onto the housing, its done all the time, and from what i have seen it works great.

Quick update, one more thing crossed off the list: shifter - Done! I also have the clutch HRB bleed line done, and should have the clutch and brakes bled and ready to go as soon as I confirm the HRB setup is correct.

I finally got the wing done. I just need to make some aero washers for the bolts, and get some countersunk bolts. It came out really really nice. Everything mates up cleanly, it has great side to side rigidity, and its very light, under 8lbs for the wing and end plate mounts. I made 3 settings - zero, average, and [slow track] uber downforce :)

And a picture of finished shifter.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040001.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040002.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040003.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040004.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040005.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040006.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-5-08/main/p8040007.jpg

Nice! Looks like a V-8 Super Car from down under.

254363

Kind of, but its pretty much what those M5's run in the Euro Super Star series:

http://www.eurosuperstars.com/mediagallery/photo/sts_vallelunga_4.jpg

What! Button head bolts would be way more aero.

What! Button head bolts would be way more aero.

Problem is its not much material under the head. You have to be careful if you don't use a larger washer, as it can start to rip through the panel. Using a large aero washer prevents this from happening.

http://www.pennon.com/products/wings/Street%20wings/carbonWngPlt.JPG

Yes, button head's would be a bad idea...

Steve, you can make up the extra drag from the additional frontal area by turning up the boost like another .0000000000001 bar :)

Yes, button head's would be a bad idea...

Steve, you can make up the extra drag from the additional frontal area by turning up the boost like another .0000000000001 bar :)

Well, it was a bit of a joke. But they make flanged button head screws with just as much area under the head as whats shown in the current pictures, so there's really no reason to not use them. Or, you could, gasp, use a washer.

I think it's odd to spend so much time/effort/money on a wing, and to use just random hardware on it. I'd assume that Steve just used whateve he had at in the shop at the time.

Did you end up using the electric power steering pump finally? If so, how did you wire it up?

Did you end up using the electric power steering pump finally? If so, how did you wire it up?

Power to power, ground to ground, digital switch to 12v switch.

Power to power, ground to ground, digital switch to 12v switch.

And I am guessing that this digital switch allows you to control the output of the pump manually? Or is it going to give you the same level of help regardless of vehicle speed or is it something you can control with ECU?

And I am guessing that this digital switch allows you to control the output of the pump manually? Or is it going to give you the same level of help regardless of vehicle speed or is it something you can control with ECU?

These Pumps are on or off, and have an idle mode when there is no steering input for an extended period of time. The digital switch is just that, its turns on the pump via the internal circuitry or "ecu" it has built on to it.

I popped on some body parts just for fun to see what it looks like, and its looking pretty badass. I still have to set the front ride height a bit, it needs to be dropped another 1" or so. Nice part about the E46 is the shock can be adjusted into the spindle, and then fine tuned and corner balanced via the threaded collars.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/e46today.jpg

Looks awesome man!!!
I Love the look of the rear wing with the rest of the car, very csl batmobile-esqe

Thanks, its definitely different! The pictures don't do it justice, as they make it look gargantuan! In person its modest compared to some of the 70" wings being used in club racing. It just an optical illusion since we're not used to seeing the end plates be more prominent than the wing element.

Steve looks awesome, keep going!

Looks sweet Steve, how long till she runs?

Looks sweet Steve, how long till she runs?

I'm trying for an event at the end of september...but with new job, its not looking good, but I'm trying. Spa Manifold comes this week, so I can finish the exhaust, get the turbo mocked up, and keep plugging away with the 100 or so misc jobs that need to be finished on the car.

FPR and coolant reservoir mounted.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/aerofpr.JPG

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/canton1.JPG

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/canton2.JPG

Fuel system is 99% done, just waiting for a back ordered fuel filter to come in. FPR is on, fuel rail is on, injectors are in, fuel rail brackets are made and on, and I just have to add a couple clamps to the hoses in the trans tunnel (I ran out). The hoses are all crimped/custom built, I just supplied measurements...amazingly all the measurements worked out :)

I also got the Spa Manifold in, and am going to get working on the exhaust soon.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-14-08/


http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-14-08/main/p8130004.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-14-08/main/p8130005.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-14-08/main/p8130001.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-14-08/main/p8130002.jpg

Is that a schrader valve on the rear shock tower? What's it for?

Jay

Thats the bolt for the upper shock mount...er, I mean its to fill up my air bag suspension :)

Doh!!!! :confused

Jay

How did you connect the Vanos oil supply line to the oil distribution block?

How did you connect the Vanos oil supply line to the oil distribution block?

OEM Vanos line bolts upto the block.

Quick update, I should be able to finish the exhaust tomorrow, just fitting in one last piece, and then I have to weld everything up. The wastegate dump tube to tie into the exhaust will be tricky, there is not much room.

Exhaust is done, just need to figure out the wastegate tie in.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-17-08/main/p8160001.htm

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-17-08/main/p8160001.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-17-08/main/p8160002.jpg

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-17-08/main/p8160001.jpg

You don't want the wastegate to dump into the atmosphere?

You don't want the wastegate to dump into the atmosphere?

I'm tying it back into the exhaust.

what are your plans in terms of aero on the nose?

what are your plans in terms of aero on the nose?

Nothing crazy, just a splitter and some dive planes to get the air over the front tires corners. I'll probably do some diffuser ducts into the wheel wells though, as I have already setup the stock fenders with extraction ducts. I am trying to duct the radiator out the hood, that should reduce drag quite a bit, and increase cooling efficiency. I just have to make sure it does not affect airflow to the wing.

Quick update from tonight. I started working on wastegate piping design, prepared the turbo housing, and I got the hydraulic release bearing working...just needed a good bleed. But the pedal travel is way too far, so I'll have to bump the MC size up.

Quick update: I got my RacingShields in from Evosport on Friday, and started to work on them today.

I got the front fully trimmed, and installed, just need to grab some paint tomorrow. For some reason the plastic paint I used for the side windows is not working on these...trying to figure out how to get it to stick, might have to get the special plastic primer. I also have to make the inner support, but its pretty damn rigid by itself, but its cheap insurance.

The rear is trimmed, and I'll mount it tomorrow, and make the two retaining straps. Will have to paint that as well.

Steve,

Use FLAT black, not gloss. That might be your problem.

Also, the rules dictate 2 inner supports, so definitely do it!

thanks
brad

Steve,

Use FLAT black, not gloss. That might be your problem.

Also, the rules dictate 2 inner supports, so definitely do it!

thanks
brad

I got it to stick. I just had to sand off the coating, it was pretty thick. But I now know the coating works very well :)

Windows: Check. Pics Tomorrow.

Onto the next tricky project: Wastegate plumbing. This might take a night or two.

If the fit is about like the E36, I'd try placing the wastegate by the control arm bushing or slightly in front. Route the pipe down between the firewall and the motor/downpipe. Its a tight squeeze but it works, and I think you have some extra clearance than a stock car.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/3407/dscn0487km3.jpg

I'm putting it right at the bottom of the picture. Factory subframe brace is still being used, so I have to clear it. My pipe should look like yours though.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/8-17-08/main/p8160002.jpg

Just have to drill the vent holes on the rear window, then on to Wastegate...

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/frontlexan.JPG

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/rearlexan.JPG

Steve,

Just make sure you follow the rules (Section Mod/10/D/3):

Windshields may be replaced with polycarbonate of minimum 1/8” thickness. Front and rear windshield retaining clips or straps are required for non-glass windshields. A minimum of four exterior retaining clips (two top and two bottom) or two exterior retaining straps and two interior windshield supporting bars are required. If an edge of a polycarbonate windshield is not accessible for measurement, a 1/8” diameter inspection hole must be drilled near a bottom corner of polycarbonate windshields to allow confirmation of thickness.

So you need to do one of these to the front:

A minimum of four exterior retaining clips (two top and two bottom)

OR

two exterior retaining straps and two interior windshield supporting bars are required

I see you have one interior support and no clips.

I realize that many do not follow these rules and some tech inspectors do not enforce. But that is no excuse not to follow them. This is a SAFETY based rule and should be complied with.

thanks
brad

Oh, I should have mentioned, the 4 retaining clips are not installed yet. Thanks for your concern.

PERFECT! you are good to go then.

Now that I got your approval i'm good to go :stickoutt

It's too bad my wife doesn't see it that way! lol

It's too bad my wife doesn't see it that way! lol


Ha, good thing i'm 25/single then...this E46 would have never happened :alright

looks good