BMW E85/86 Z4 M Coupe : UUC EVO 3 Short Shifter Installation

The UUC shifter comes packaged with all the pieces needed to install their Evo 3 short shifter (and some parts you don’t need that are crossed out in the pic below- the 6 speed transmission in the MZ4 and some other models has a dual pin mount at the front of the shifter carrier and these included parts not needed are for the single pin carriers):

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image002.jpg

NOTE: The following is provided for information only and any use of this information by you is at your own risk- the information here is designed to supplement the UUC supplied instructions so read those carefully before proceeding:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/pdf/shifter_install.pdf

The first thing I did was to remove the shift knob, the shift boot, and the foam insert around the shifter:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image004.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image006.jpg

The rubber boot can be carefully removed as well:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image008.jpg

After exhaust system removal (see guide HERE (http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4ExhaustRR.htm)), the heat shield will need to be removed to access the lower part of the shifter:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image010.jpg

The shifter is held to the shift rod with a C-Clip, it can be removed with the help of a screwdriver:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image012.jpg

The shifter is also held to the carrier with a plastic collar, it needs to be rotated clockwise to release from the carrier slots it locks into. This plastic collar can be turned by inserting needle nose pliers or a small standard screwdriver into the slots located around the perimeter of the collar (arrows show three of many). I was able to get the collar turned easily with a small flathead screwdriver but found the casting of my carrier seemed to allow installation at the factory but not removal- easily fixed with a Dremel/drill bit (if you go this route be careful to only Dremel the plastic tabs to the left and right of the carrier and not the carrier aluminum itself):

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image014.jpg


The carrier does NOT need to be removed but I removed mine to take some pics- it only took me about five minutes to release the clips on both sides with a screwdriver, push the mount up and forward to release the rear pin, and carefully maneuver the carrier out around the driveshaft and transmission (I didn’t have to drop the transmission to do this):

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image016.jpg

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image018.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image020.jpg

Next the white ring bushing is placed in the carrier with the lip and cup towards the top, pics with the carrier removed shown for clarity:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image022.jpg

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image024.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image026.jpg

The pivot height adapter is installed next, it should sit flush with the plastic bushing installed prior and the screw holes should line up with the slots in the carrier. The supplied LocTite should be used in the screw holes before inserting into the carrier. Screws are installed loosely and then tightened alternating sides. Pics shown with carrier removed for clarity. (HINT: I found the screw holes a pain to access with the carrier installed in the car and the trans would most likely require some drop for the assembly to be done with the carrier removed and then reinstalled. My solution was to remove the carrier front clips so that it could be tilted to the side of the transmission allowing one side to be easily accessed from the bottom and the other side to be easily accessed from the top):

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image028.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image030.jpg

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image032.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image034.jpg

Supplied grease is then applied to shift ball, second pic shows order of components for installation into carrier:

http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image036.jpg http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image038.jpg

To install shifter in carrier, snap ring pliers are used to insert snap ring into adapter after shifter is placed in carrier:
http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image040.jpg
Shifter is then connected to shift rod by placing bearing liners into bearing on either side, sliding rod pin through bearing, installing yellow plastic washer, and finally installing the C-Clip:
http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image042.jpg
http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image044.jpg
Heat shield and exhaust components are reinstalled and shifter rubber boot, foam, shifter leather boot, and knob are reinstalled. When reinstalling the rubber boot, the lower seal for the smaller ring on the carrier around the shifter can be done by feel through the rubber boot after the larger lip has been press fit into the console body hole.
http://www.billswebspace.com/MZ4UUCEvo3DIY_files/image046.jpg

Hi, nice photos you posted and very helpfull but there are 2 iron rings and i dont see you used it also, can u tell me please what they are for??

Those two pieces are the bearing liners that are inserted into the bearing on either side prior to connecting shifter to shift rod, see pics at end of DIY.