Well a couple of weeks ago I was under the impression that my 540i was cooked.

I had a severe overheat that also included rod knock.

After two weeks of diagnostic work and one replaced sensor the shop says its ready for pickup.

There is no rod knock now and I am asking them to place it on the Dyno to see actual performance numbers.

The shop that corrected / diagnosed my overheat is a very reputable facility in South Florida.

With their approval and statement that ever is repaired correctly and I should not worry.

At least I get a warranty...is there other things I should keep an eye out for.

TIA

Congatulations.:)

You are fortunate. Engine replacement is expensive.
I'm glad it worked out for you. Keep us posted on the dyno results and your impressions after driving it.

you should be fine if they are confident and reputable.

Well a couple of weeks ago I was under the impression that my 540i was cooked.

I had a severe overheat that also included rod knock.

After two weeks of diagnostic work and one replaced sensor the shop says its ready for pickup.

There is no rod knock now and I am asking them to place it on the Dyno to see actual performance numbers.

The shop that corrected / diagnosed my overheat is a very reputable facility in South Florida.

With their approval and statement that ever is repaired correctly and I should not worry.

At least I get a warranty...is there other things I should keep an eye out for.

TIA

Just make sure you didn't blow a head gasket which would show up as coolant in the oil (milky color).

Rod knock is not an expected result of an overheating condition as a general rule. It is normally the result of excess wear or bearing failure, normally proceeded by lower than normal Oil pressure. I suspect you were hearing something else. Rod knock is a VERY distinctive sound that is hard to confuse with anything else, once you have actually heard it. I suspect that you are fine, and with them warranting the work you have no concerns. Don't annoy them too much with unnecessary demands. They are the experts but if you are a prick you may not get the same level of service in the future.

Rod knock is not an expected result of an overheating condition as a general rule. It is normally the result of excess wear or bearing failure, normally proceeded by lower than normal Oil pressure. I suspect you were hearing something else. Rod knock is a VERY distinctive sound that is hard to confuse with anything else, once you have actually heard it. I suspect that you are fine, and with them warranting the work you have no concerns. Don't annoy them too much with unnecessary demands. They are the experts but if you are a prick you may not get the same level of service in the future.

Let me second that. Overheating, even if you drove untill the engine seized, woud not cause a rod knock. The crank and rod journals are too isolated from the heat and too well lubricated. You likely were hearing some nasty detonation from the heat.

You say the shop replaced a sensor. Do you know which one it was?

You say the shop replaced a sensor. Do you know which one it was?

I'm betting it was a knock sensor...:D

There is no rod knock now and I am asking them to place it on the Dyno to see actual performance numbers.



What on earth would this tell you? The performance will not be decreased its even possible that if you had loose rod bearings it might squeak out a tiny bit more HP than with normal bearings(decreased drag on the Oil pump due to lower oil pressure).

On reflection I would have to wonder how you determined that you had a rod knock in the first place.

Could you provide a little detail on what type of work they did to the car. It should all be detailed out on your receipt.

I'm betting it was a knock sensor...:D

:lol

Congatulations.:)

You are fortunate. Engine replacement is expensive.
I'm glad it worked out for you. Keep us posted on the dyno results and your impressions after driving it.

Two months later and over 4500 miles, car is running as good as it was before the overheat.

I am dealing with a non-cooperative Outdoor Temperature Sensor.

I finally got around to changing the original plugs (from 10/02 Build Date)