I've had a 740iL and I'm considering an eight series car. I'd love some advice before purchasing. I like the 7 series but I'm intrigued by the 8 series esp the power and I just love the looks.

What kinds of problems should I look for and what general advice do you guys and girls have for me?

read up here: www.e31faq.com (http://www.e31faq.com) . It has a Pre-buying Guide/Checklist, as well as some pointers on what to look out for. Mileage isn't as important if you have a great set of service records - these engines will last almost forever given good maintenance.

TxGR8White's signature is appropriate when it comes to E31.


Great car though. Worth every damn penny I've dumped into her. I smile every damn time I drive.

Cheers

Jobberone,
I'm currently doing a survey of a friends car (who isn't mechanical or inclined to be) that he'd like to sell.
It's an 97 850CI
From what I've learned from this forum, they are great cars, but are quite complex, and require attention, good service (if you're anal like Me), and this forum to keep you properly informed.

So do your home work, and keep looking......from what I've read the best selling season is coming up as it warms up, but the guys on this forum are quite knowledgeable about what's out there now, and it may be a good time to find a good buy.....

If you're not someone who has the mechanical skills, tools and facilties to do your own work, then make sure you find a reputable shop that can help....(take your money:eek:) before you you invest.

My project will take another 2-3 months to complete, and I hope to have the car in the best shape I can when it's time to market it. Not saying it bad now, but there are some issues that bother me, and I want to make sure it's solid when it's sold.
Lets face it, it's a 10 year old car and no longer a virgin, with 104k on the odometer.

Take the advise here, and do you home work...

regards
wess

Actually it's not a car to be scared of, It's so much better if you can drive it before you buy, It want hide many problems that way! If you purchase a 840 Jobberone, You will experience pretty much the same, Except for looks, Compliments, Wows, People starring, People following you and questions!!!--)

:lol

Without a doubt,
Driving the car is a must,
If you have that handy form of what to look for, and able to review the records....also a must.
I know in the trip home with this car I'm working on It was approx. a 90 mile trip on and off freeways, so I had a mental list of what I experienced on the trip and was able to write them down when I got it home research my list.....but remembering that I'm not the buyer, just the free labor who wants to make this project productive and a first class job.

I've read on this forum, guys who were worried they were to anal, who actually took the wheels off the car to clean them......oh nooo....!
I've had the wheels off twice already......first to inspect them and the wells etc, and second time to detail.....expect they will be off again when I do final detail of the car to make sure the wells, brakes etc are pristine....

And yes they are quite beautiful cars....

Actually it's not a car to be scared of, It's so much better if you can drive it before you buy, It want hide many problems that way! If you purchase a 840 Jobberone, You will experience pretty much the same, Except for looks, Compliments, Wows, People starring, People following you and questions!!!--)

...try this:

850-Specific Pre-Purchase Inspection Items
This list is adopted from an excellent post by Jim Surdick to the Bimmer.Org e31 Forum.
Mechanical

Wobble in steering when accelerating or decelerating--can be unbalanced tires, warped rotors, bent wheels, loose suspension parts.
Surging at idle, rough idle--leaking manifold gaskets, DK motor fault, faulty fuel pressure reg., leak in air cleaner assembly, air temp sensor, etc.
Gasoline smell from engine compartment--check for leaking charcoal canister, fuel lines, leaking injectors.
Jam on the brakes fast and hard.--if real hard pedal then normal pedal travel --possible nitrogen bomb, pressure solenoid or vacuum problem.
Check tire wear--gives a great indication of front suspension problems (assumes SOME tire wear).
Open sunroof in both positions (up and back).
Operate all windows, steering wheel, and seat positions--especially seat base up and down travel (cables tend to slip causing seat to twist). Right side mirror should tilt down when reverse is selected and mirror adjustment selector is set to left.
Check on-board computer for bad pixels (about $350 plus labor). Check radio and CD player (bring 6 CD's if it has a changer to check all).
Check the oil--see if it is at least somewhat clean and proper level.
Try a BMW dealer with the VIN number to attempt to get service records on the car (only works if they serviced it at BMW dealerships).
Carfax to see owner history (be careful--some information may be incorrect--mine was)
Crinkling or "tinking" sound when car first takes off in reverse or forward--needs new BMW alternative to U-joints on the drive shaft.
Rattling from front end when going over bumps--bad bushings and/or needs new struts (check bushings first!)
Check for leaks in windshield washer bottle (is it holding water?)
Check operation of all lights, headlights should not move in their shrouds.
Check for loose headlight assemblies--a common problem.
Check air conditioning and heating--turn blower on full, low airflow indicates a need for new micro filter and implies poor maintenance.
Check for hard steering and squealing noise if wheel turned far right (check hydraulic fluid level )
Be sure to check under car and look at exhaust system from engine all the way back to tail-pipes for rust-contact on body, etc.
If high mileage, have pressure and leak down tests performed to assure valves and piston rings are sealing correctly.
Cosmetic

Check rubber window gasket--tears easily where rear window seats against upper foremost point of window seal-- expensive to fix (about $185 per side plus labor).
Check for loose vinyl or leather trim (seems to be a common problem in all BMW's). Rear panels beneath windows may become delaminated at edges. Coin box on driver's side should be in working order.
Check for overspray of paint on any gaskets or rubber contact points in hood or trunk area (will show if has been re-painted)
Burn marks or felt repair on headliner, pillar covers, felt window liner, etc.
If a 6 speed, 2nd gear can be a little notchy until warm (but you can use this to "show" the seller to reduce the price--as well as pulling the knob up and off will take off the knob and boot! Makes it look like the car is falling apart, but it is actually that way normally?!). At higher mileage, throwout bearing will make a "scraping" sound while idling; place car in neutral while running and depress clutch with window open to detect.
Check for even the tiniest point of rust ANYWHERE on the car and under the car. You should not find any rust on the body ANYWHERE. However, the exhaust is prone to rusting. Normal.
Brown discoloration on engine manifolds, DK motors, etc. is normal (caused by cosmoline factory protective coating; can be removed).
Paint condition.
Door dings
Rock chips on front of car--two edged sword. Ugly and expensive to repair but actually indicates more highway mileage, which in my book is a GOOD thing mechanically.