What have you M20 and M30 drivers found to be the best 1-2 and 2-3 RPM? I find that my unloved M20 pulls best up to about 5600 for a 1-2 while the 3.2L m30 pulls strongly up to about 4200 and then torque fades out.

My car rips over 3500rpm. I let the autobox shift for me at 5900rpm. Pulls WAY harder at higher rpm, starts to run out at around 5200 or so, but running it all the way out puts me higher up on the tach after the shift.

My car rips over 3500rpm. I let the autobox shift for me at 5900rpm. Pulls WAY harder at higher rpm, starts to run out at around 5200 or so, but running it all the way out puts me higher up on the tach after the shift.


It also sounds WAY WAY more awesome at those higher revs too.

In the M30 it really seems to come to life above 3400-3500 rpm like binjammin said. I'm hoping to get the Miller MAF and have it pull harder lower down

I feel like the redline comes in too soon on the m30, right when I am starting to have some fun it is time to shift. :( What is the redline on the m30b35? 6100 rpm?

I think it's around 6100-6200 rpm. With my dinan chip i've had it as far as like 6700-6800rpm. I personally don't really like to take it that far though

Mine with an EAT chip, design III injectors, and a VERY slightly port-matched intake manifold pulls smoothly up to 5.5k or so, then it feels pretty flat up to 6300 or so. I usually shift between 5.5 and 6k when I'm really railing on it...seems pretty pointless to go beyond that.

The rocker arms on the M30 aren't the greatest for long-term high-rpm duty, so I'd recommend against spending a lot of time up there on the stock pieces anyway.

You guys gotta get behind an S38 as it gets to 4k and beyond:buttrock

i have a conforti engine chip and my car (94 540iA) also seems to shift way too soon. i have the 'manual' button, and when i use that, i get about 6600 rpms or so (thank you, conforti chip), but id rather not hit the red line either. but lemme tell ya, about 3100-3300 rpm, you will get a neck snapping that you wont believe :)

Even with the MAF, mine seemed to run out of breath after 5500. However, the swapped 3.91LSD cured a lot of that.

Hmmm that's ok with me since I don't really like revving my car out too high. when you're going hard do you shift at 5500rpm or go higher to be at a higher rpm in the next gear, clevertd? With the Miller MAF is it definitely faster than before or with any chip? Thanks

Hmmm that's ok with me since I don't really like revving my car out too high. when you're going hard do you shift at 5500rpm or go higher to be at a higher rpm in the next gear, clevertd? With the Miller MAF is it definitely faster than before or with any chip? Thanks


Been debating that myself:
Miller MAF or Chip.

I'm leaning towards MAF.

I had an EAT chip in the car when I purchased it. I made two threads regarding it:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=652734
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=686399

It is most definitely faster and has better throttle response than with the EAT chip. If I'm going hard on the car, I rarely get it above 6k. There's just no more power to be had up there (check the second link for my dyno graph). Let me know if this post or those other two topics don't answer something and I'd be glad to answer it.

Shameless plug: I'm planning on putting the MAF up for sale soon, need to get the money to front the MS2 cost first though. For those wondering why I'm going MS and ditching the MAF, I'll be boosting my car.

I know you told me your MAF is the earliest edition. So how many wires would I have to splice for it to fit my car?

I know you told me your MAF is the earliest edition. So how many wires would I have to splice for it to fit my car?

The four at the AFM and one in the ECU wiring (wire 12 tee'd to wire 37), so 5 total.

I think I read the newer version only requires one splice.

i have a conforti engine chip and my car (94 540iA) also seems to shift way too soon. i have the 'manual' button, and when i use that, i get about 6600 rpms or so (thank you, conforti chip), but id rather not hit the red line either. but lemme tell ya, about 3100-3300 rpm, you will get a neck snapping that you wont believe :)

...im jealous

Do you know what you're looking to get for it, clevertd?

The rocker arms on the M30 aren't the greatest for long-term high-rpm duty, so I'd recommend against spending a lot of time up there on the stock pieces anyway.

How do you know that? I am not questioning your knowledge, I am just curious as to how you know. i.e. broken rocker arms, engine explosion etc.

How do you know that? I am not questioning your knowledge, I am just curious as to how you know. i.e. broken rocker arms, engine explosion etc.

Yep, broken rocker arms. Never had one myself, but I've seen numerous stories of 'built' track cars and other hi-po M30s with broken rocker arms from sustained high-rpm use. BMP even sells beefier arms for the M30/M10 (I think it was the M10 that uses the same arms..?) for just this reason.

If you break it, it just means its time to make it better. I'm not worried. :D

If you break it, it just means its time to make it better. I'm not worried. :D

Haha, hmmm good point :devillook If you break a rocker arm, will that cause any other engine damage?

Haha, hmmm good point :devillook If you break a rocker arm, will that cause any other engine damage?
I dunno, but I'd so try to find a s38 to throw in there. :redspot

haha as sick as it'd be to have an s38, i'd just buy an m5. those engines can go for like $7k

They sure can. And when they break...ohh god. But in all honesty...its the S38s that arent driven that turn to dust.

My car gets run when I do drive it, but it is always properly cared for and warmed up and cooled down. The S38 was built to be revved. Sitting under the power is stupid.