Anyone know of a garage lift?

Something on a budget?

I could of sworn a few years back I saw mini lifts for the garage that got your car about three feet up?

I wont lie Im nervous alot of the time being under the car even with four jacks and the lift as a 5th just in case "jack" especially when tugging on the underside........

Mods : I thought this would be the best section as most of the track guys probably have the best set of tools etc or knowledge of them.
THanks in advance

I know a few guys have posted their setups on here. How tall is your ceiling in your garage?

I installed a budget priced (cheap) 4 post lift in my garage. Unfortunately my garage has a 8 ft ceiling, so the cars never get much above 3 ft above the floor, but it has been wonderful. Got a rolling jack in the middle, I use to lift the car up off the ramp, then set the car on jackstands. Been able to work on much susp stuff this way. A 2 post lift gives more access to underside components, but the susp will always be hanging. I'm often working on chassis things with the susp loaded, yet the car is up in the air, that part is nice with a 4 post. My cost was less than $2k for lift , about $800 for the rolling jack. We installed ourselves over a weekend.

Oh, about the ceiling, many 4 post lifts have posts that are under 8 ft so the lift fits in a 8 ft ceiling garage. However, it seemed that it was somewhat difficult to find a 2 post lift with posts shorter than 8 ft.

Any clue where I can find these online etc?

and thanks redefined let me search and maybe that will just answer, I should of searched DOH! but no one from my experience here has talked about lifts, so I will look

Thanks guys.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=804831&highlight=mid+rise+lift

tons of web sites on this. use google.

Any clue where I can find these online etc?

and thanks redefined let me search and maybe that will just answer, I should of searched DOH! but no one from my experience here has talked about lifts, so I will look

Thanks guys.

Yeah I was just asking to see if you had a 8' or 12' garage height. If you had the 12' you could do the 2 post but ebay has a bunch of good 6' pole 4 posts.

I think Ill have to go with the portable www.ezcarlift.com
its a shame its so $$ but for my purposes I assume it will do, although it does look like there may be some restrictions with its design I'm not so sure...

What about something like this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Car-Auto-Lift-Four-Post-Portable-7000-lb-Parking-Garage_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63697QQihZ016QQi temZ260200897318QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

yeah, i don't get the price on those. same or more than a full two post lift...without even a motor. if they cut the price in half they would sell like hotcakes.

well my garage space isnt that good
and its my parents house, but he said he wouldnt mind the ez lift....I need to find something like that

random question.....its hard to get my car on race ramps that I have since its lowered.....what do I do???

We're getting one in a couple months. Decided on a 4 post. As much as I see 2 posts doing fine, I'd prefer the more stable 4 post.

random question.....its hard to get my car on race ramps that I have since its lowered.....what do I do???

Try using regular jack and put each corner of the car onto a piece of 2x10 wood. Hopefully that will get you enough clearance to slide the ezlift under your car. If not, stack up two pieces of 2x10.

How much clearance does your car have? I assume much less than 4 inches?

Dont waste your money. Put the jack stands in the proper location and you will be fine.

I built some small jack plates that insert into the factory jack spots. I used some stainless steel and machined them down to the proper size. I jack up from the jack pods and my jack stands already have a half circle in them which worked perfect for my "jack shafts"

If i knew everyones jack stands were the same as mine, i would sell these things. It makes life so easy and its safer.

I think i saw something similar that Pelican parts sales. They use a shaft with a plate welded to it, in order for you to jack the car up easier

Dont waste your money. Put the jack stands in the proper location and you will be fine.



The EZ lift is a bunch of $$. You can buy a Rotary lift new (2 post) for about $3800. You need tall ceilings to make it work though. I agree with the above. I built a whole car on these:

http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-3000NFP.html

They are $100 each, but flat topped and very stable. Use Hockey pucks on them and they are very safe. That lift you are looking at (as well as a 4 post ) will block areas where you want to work. The jack stand solution will give you the most access to the bottom of the car.

I work alone in my garage and always try to have my cell on me just in case...

Chris

We're getting one in a couple months. Decided on a 4 post. As much as I see 2 posts doing fine, I'd prefer the more stable 4 post.

I have both and the 2 post is much more useful. The 4 post is nice to drive up on and change the oil etc. and you can store a car on it and under it, but the 2 post is the one I really use. Just food for thought.

Chris

I've heard good things about these:

http://www.kwiklift.com/

I have both and the 2 post is much more useful. The 4 post is nice to drive up on and change the oil etc. and you can store a car on it and under it, but the 2 post is the one I really use. Just food for thought.

Chris

That's a big part of why I need the 4 post, gotta park one car under it and store the other on it

That's a big part of why I need the 4 post, gotta park one car under it and store the other on it

When you guys do this I am guessing you have enough room for the garage door to clear the top car? My garage door would destroy the upper car :lol

I've heard good things about these:

http://www.kwiklift.com/

i don't get the utility of these or 4-posters. the vast majority of work is suspension/brake stuff which requires the wheels to be off. with roll on lifts you jack it up with the lift, then you have to jack it up again off the lift and use jackstands anyway to get the wheels off. then the roll on platforms are in the way of working on the car. :confused

When you guys do this I am guessing you have enough room for the garage door to clear the top car? My garage door would destroy the upper car :lol

Yep, I'm keeping it at my parents new house cause I just have a parking lot where my apt. is. I'll move it when I get a garage. They don't mind, but they made sure it will fit when they move in. Turns their 3 car garage into a 4 car garage.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=841664&highlight=garage


Lot's of good info in here too.

Don

wow thats a sick thread thanks alot dcvee! you track addict you

I have a 4 post but it was mainly purchased to store 2 vintage cars in one garage bay. It's useful for things like oil changes, transmissions, engine work etc but a 2 post lift is more useful.

You need some height to your garage to make either one of any real use. I use jackstands whever I am working on the brakes or dropping either the front or rear subframes. It really isn't that big of a deal.

well my garage space isnt that good
and its my parents house, but he said he wouldnt mind the ez lift....I need to find something like that
A lift is a significant garage investment. Its both costly to buy, to have delivered, to have it moved into place/bolted down/installed, and to have it wired. The costs you see on eBay are just the beginning! Most of them are too heavy to unload/move without a forklift.

If you are just crashing with the 'rents you could probably be better off investing in much more useful tools that you can take with you to your next house...

Do you have an air compressor? 60+ gallons, oil bath lubricated, 2-3 stages and 220V type of air ($400-800), not the cheap buzz bombs from Sears.
Do you have a large rolling toolbox? 40" wide, 5' tall? Costco & Sams have some good stainless steel options for great prices ($500-600), otherwise its Sears ($1000+) or SnapOn/Matco/Etc ($2500+).
Do you have a fairly complete hand tool set? Air tool set? Enough tools that are valued about what a good running E36 would be.
Do you have 2 good floor jacks already? Not cheap import stuff, I mean real floor jacks (http://www.vorshlag.com/tech_jacks1.php) that cost $300-400 each and never let you down.

Once you've fulfilled those other shop needs, and once you've got a place all your own (with a 12'6" or taller ceiling if you want a "real" lift), then think about getting a lift. Even the little scissor lifts are an investment.

A lift is a significant garage investment. Its both costly to buy, to have delivered, to have it moved into place/bolted down/installed, and to have it wired. The costs you see on eBay are just the beginning! Most of them are too heavy to unload/move without a forklift.

If you are just crashing with the 'rents you could probably be better off investing in much more useful tools that you can take with you to your next house...
Do you have an air compressor? 60+ gallons, oil bath lubricated, 2-3 stages and 220V type of air ($400-800), not the cheap buzz bombs from Sears.
Do you have a large rolling toolbox? 40" wide, 5' tall? Costco & Sams have some good stainless steel options for great prices ($500-600), otherwise its Sears ($1000+) or SnapOn/Matco/Etc ($2500+).
Do you have a fairly complete hand tool set? Air tool set? Enough tools that are valued about what a good running E36 would be.
Do you have 2 good floor jacks already? Not cheap import stuff, I mean real floor jacks that cost $300-400 each and never let you down.Once you've fulfilled those other shop needs, and once you've got a place all your own (with a 12'6" or taller ceiling if you want a "real" lift), then think about getting a lift. Even the little scissor lifts are an investment.

Wow thanks for the input.....thats makes alot more sense now that I think of it that way....

One question....Sears sells huge rolling tool boxes for like $300-$600 they seem to be useful, and would accommodate all the tools I would need....like 14 drawer tool boxes?

Im just getting into "ultimate garage" set ups

Wow thanks for the input.....thats makes alot more sense now that I think of it that way....

One question....Sears sells huge rolling tool boxes for like $300-$600 they seem to be useful, and would accommodate all the tools I would need....like 14 drawer tool boxes?

Im just getting into "ultimate garage" set ups
Yea, tool box is the first big purchase. Buy it right the first time and you won't "upgrade it" later. I wrote an article on this somewhere... can't find it. Overview:

If you get a toolbox make sure it has BALL BEARING SLIDES on all drawers. It needs to last you 20-30 years, and the cheap sliders will drive you nuts inside of a week. The casters need to be decent, too.
Get the biggest "roller" bottom box you can afford. Then add 25% to your budget. :D Remember, you could have this toolbox until retirement age!
As finances allow, get a matching upper box that goes with the roller bottom. 36-40" width should be your starting point. The 50"+ units are better, but get harder to transport if you move a lot (tip: UNLOAD it completely before attempting to move a BIG toolbox -or- get a lift gate loading ramp on a moving truck). If you can only afford the top box first, then do that and get the matching roller bottom later. Don't skimp and be patient. I waited 9 months for the right box to go on sale and coincide with a Craftsman Club sale to save hundreds of dollars on my toolbox.
Avoid most no-name tool boxes, available at big-box Home Improvement stores. Most of the imported boxes are junk. Single wall steel, terrible slides, weak construction, thin gauge steel, poor finish. Sears is the best value for a name brand, quality box, but you have to get into their "professional" line to get a good product (roller bearings). They stock these in most stores.
Exception: Costco and Sams both sell a Chinese made, all stainless steel, roller bearing slide drawer top+bottom unit toolbox priced around $600-700. Its not "ginormous" but its pretty big and adequate for a hard core hobbyist mechanic. I've seen die hard domestic tool box owners switch to these and really like them. Sears makes one now but its $900+.
Conveyor belt plastic sheeting makes great tool box drawer liners. Its exactly what SnapOn sells for their boxes, pre-cut to size, but with a huge mark-up. This makes for a more quiet box (no tool-to-steel clanging!) and keeps the finish inside the drawers pristine.
The best method of organization I've found is by using magnetic drawer labels (I bought a full set from Sears for $11 - but these won't work on a stainless steel box, which is not magnetic). These things save me from having to remember where every tool goes and are also great for "Guests" that come by to help: "Where does this wrench go?" "In the drawer marked 'wrenches', you dolt..."

Your toolbox is the first thing your car buddies will notice when they enter your workspace... An organized, uncrowded, quality tool box says a lot about you, and makes working on cars more enjoyable when you can get to your tools quickly! :)

Yea, tool box is the first big purchase. Buy it right the first time and you won't "upgrade it" later. I wrote an article on this somewhere... can't find it. Overview:
If you get a toolbox make sure it has BALL BEARING SLIDES on all drawers. It needs to last you 20-30 years, and the cheap sliders will drive you nuts inside of a week. The casters need to be decent, too.
Get the biggest "roller" bottom box you can afford. Then add 25% to your budget. :D Remember, you could have this toolbox until retirement age!
As finances allow, get a matching upper box that goes with the roller bottom. 36-40" width should be your starting point. The 50"+ units are better, but get harder to transport if you move a lot (tip: UNLOAD it completely before attempting to move a BIG toolbox -or- get a lift gate loading ramp on a moving truck). If you can only afford the top box first, then do that and get the matching roller bottom later. Don't skimp and be patient. I waited 9 months for the right box to go on sale and coincide with a Craftsman Club sale to save hundreds of dollars on my toolbox.
Avoid most no-name tool boxes, available at big-box Home Improvement stores. Most of the imported boxes are junk. Single wall steel, terrible slides, weak construction, thin gauge steel, poor finish. Sears is the best value for a name brand, quality box, but you have to get into their "professional" line to get a good product (roller bearings). They stock these in most stores.
Exception: Costco and Sams both sell a Chinese made, all stainless steel, roller bearing slide drawer top+bottom unit toolbox priced around $600-700. Its not "ginormous" but its pretty big and adequate for a hard core hobbyist mechanic. I've seen die hard domestic tool box owners switch to these and really like them. Sears makes one now but its $900+.
Conveyor belt plastic sheeting makes great tool box drawer liners. Its exactly what SnapOn sells for their boxes, pre-cut to size, but with a huge mark-up. This makes for a more quiet box (no tool-to-steel clanging!) and keeps the finish inside the drawers pristine.
The best method of organization I've found is by using magnetic drawer labels (I bought a full set from Sears for $11 - but these won't work on a stainless steel box, which is not magnetic). These things save me from having to remember where every tool goes and are also great for "Guests" that come by to help: "Where does this wrench go?" "In the drawer marked 'wrenches', you dolt..."Your toolbox is the first thing your car buddies will notice when they enter your workspace... An organized, uncrowded, quality tool box says a lot about you, and makes working on cars more enjoyable when you can get to your tools quickly! :)

Wow such a help, if you could possibly pm Me some toolbox sets for $1500 lets say? That would be great so I can get idea on what to look for....Ive surfed the internet for them before, and just did not know which specs to look for....also as for tools I saw sears had huge tool sets for around $500-$1500....You suggest that? Or piecing them seperately??

Thanks alot fair, youve been great help.

I'd suggest finding a snap on or mac truck and buying a used one. Pro mechanics upgrade all the time and sell their old boxes back to the truck for cheap. I know our snapon guy has a warehouse full of used boxes.

Wow such a help, if you could possibly pm Me some toolbox sets for $1500 lets say? That would be great so I can get idea on what to look for....Ive surfed the internet for them before, and just did not know which specs to look for....also as for tools I saw sears had huge tool sets for around $500-$1500....You suggest that? Or piecing them seperately??

Thanks alot fair, youve been great help.
Honestly, just go to Sears and test drive what they have. The good boxes will be obvious... open/close the drawers and you will "know what I mean". :D The most expensive boxes are usually overkill for hobbyists, but the mid-line roller boxes tend to be a good buy. Don't forget Costco/Sams... I am not one to push Chinese made tools but these stainless boxes are the exception.

Some mechanics are tool snobs when it comes to hand tools and only go for the high end tools you buy off a truck. This is great for a professional that has that truck coming by, week in and week out (and a 2nd mortgage to pay them!), but for a hobbyist mechanic, Sears is the way to go. Lifetime warranty replacements are only a short drive away and you don't end up chasing tool trucks down the highway trying to get a replacement socket.

Yes, start with a "big tool set" from Sears (Craftsman only - not the new import junk they also sell!) in the $150-200 range. Make sure it doesn't have some stupid tools you would never use and/or have good copies of already. That tends to get you the best pricing on hand tools - KITS. For BMW work concentrate on the metric tools - you can't buy a toolset from them that DOESN'T have some SAE bits in it, of course (I've tried). If you can spring for the Sears Professional stuff it really is nicer, as good as most SnapOn level stuff but still a lot less $$$. The Professional wrenches, the ratcheting wrenches, and Pro stubby wrenches... these are great hand tools. They have good ratchets and cheaper ratchets. Most of the big tool kits come with their standard stuff, but if you can find a medium sized tool kit with their Pro tools it will get you started.

Also, ask a Sears associate. Look for the older guys working there, they might actually have some tool experience. :)

Invariably the big tool kits don't "fill out" the sockets/wrenches/assortments completely, and you end up piece-buying the "end pieces". I spent $100 in Sears the other day and only got about 15 individual sockets (buying them by the piece is the most expensive way to get them), but it filled out my Hansen socket trays better than any kit they could ever sell. That made me strangely happy - yet I may never use some of these! :D (those socket trays = better than anything else I've used. Sears has them, as do other sources)

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/558549_lg.jpg

The cheap Craftsman screwdrivers are so inferior to the Pro Craftsman stuff. I've bought them all twice... started with the regular and upgrade to Pro. If they don't have big tool kits with Pro parts you might be better off just buying the various assortments of Pro wrenches, ratchets, then the laser etched sockets (get 6 point sockets, not 12) - this way you can ignore the SAE inch sizes completely, if you never plan on working on older domestic cars (1982 and older). For Bimmers, don't forget to get some E-Torx sockets (Lisle has them in many auto parts stores), and there are some bigger sockets (22mm, 30mm) that can come in handy on certain jobs. You'll know when you don't have them. :D

You'll spend 10 years filling up that toolbox - don't rush it. Its actually fun when you take your time and get the better tools instead of fighting with the cheap stuff. :) I'm sure the guys buying high end SnapOn feel the same way, but that's just never proven cost effective to me over Craftsman Pro hand tools. I have a handful of SnapOn and Matco tools, but they were all hand-me-downs. Great stuff.

I'd suggest finding a snap on or mac truck and buying a used one. Pro mechanics upgrade all the time and sell their old boxes back to the truck for cheap. I know our snapon guy has a warehouse full of used boxes.
Yea, if the price is comparable to a like sized Craftsman Pro box - you'd need to get a very good deal... but this might be the way to go.

Having a big, clean, SnapOn roller toolbox in your garage is akin to having a 70" Mitsubishi Medallion Flat Screen in the living room, to car geeks like us. :cool

I dont get what these trucks are.....sounds like trucks driving around with used high quality tool sets? Where do I find these guys.......

Thanks alot again guys.....Fair......We will be in touch. :D

Well, the truck guys are not picky about brands... they trade in craftsman and old stuff and cheap stuff, so even if you go to a snap on truck, they might have a decent selection of used stuff.

Avoid most no-name tool boxes, available at big-box Home Improvement stores. Most of the imported boxes are junk. Single wall steel, terrible slides, weak construction, thin gauge steel, poor finish. Sears is the best value for a name brand, quality box, but you have to get into their "professional" line to get a good product (roller bearings). They stock these in most stores.


i believe Lowe's KOBALT brand and most of the Sears CRAFSTMAN line are made by the same company. the tool boxes are identical.

What is everyone's opinion about these lifts?
http://www.asedeals.com/low_rise_lifts.html

I'm considering the low-rise for $1390 delivered.

Wow that one actually looks pretty good, especially for the price, But I'm going for tools like Mr. Fair suggested, after that I will be back for the lift offfff

There are used lifts out there, too...

There are used lifts out there, too...
I bought a 2 year old 9k asymmetrical Rotary for ~1800 from a Rotary dealer. The lift was in a Honda dealership that decided to upgrade buildings. It's in great condition and was a great price.

^^ wow you guys really know how to source stuff outt huh?

Back to the OP's question. I have an ez-carlift. It works very nicely and moves/stores easily around the garage. Also, it doesn't need 220 service, and is easily moved form one location to another - even taken to the track. I got it ~$500 cheaper due to a sale. The price may be a bit high, but for me it seems to be a very workable solution.

Back to the OP's question. I have an ez-carlift. It works very nicely and moves/stores easily around the garage. Also, it doesn't need 220 service, and is easily moved form one location to another - even taken to the track. I got it ~$500 cheaper due to a sale. The price may be a bit high, but for me it seems to be a very workable solution.

What about areas, that are blocked off by it? What areas are those? I heard anything but 2 post lifts that just go where the under pads are , are prone to blocking certain areas for work for ex. suspension etc...or removing your wheels...

Having done work under a car with it on; blocks, jackstands, a low rise lift, an open center trailer, and a two post lift, I'd say to go with a two post lift if at all possible. Even if you don't have the garage height to lift the car all the way up, having unobstructed access to the wheels, suspension, and bottom of the car makes everything so much easier.

W/respect to tool boxes, the Kobalt stainless steel box (sold through Lowes) is very good value for the money (~$600 for both pieces). It is a fairly decent size with ball bearing slides, heavy construction, and heavy duty casters.

^^ thank you

Ive come to conclusions for the "best"

Lift : two post (they even have some low ceilings ones)
Cons : expensive to install on top of already expensive prices

Tool Box : Thick steel, ball bearing slides, you want to be able to upgrade too
Cons : bye bye wallet


thanks alot guys!


oh I forgot

Tools: Dont go with regular tools, try to go with Pro sets, and when working on BMWs make sure the set is metric for most accurate fitment
Cons: Pricey
Pros: May be able to find used sets from trucks etc...

Correct me if I'm wrong guys

I know you arent really looking at the two post lifts for your situation right now. but as far as a lift goes that would be what your are really looking for.
because holy inexpensive lift !!!!!
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9-p/tp-xl-9oh.htm

That scissor lift looked great too, if you can spare the bucks , it could be useful in a smaller/lower garage .
maybe a similar one can found for cheaper.

but but you dont really need those unless your doing tons of work. and with outa fullsize garage to accomodate the lift and vehicle it will be tight anyway.

once you get used to it , getting your car up on stands doesnt take too long, with a good jack. or then try the ramps. I am lowerd a couple inches and i rolled up on ramps the other day, took like five mins to line up.
just get a couple nice pieces of 2x8(i just finally picked these up actually after using 2x4's for a while) and roll on them first.

If your worried about the car moving , pick up an extra set of stands, or ramps and put them under a suitable location. the car shouldnt move much anyhow. you can do just about all the work you need to on stands.


yeah if there were a dual scissor lift like that for about 1k that would rock .

good luck man

Thanks buddy

I had a Rotary Lift in my old home, finally sold that house, and had to decide on whether to move it to the new house which has a 2.5 car garage floor plan-wise..and 20+ foot high ceilings, and pre-wired for 220 at two places, and 6 inch (supposedly) thick floor. Seemed like a no brainer to bring it.

That lift was bought and installed in the "narrow" setting for narrow bays. It was really a PIA to rack an E36 race car due to the width, it had to be just so in order for the arms to get to the points at minimal extension. AND, my car is too low for the stock, unmodified arms to be used. Need ramps, or to jack it up.

But....

New garage has radiant heat. Fairly randomly spaced and running plastic lines that run off a steamer under the floor to warm the garage. Can't just randomly drill 5-7 inch holes in the floor and risk hitting a water line.

Moved the lift, placed in where I wanted it, and then had to pay a engineering survey company (Thermal imaging) to come and Map the floor. VERY cool process, and it works well. The camera is so sensitive that if you walked barefoot slowly on the floor, it can track the thermal image and show the foot prints! THAT is sensitive.

Guys came yesteday, drilled and installed the lift at the normal, wider setting than I originally had it, (had to lower it a bit to use existing cable). This will make it easier to rack, and I can always buy a new cable later, and re-raise it as needed.

All drilling successful, new width is great, (still too low a car).

BUT, just as I'm pumped and ready to plug into the 220 and lift the car up, it won't work. Some prior owner had opened up the 220 outlets, PULLED the fricken old 220 wires, and converted them back to 110.... at BOTH locations!!!!!!!

GRRRRRRRRRRR... to say I'm pissed is an understatement. Looks like I'm off to Home Depot to buy a long fish...and some wire..... arg. Time to learn a new skill..

Rant off....

Oh.... I love the Rotary, the safety features, quality and ease of use are worth a lot to me. I know I could have spent more elsewhere, but I don't want to risk my limb or neck or back anymore than necessary. Think twice before getting a narrow bay two poster, it may not be easy to rack the car.

Can't wait to get this up and running finally! Its been 9 months without a lfit now!

Alex.

I had a Rotary Lift in my old home, finally sold that house, and had to decide on whether to move it to the new house which has a 2.5 car garage floor plan-wise..and 20+ foot high ceilings, and pre-wired for 220 at two places, and 6 inch (supposedly) thick floor. Seemed like a no brainer to bring it.

That lift was bought and installed in the "narrow" setting for narrow bays. It was really a PIA to rack an E36 race car due to the width, it had to be just so in order for the arms to get to the points at minimal extension. AND, my car is too low for the stock, unmodified arms to be used. Need ramps, or to jack it up.

But....

New garage has radiant heat. Fairly randomly spaced and running plastic lines that run off a steamer under the floor to warm the garage. Can't just randomly drill 5-7 inch holes in the floor and risk hitting a water line.

Moved the lift, placed in where I wanted it, and then had to pay a engineering survey company (Thermal imaging) to come and Map the floor. VERY cool process, and it works well. The camera is so sensitive that if you walked barefoot slowly on the floor, it can track the thermal image and show the foot prints! THAT is sensitive.

Guys came yesteday, drilled and installed the lift at the normal, wider setting than I originally had it, (had to lower it a bit to use existing cable). This will make it easier to rack, and I can always buy a new cable later, and re-raise it as needed.

All drilling successful, new width is great, (still too low a car).

BUT, just as I'm pumped and ready to plug into the 220 and lift the car up, it won't work. Some prior owner had opened up the 220 outlets, PULLED the fricken old 220 wires, and converted them back to 110.... at BOTH locations!!!!!!!

GRRRRRRRRRRR... to say I'm pissed is an understatement. Looks like I'm off to Home Depot to buy a long fish...and some wire..... arg. Time to learn a new skill..

Rant off....

Oh.... I love the Rotary, the safety features, quality and ease of use are worth a lot to me. I know I could have spent more elsewhere, but I don't want to risk my limb or neck or back anymore than necessary. Think twice before getting a narrow bay two poster, it may not be easy to rack the car.

Can't wait to get this up and running finally! Its been 9 months without a lfit now!

Alex.

Glad to hear that you finally got the lift installed. The thermal imaging cam is something else.

Try using one of the existing wires as a pull, that is provided that you haven't already yanked them out...

Steve

The intermediate owner of the house pulled wires out....

I went out and bought a nylon 50 foot fish, and that accomplished two things for me. That, and I opened up all the outlet/switch boxes in the garage on the walls of interest....Was shocked to find that all the lights and all the sockets are off one breaker in the fuse box. That is bad planning... just imagine using a power tool, blowing the fuse and losing the lights with something heavy or sharp in your hands.

Was able to spot and find the main conduit from the fuse box to the first box in the garage, and there could see that there was one dead end box 4 feet away linked to it.... it was falsely marked 220, but easy to fish the lines out from the basement to that point, and then from there to the nearby box. Its not optimal, the box is over the work bench, and a distance from the wall where the lift post is, but it will be fine, in fact, YEA...its up and running.

The rest of the routing of conduit is really odd....but not that interesting. Suffice it to say, there is no route in the existing conduit to the wall I want, (despite its being just a few feet away from the box coming up from the basement...) that doesn't involve going up to the ceiling some 24 feet up, over and down the other with boxes in the ceiling that I can't of course get to......(G-d help me when the lights need to be changed) I"ll have to post a photo.


Alex.