View Full Version : removing idler arm?


romeox929
01-09-2008, 10:43 PM
^^ how do you do it? i have trouble with removing it with a pickle fork, wedging a screwdriver there because the drag link is not stationary. :help:help

Binjammin
01-09-2008, 11:21 PM
Loosen the nut on it, but don't take it all the way off. Take a big effing hammer, and smash the shite out of the center link where the idler bolts on, there's a tab you should be aiming for on the center link.

Yes, I'm serious, no, don't smash it like you're trying to break it, just hit that tab hard and the idler will pop free, then loosen the nut all the way. Leaving the nut on there protects threads from accidental loose swings of the hammer.

BTW, you should be swinging the hammer roughly down the center line of the center link, not perpendicular.

romeox929
01-10-2008, 12:14 AM
thanks! i knew putting a hammer down was due somewhere in this project. the tab your referring to is the one close to the center link's ball joint, where the arm sits?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/n/h/4.png

Binjammin
01-10-2008, 12:18 AM
Sorry, check that, after looking at that pic (which, btw, the link is no good, realoem no likey hotlink) I had it reversed in my mind, the tabs are on the idler arm. Smash them with hammer.


P.S. Be careful, put a piece of metal in the way or something of the boot on the center link, if you smash too hard, or are off with your aim and hit the boot, it will pinch the boot and cut a hole in it. Then you will cry.

ceedee
01-10-2008, 12:20 AM
Sorry, check that, after looking at that pic (which, btw, the link is no good, realoem no likey hotlink) I had it reversed in my mind, the tabs are on the idler arm. Smash them with hammer.



doesn't that hurt the bearings?

Binjammin
01-10-2008, 12:26 AM
NO bearings in suspension parts, they're pretty much cup and ball, machined to fit, packed with grease.


The only harm possible really would be hitting the arm so hard the metal cracks, which I don't think I've ever seen happen, I think I'd remember that, or distorting the tapered hole the shaft seats in, which I KNOW I've never seen happen.

You'd need to be some kind of mutant to be able to do damage like that with the shaft still seated, and once the shaft pops out you stop swinging the hammer :)

romeox929
01-10-2008, 01:31 AM
ok, i've tried hammering the center link from the top between the ac pipes and exhaust manifolds with the nut slightly on, but not off and have been going at it with a metal bar and sledge for almost a half an hour now...no luck. i can't imagine trying your method, not enough leverage. i think i just might take it in a shop for once. :mad

Binjammin
01-10-2008, 07:54 PM
ok, i've tried hammering the center link from the top between the ac pipes and exhaust manifolds with the nut slightly on, but not off and have been going at it with a metal bar and sledge for almost a half an hour now...no luck. i can't imagine trying your method, not enough leverage. i think i just might take it in a shop for once. :mad

Metal bar? Who said anything about a metal bar? You need to jack the car up and swing at the idler itself. Hit it with the hammerjammer. to get a full swing you're going to want to be under the car while it's jacked up (on stands, duh) and have the tire off, to get the full swing.

ceedee
01-10-2008, 10:36 PM
get one of these
i clipped it over the joint and then with a couple extensions and a 3/4 socket
i turned until it poped off.
that's the sensible way to go , i find

Russellc
01-10-2008, 10:39 PM
get one of these
i clipped it over the joint and then with a couple extensions and a 3/4 socket
i turned until it poped off.
that's the sensible way to go , i find
This how I did it. I borrowed a tie rod/puller kit from either Advance Auto or Autozone. I later bought a puller, just in case. I like tools :)

Grim Reaper
01-10-2008, 11:36 PM
This how I did it. I borrowed a tie rod/puller kit from either Advance Auto or Autozone. I later bought a puller, just in case. I like tools :)

+1

The right puller makes this small task a cakewalk. Get the OTC front end service kit for like $80 to 100 bucks and never look back.

romeox929
01-11-2008, 04:12 AM
+1

The right puller makes this small task a cakewalk. Get the OTC front end service kit for like $80 to 100 bucks and never look back.

wow, where'd you find that kit for 80-100 bucks? i just googled it and couldn't find a 5-pc set for less than 120.

Grim Reaper
01-11-2008, 04:53 AM
wow, where'd you find that kit for 80-100 bucks? i just googled it and couldn't find a 5-pc set for less than 120.

I bought mine from ToolKing.com earlier this summer and got it for 89.99 but right now Amazon lists them offering it at 109 bucks. Even at that price its a kit that will pay for itself many, many times for you and your friends. GL

romeox929
01-11-2008, 05:02 AM
nice, thnx for all the replies. i'll be ordering these at tooltopia (free shipping) for 118 bucks. so, if anybody else is done with doing things the ghetto way (not that it hasn't worked 95% of the time) here's to doing it right.

ironie
01-11-2008, 07:17 AM
In the imortal words of one of my bosse many moons ago when I was young dumb and full of ....
Jesus Christ Almighty, Just hit the flucking thing!!

Binjammin
01-11-2008, 11:25 AM
In the imortal words of one of my bosse many moons ago when I was young dumb and full of ....
Jesus Christ Almighty, Just hit the flucking thing!!


Amen! Stop hitting it with your purse, Nancy. It's time to pick up the hammer.

ceedee
01-11-2008, 08:03 PM
Amen! Stop hitting it with your purse, Nancy. It's time to pick up the hammer.
the nancy i know would have a sledgehammer in her pocketbook:lol