Any suggestions on track tires on stock wheels for an 07 M coupe? Street legal setup... i dont wanna swap out tires........

Anyone know if any R compound tires fit?

thnx

Toyo R888 from Appalachian Race Tire. I would use 245 on the front and 275 on the rear.

The Toyo RA1 is a street legal tire. Because the tire will wear so fast if you drive the car often (if not then who cares) it would probably be more cost effective over time to get a spare set of wheels. They'll pay for themselves after a few set of expensive R comps.

1. How many track events have you done?

2. How often do you expect to track your car?

3. Is it for a competitive event (auto-cross or time trial?)

Impossible to give any sort of real usable answer without the above information.

(forgiveness asked in advance for slight thread hack, but asking similar question...)

I've done 4 HPDE events/year for the past 3 years, and my KDW2's tread is getting pretty beat after just 4 events and 6k highway miles/year.

So, even though it might be slight overkill, thinking of an inexpensive set of lighter 17" wheel/tires for the next season (5+ HPDE events).

Given that, any thoughts on:

17x8, Oz Ultraleggera, 17x8, Italy (~$260/wheel)

For slight stagger setup (with bigger sways and strut bar mods, my car already at slight oversteer bias), and fit 17x8, should the tires be as follows?

Rear: 245/45-17
Front: 225/45-17

Any thoughts on Nitto NT01, shaved, heat cycled (dry track)? Other suggestions that'll make it through 6 HDPE sessions?

Thanks for the expertise!!!

Chris

Is that 4 events total under your belt, or just the last 3 years (but you've done like 40+ events in your "career?")

If you've only done 4 events, and you only plan on attending 5 more this coming year, going to R-comps will ultimately result in a crash or some serious off-road excursion. I'm not saying this to try to scare you. It is almost guaranteed that you will not learn the necessary skills to figure out where the real limits of the car is until it is WAY TOO LATE. R-Comps thresholds are so high that when it lets go, it lets go catastrophically. You want to have absolutely mastered car control and is able to PREDICT what the car is going to do far enough ahead of time so that when the R-comps do let go, you have anticipated it far enough ahead to counter. 4 events is not nearly enough if you ask me. If you've never spun on your street tires, you should seriously consider not putting on R-comps until you've spun the car out a few times at auto-cross speeds so you'll know what to expect, then talk to your instructors and see if they think you're ready for R-comps.

And the worst part in this whole deal, is I've sat in the passenger seat enough times with people who got R-comps on their car way too early, and continues to drive on R-comps. They stopped learning and is wondering why all these guys are passing them on street tires. R-comps cover up so much of your mistakes, you end up not noticing them until it's too late, and it's hard for you to listen to your instructor when he screams "you're EARLY" or "SMOOTH HANDS!" when the car feels perfectly in control.

As far as a tire at this level is concerned, I think you should stay on street tires, but go up to something like Micheline Pilot Sport IIs or Bridgestone Pole Position RE050A. Judging from the fact that you are going through a set of KDW2s after just 4 events and 6,000 highway miles, you are OVER-DRIVING your car and most likely sliding the tires around too much or is being too rough on the steering, throttle, and brake. R-Comps will exacerbate the problem, not alleviate it. I'm really tough on tires and my Continentals lasted me around 12 events and 11,000 miles on some of the roughest tracks in California.

If you're a seasoned veteran and knows how to handle the car like the back of my hand, ignore everything I just said.

Good info, thanks very much!

To answer your questions:

~12 events in last 3 years - although I get put in advanced run groups, still very humble and consider myself in learning mode. IMHO, that's a good way to live life in general! My lap times are consistent, but could be a bit smoother/faster overall.

I've spun out and recovered, and yeah, probably drive harder than I need too on the track - likely braking a bit later than I should. I'm still mastering the right amount of drift. At least 2 tires are on pavement at all times, and 95%+ all 4 - although rumble strips used when it makes sense to.

The heat really took it's toll on the KDW2s at the track, that unique tread pattern might take it worse than other tires - saw similar on a totally different car (mod'd A4). Also, the track I was on (PIR) was in a bad state this last year, and recently repaved. Lots of cracks and such, which might have caused more wear than usual.

Couple quick follow-up questions, and really appreciate your perspective:

Do you recommend shaving or heat cycling the tires you mention, or just keep em stock?

Also, is the idea of going 17s with larger sidewalls a solid way to think for the track, over the stock 18s?


Grazie!!

Good info, thanks very much!

To answer your questions:

~12 events in last 3 years - although I get put in advanced run groups, still very humble and consider myself in learning mode. IMHO, that's a good way to live life in general! My lap times are consistent, but could be a bit smoother/faster overall.

I've spun out and recovered, and yeah, probably drive harder than I need too on the track - likely braking a bit later than I should. I'm still mastering the right amount of drift. At least 2 tires are on pavement at all times, and 95%+ all 4 - although rumble strips used when it makes sense to.

The heat really took it's toll on the KDW2s at the track, that unique tread pattern might take it worse than other tires - saw similar on a totally different car (mod'd A4). Also, the track I was on (PIR) was in a bad state this last year, and recently repaved. Lots of cracks and such, which might have caused more wear than usual.

Couple quick follow-up questions, and really appreciate your perspective:

Do you recommend shaving or heat cycling the tires you mention, or just keep em stock?

Also, is the idea of going 17s with larger sidewalls a solid way to think for the track, over the stock 18s?


Grazie!!

Okay, so it sounds like you may be at a point where your learning curve is starting to plateau, and the higher speed the R-Comps afford you may allow you to ramp the learning curve again. However, I think you need to start learning to brake less and "drift" less, but that's something you'll need to work with an instructor with. It took me around 20 or so events to figure that out, and once you figure out how to brake it'll actually make you FASTER.

As far as the NT-01s are concerned, it looks like they require very little shaving/heat cycling to reach optimum performance specs, unlike the RA-1s (keep in mind this is all feedback gathered from fellow instructors who has ran both tires). If you don't shave the RA-1s it'll actually shorten the life of the tire.

I wouldn't shave street tires unless it's a tire like the T1-R that has a lot of tread squirm from the beginning. Neither the Michelin or the Bridgestone should be shaved, especially the Bridgestone, but they do need to be properly heat-cycled. Best way is to take it easy on the first event you run with them, and progressively "up" your temple through-out the day. They should reach their maximum tire life once properly heat cycled.

As far as the size of the wheels are concerned, you should go with the smallest wheel that will clear the brake hardware. So if the 17's will clear, you should get the 17s. You're giving up some turn-in feel for much better rotational mass (typically lighter wheel and tire package). Unless you can score some 18s that weigh less than the 17s you were going to get...Then go for the best of all worlds. You also get much better tire choices with 17s than you do with 18s, especially with R-comps.

Lastly, believe it or not, going WIDER actually will prolong your tire life. Wider tire means more area exposed to ambient air. Tires in their optimum operating temperature range will have extended life. Maybe that's all you need to do.

Are you able to compare the RE050A's to the RE01R's? Any preference?

Are you able to compare the RE050A's to the RE01R's? Any preference?

Not yet, I'm waiting for some possible "sponsorship" type deal to be available, or when my Conti's are done to switch to the RE01Rs. A few instructor friend that has gotten the RE01R has commented that these are the closest thing to R-Comps that they've ever driven on, as far as street tires are concerned. The RE050As, while sticky, are still street tires. Their feedback was they're actually closer to R-Comps than street tires, all things considered. I would put them as intermediates between R-comps, if you've grown past regular street tires and want to explore the limit but still need to drive your car on the street "regularly" and don't feel like swapping out rims at the track. In fact, to answer the OP, I think the RE01R or Yokohama Advan Neova AD07s are probably better choices than going to R-comps (heck, run OE tires if this is your first 4-5 events, or first time with this car). RE01R has same size tires that fit the OE rims. Closest Advan Neova is 245 for the rear.

From my perspective, the RE050A would be a much better "all around" tire, it's less noisy (it's relatively quiet for ultra high performance summer tire) with comparatively compliant sidewall, and provides excellent grip once properly inflated. The RE01R will be what I would buy though, since my MZ4 Coupe is used mainly for weekend drives and track events. For tracks that I would have to drive for more than 3 hours to get to, I would probably use the RE01R, and for local tracks (Buttonwillow, WSIR, California Speedway) I would swap out to my Nitto NT-01 prior to leaving home. When I get my Nittos.

I agree. I put the RE050A's on my MZ4 roadster and left the tire sizes staggered as per stock. I have a smooth as silk ride and they stick good.

As for my MZ4 coupe that sees more agressive driving and will be run in the Targa Newfoundland this year I squared up to reduce understeer and fitted the RE01R's 245/40/18's all round. The RE01R's give a firmer ride and the steering feels quicker. They seem to have a very strong sidewall and this is good as I need a strong tire to handle very rough roads. I carry a spare in the coupe and will rotate the five tires. If I can get 21,000 k's (13,000 miles) that will get me there, get me through the event, and get me home.

Last year in the Targa I blew the front Continentals right off the wheels and the back ones were bald when I got home. The Continentals felt greasy and slick in the rain and the sidewalls seem thin and weak. When I switched to the Stones the difference was huge.

Do you have any problems putting the power down on 245 rears?

No problem as long as the road is dry. The 245 RE-01R's make better traction than the 255 Conti's.

I put on 235 / 265 Yokohama Advan A048's, they are pretty versatile R compounds. We'll see how they work out this season!