Can anyone advise me how to remove the lense from the underhood light on my 96 8 series? The bulb is burned out and I can't figure out how to remove the cover without breaking it! I see a black tab on either side but squeezing the tabs, pushing them in or out or pulling on the cover doesn't accomplish anything.

IIRC it only turns on when the car running lights are on.

Most likely the plastic has lost all resiliency in the under hood temps. So it will probably have to be replaced :(

Didn't know that, Thanks!

Had the same question.....
The trunk and under hood didn't work....replaced bulbs but still not working, so I'll try with running lights and see what happens....
I also noticed the two wire harnesses that plug into the hood release/swithces, were unplugged.....something to do with setting off alarm.....

You learn something everytime on this forum. Since joining, I am amazed at how quickly members volunteer their expertise.

Does it light up when the headlights are on?

Thanks i also didnt know that

Underhood light and trunk light should be ON when you have the light switch in the "PARKING" or "HEADLIGHTS". If not, then you have bad bulbs, or bad connection.

My underhood light will come on only when the car lights are on....the trunk lights work, just like the interior lights, if the car lights are on or not. The interior and trunk lights will go off after about 5 to 7 minutes, and will re-set after you close all doors and trunk or put the key in to #2 spot.
Hope this helps,
P. Ford

P Ford,
Thanks, Your discription validates and clears up the question of how my underhood and trunk lights work. Now I know my underhood light is not burned out but operating normally. Now I still have to figure out how to remove the cover if the light ever does burn out.

Whale,
I'm sorry to tell you, but if the lens is hard (due to under hood temps) you will just have to 'make it come off...ie. break-maybe.
These bulbs appear to last for ever.....anyway, when is the last time you needed to do something under the hood in the dark???
Hope this helps,
P. Ford

P.Ford,
I think I have a compulsive disorder. Everything has to work and be spotless when it comes to my car. Wife caught me detailing me wheel wells the other day and thought I had lost it! Gregg

I think I have a compulsive disorder. Everything has to work and be spotless when it comes to my car.

You are not alone :devillook

Guys im a perfectionist when it comes to my cars especailly my 8 series, i spent 5 years looking for the perfect one, and i must admit i found it. Not a mechanic however do all the work myself or someone i really trust.

Gregg,
You are not alone, I'm also the guy that takes the wheels off, at least, twice a year to clean them and the wheel wells.
As for the engine compartment light this is the number: 63-31-8-350-554 and it should cost under $10.
My biggest light problem was in the trunk. It took me for ever to realize that the two lights were really on the back side of the tail lights not in the trunk lid.
Hope you get if your way,
P.Ford

My underhood light will come on only when the car lights are on....the trunk lights work, just like the interior lights, if the car lights are on or not. The interior and trunk lights will go off after about 5 to 7 minutes, and will re-set after you close all doors and trunk or put the key in to #2 spot.
Hope this helps,
P. Ford
P. Ford
I too had light issues, both hood and trunk....
Was enlighten to know that Hood light worked with lights on......checked mine and yes it's working....
Checked trunk lights (of which both bulbs were burned out and replaced) with interior lights on and still no trunk lights......there are three....two in the trunk lid itself, and one on package tray.....none working.
There is a switch, or what I assume to be a switch to the left of the bottom trunk latch, and figured I may have to check it for correct operation....? (all fuses have been checked)
Any input/advise would be appreciated.....

wess

Wess,
The trunk lights should work just like the interior lights. If your trunk lights are not working...and the fuse is good, you need to check the switch located in the lid, just to the side of the male latch, to see if it has power. Also, check the wire loom that goes done the side of your 'hinge' for the trunk lid, and see if you have power there. Not sure what the wire color is but if you look at any of the three lights you should see the wire plugged in.
There is also a relay that switches the lights off after about 5 to 8 minutes and it may be inoperable. Not sure where it is located but if needed maybe I can find it.
Hope this helps,

P. Ford,

The trunk lights should work just like the interior lights. If your trunk lights are not working...and the fuse is good, you need to check the switch located in the lid, just to the side of the male latch, to see if it has power.
On this car 97 850 CI,
The switch appears to be in the bottom edge of the trunk seal area, to the left of the female trunk latch, as far as I can tell.
On the trunk lid itself to the left of the male latch, there seems to be a thread button.
In order to trouble shoot both those areas, I'll need to remove the plastic retainers, which seem to be a concern. The pin in these buttons isn't exposed to be able to pull out, and prying on the retainers looks like it may cause some damage to the garnish. Not just a 5 minute project....!

Also, check the wire loom that goes done the side of your 'hinge' for the trunk lid, and see if you have power there. Not sure what the wire color is but if you look at any of the three lights you should see the wire plugged in.
When i can get all the garnish and lid carpet off I will be able to check wires for power etc....and certainly be able to define wire color.

There is also a relay that switches the lights off after about 5 to 8 minutes and it may be inoperable. Not sure where it is located but if needed maybe I can find it.
The interior light as I said are working, but I didn't wait 5-8 minutes to see if they go off, which would be next step to see if relays are operatings....I'm guessing.

For now, disassembly will be a process to make sure I don't do any damage to the plastic garnish or fasteners :(.
There are a few fasteners missing, and a few with pins missing, so I may just have to sacrafice the fasteners, but make a point of obtaining new one before I procceed.

A relay test will be first thing I can do without having to make a trip for parts.....
Hope this helps,

Wess,
The trunk lights should work just like the interior lights. If your trunk lights are not working...and the fuse is good, you need to check the switch located in the lid, just to the side of the male latch, to see if it has power. Also, check the wire loom that goes done the side of your 'hinge' for the trunk lid, and see if you have power there. Not sure what the wire color is but if you look at any of the three lights you should see the wire plugged in.
There is also a relay that switches the lights off after about 5 to 8 minutes and it may be inoperable. Not sure where it is located but if needed maybe I can find it.
Hope this helps,
Yes it does, Now at least i have a plan on what to look at
thanX
wess

Wess,
You are correct, the pin in the trunk lid does push into the 'little door' or switch in the upper lip of the bumper. I also, does screw in and out; If I remember correct, you will need to un-screw this to get the cover off.
To take the inner trunk liner out, you will need to remove the tool tray, and there are little screws along the edge (covered with plastic gray covers). There are a few 'pop-in' pins you will need to pull out as well. It is a job, but not a BIG job. If you do this, it would be also be a good time to replace all the bulbs in your trunk lid tail lights.
Hope this helps...send me a email if you need better directions.
P. Ford

Wess,
You are correct, the pin in the trunk lid does push into the 'little door' or switch in the upper lip of the bumper. I also, does screw in and out; If I remember correct, you will need to un-screw this to get the cover off.
To take the inner trunk liner out, you will need to remove the tool tray, and there are little screws along the edge (covered with plastic gray covers). There are a few 'pop-in' pins you will need to pull out as well. It is a job, but not a BIG job. If you do this, it would be also be a good time to replace all the bulbs in your trunk lid tail lights.
Hope this helps...send me a email if you need better directions.
P. Ford

In order to get all my ducks in a row, I'll plan on getting new fastners to replace the old one which mostly certainly get damaged when I removed them.....then I can check switch, replace bulbs, check for power etc....then be able to complete all at once......in one process ....I hope.

While I'm in the trunk, my plan is to add a bolt on battery harness for the battery tender as well, so I can move the one currently under the hood with clamps.
My understanding is the reason for two batteries is because of the requirement for power, and if it sits without a tender for a month they get low.....

thanX again, I'll be back "If" (when) I run into a concern or question
wess

Wess,
I also have to put a 'trickle' charge on Crimson because I don't drive him to much in the Winter. I have found it best to use the 'Neg' bolt/nuts that the two batterys hook to, located on the left/drivers side-inside the battery cover-under the tail light, to put the 'Neg' charger clamp on and put the 'Pos' charger clamp on the 'Pos' post of the battery located here. This is real simple to do and I have never had a problem doing it this way.
Hope this helps,
P. Ford

Wess,
I also have to put a 'trickle' charge on Crimson because I don't drive him to much in the Winter. I have found it best to use the 'Neg' bolt/nuts that the two batterys hook to, located on the left/drivers side-inside the battery cover-under the tail light, to put the 'Neg' charger clamp on and put the 'Pos' charger clamp on the 'Pos' post of the battery located here. This is real simple to do and I have never had a problem doing it this way.
Hope this helps,
P. Ford
P. Ford
Yep, that exactly what I was planning after reading the manual about battery issues and connections.
It mentions that when disconnecting the batteries always start with the ground cable that attaches to the body in the left rear as you mentioned.
My goal is simple, just trying to get all work in the trunk done at once, and as I said permanently mount the tender cable for the future use.

I'm still working on light housings (waiting on parts) so I have housing painted covers off......the tender that's connected now, is to the the jump start posts and the tender and wire hang across to my bench making me have to step over the cord constantly....(an extension could be used, but I just cleaned up my garage, and my cord box is tucked neatly on a shelf)

Think I'm going to drill the pins in the plastic fasteners of trunk garnish, and then should be able to slide some welding rod into the hole and pull the pins out cleanly.....i hope.....then I'll have a count on required replacements and can make a trip down to the beamer dealer .....

Going to warm here again today so it will be perfect to do the trunk job.....the back of the car will be in the sun.....hate it when it's cold and have to run heater and close the door.....

adios
wess

P. Ford......
Just a heads up on the trunk light switch.....the spring loaded pad to the left of the female trunk latch .......is part of the trunk release....
Pulled the release out and found that the power wires that go it, were from the above license plate trunk release switch/pad.

Found a barely visible open hole to the right of the male trunk latch in on the trunk lid itself (under the carpet), fished around in there and pulled out some connectors, jumped them and the lights work......so apparently the switch was removed the same time they (mechanics) disconnected the hood latch switch harness.
My understanding is the alarm was going off for no apparent reason so I'm guessing that was their fix.....

So I'll check on a switch the same time i go to get plastic fasteners to re-install the lower trunk garnish.

:lol

Excellent, Thanks for posting Wess!

Great news, glad you found the problem....It's nice when that happens, isn't it.
P.Ford

Now that I know what the problem with the trunk light was.....I'm in need of the switch, and of course the plastic fasteners (expanding rivits) that hold the trunk garnish in/down

51481905599 Expanding Rivit
61311370805 Trunk Light Switch

check a couple place that were on the parts catalog and none even show the car/model let alone the parts.
I checked Pelican parts and they have the part number and description, so I may call them see if the can track down the rivits and get it over with.

Wess,
I have found this to be the best place to get parts (this means the best price, as in they give great deals to the 8 Group) is Gault Auto Sport BMW. Call 1-866-590-4252, ask for Charlie Spear. Charlie is the main man for the 8 group and gives us a real nice discount!
You may know this already, the best place to look up parts is 'realoem.com', put you last 7 VIN in and everything you need to look at will be there.
Hope this helps,
P.Ford

So I'll check on a switch the same time i go to get plastic fasteners to re-install the lower trunk garnish.
:lol

Check with Jim @e31parts.com, I know we removed a good switch from the EURO car last week.

Based on the info I found so far, the shipping will be more that the parts, but oh well.....

Good resourses though....

wess