figured some people may like this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkmZveqyU5E&feature=related

seen it already.... actually good video

i dont like the wax tho... im sure there other waxes that are just as good for under 100

That video is so overplayed it isn't even funny anymore. I'm sure it may be new to people every now and then, but honestly, on forums (whether it be BF, Autopia, Autogeek), that video is posted over, and over, and over.

Basically, yes; Paul does amazing work, and there is no denying that. The wax is, however, over rated and isn't a wonder wax as many make it out to be. It is a good wax, just not a miracle. Nothing special to see here, move on.

hahahaha you can call him to clean up bird crap on your car.

I wish I could afford his services...

wow, never saw this...that's awesome

This is just my opinion but

1. I always use a two bucket cleaning method and a much softer cleaning utensil then he does. I suppose he figures f it, he's gona take out the swirls he puts in the finish anyway.

2. I never NEVER use MF towels period. I always use 100% cotton with the edges removed. On black cars especially they will mar the fininsh.

3. I never use wax as it evaporates in record time. I personally use Zaino but there are others as good.


I would like one of those meters and magnifying spectacles though. They look pretty cool!

Well here's my opinion on this guy (I am a professional detailer and own a shop):

1. He's wrong about the wheels and wheel cleaners. Diluted acids are quite alright to use on high end wheels. I talked to a high end wheel refinishing shop (they've done carrera gt wheels) about this once to settle the argument. You have to understand how clearcoat works and how it reacts to know why and what you can use for a wheel cleaner.

2. He's using the wrong type of polishing pad and rpm to effectively re level and swirled areas. I didn't see the polish otherwise I'd probably comment on that too.

3. 6000 quid wax? LOL carnauba is what it is. Yes there are different variants and amounts of it put into wax but eqaute it to this. You have a jar full of say 50 pennies, you add in 10% more pennies. Have you added a lot more value to the jar? Not really. Same applies to the carnauba percentages in wax that differentiates the prices from $50 a tin to unthinkable prices. It really doesn't do the car anymore justice.

4. Sounded like he used a sealant version of wax. On cars like that, especially if he re-glazes them every month is a big no no. If he's not using a specified solvent (which he should be) to remove the sealant before polishing, he'll never get down to actually polishing the actual clearcoat.

I could go on but that video was pretty vague and chopped up. Maybe he is doing what he should be.

Bottom line is though I can make any car look just as good as he can using 1/3 of the products and for about $400-$600 depending on the condition. I'll even wetsand say an entire black 911 for $2000 and do him one better and get rid of ANY orange peel! That's still a fraction of what he charges.

This is just my opinion but

1. I always use a two bucket cleaning method and a much softer cleaning utensil then he does. I suppose he figures f it, he's gona take out the swirls he puts in the finish anyway.

2. I never NEVER use MF towels period. I always use 100% cotton with the edges removed. On black cars especially they will mar the fininsh.

3. I never use wax as it evaporates in record time. I personally use Zaino but there are others as good.


I would like one of those meters and magnifying spectacles though. They look pretty cool!

1) Trust me, he makes the surface swirl free and knows what he is doing.
2) I'm not sure what your thing is against MF towels, but they are proven to be just as soft on paint, if not softer than cotton while being able to absorb more. Nothing wrong with quality cotton towels though, and I am not sure what kind of MF you were using, but they will not mar the surface.
3)Again, you must have some grudges. Not all waxes are the same; I'm sure you have heard of Meguiar's M16 and Collnite. They are proven to last almost as long as Zaino, while even being able to protect better in some cases. Not everyone is after durability though, as some prefer a wet look that sealants just can't offer.

I'm not trying to dog on you man, so don't take it the wrong way, but don't start making claims that just simply are not true.

Well here's my opinion on this guy (I am a professional detailer and own a shop):

1. He's wrong about the wheels and wheel cleaners. Diluted acids are quite alright to use on high end wheels. I talked to a high end wheel refinishing shop (they've done carrera gt wheels) about this once to settle the argument. You have to understand how clearcoat works and how it reacts to know why and what you can use for a wheel cleaner.

2. He's using the wrong type of polishing pad and rpm to effectively re level and swirled areas. I didn't see the polish otherwise I'd probably comment on that too.

3. 6000 quid wax? LOL carnauba is what it is. Yes there are different variants and amounts of it put into wax but eqaute it to this. You have a jar full of say 50 pennies, you add in 10% more pennies. Have you added a lot more value to the jar? Not really. Same applies to the carnauba percentages in wax that differentiates the prices from $50 a tin to unthinkable prices. It really doesn't do the car anymore justice.

4. Sounded like he used a sealant version of wax. On cars like that, especially if he re-glazes them every month is a big no no. If he's not using a specified solvent (which he should be) to remove the sealant before polishing, he'll never get down to actually polishing the actual clearcoat.

I could go on but that video was pretty vague and chopped up. Maybe he is doing what he should be.

Bottom line is though I can make any car look just as good as he can using 1/3 of the products and for about $400-$600 depending on the condition. I'll even wetsand say an entire black 911 for $2000 and do him one better and get rid of ANY orange peel! That's still a fraction of what he charges.

1) It depends on the wheel itself. You are right that there is no harm in using an acidic cleaner on coated wheels, then again most manufactorers (including BMW) do not recommend acidic cleaners, and so he doesn't have to worry about voiding any warrenties by using acidic cleaners.
2) How do you know? Seriously....you don't even know what kind of condition the paint was in!
3) True, you can buy waxes for much cheaper, but I think you are assuming that this wax is just the same as a $100 tin of wax, when it just isn't. Sure, it is carnauba, but did you also know it has a lifetime refill (you just pay shipping), and considering how many cars he does, I am sure that worked out to not as much as you may think. Do I still believe it is an overpriced wax? You bet, but that doesn't seem to keep people from buying it. I've also heard that Royale tends to be one of the more durable carnauba waxes with life that would rival Zaino and a hydrophobic effect that would even make Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer run in fear.
4) See #3. It is infact a carnauba wax.

Again, I believe you guys have it mixed up. More or less, he charges by the hour at a rate of £75 + VAT an hour, which when you look at the automotive industry, is about average to what a certified mechanic will charge. He will also travel world wide, and yes, he does do wet sanding.


Am I saying he is the best detailer, well no. There are plenty of detailers all around the world that will produce results that are just as good, but the trick is finding them and trusting that they will do the same quality work time and time again. I have nothing but respect for him and the level of work he does. The funny part is that while many detailers bag him, we just have to remember who is making the $$$ in this scenario.

^As per #4. There are carnuaba based sealants out there.

Things like Royale, Zaino, Megs are all retail waxes. They're meant to be for the retail client. You should know this Wolf if you're a detailer. We have a whole world of professional grade waxes and sealants at our fingertips that outperform anything off of the shelf or anything boutiquish like what he uses at a fraction of the cost. That's one of the reasons people go to a pro detailer.

^As per #4. There are carnuaba based sealants out there.

Things like Royale, Zaino, Megs are all retail waxes. They're meant to be for the retail client. You should know this Wolf if you're a detailer. We have a whole world of professional grade waxes and sealants at our fingertips that outperform anything off of the shelf or anything boutiquish like what he uses at a fraction of the cost. That's one of the reasons people go to a pro detailer.
I think the reason people go to a professional detailer isn't for the products they use though, rather in the comfort that they know their car is going to look great and be well taken care of without them having to spend hours doing so.

I completely agree though; I even speak to many detailers who have been in business for a long, long time and if anything, I find that many of them who are not internet savy, do not even know of products like Zaino, Pinnacle, Zymol (even though it is a shelf cleaner wax), or Menzerna. I would venture to say that a vast majority of detailers out there get their products from companies who have salesmen call them up to get them to use their product, or they go for products that they have already heard of like Meguiar's. I know AutoBrite, Production Car Care, and Automagic are huge in the detailer world because they do just that; they have sales people going out to these detailers and selling their products to them, and the dealerships where some start!

Well this is a list of what I use. And I use it because it works a lot better than store bought products, not because a salesman called me up.

Auto Magic
Car Brite
PRO
3M
Auto Valet
Ducan
Auto Glym body shop line

What can I say, I have no "grudge" It's as I stated my opinion. My experience with black cars and MF towels has not been positive. I do however use the BB drying MF towel but never, NEVER like was shown in the video. I pat only never rub. 100% Cotton is always the better choice. I use water dry method then pat with a big blue.

As far as colnite and meguires M16 I have never used it so I can't say. But ALL wax begins to eveaporate as soon as it's put on. I have used pinnacle souvern, p21s, turtle and Mothers. All leave a great shine but short lived. Synthetics, properly applied last 4 months. Some don't like the glassy look of sealants but that's just a preference.

German Pride 10, but you see my point is you use the internet and browse forums where different products are mentioned, wheras otherwise, the computer illiterate detailer does not. Now granted, that number is getting fewer and fewer as more and more people learn to use the computer.

Rebel1, while I still believe MF is a better choice, I do agree with you on everything else :)

German Pride 10, but you see my point is you use the internet and browse forums where different products are mentioned, wheras otherwise, the computer illiterate detailer does not. Now granted, that number is getting fewer and fewer as more and more people learn to use the computer.

Rebel1, while I still believe MF is a better choice, I do agree with you on everything else :)

My experience with MF was early on. I do use alot of MF for cleaning and they are great. What MF would you recomend for detailing?

^Superex isn't bad for the price.

My experience with MF was early on. I do use alot of MF for cleaning and they are great. What MF would you recomend for detailing?

Cobra or Meguiar's. I tend to just order Meguiar's as they are cheaper, and I have found they work just as well. The key is that you need to upkeep them, because if you don't, then yes, they can do more harm than good to the paint. Most dealerships or whatever don't tend to have the best quality microfiber either, and if they do upkeep them instead of just throwing them away, they don't always do the best job. You have to use very, very little detergent, with something that has no fabric softeners, bleach, or anything of the sort (ie: Tide Free) in a liquid, not powder form and wash them on HOT. In the final rinse cycle, throw in some viniger, or even go as far as going through another wash cycle with no detergent as even though you might of used a little bit, it will still cling to the fibers. Using a microfiber wash with a premeasured cup tends to work best though.

For drying, just toss them on a clothes line, as if you put them in the dryer, they will pick up every little spec of lint or dirt caught in the dryer. Not only that, but they will also tend to be very staticy, which is no good. Clothes line drying works best.