No slop at all and will only go on one way. Steering wheel is always where it should be.

Jay

Right now this will go on anyway it wants to. I am most likely going to grind a spline off the hub and weld a 'no-go' in a spline groove in the QR hub. Then it only goes on one way.

Actually, I may have misled. The TC Design QR attaches to a Momo or Sparco hub (6-hole) so assuming you already had an aftermarket wheel on there it's cake. It doesn't go directly onto the OEM column. The TC Design QR is very nice. No slop at all and will only go on one way. Steering wheel is always where it should be.

Jay

One problem with those bolt-on adapters is that they tend to position the steering wheel a few inches further back because you now have the thickness of the adapter + the QR + steering wheel dish. I have had to modifiy (shorten) momo adapters and used spacers to get the position right using a bolt-on QR. Welding to the shaft is easier, just make sure you center the rack before you start welding.

Welding to the shaft is easier, just make sure you center the rack before you start welding.

I thought about that yesterday.

How thick are your plates where the cage meets the body? Looks like 1/8" but thats a wild guess.

Actually, I may have misled. The TC Design QR attaches to a Momo or Sparco hub (6-hole) so assuming you already had an aftermarket wheel on there it's cake. It doesn't go directly onto the OEM column.
Exactly... so even though TC's quick release ($225, "will move the steering wheel ~2" closer to the driver") is way less expensive than the one from Sparco ($329) you still have to add the cost of the splined hub adapter to the BMW column ($69), and all of that adds up.... and stacks up. It was going to cost me $250 for the wheel but another $398 to put it on the car, bringing the total to over $650 after shipping, to put a lousy steering wheel on the car?! That's a little nuts. :stickoutt

http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/223969296_HjPq2-M.jpg http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/223969331_bfNU3-S.jpg
This is the Sparco quick release, which bolts to the thick Sparco splined hub adapter. Add them together and its +$400 and inches thicker than it needs to be...

One problem with those bolt-on adapters is that they tend to position the steering wheel a few inches further back because you now have the thickness of the adapter + the QR + steering wheel dish. I have had to modify (shorten) momo adapters and used spacers to get the position right using a bolt-on QR. Welding to the shaft is easier, just make sure you center the rack before you start welding.

Yep, this combined set of hub adapters and quick release parts adds 2"+ inches to the column length and moves the wheel closer to the driver. Some people want that, and there are hub extenders made for this very reason. But for others, especially taller driver's like me, the hub adapter + quick release assembly can put the wheel too close to your chest and jack up the seating position/ergonomics. When I was looking into adding an aftermarket steering wheel to our Alpha car I sat in and took a lot of measurements from other BMWs with quick releases and didn't like how the wheel was placed, as well as the costs, so I researched a bit and found what we and M3Muscle have used a combined 3 times now. Its cheap, its rugged, there's no added shaft length when modified correctly, and it works. :cool

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/272471006_BwuNh-S.jpg http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/234087468_3NAeX-S.jpg
Left: The Sparco wheel and weld-on quick release shown here stack up to the same depth as the stock wheel. Right: The modified (machined bore and cut off length) weld-on hub adapter used.

The TC Design QR is very nice. No slop at all and will only go on one way. Steering wheel is always where it should be.

Jay
That's a bonus, of course. Most of the units I found were either hex bar (you could put the wheel back on in 1 of 6 positions) or splined (dozens of ways to index).

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/223969259_dmLpm-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/225416639_itFSL-S.jpg

It was fairly easy to paint a mark on the column and the hub to line it up for me, no biggie, but it may bother others if the splines leave too many options to pop the wheel back on. For me, now I never have to worry about centering the wheel when moving the toe settings up front. :D And I won't argue this point: the TCDesigns and Sparco built quick release assemblies are much nicer looking, very well built, and easier to install, by far. A weld on steering wheel adapter isn't for the faint of heart - there's no going back.

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/276109740_Wf7nd-S.jpg http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/279769411_j5Dvi-S.jpg

One thing to note: After going from the gigantic stock steering wheel to this much smaller diameter Sparco, now I can't see the gauges! Our EVO driver's seat is mounted fairly high, due to a modified OEM slider. This higher seating position affords us better visibility than a normal racing seat, but it just ruins my gauge visibility now. I can't see the tach above the "2000" mark! Oh well, the V8 is fairly easy to shift by ear, and it doesn't matter much where you shift it - it makes power from 2500-6500.... :D (we're adding a DASH2 digital dash soon, so this won't be a concern for long)

Exactly... so even though TC's quick release ($225, "will move the steering wheel ~2" closer to the driver") is way less expensive than the one from Sparco ($329) you still have to add the cost of the splined hub adapter to the BMW column ($69), and all of that adds up.... and stacks up. It was going to cost me $250 for the wheel but another $398 to put it on the car, bringing the total to over $650 after shipping, to put a lousy steering wheel on the car?! That's a little nuts. :stickoutt



If you want an even cheaper option LTB motorsports sells a bolt on quickrelease for $99, it attaches the wheel to the Momo/Sparco adapter like the TC one does.

If you want an even cheaper option LTB motorsports sells a bolt on quickrelease for $99, it attaches the wheel to the Momo/Sparco adapter like the TC one does.
And here's a link... http://www.ltbmotorsports.com/ltbquicrelsp.html - $125

"Bolt-on" in this case means that it bolts onto a Momo or Sparco 6-bolt pattern splined hub adapter ($69), so there's more to it than this part alone - plus this unit "...will extend the steering wheel closer to the driver by about 3 (inches)" so we're back to the longer stack-up depth and wheel placement issue as before.

So this looks to be a low cost (Asian import?) alternative to Sparco Italian made or TCD's domesticly made part. Do you know how this unit feels, in use? Is it domestically made by LTB? Is it tight or does it have any movement? Of the ones I've seen and used first hand, the feel and fit from the TCD and Sparco quick release units is unsurpassed; the cheaper import and/or stock car aftermarket supplied quick releases tend to have a small amount of looseness to them (some are better than others). I guess you kind of do "Get what you pay for" here. Our weld-on unit is not perfect in this regard, either.

Just FYI...

The price must have gone up recently. It is your basic $50 circle track quickrelease with adapter plates welded to the shaft and bolted to the hub. I don't know where it's made, I'm sure they just buy it from someone and attach the plates. I have a similar one on my 944 racecar, it is a hex shaft but there isn't any slop and it feels the same as the $240 Smart Racing one on the 911. If you can weld you can do it cheap: buy the QR hub for ~$50 and a 3 bolt to Momo pattern adapter ~$40. If you have access to a machine shop you could make everything you need but for $125 it isn't worth it for me.

Here are some QR hubs:

http://www.quickcar.net/safety_equip/se_fshub.html
http://www.quickcar.net/safety_equip/360hxhub.html
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/steer10.htm

Adapters can be found a number of places, even on ebay, I like these ones (hrp sells the spacers too):

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=1024,252,48,363_3933&action=product

With all things factored in, I think Vorshlag found the best solution for the $$$. Hands down!

Gears to fill the Cobra diff came in today. I went with 3.55 gears...hopefully they should be an all around gear choice. If not, I'll swap them out. They only cost $89 shipped, and they are OE Ford gears.:redspot

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1315.jpg

Gears to fill the Cobra diff came in today. I went with 3.55 gears...hopefully they should be an all around gear choice. If not, I'll swap them out. They only cost $89 shipped, and they are OE Ford gears.:redspot

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1315.jpg


Ohh purdy..... What is that on the one on the right towards the end, is that RUST!? BEGONE YE RUST!!!!! AWAY!!

Ohh purdy..... What is that on the one on the right towards the end, is that RUST!? BEGONE YE RUST!!!!! AWAY!!

I will agree 99% Ford's products are absolute garbage, but it's not rust. It's some kind or dry lubricant or anti-seize for the pinion flange.

setting backlash...haven't done that in like 3 years..

How thick are your plates where the cage meets the body? Looks like 1/8" but thats a wild guess.

You're right, 1/8".


setting backlash...haven't done that in like 3 years..

I haven't ever done it, but I'll figure it out.

Are you planning on installing the gears yourself?

You will find plenty of info on corral.net (mustang site). I have also heard good things about the Bad Show Productions (sp? check on ebay) Ford 8.8 gear swap DVD.

One thing to keep in mind is that you will need a case spreader for your aluminum IRS housing, plus a pinion setting tool. I you don't have these tools and can't borrow them you will be cheaper off to have a pro install them.

Are you planning on installing the gears yourself?

You will find plenty of info on corral.net (mustang site). I have also heard good things about the Bad Show Productions (sp? check on ebay) Ford 8.8 gear swap DVD.

One thing to keep in mind is that you will need a case spreader for your aluminum IRS housing, plus a pinion setting tool. I you don't have these tools and can't borrow them you will be cheaper off to have a pro install them.

I am planning on installing them myself. I have a good depth indicator, but what is the case spreader used for? Just to remove the rear cover?

Yesterday I got a pair of front tires in. They are Kuhmo V710 285/30-18 take-offs. They show little wear other than the outside of the tire.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1315-1.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1317.jpg

Subscribed, I spent almost 3 hours yesterday to slowly get through all the 21 pages:). Great pictures and detailed descriptions!

Big fat tires FTW.... getting closer to dropping that motor in

I am planning on installing them myself. I have a good depth indicator, but what is the case spreader used for? Just to remove the rear cover?

A case speader is used to 'spread' the case apart to insert shims on the side of the carrier when setting backlash.

Doug

I was curious to why you wouldnt use a stock bmw LSD differential and just get a custom driveshaft made consolidating the 2 driveshafts. The BMW diffs can hold a good amount of power.

I was curious to why you wouldnt use a stock bmw LSD differential and just get a custom driveshaft made consolidating the 2 driveshafts. The BMW diffs can hold a good amount of power.

If you're already doing all of the fabrication, why not use a stronger and much cheaper diff? We actually briefly looked at going with a Ford diff in our car back when we were rebuilding it...could have afforded to have a different diff for each track for about the same cost as one nicely built BMW diff. :eek:

And speaking from experience, the higher ratio 188 diffs don't hold up well to big torque numbers. We busted through two 4.45's pretty quickly after switching from the S50B32 to the torquier S54.

A case speader is used to 'spread' the case apart to insert shims on the side of the carrier when setting backlash.

Doug

Well crap! I did a bunch of reading on the 8.8 and nowhere did anyone mention a case spreader.


I was curious to why you wouldnt use a stock bmw LSD differential and just get a custom driveshaft made consolidating the 2 driveshafts. The BMW diffs can hold a good amount of power.

They hold good power as long as you don't have traction. :D I am looking at getting a set of CCW custom rims in 18 x 12 for the rear running something like a 315/30-18 rear tire.

Well I never though I would learn about the Ford 8.8" on BF, but I took the advice and bought the 'Bad Shoe Productions' 8.8 video and a case spreader tool off ebay.

Well I never though I would learn about the Ford 8.8" on BF, but I took the advice and bought the 'Bad Shoe Productions' 8.8 video and a case spreader tool off ebay.

Does something go in those holes like a turn buckle to move the cases apart? I know they make different types and I'm not familiar with that style.

Doug

Edit: This is the kind I'm familiar with.

Does something go in those holes like a turn buckle to move the cases apart? I know they make different types and I'm not familiar with that style.

Doug

Edit: This is the kind I'm familiar with.

No, it turns out that is just the adapter plate for the 8.8". I still need the spreader tool itself. Thanks for the heads up.

just want to see what is your progress on that cobra diff subframe modification and the overall progress on your project. Looking great so :buttrockfar

I have been covered up at work lately and haven't had the time to work on the car. It is going to be slow progress for a little while longer. I did buy the Bad Shoe Productions video on rebuilding the 8.8" IRS diff. I watched it and the diff rebuild won't be too hard.

Looking at Sparco's website the Pro 2000 seat has a shoulder height of 22.5". The seat with the tallest shoulder height is 23.6". If my shoulders are above the harness holes by a good 2"-3" then what the heck? I'm only 6'0". I'm not understanding what I'm missing/doing wrong. Are there certain seats built for taller people?

Is everyone that races built like Valentino Rossi?

Rossi and Hayden are the two tallest MotoGP riders, at both about 6' each. I think what you meant was Dani "The Hobbit" Pedrosa :)

Incredible work so far on the car

Colin,
looking forward to seeing the finished product.

couple questions, I sent you a PM

Custom CCW rims ftw! Those things are dead sexy.

So with the amount of meat you are running under this car are you going to have to do a wide body kit? Roll the fenders (a lot) at the very least?

I'm interested to find out.

Here is where I am currently. I am about to order my custom axles for the rear end tomorrow. I hope to order the rest of the suspension components within 1 week. So that will put me pretty close to a rolling car again...minus wheels/tires.

That is where I am stuck at a fork in the road. I can't decide size to go with on the rims. My first instinct tells me WIDE, but sometimes you can have too much tire. If I get too much tire I can't keep it hot. I want to order a set of CCW rims in 18 x 10.5 front and 18 x 12 rear. I will fit them with something like 285/295-30-18 front and 335-30-18 rear. Is the rear too big to keep at operating temperature on a regular track? I'm wondering if I need to step down and go with 18 x 10 with 285/295-30-18 front and 18 x 11 w/ 315-30-18 meats.

I am planning on putting some sick power down to the rear wheels! I just am not sure about the best balance through the corners versus corner exits and the rear stepping out under acceleration.

So if anyone has an opinion and/or experience with too much tire on a car please help me out here. :help

My $.02- Get the most tire you can, without having to stagger them. Seems like it would be cheaper in the long run, considering spares and rotating for even wear.

Here is where I am currently. I am about to order my custom axles for the rear end tomorrow. I hope to order the rest of the suspension components within 1 week. So that will put me pretty close to a rolling car again...minus wheels/tires.

That is where I am stuck at a fork in the road. I can't decide size to go with on the rims. My first instinct tells me WIDE, but sometimes you can have too much tire. If I get too much tire I can't keep it hot. I want to order a set of CCW rims in 18 x 10.5 front and 18 x 12 rear. I will fit them with something like 285/295-30-18 front and 335-30-18 rear. Is the rear too big to keep at operating temperature on a regular track? I'm wondering if I need to step down and go with 18 x 10 with 285/295-30-18 front and 18 x 11 w/ 315-30-18 meats.

I am planning on putting some sick power down to the rear wheels! I just am not sure about the best balance through the corners versus corner exits and the rear stepping out under acceleration.

So if anyone has an opinion and/or experience with too much tire on a car please help me out here. :help
Remember, the C6 Z06 runs 325s in the rear stock and I'm pretty sure they have no problem heating those up :D. The lightness of your car could be a factor though.

subscribed :redspot

nice job!

wow amazing work man, I love it

I don't think you would have too much trouble heating the larger tires. You do have options like going with a softer compound. In short I would find the tires I wanted to run and see what wheel widths they needed. Try to find a rim that gives you some options for multiple tires and go with that.

You can also often use a little more tire on the rear than one may on the front as a little less square a sidewall in the rear.

Also, seems as if it may be in someones best interest to make a kit that replaces the stock rear end with something of this sort. I am reading a lot and am seeing lots of mention about rear end problems.

Maybe I should just stick with the Evo...

Also, seems as if it may be in someones best interest to make a kit that replaces the stock rear end with something of this sort. I am reading a lot and am seeing lots of mention about rear end problems.


I've thought about that...I'll have to see how it turns out.

What kind of track time are preparing to run? I ran in the BMWCCA Club Racing BM class last year using 18x11 CCW's with 280/650-18 Yokohama slicks at each corner. Using the softest compound they have, treadwear wasn't a problem. My WHP and weight will probably be similar to your set-up.

If you go with 11" CCWs you should be able to do anything from 285-315 or so.

I would also consider trying to keep the same tire at all 4 corners as its nice to be able to swap things around to balance tire wear. Keeping cost down is always a bit of a factor and you should not be giving up much if any performance in the end.

awesomeness, i plan on sometime maybe next year puttin an ls1 in my 318is :D

looks like a very tough job though :eyecrazy great work

I had given thought to an LS1 swap as well until I read this. It just seems like a heck of a lot of work to do and I am not so handy nor do I care to pay someone else to do this level of work.

In short, I need dude to finish this car, get tired of it and then sell it to me. :redspot

Also, seems as if it may be in someones best interest to make a kit that replaces the stock rear end with something of this sort. I am reading a lot and am seeing lots of mention about rear end problems.

Maybe I should just stick with the Evo...

I stumbled on this thread researching a Ford 8.8 diff swap into my e38 750iL. I am looking forward to seeing your progress, and I plan to document my project too. I would like to see a kit to swap the 8.8 into various BMW models also. Don't think I want to be the one to do it though.....
Great work so far! Keep us posted. BTW, are you going to use 28 or 31 spline axles?

Bob G.

I stumbled on this thread researching a Ford 8.8 diff swap into my e38 750iL. I am looking forward to seeing your progress, and I plan to document my project too. I would like to see a kit to swap the 8.8 into various BMW models also. Don't think I want to be the one to do it though.....
Great work so far! Keep us posted. BTW, are you going to use 28 or 31 spline axles?

Bob G.

31 spline.

I like my CCW's, And they're cool guys to deal with. Gread knows how much tire for your power level, he's the one to listen too.
245629

245630

Wow! Read all 22 pages! (BTW, avipercc up above is one of my sons, and he ain't doing that LS1 swap in my puny garage! :D )

I suggest you keep some sort of parking brake, some Auto-X and Tracks have uphill and downhill starts....hard to get a great start with one foot holding the car in place!

I wish I had your room, tools, and fab skills. AAAAA+ Dude!

Line lock.

I like my CCW's, And they're cool guys to deal with. Gread knows how much tire for your power level, he's the one to listen too.
245629

245630

What size CCW's are you running? What backspacing front and rear? How much did they set you back?

What kind of track time are preparing to run? I ran in the BMWCCA Club Racing BM class last year using 18x11 CCW's with 280/650-18 Yokohama slicks at each corner. Using the softest compound they have, treadwear wasn't a problem. My WHP and weight will probably be similar to your set-up.

I don't know about track times. I don't know even what track I will run at the most. Right now I am shooting to run it at Hallet, OK. That might change by the time I get my car done as I move quite often for my job. I have no track experience, and understand that this much car is probably too much to start with. I have built this with no prior BMW build experience, and only used this forum for help.

I really depend on the advice from experienced forum members. Thanks for the advice. I might look into a non-staggered setup. It makes sence for all around balance and getting the most out of tires.

What backspacing are your CCW's and were they on an E36?

My rears are a 5" back spacing with a 15mm spacer. Fronts, I'm using the new D-force mesh style, et24 offset with 20mm spacer. The CCW's will run just under $600 each. Compared to most $1400 a piece Forgelines. You can do what me n Gread do (did) and run staggered spacing with same size tires, at least they can be rotated to different rims. Are you planning widebody? Or did you do it already and I missed it???

My rears are a 5" back spacing with a 15mm spacer. Fronts, I'm using the new D-force mesh style, et24 offset with 20mm spacer. The CCW's will run just under $600 each. Compared to most $1400 a piece Forgelines. You can do what me n Gread do (did) and run staggered spacing with same size tires, at least they can be rotated to different rims. Are you planning widebody? Or did you do it already and I missed it???

When you say you run staggered spacing w/ the same size tire....you mean that the rims are the same width, but have different backspacing/offsets? What advantage does this give you?

As of now I am not planning on a true widebody. Initially if I put this i thing into a wall or something I want to minimize my losses. I will run some cheap flares for now. Probably the 240SX flares.

Most of us are running a 280 640 18 slick but on different size rims. My fronts are 10's, my rears are 12's but if I want to mount/dismount and throw the rears to the front I can. A stretched tire is going to wear really nice in the rear and the fronts tend to roll off the edges so it's nice to flip.
There're some racers that run a 250 front and a 280 rear, thay seem happy.
You have a lot of power, as much as BMWCCA fastest. But you have a LOT more (and way more linear) torque. Will you light up 280's on exit? easily, I can with 270whp. But if you get good and gentle in your throttle application, less drag/ parasidic losses from a skinnier tire. I'd think a 305 and up is a little overkill but safe. But with 240 flares, a 285ish tire will be a good fit.

Most of us are running a 280 640 18 slick but on different size rims. My fronts are 10's, my rears are 12's but if I want to mount/dismount and throw the rears to the front I can. A stretched tire is going to wear really nice in the rear and the fronts tend to roll off the edges so it's nice to flip.
There're some racers that run a 250 front and a 280 rear, thay seem happy.
You have a lot of power, as much as BMWCCA fastest. But you have a LOT more (and way more linear) torque. Will you light up 280's on exit? easily, I can with 270whp. But if you get good and gentle in your throttle application, less drag/ parasidic losses from a skinnier tire. I'd think a 305 and up is a little overkill but safe. But with 240 flares, a 285ish tire will be a good fit.

Thanks man for all the input! I think that is the way I will start. 280/650-18 all the way around on CCW's - 18x10.5 front and 18x12 rear.

280 on a 12" is a little bit of strech, why not run the same wheel all around so you can switch front/rears.

280 on a 12" is a little bit of strech, why not run the same wheel all around so you can switch front/rears.

Well shit! You have a good point here. It would be a lot easier switching complete rims and tires vs. having to swap tires on the rims. Hmmmm....

Here is another thing I need help with. Front control arm bushings...centered or offset. I am purchasing the BimmerWorld E36 camber correcting front control arms w/ the offset outer bearings.

Do I want the centered or offset front control arm bearings (I'm refering to the ones in the lollie pops)?

Yup, same tire and wheel at all corners is a pretty fair thought. 11" CCWs would still cover a pretty wide range of shoes as well. ;)


If you go with 11" CCWs you should be able to do anything from 285-315 or so.

I would also consider trying to keep the same tire at all 4 corners as its nice to be able to swap things around to balance tire wear. Keeping cost down is always a bit of a factor and you should not be giving up much if any performance in the end.

Sorry, meant 11's on mine. I was just waking up! I don't know that the offsets would be anywhere near similar front to rear with those flares.

What size CCW's are you running? What backspacing front and rear? How much did they set you back?
His backspacing won't help you much, he is running an MAShaw kit. Might want to talk to Terry and find out the specs on the CCW's he is running since we used the 240SX flares on the Alpha car for a while.

If I end up building a 3 series I am stealing ideas from several of these builds.

Great stuff all.

His backspacing won't help you much, he is running an MAShaw kit. Might want to talk to Terry and find out the specs on the CCW's he is running since we used the 240SX flares on the Alpha car for a while.

CCW might even know since they sell so many wheels to the BMW world. I will also confirm with Terry when I order some stuff from Vorshlag very soon:redspot.

I used 18x11 all around. I'd have to ask Turner for the backspacing, but it was set-up to use no spacer on the front rims and a 15mm on the rear. I also had an MA Shaw widebody kit. You can ask for Kevin Holmes @ Turner about suspension specifics. He has all the info necessary to get the car hooked up.

Finally found time to order my custom axles. They were not cheap, but they will hold up to 1000+ hp!!!:redspot

E36's can run almost 7" of backspace. I would run 6-6.5 just to be safe. And my 11" CCW's have a 6" backspace and I do still have plenty of room on the inside.

Just talk to CCW and they'll tell you what you need to know.

E36's can run almost 7" of backspace. I would run 6-6.5 just to be safe. And my 11" CCW's have a 6" backspace and I do still have plenty of room on the inside.

Just talk to CCW and they'll tell you what you need to know.
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/123706311_4iUDg-S.jpg

Yep, Hanchey's previous set of 17x9.5" CCWs had 6.9" of backspace and worked on the rear of our E36 STU car with no spacer and a 255/40/17. We always shoot for that backspace on E36 rear wheels that are max width. With your car you can hammer the inner sheetmetal a bit and clear that much backspace easily. The more inboard you can keep the wheel the more ultimate wheel & tire width you can fit with less flare/track width/aero drag outboard.

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/photos/310758330_eQ54d-S.jpg

Note the pic above - that's a 17x11 CCW that's as inboard as it can go (6.9" backspace) and the 275mm tire is covered easily by the E46 sedan fender flares. This fender can cover a 315 with ease. The front is made to work with a 285 but that set-up there (17x10 and 275) is pushed out more than I like. We had more spacer on than we needed but it wasn't rubbing so I left it alone. It can go inboard about .5" from where it is shown.

Just got more parts ordered. Roll center correcting control arms, offset control arm spherical bearings, adjustable bumpsteer tie rods , rear subframe bushings, and a couple other things I'm forgetting. I'll have some pictures when they come in.

rear subframe bushings.

Are you just modifying the stock subframe to accept the new diff? I figured you'd just fab up a new subframe and call it a day.

Are you just modifying the stock subframe to accept the new diff? I figured you'd just fab up a new subframe and call it a day.

Yea, I'm modifying the stock one. It was just too hard to try and make a new one and keep the suspension mounting points exactly aligned with the tools I have.

Hey Bryan, did you get my PM a few days ago?

Hey Bryan, did you get my PM a few days ago?

replied.

I just got back in town and had some parts waiting at my door.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1410.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1411.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1412.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1413.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1414.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1415.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1417.jpg

nice pieces Colin. are those from Bimmerworld or RRT? you gotta get that thing finished and bring it to Hallett before the end of the year.

nice pieces Colin. are those from Bimmerworld or RRT? you gotta get that thing finished and bring it to Hallett before the end of the year.

Looks like the Bimmerworls setup.

Yep it's Bimmerworld's setup.

I hope to have it done by late fall. I have just been working so much lately I can't get time to work on the car. I have been out of town 24 of the past 30 days.

I found a little time to work on the diff swap before I have to go out of town again.:mad I had some 1/2" plate steel (I wish I had 3/8") laying around so I started the brackets for the dog bone to the diff. Nothing fancy...just strong. I decided to dust off my stick welder instead of putting a bigger spool of wire in the mig welder. My fillet welds are good, but the butt welds could use some work. I set the bracket in place, but I still have to drill the mounting holes. Hopefully next time I get a chance to work on it I can get the passenger side done as well.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1418.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1422.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1421.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1424.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1426.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1427.jpg

Dude... are you building a track car or a Baja truck? ;)

Dude... are you building a track car or a Baja truck? ;)

It will get some lightening holes or pockets. Don't worry. ;)

I finally found an LS1/T56 at a price I thought was reasonable. I picked it up today in OKC from American Camaro and Firebird (I highly recommend). It is out of a '00 Trans Am w/ 97K miles. It is clean as could be on the outside. When I went to pick it up today I walked in to pay and noticed an LS6 manifold sitting on the floor. I figured why not and bought it. I also have a set of LS6 heads and an LS6 cam on the way from Texas (out of a friends '04 CTS-V) that will be here tomorrow. All said and done I should start out with around 420hp (~360 rwhp). I also went by UPS and picked up my axles. They are Cobra inners and M3 outters and should take about the abuse of about 1000 hp.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1533.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1534.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1535.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1538.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1539.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1540.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1542.jpg

Man, only 360rwhp? Thats S54 territory. I thought you were going to do like a 600hp V8...?

Whats the next engine phase for HP bump? Whats changed?

Man, only 360rwhp? Thats S54 territory. I thought you were going to do like a 600hp V8...?

Whats the next engine phase for HP bump? Whats changed?

Nothing has changed. I'm staying minimal until I get some half decent track skills. I don't want to be doing something stupid and totaling this thing. The HP will come in time...just be patient grasshopper.

What did that combo set you back?

Doug

What did that combo set you back?

Doug

I got the LS1/T56 for $3250 (smoking deal other than the 97K miles). The LS6 intake was $350. I think my buddy is selling me the LS6 heads and cam for around $300.

I got the LS1/T56 for $3250 (smoking deal other than the 97K miles). The LS6 intake was $350. I think my buddy is selling me the LS6 heads and cam for around $300.

That's a decent deal man. I wouldn't worry about the mileage. If the motor was maintained, those engines will run a very long time.

Doug

Will you finish this car up, get tired of it and sell it to me already?!

Well I got a good bit of work done one the car today, and yesterday I spent messing around with the motor. I found some disturbing this with the LS1. I first pulled the plugs to do a compression check and noticed that one had some small amounts of rust on it. When I turned the motor over a sizable amount of water came spewing out of that cylinder (#2). When I did a compression test the numbers were all over the board. As follows:

#1: 130 psi
#2: 115 psi
#3: 150 psi
#4: 185 psi
#5: 160 psi
#6: 170 psi
#7: 165 psi
#8: 150 psi

I know the results are not totally accurate due to the fact that I tested a cold engine, but I figured that there would be more consistency. I got looking around the motor and noticed wire splice leads on the throttle position sensor. The only thing that ties into that is a throttle switch for nitrous. I also found that the schrader valve was missing from the fuel rail. That tells me that at one point this motor had nitrous on it. I called the business where I picked the motor up and informed them of my findings. He assured me that the water got in the cylinder when they pressure washed the engine off. The schrader valve was leaking so they took it out to find a replacement, and forgot to put one back in it. I don't know if I believe all this, but he did say that when I get it running if there is a problem that they would take care of it. So, for the time being I fogged the cylinders with oil am going to wait to see how it runs. I won't be swapping the LS6 stuff on yet. I'll wait to make sure this engine runs ok.

I got my cage 99.9% finished today. I added the harness bar and the lower windshield diagonal braces. All I have to do now is a couple tacos on the door bars. After that I can start getting the inside and underside prepped for paint.

Due to the cage, I haven't been able to fully bolt in the steering column support. Today I fixed that, so now it bolts directly into the cage.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1544.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1547.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1555.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1556.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1557.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1560.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1561.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1562.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1563.jpg

Hmmm... from the pictures I would also agree it possibly had nitrous. If I were you, I would type up the facts that you found after taking delivery of the engine and go to the shop and have them sign it stating that if there was a problem after startup that they would rectify the situation. I would be concerned.

The cage looks sweet by the way!

Doug

You probably have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Pull the head and have a look. You probably have to pull the pistonas well, since the ring will be corroded and siezed in the piston.
Bummer.... good luck

Yeah.. so they are saying that the pressure washer shot water into the cylinder how exactly? Through a non-existent spark plug? I would get everything they said in writing for sure.. and am going to go ahead and raise the flag on them:

:bs

If it were anything it would be a blown head gasket, but what I don't understand is that the head gasket blew right as the car wrecked (it came out of a car that rolled over)? Thanks for the advice on documentation. I have a written 90 day warranty, but if it looks like I can't get this thing running in 2 months or less I will go back and get something else in writing.

The cage looks good, sorry to hear about about the motor problems. What was the guys response when you told him that the TPS was spliced??? On a side note, my experience when checking compression on motors that have been sitting, or no oil, is that they can vary wildly. If you were to put some oil in cyclinder #2, I bet you would see a big increase in compression. If the cylinder had water in it (pictured) then it probably got the cylinder washed clean of oil, and if there is truely rust in the bore it definately wont seat on the ring land. Good Luck!

The cage looks good, sorry to hear about about the motor problems. What was the guys response when you told him that the TPS was spliced??? On a side note, my experience when checking compression on motors that have been sitting, or no oil, is that they can vary wildly. If you were to put some oil in cyclinder #2, I bet you would see a big increase in compression. If the cylinder had water in it (pictured) then it probably got the cylinder washed clean of oil, and if there is truely rust in the bore it definately wont seat on the ring land. Good Luck!

I'm on the same page as you as far as the cylinder variation. I know it has been sitting a while, and I am giving him the benefit of doubt. I just have to get my butt in gear now to get the car running so I can check compression on a warm motor. That will be the true test.

As for the spliced TPS connector, he didn't say much other than when he got the car it didn't have nitrous. I believe him on that one. If I wrecked my car I would get all the performance stuff off it before I turned it into insurance. I believe he is telling me the truth to the best of his knowledge.

I'm on the same page as you as far as the cylinder variation. I know it has been sitting a while, and I am giving him the benefit of doubt. I just have to get my butt in gear now to get the car running so I can check compression on a warm motor. That will be the true test.

As for the spliced TPS connector, he didn't say much other than when he got the car it didn't have nitrous. I believe him on that one. If I wrecked my car I would get all the performance stuff off it before I turned it into insurance. I believe he is telling me the truth to the best of his knowledge.

If the engine was seating for too long and had (or not) water inside the cylinders, I will recomend to treat it as an old classic engine, there are some steps you can take to give you the best chances to get it running like before...

also some sea foam in the oil, spark plug hole and gas can help if you have a case of sticky rings!

good luck

If the engine was seating for too long and had (or not) water inside the cylinders, I will recomend to treat it as an old classic engine, there are some steps you can take to give you the best chances to get it running like before...

also some sea foam in the oil, spark plug hole and gas can help if you have a case of sticky rings!

good luck

I know the engine hasn't been sitting that long. LS1's move fast. This guy said that he has a hard time keeping them in stock.

I got the door bar braces done tonight. Nothing special, just some 16 gage sheet metal. I might think about doing A-pillar and/or B-pillar braces tomorrow night. I'm trying to get all the last small details wrapped up before this weekend. That's my goal to get it painted. I have help coming town so, I should get the paint on the bottom and inside the car.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1573.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1574.jpg

This is a nice build (been following for awhile). But I too have to speak up about the condition of that engine. It's impossible for water to get into the cylinder with the plugs in. Unless he cracked open the trottle body and just blasted away. You're overlooking what's right in front of you and being humiliated by the seller. That's a costly mistake to make.

Assuming all the Plugs were tight....it's not unheard for a plug to not be tighted correctly and working itself loose....

This is a nice build (been following for awhile). But I too have to speak up about the condition of that engine. It's impossible for water to get into the cylinder with the plugs in. Unless he cracked open the trottle body and just blasted away. You're overlooking what's right in front of you and being humiliated by the seller. That's a costly mistake to make.

I understand the situation fully. Trust me nothing is being overlooked. I know something is wrong with the motor. I have to do what the business wants me to do so I can prove to them that there is something wrong. Trust me, I am not and will not be humiliated. But thanks.

My brother came in town Friday night to help me prep the car and lay down some paint. Prep work SUCKS! It was worth is as the car looks good. We got the bottom and engine bay done yesterday. Hopefully today the inside will get done. I also got the BW rear trailing arm reinforcements welded in. They make that area solid!

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1575.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1576.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1578.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1579.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1580.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1582.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1585.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1583.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1584.jpg

Damn that is a sweet job. You guys are moving right along.

Doug

Nicely done, missed a week, but have been following you since day one, looks great.

As for the water in the cylinder, it is possible for a pressure washer to flip the butterfly open and if that partiucular intake valve was open a little water could get in there. That plug doesnt appear to have been in water very long, and if it were a headgasket or a cracked head, there should have been more water. Not to mention the color of the water is wrong (if the guy was running coolant). Keep up the good work, and hurry up already! I want to see this thing running!

Did you used Epoxy paint for the floor and inside? It's very resistant from scratching. That's what I used in mine.

Did you used Epoxy paint for the floor and inside? It's very resistant from scratching. That's what I used in mine.

It is Du-Pont Industrial Coating Imron 3.5 HG-D. It is an acrylic polyurethane based paint with an activator. It goes on thick and dosen't require a primer. You can apply it directly to bare metal. After letting the car sit for a week I can say that this stuff is tuff! I think it is what Caterpillar uses to paint their bulldozer blades with.:D

Who's that shooting Imron without a supplied-air breathing system?

Urethane paints contain isocyanates, which are a particularly nasty neurotoxin. There's no respirator that works or is certified either. It's supplied air only.

Be careful with this sort of thing. Irreversible brain damage is a be-yotch.

:buttrockWOW! You're doing sucha awesome job with this Great pics and info

How much time you got into this so far??

I hope you had some good help with this home project, This seems like ALOT of work for one person to do!

I just spent the past 3 hrs goin through this thread in awe of the detail and craftsmanship WELL DONE SIR!, BRAVO!

Who's that shooting Imron without a supplied-air breathing system?

Urethane paints contain isocyanates, which are a particularly nasty neurotoxin. There's no respirator that works or is certified either. It's supplied air only.

Be careful with this sort of thing. Irreversible brain damage is a be-yotch.

We only shot it for a couple minutes before using the respirator. Thanks for the advice on this stuff. If I have to spray it anymore I will be more careful.


:buttrockWOW! You're doing sucha awesome job with this Great pics and info

How much time you got into this so far??

I could only estimate, but it is probably around 450-550 hours so far.


I hope you had some good help with this home project, This seems like ALOT of work for one person to do!

I just spent the past 3 hrs goin through this thread in awe of the detail and craftsmanship WELL DONE SIR!, BRAVO!

I had my brother come up to help spray the car. He did the majority of the bottom and the engine bay while I welded his aluminum subframe back together on his 636 stunt bike. I got screwed and had to leave town early Sunday morning, so he finished the inside. I also had a buddy come up and help me for a day or two on the cage, but I ended up ripping it out and starting over because I messed up and made my first roll hoop too small. Other than that I haven't had any help.

Here is the inside finished.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1605.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1606.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1607.jpg

That's going to be hard to keep clean when you are working in there ;)

Car looks good.

So I have been running into problems all day. I installed one the drivers side spherical CAB. It was really tight so I lightly sanded it, and I still had to press it on. I got it on fine, but the passenger side didn't work so good. I took a small amount off the outside just like the drivers side. As I was pressing it on there I heard a pop and it started to go on a lot easier. I stopped and looked and found a problem. The spherical ball had cracked. It looks like the sleeve that fits outside the control arm and inside the spherical bearing must have been slightly out of tolerance. I'll call the vendor early next week and see if I can get a new sleeve and bearing.

It is always something!

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1609.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1608.jpg

damn Colin, that cage looks awesome. wanna trade cars? :D

sorry to hear about the problems. hope it works out.

only thing I have to add is.....if you removed the bottom edge of the doors, you'll get dirt and rubber in the car. my car gets real dirty inside on the track, mainly because of all the dirt and rubber being thrown up through the cracks under the doors. so bad I've considered welding and sealing my rear doors up. :(

any plans for a fuel cell?

damn Colin, that cage looks awesome. wanna trade cars? :D

sorry to hear about the problems. hope it works out.

only thing I have to add is.....if you removed the bottom edge of the doors, you'll get dirt and rubber in the car. my car gets real dirty inside on the track, mainly because of all the dirt and rubber being thrown up through the cracks under the doors. so bad I've considered welding and sealing my rear doors up. :(

any plans for a fuel cell?

Thanks for the heads up on the doors. I'll see how it goes, but if it is a problem I will probably get some 3/4" square foam tape that is self adhesive and make a seal that butts up against the door skin. That shouldn't add hardly any weight.

At the moment I have no plans for a fuel cell. I am going to wait and get the car on the scales and see how bad my front to rear weight ratio is off. If it is too bad I will put a fuel cell in the back.

cool. i bought a set of scales if you ever want to come down and weigh it.

cool. i bought a set of scales if you ever want to come down and weigh it.

I'll take you up on that offer when I get the car going!:redspot

Got the BimmerWorld roll center correcting control arms figured out today. When you weld the spacers to the king pin it is a pretty slick system. I don't know how much strength welding adds, but it makes it a cleaner install with less pieces when you are all said and done. I posted a mini how-to in the main Track and Auto-X section.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1046141

My Z3 steering rack got dug out of the attic today. I also got my aluminum flywheel for the LS1 yesterday.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1619.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1623.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1624.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1627.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1628.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1629.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1630.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1635.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1638.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1637.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1639.jpg

Why not remove the rotor backing plates?

wow, looks super clean, like a brand new car.:buttrock

Why not remove the rotor backing plates?

I am still going to replace the wheel bearings, so I will take them off then in one piece. I am still doing my brake research. Don't know if I'm going to stay w/ the stock M3 calipers and run a brake cooling kit or go with a big brake kit.

Sir, I just spent the last 2 hours + a hour last night reading your entire thread, and I am super impressed. I can't wait to see how awesome it turns out!

Incredible work! Great to see this amazing engine swapped into another amazing chassis!

-Andrew

'93 RX-7- LS6/T56

chevy engines do not belong in BMW's...but i could be wrong

You probally wouldnt be saying that if you actually drove one of these ls1 swapped e36.

all i have to say is i am so jealous of your whole setup and everything you are doing!

its gonna be so sick after it gets done!

Another checking in for a front to back full read! (Okay more like looked at all the pics.) Very nice dude!

okjso i will be using alot of your ideas in my track e21 project. Very nice work. keep it up. oh and if you plan on coming to the east coast to race it let me know i would like to really look this car over.

Thanks guys for all the props!

I am currently still having problems with the front LCA spherical bearings. It is hard to get this solved with me being out of town so much. I will post up the problem in detail with some pics when I have a chance.

well I must say you have done a fantastic job, in what has to be the biggest thread I have see an in any forum anywhere on the internet!

I am in a similar position to you atm.

A mechanic friend of mine here in Sydney (Australia that is) had a client who had a E36 M3 1994.

He had spent to date about AUD150,000 bringing the car to the point of putting the six cylinder back in (which had blown) when he had to pull out of the project due to divorce.......thems the brakes

Anyway, the car is very similar to yours, full cage, race suspension, race brakes, stainless braided everything....you get the picture. Complimented with new paint job in bright orange after bare metal respray.

Anyway I have just bought the car (next week actually) and after discussion with said mechanic had canned the M3 six and yesterday bought an LS3.

This is a brand new engine.

HSV who are basically Holden's AMG have just released the W427, which has the LS7, so in a rather strange sense, HSV build the car as what is called a Senator with the LS3, then truck it elsewhere for the new LS7 to be slotted in. So there is a dealer in Sydney who has a stock of the fresh LS3's that need new homes. For AUD6,950 i think that is good buying.

So yesterday i rocked up to Sam's Performance and after half and hour of discussion with Sam, put my money down on a LS3. We are going to run it on the engine dyno to try out some cam/header options may also consider a stroker to take it out to 420ci (ish). Point being i down want a lumpy thing, rather a nice smooth delivery, good power, say 525hp and peak power at say 6,500 with readline of 7,000.

My mechanic will have a slot for me to take in the workshop in three months to kicked start the final chapter in what we hope will be a Dec/Jan completion

Anyway, love you work and look forward to seeing you finish

Best,

Dave

Nice car. Makes me wish the economy would come around as it's affecting me BIG time....
An E30 with the same build quality and LS1 for XP would be really fun.(and give me a chance to fix the rear suspension)

Updates?

I have been out of town for the past 3 weeks and just got home tonight, so progress in none. I did pick up a used front and rear set of UUC stage 2 brakes w/ the Wilwood 4 piston calipers. I'll post pics tomorrow.

I currently have my M3 torn down replacing all worn bushings in the rear end. I am also swapping out the front poly LCAB's with a set of the new UUC LCAB's. I'm just tired of that thing having so much road noise and extra vibration from the poly.

Cool....thanks for the reply.....looking forward to see how this comes out!

Here is the pics of the brakes I picked up. It is UUC's stage II w/ the 2 piece front rotors. The front rotors are cracked more that I thought they would be. I know this is normal for tracked cars, but is this amount normal?

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1713.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1714.jpg

as a technician i would say use the calipers but replace the rotors. that is a lot of cracking

Anyone else care to comment? When I purchased them I was told that they probably had 50% of life left in them. Anyone think otherwise?

Anyone else care to comment? When I purchased them I was told that they probably had 50% of life left in them. Anyone think otherwise?

Can you feel the cracks with your fingernail? If it were my car, I'd replace them for sure.

those rotors are junk unless you're cruisin' the street

I just opened a bottle of captain morgan and started on page one...here I am an hour and a half later amazed and 3\4 empty...awesome build

well here. go to a local shop and have the rotors cut. if the cracks go away then te rotors will be ok. if you can still see the cracks then the rotors are garbage.

I would not bother with the 2 piece rotors ... just get good OE blanks, or upgrage to proper 2 piece rotors (like the PF rotors).

I would not bother with the 2 piece rotors ... just get good OE blanks, or upgrage to proper 2 piece rotors (like the PF rotors).

What is the big advantage with the PF rotors?

What is the big advantage with the PF rotors?

I think one of the highlightened features are the Double-shear bobbin attachment design. It allows both radial and axial expansion. Overall its just a very high precision piece.

http://jaffster.com/E46M3/12-8-06/main/pc070014.jpg

those rotors are junk unless you're cruisin' the street

Yes

They are trash, I will not sell anyone a set of rotors in those conditions; you can drive on them for a bit, but don't bet your life on them "in case of a hard emergency brake situation".

I had the same problem in my turbo car, I was on 325 brakes w/axxis ult. pads and cross/slotted rotors. I really didn't needed more braking even with 400whp but they were getting to hot, then I'd did a fog light delete with proper cooling ducts and got the issue went away..... Also improper cooling can cause this issues, some club racers had to use multiple angles of cooling to get the rotor to cool down at an even rate....

Awesome project! Subscribed.

Update: So all the problems that I have been having is related to the spherical control arm bearings. I got the drivers side on no problem. The passenger side was a HUGE problem. The first bearing cracked when I pressed it on. I called BW and they said that I shouldn't have pressed it on. They told me to use other methods besides a press. They also had me measure a sleeve that goes over the control arm. I did and it was about .015" larger that what it should have been. They sent me 2 new spherical bearings and 2 new sleeves. I measured the sleeves and they were right on. I installed the new sleeve on the control arm then started to 'beat' the spherical bearing assembly on with a brass hammer (since they told me not to press it). After what seemed like hours of beating the bearing on it finally gave way and cracked again. At this point I was so f-ing pissed that I didn't know what to do. I grabbed the sandpaper and started in on the sleeve. I sanded the sleeve for quite a while and grabbed bearing #3. This time I went back to the press because it worked for the drivers side bearing. It got a most of the way on and finally cracked. At this point I was more pissed that I have ever been. I called BW and they told me that they would get me one more bearing. I asked for the OD of the control arm where the bushing gets pressed on...but they didn't know. I asked for the ID for the sleeve...they didn't have that info either. I was told sand it until it fit.

I tore everything apart and started calipering everything. Turns out that the BMW control arm was out of spec by .010"-.015". When I measured the sleeve BEFORE I pressed it on the control arm it was the correct OD. After I pressed it on the control arm it was too large. I calipered it before I installed it, but it never dawned on me to re-caliper it after I installed it. I know BW dosen't make the castings for their control arms they sell, but that should be part of the quality checks that they do for them. It caused me a huge headache! I know the guy I was dealing with a BW thinks I'm an idiot for cracking 3 bearings some how.

I'm not trying to bash BW at all, but I just didn't get all the technical specs (OD's and ID's) that I thought they should have regarding these parts. I will say that there were always very prompt getting back with me and did what they had to get everything resolved.

I did get the rest of the front end put together with the BW tie rods. Everything went together nicely. I also got my street tires in about a week ago. BFG G-Force T/A 285/30-18. They are HUGE! I also got my new toolbox in this week. I figured that you guys are some of the few that could appreciate it like I do.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1609.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1608.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1719.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1717.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/MoparMuscl/DSCN1716.jpg

You can check Massivebrakes.com if you are looking for 2 pice rotors, they are the best for the price and replacements parts are easy to find and cheap. As other people mentionned, you should get plain rotors instead of cross drilled, they should last longer.

I wonder if you risk the driver's side cracking because you pressed it on? The fit shouldn't be that tight requiring a press, should it?

Doug

I wonder if you risk the driver's side cracking because you pressed it on? The fit shouldn't be that tight requiring a press, should it?

Doug

I thought about that, but my shop press has a gage that measures force. The drivers side went on with about 1/2 of force as the passenger side.

I thought about that, but my shop press has a gage that measures force. The drivers side went on with about 1/2 of force as the passenger side.

Makes sense.

Doug

Colin,
I have the same brake calipers....you'll love them. get some PFC pads...they rock. I have the PF direct drive rotors also...after almost a year of racing they show minimal wear. Get some brake ducting too, and remove those backing plates.

wow 100% kick ass! i live here in wellston bout 20 mins away from OKC ill have to come check this thing out first hand some time.

For the track, I have PF DirectDrives and PF01s. Don't use them for autocrossing though. They work on the street, but they needs to be warm for maximum effectiveness. I'd recommend Hawk HP+ for the street or something with some real bite! I've just finished day one of two (BMW CCA HPDE) and after some initial shimmy, the pads bedded and material transferred completely, making everything feel really strong. I have SS lines and Motul fluid. Tomorrow I might get to some hard braking laps in a row to really test them. We'll see how my lines are.

i just noticed....you have the UUC stage III kit, not the stage II. difference is the rear caliper (F and R are the same for stage III)

Mine are also stage III, and despite saying this THREE TIMES over the phone when I called to order new brake pads from UUC, they still sent the wrong rear pads :mad (are you listening, UUC?). I'll be calling them back Monday.

Update: So all the problems that I have been having is related to the spherical control arm bearings. I got the drivers side on no problem. The passenger side was a HUGE problem. The first bearing cracked when I pressed it on. I called BW and they said that I shouldn't have pressed it on. They told me to use other methods besides a press. They also had me measure a sleeve that goes over the control arm. I did and it was about .015" larger that what it should have been. They sent me 2 new spherical bearings and 2 new sleeves. I measured the sleeves and they were right on. I installed the new sleeve on the control arm then started to 'beat' the spherical bearing assembly on with a brass hammer (since they told me not to press it). After what seemed like hours of beating the bearing on it finally gave way and cracked again. At this point I was so f-ing pissed that I didn't know what to do. I grabbed the sandpaper and started in on the sleeve. I sanded the sleeve for quite a while and grabbed bearing #3. This time I went back to the press because it worked for the drivers side bearing. It got a most of the way on and finally cracked. At this point I was more pissed that I have ever been. I called BW and they told me that they would get me one more bearing. I asked for the OD of the control arm where the bushing gets pressed on...but they didn't know. I asked for the ID for the sleeve...they didn't have that info either. I was told sand it until it fit.

I tore everything apart and started calipering everything. Turns out that the BMW control arm was out of spec by .010"-.015". When I measured the sleeve BEFORE I pressed it on the control arm it was the correct OD. After I pressed it on the control arm it was too large. I calipered it before I installed it, but it never dawned on me to re-caliper it after I installed it. I know BW dosen't make the castings for their control arms they sell, but that should be part of the quality checks that they do for them. It caused me a huge headache! I know the guy I was dealing with a BW thinks I'm an idiot for cracking 3 bearings some how.

I'm not trying to bash BW at all, but I just didn't get all the technical specs (OD's and ID's) that I thought they should have regarding these parts. I will say that there were always very prompt getting back with me and did what they had to get everything resolved.



I had a similar problem when installing my new Ground Control delrin LCABs on new Lemfoeder (sp?) control arms. The control arms are designed to be used with rubber LCABs. Therefore, not a need for critical tolerences on the rear, machined end of the arm. Mine were considerably different. After being unable to get the sleeves on fully using a press I wound up sending mine to Jay @ Ground Control and he was good enough to machine each sleeve to fit properly. Good service.... problem solved.

Jay

I had a similar problem when installing my new Ground Control delrin LCABs on new Lemfoeder (sp?) control arms. The control arms are designed to be used with rubber LCABs. Therefore, not a need for critical tolerences on the rear, machined end of the arm. Mine were considerably different. After being unable to get the sleeves on fully using a press I wound up sending mine to Jay @ Ground Control and he was good enough to machine each sleeve to fit properly. Good service.... problem solved.

Jay


If that is a somewhat known problem I wish that they would tell you to measure the control arm before hand. I wasted 4-5 weeks with this problem....kinda sucks. Wish someone @ BW would have helped me figure out this problem. It got resolved eventually, but I felt like I had to do all the leg work to find a solution. I guess I can't bitch that much because BW was good enought to keep getting me spherical bearings after they cracked.

i just noticed....you have the UUC stage III kit, not the stage II. difference is the rear caliper (F and R are the same for stage III)

Mine are also stage III, and despite saying this THREE TIMES over the phone when I called to order new brake pads from UUC, they still sent the wrong rear pads :mad (are you listening, UUC?). I'll be calling them back Monday.

Good to know. I'll be very clear when ordering pads. I haven't looked at the extra pads that came with it, but the ones currently on the calipers are junk. They are worn baddly at an angle.

Amazing build and craftsmanship