What is going on here guys? I just went over a little lip on the road that was no more than 2" high at the speed of no more than 10MPH, and now I started to hear some faint clunky noise on uneven road at low speed:mad. I don't know about you guys but this kind of noise is really bug the hell out of me. I think I gonna get under the car soon with a 5 LBS mallet and try to find out, I know it is not going to be easy though. Would any body want to take a shot at it?

What is going on here guys? I just went over a little lip on the road that was no more than 2" high at the speed of no more than 10MPH, and now I started to hear some faint clunky noise on uneven road at low speed:mad. I don't know about you guys but this kind of noise is really bug the hell out of me. I think I gonna get under the car soon with a 5 LBS mallet and try to find out, I know it is not going to be easy though. Would any body want to take a shot at it?

I'll make you a dollar bet it's a sway bar link.

Could be one of the ball joints on the forward or rear control arms. I recently replaced a forward control arm because the ball joint was extremely loose and clunked going over bumps. You can get a rough check of these by getting the wheel off of the ground and grab the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to wiggle the wheel. If there is play and you hear the clunking, its a bad ball joint.

I'll make you a dollar bet it's a sway bar link.

I tend to agree.

I'll make you a dollar bet it's a sway bar link.

+1 ...I had the same symptoms ..turned out to be the sway bar links

I'll bet you two dollars it's sway bar links.

If you need them changed, let me know. You MUST buy OEM sway bar links, MUST. They're $35.00 each.

Does the clunking vary with speed or increase when cornering? It could be a bad tranny mount, which was the problem on my E32 750iL. A cheap fix 4sure. Just something else to look into...GL.

I'll bet you two dollars it's sway bar links.

If you need them changed, let me know. You MUST buy OEM sway bar links, MUST. They're $35.00 each.

Why the "MUST". Would you mind sharing?

Well guys,

Went under the car and started to poke around. All control arms ( thrust, lower, upper you name it) seem very solid. The only play that I found was in the inner right side tie rod. Tie rods are easy to replace but the pain is you've got to get an alignment done.

Does the clunking vary with speed or increase when cornering? It could be a bad tranny mount, which was the problem on my E32 750iL. A cheap fix 4sure. Just something else to look into...GL.

I can only hear a faint clunky when go over bumps at slow speed less than 15MPH.

Why the "MUST". Would you mind sharing?

Quality.

I've found most people don't know how to check their sway bar joints, upper and lower.

I can only hear a faint clunky when go over bumps at slow speed less than 15MPH.

I'll bet three dollars it's your sway bar link.

Could be a bad tie rod bushing, which would explain the clunk at low speeds over bumps. Keep us up-to-date...

If there is no vibration in the wheel at higher speeds, it makes you dwell on the sway bar links.

Me? Depending on the mileage, I'd change it all, upper/lower control arms (complete units), tie rods and sway bar links. Or spend $70.00 on links and start there.

Quality.

I've found most people don't know how to check their sway bar joints, upper and lower.

Hey Bimmerfiver,

I checked them both way load or no load seem to be solid. How would you do it? I may have missed something.

+1 I bet it's the sway bar links as well. Find your front sway bar follow it along to each end. At the end of the right and left side is a hole drilled into the sway bar. Connected is a bar about 6 inches to 9 inches long that runs perpendicular to the ground. This link tends to rattle within the hole when driving over bumps at slow speeds. Happened to me. I thought it was something more severe but when I brought it to the dealer, was charged $200 for replacing them. Happened shortly after I bought my car used and before I found this forum. Now I know, I could've easily done them myself with my eyes closed. These are easy to replace yourself. 30 mins and $35 each clunking noise will be gone.

Hey Bimmerfiver,

I checked them both way load or no load seem to be solid. How would you do it? I may have missed something.

How many miles are on your current suspension?

Wheels off ground, grab a lower sway bar ball joint. Rock it back and forth, from the front to rear of the car, it'll wiggle. It should be very difficult to do so. Go to other side of car and do the same. Is there is difference in level of difficulty it takes to move it, is it easier?

Then do the uppers link ball joints, same thing.

You most likely can't ever duplicate that clunking noise, but if you sense a feeling in your hand and can tell one joint is much easier to move, then you know.

They're what, $30.00 each (go with Lemforder OEM, nothing less) and take 15 minutes to replace.

Tie rods are easy to check. Look at your upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints. Look at the struts and strut mounts. But go to the sway bar linkys first.

How many miles are on your current suspension?

Wheels off ground, grab a lower sway bar ball joint. Rock it back and forth, from the front to rear of the car, it'll wiggle. It should be very difficult to do so. Go to other side of car and do the same. Is there is difference in level of difficulty it takes to move it, is it easier?

Then do the uppers link ball joints, same thing.

You most likely can't ever duplicate that clunking noise, but if you sense a feeling in your hand and can tell one joint is much easier to move, then you know.

They're what, $30.00 each (go with Lemforder OEM, nothing less) and take 15 minutes to replace.

Tie rods are easy to check. Look at your upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints. Look at the struts and strut mounts. But go to the sway bar linkys first.

Thanks Bimmerfiver, thank you for the lengthy explaination. I'll check them end links again.

I just got the car about three months ago, it has 90K miles, but you wouldn't know it, this thing is silkenly smooth, there's huge difference in a 528 vs 530 ( ask me how I know, my old car 97 528 is now my wife's:paranoid:)
There's no vibration whatsoever during hard braking or high speed, this thing can get up and go for a 6 cylinder if you know what I mean, I love this car:alright

Thanks Bimmerfiver, thank you for the lengthy explaination. I'll check them end links again.

I just got the car about three months ago, it has 90K miles, but you wouldn't know it, this thing is silkenly smooth, there's huge difference in a 528 vs 530 ( ask me how I know, my old car 97 528 is now my wife's:paranoid:)
There's no vibration whatsoever during hard braking or high speed, this thing can get up and go for a 6 cylinder if you know what I mean, I love this car:alright

And when you change the sway bar links, get new nuts. I don't believe they come with new ones, they're a $1.50 each and worth it. Put them on making sure they're not spinning (you need another wrench to hold the bolt from spinning) and tighten them down super tight. Snug is not enough, must be super tight.

I'll make you a dollar bet it's a sway bar link.

Agree sounds familiar.

So, so far I've got 7 dollars on the sway bars. Well, you guys sound so convincing that I just went ahead and order them from Autohaus for $32 each, Oh yeh (Lempfoerter of course! just for you Bimmerfiver) I also bought the tie rods just in case.

I'll be back with the result. I'll be rooting for you guys, if the outcome is the sway bar I owe each of you a beer if not then you guys owe me a virtue beer:drink1. Thanks for all the help.

My 540 had some faint clunking going on at slow speeds but only on really small imperfections in the road, like a 25mph zone going down a fleshly paved road! Turned out to be the struts and mounts. One started to leak (the car has 140K) so it was past time for these to go. Once I replaced them, zero clunk of any kind. The car feels new. This was my theory, since it was the only thing I couldn't really check, and every other component was tight. Turned out I was right.

My 540 had some faint clunking going on at slow speeds but only on really small imperfections in the road, like a 25mph zone going down a fleshly paved road! Turned out to be the struts and mounts. One started to leak (the car has 140K) so it was past time for these to go. Once I replaced them, zero clunk of any kind. The car feels new. This was my theory, since it was the only thing I couldn't really check, and every other component was tight. Turned out I was right.

Did you replace control arms at all??

My 540 had some faint clunking going on at slow speeds but only on really small imperfections in the road, like a 25mph zone going down a fleshly paved road! Turned out to be the struts and mounts. One started to leak (the car has 140K) so it was past time for these to go. Once I replaced them, zero clunk of any kind. The car feels new. This was my theory, since it was the only thing I couldn't really check, and every other component was tight. Turned out I was right.


My 540 does the same thing. However the condition only presents itself after the car is warm, so was thinking the strut/mounts as well because of this. The longer I drive it, the worse the pop/clunking gets during slow speeds. So I ask the original poster: Does your clunk/pop start immediately? Or is it only noticeable after driving the car >15 min.

So, so far I've got 7 dollars on the sway bars. Well, you guys sound so convincing that I just went ahead and order them from Autohaus for $32 each, Oh yeh (Lempfoerter of course! just for you Bimmerfiver) I also bought the tie rods just in case.

I'll be back with the result. I'll be rooting for you guys, if the outcome is the sway bar I owe each of you a beer if not then you guys owe me a virtue beer:drink1. Thanks for all the help.

Heck, we change tie rods in twenty minutes too! Not that I think they're the cause of the noise.

If what you offering is valid, the car has 90K on it...what suspension parts are original and which have been replaced, do you know?

Did you replace control arms at all??

I have them (lemforder, both for $120 Ebay, brand new) but I have not put them on yet. I didn't have the required ball joint separator at the time I did the stuts. I tried the Big Bang theory but to no avail.

Do I win a dollar bet?

My 540 had some faint clunking going on at slow speeds but only on really small imperfections in the road, like a 25mph zone going down a fleshly paved road! Turned out to be the struts and mounts. One started to leak (the car has 140K) so it was past time for these to go. Once I replaced them, zero clunk of any kind. The car feels new. This was my theory, since it was the only thing I couldn't really check, and every other component was tight. Turned out I was right.

I think that this may be my problem. I have a light clunk coming from the right front. The car has passed an annual inspection twice, and I have picked the car up twice to try to find it, and can't. I am beginning to think its an upper strut bearing.

Any word on the fix? We wanna know...:eatpop:

Any word on the fix? We wanna know...:eatpop:

Hey Cooldude,

Believe it or not the damn part hasn't got here yet from Autohaus. I'll be back and give a report soon.

Just got the sway bar end links in there, took it for a drive and it is awsome now, no more faint clunky noise yeh!!!

Even though hind sight it was the sway bar end links, it was difficult to test the end links while them still on the car, maybe if they were really bad then its easy to detect, but mine happened to be just a little bit of play, I can only feel the play once they were out of the car. Any how, thank you for all the help and 12cooldude you have won a dollar;). How would you like me to send it sir? Paypal, Fleabay or Western Union?

I have them (lemforder, both for $120 Ebay, brand new) but I have not put them on yet. I didn't have the required ball joint separator at the time I did the stuts. I tried the Big Bang theory but to no avail.


Hi Landcruisermike,

120 bucks! That's no deal, I got them from Autohaus for 70 bucks for both and yes they are Loemforder.

Hi Landcruisermike,

120 bucks! That's no deal, I got them from Autohaus for 70 bucks for both and yes they are Loemforder.
i believe he was referring to the control arms.

i believe he was referring to the control arms.

I purchased control arms with bushings for $120 for the pair.

Just got the sway bar end links in there, took it for a drive and it is awsome now, no more faint clunky noise yeh!!!

Even though hind sight it was the sway bar end links, it was difficult to test the end links while them still on the car, maybe if they were really bad then its easy to detect, but mine happened to be just a little bit of play, I can only feel the play once they were out of the car. Any how, thank you for all the help and 12cooldude you have won a dollar;). How would you like me to send it sir? Paypal, Fleabay or Western Union?

Paypal me $7.00. It was me Sir who deserves the dollars...I WANT my seven bucks!!!

Thanks. :buttrock

Paypal me $7.00. It was me Sir who deserves the dollars...I WANT my seven bucks!!!

Thanks. :buttrock

Holymacroni! You're right it was you Bimmerfiver, I'll buy you a couple beers how's that;). Here is one:drink1 bottom up!:), here's another:drink1And yes you deserve it.

i believe he was referring to the control arms.


Oopsie! I'm bad.

I purchased control arms with bushings for $120 for the pair.

In this case 120 bucks for a pair of CA is great price.

Just got the sway bar end links in there, took it for a drive and it is awsome now, no more faint clunky noise yeh!!!

Even though hind sight it was the sway bar end links, it was difficult to test the end links while them still on the car, maybe if they were really bad then its easy to detect, but mine happened to be just a little bit of play, I can only feel the play once they were out of the car. Any how, thank you for all the help and 12cooldude you have won a dollar;). How would you like me to send it sir? Paypal, Fleabay or Western Union?

I'm glad you got it figured out :)

Any chance you can post the part number? I don't know what there called in Chinese, so its better to give the parts guy the part number instead. THANX!

I'm glad you got it figured out :)

Any chance you can post the part number? I don't know what there called in Chinese, so its better to give the parts guy the part number instead. THANX!

Item #6 from the link below. BMW calls it Swing Support, but we call them sway bar end links. Part numbers 31351095662 and 31351095661
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=31_0257&hg=31&fg=10