I've had the car capsize on me once already. Now, I just deepened a dent in my frame with a jackstand. Where the hell is one supposed to put a jackstand on this car, anyway? I can't use ramps even if I had them - I need the wheels off the ground (adjusting the steering box).

Don't show me that E30 pic because it's flat-out wrong.

But any other suggestions would be appreciated.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=830520

We just beat this one to death pretty recently.
The thread should answer your questions, or we could do it all again.
Regards

I looked at that thread. It told me nothing, except confirming that E30 mounts don't coincide with E34 ones.

hmm thought i was stated in the manual hmm remember i looked ther once wen i had a flat.

One important thing to remember when putting jack stands under your BMW is to ensure that you have small blocks of wood between the jack stands and the car. It greatly distributes the weight, prevents "dents" and self forms to the support point. The best (and only "in the manual" recommended) place for them is on the outside edge where the jacking points are. I have also had success with frame rails (with wooden blocks custom fit to the top of my jack stands). No dents, no problem. Sometimes frame rails become soft with corrosion and will weaken and collapse, especially with the point load of a metal jack stand.

One important thing to remember when putting jack stands under your BMW is to ensure that you have small blocks of wood between the jack stands and the car. It greatly distributes the weight, prevents "dents" and self forms to the support point. The best (and only "in the manual" recommended) place for them is on the outside edge where the jacking points are. I have also had success with frame rails (with wooden blocks custom fit to the top of my jack stands). No dents, no problem. Sometimes frame rails become soft with corrosion and will weaken and collapse, especially with the point load of a metal jack stand.

When I jacked up my E34, I placed the jackstands where you mentioned, on the outside edge at the reinforced spot (mentioned in the owner's manual) where you're supposed to put the BMW "widowmaker" jack, and used blocks of wood between the jackstands and the car. I had good luck with this (I also used a floor jack under the rear diff as an extra measure), including heavily shaking the car before going underneath it to make sure it was securely jacked up.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=830520

We just beat this one to death pretty recently.
The thread should answer your questions, or we could do it all again.
Regards


WOW that was the greatest waste of thread space ever
That turned into a middle school your momma war

WOW that was the greatest waste of thread space ever
That turned into a middle school your momma war

Seems to be the norm in a number of threads I've read recently.....

are we talking about getting the car in the air or keeping it there once its up?
you'll have little metal square sections under neither the side skirts, 1 towards the front and 1 towards the rear. put a block of wood the same size as those squares on a jack and jack the car up from there

put the stands on the rear cross member as far to the outside as you can. rear cross member (metal beam w/ a hump to the right of the exhaust. follow that piece of metal and put the stands as close to the outside of the car as you can):
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2116/1800583231_3ccd59c171_b.jpg

towards the front you will see the frame probably 6in inside from the side skirts running to the front of the car. put the stand on that.
the front i dont have a picture of but its simmilar to the tipped over e30. the frame rails are just closer to the side skirts. you will not dent the frame rail w/ a jack stand. it if dents its not the frame rail... or your frame is totally rotted in that case done put the car in the air

put the stands on the rear cross member as far to the outside as you can. towards the front you will see the frame probably 6in inside from the side skirts running to the front of the car. put the stand on that.

rear cross member (metal beam w/ a hump to the right of the exhaust. follow that piece of metal and put the stands as close to the outside of the car as you can):
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2116/1800583231_3ccd59c171_b.jpg

the front i dont have a picture of but its simmilar to the tipped over e30. the frame rails are just closer to the side skirts

I can't believe you flipped your car over to take that pict. :)

I can get it up, I just can't keep it up without breaking something.

Damn old age...:shifty

The places where the factory jack goes are more than sturdy enough, but if I jack up the car using one of them, I can't slide a jackstand onto the same one.

My frame has noticable dents in it, and I really don't want to know what happens if I bend it just a little too far. The rear subframe seems solid enough to support the car with, but what about the front? I need the wheels off the ground and freely turning.

if I jack up the car using one of them, I can't slide a jackstand onto the same one.
you use the stock location to get the car in the air and put the stand somewhere else... you cant use the same for both.

My frame has noticable dents in it, and I really don't want to know what happens if I bend it just a little too far.
somethings totally wrong with that bc the frame should not dent at all. bad car addicents bend frames, jacking them up doesnt generate anywhere near the force required to do that unless the frame itself is structuraly unsound


The rear subframe seems solid enough to support the car with, but what about the front? I need the wheels off the ground and freely turning.
the read x-member is fine. there may even be a front x-member. i'll look at my car on lunch and see what i can do w/ some more pics. where ever you put the stand make sure its a pirce of metal not connecting to any moving parts or bushings.

Front x-member would be perfect. And jack it up from the bottom of the struts

Can't do the struts (need the wheels hanging and turning freely), but I'll try the crossmember.

Is there some compact alternative to a full-size garage lift? Say, something with three bars and four floorjacks powered by a single hydraulic source, and perhaps easily disassembled?

Can't do the struts (need the wheels hanging and turning freely), but I'll try the crossmember.

Is there some compact alternative to a full-size garage lift? Say, something with three bars and four floorjacks powered by a single hydraulic source, and perhaps easily disassembled?

Can't you just lift it from there and put your jack stands on where you lift it from usually?

For the front, I lift it from the factory jack emplacement and put the stands on the cross-member.

i took 2 other pics but cant figure out how to use my trio yet, this will hopefully get you in the right direction though
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2235/2020943696_bbb9e11585.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Jacks-Vehicle-Lift-Pair-Garage-Lift_W0QQitemZ290180749103QQihZ019QQcategoryZ63697 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VEHICLE-LIFT-Low-Rise-6000-Lb-Capacity-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ4649429489QQihZ003QQcategoryZ636 97QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Now I wish I had the cash!!!!

I can't believe you guys are suggesting he use wood between the jack and the car! Wood has a cellular structure, the best case is it flattens over time and the worst case is that it fails completely upsetting the car's balance possibly crushing someone. Take a look at what I use:
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/All_jacks_bottom.JPG
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/Front_jack.JPG
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/Rear_jack.jpgEdit: sadly my cars been up there for a while now :(

wood does seem like a bit of sketchy choice, especially if it's kept in a damp garage where it can rot. i've never had a problem just using jack stands in the factory spots.

I use wood in no small part due to the fact that the car's in Phoenix, where wood doesn't get damp. I've never had any problem with it deforming in any way either.

I've had the car capsize on me once already. Now, I just deepened a dent in my frame with a jackstand. Where the hell is one supposed to put a jackstand on this car, anyway? I can't use ramps even if I had them - I need the wheels off the ground (adjusting the steering box).

Don't show me that E30 pic because it's flat-out wrong.

But any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Here's where I got my start when I acquired my E34...

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/gaunan/E34_Jackpoints.jpg

A friend showed me a trick to cut a 2x4 into a very small block that fits in the orange factory jack spots then you can place a jackstand underneath the block of wood so it wont dent/ding the metal (if you have flattop jackstands this is somewhat moot). Then you will have the entire car and suspension free to work.

HTH,
Greg

If you are careful about your choice of wood, you won't have a problem. I use pieces of laminated (engineered) wood. There is no friggin way it will split!

I can't believe you guys are suggesting he use wood between the jack and the car! Wood has a cellular structure, the best case is it flattens over time and the worst case is that it fails completely upsetting the car's balance possibly crushing someone. Take a look at what I use:
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/All_jacks_bottom.JPG
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/Front_jack.JPG
http://web.umr.edu/%7Esket55/Bimms/Jacks/Rear_jack.jpgEdit: sadly my cars been up there for a while now :(

Ive been using a lift often lately. This is the only places I will put the jack pads at. They are right next to and stronger than the factory jack points, (which I think are designed for that POS factory jack).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Jacks-Vehicle-Lift-Pair-Garage-Lift_W0QQitemZ290180749103QQihZ019QQcategoryZ63697 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-1751-2978-71/1?AID=5463217&PID=2518995&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FAir-Jacks-Vehicle-Lift-Pair-Garage-Lift_W0QQitemZ290180749103QQihZ019QQcategoryZ63697 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VEHICLE-LIFT-Low-Rise-6000-Lb-Capacity-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ4649429489QQihZ003QQcategoryZ636 97QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-1751-2978-71/1?AID=5463217&PID=2518995&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FVEHIC LE-LIFT-Low-Rise-6000-Lb-Capacity-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQitemZ4649429489QQihZ003QQcategoryZ636 97QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem)

Now I wish I had the cash!!!!

I've used the second one, or at least ones similar in an auto shop. They are nice for the portability and low profile, but they don't go up very high. Also, they have a similar problem to this in that you must put small blocks on the flat part that lifts so that it will lift the car without crushing the side skirts.

Rhino ramps rated for 4000 lbs per pair.

Rear view ramps
http://i6.tinypic.com/6upf4ud.jpg

Front left
http://i4.tinypic.com/7xsktp1.jpg

Front
http://i5.tinypic.com/82wplaf.jpg

A friend showed me a trick to cut a 2x4 into a very small block that fits in the orange factory jack spots then you can place a jackstand underneath the block of wood so it wont dent/ding the metal (if you have flattop jackstands this is somewhat moot). Then you will have the entire car and suspension free to work.

HTH,
Greg

This is exactly what I do. Works like a charm.

Here's where I got my start when I acquired my E34...

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/gaunan/E34_Jackpoints.jpg

Greg

^Smart man right here.


You can also use a jackstand pad, griots garage has them.

This is exactly what I do. Works like a charm.

+2

I just did my upper control arms - 2x4 & jack under the cross-member and jackstands under the factory jacking locations with wood spacers. This setup worked great and was totally stable.