I just got a super clean 97 528i and I need to change the oil and filter. I have a few simple questions. First the only oil I could find is Mobil 1 5w 30 fully synthetic so i bought 7 quarts of it. Is that the right oil and is that the right amount? Next what filter to use?

Last, what are the steps for changing the oil? I have done this before but saw the filter is on top of the engine. I am going to put the car on ramps then undo the drain plug underneath, then is there any special things needed to take the oil filter off? Any other things I might need to know? Thanks, I am new to Bimmers and just want to do this right. thanks a million

Oil change DIY...

528i
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-46184.html

540i
Many BMWs like the e39 5 series and e38 7 series...have an oil reservoir located at the top of the engine...and it uses a filter cartridge that you insert inside of it. It's not the hard filter kind that you screw off the engine block.

Oil changes in these cars are sooo simple....you're usually done in 20 minutes. Doing it the old fashioned way...you just open oil filler cap, remove drain plug on oil pan, undo lid on oil reservoir and replace w/new filter and new lid O-ring...replace drain plug and use new copper crush washer, fill with new oil, replace oil filler cap. Voila!

Here's pics of the one in the e38 w/V8 engine...its pretty much the same in the I6 E39, too...

Oil filter reservoir (see it circled in red)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_132_full.jpg

(old filter)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_129_full.jpg

(new filter)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_130_full.jpg

Here's pic of new oil filter, new lid O-ring, and new copper crush washer for oil pan drain plug:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/206000-206999/206524_125_full.jpg
Get one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-6663006-7411216?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1174004548&sr=8-2) for next time.
Read a bit about it here (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=707945&highlight=Oil+change+evacuator).
I love mine!!!!

Jamie

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________

What oil meets BMW Spec's? What oil should I run?
BMW - LL04
Elf 5W30
Amsoil 5-40 European Car Forumula
Valvoline Synpower 5-30
Valvoline Synpower 5-40 (pending)
Liqui-Moly 5W30
Total 5W30

BMW - LL01
Mobil 1 0-40
Castrol Snytec 0-30 European
Pentospeed 0W30
Elf 0W30
Total 0W30

BMW - LL98
Liqui-Moly 5W40
Pentohigh 5W30
Elf 5W40
Total 5W40

BMW - Motorsport
Elf 10W50
Total 10W50
Castrol TWS 10W60

Thanks to many on this site. Please feel free to post inaccuracies.

Mods, can you please sticky this or put it in the DIY section (maybe across all forums)?

Jared
What oil meets BMW Spec's? What oil should I run? (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=938280)

Big second on the Mityvac. No need to crawl under the car, and no mess.

As for the oil filter compartment - you'll need a 36mm socket. When closing it up, you should use 25Nm of torque, so a torque wrench comes in handy, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just don't tighten it too much since it's made of plastic.

M1 5w-30 does not meet BMW specs. One time use is not gonna kill you, but next time I would switch to an oil with a BMW LL-01 or LL-04 spec. M1 0w-40 meets this spec and is easy to find locally.

As for the oil filter, get the OEM stuff from either the dealer or order on line.

Thanks, how is that oil extractor used? And how many quarts do I need? What filter is best? and is the mobil 1 5w 30 sufficent?

Depending on how much you drain, you'll end up using betw. 6,5 and 7 quarts of new oil. Put in 6.5 first, then start the engine. Shut off. wait a couple of minutes and measure the level on the dipstick. Add as necessary.

As for the extractor - you stick a tube down the oil dipstick hole and pump the extractor. Very easy.

Also, do the change while the oil is still warm. Warm oil flows better.

Big second on the Mityvac. No need to crawl under the car, and no mess.

I like crawling under the car. Call me crazy. "CRAZY!" OK, simmer down....

Seriously though, while I'm there, I inspect everything else. I mean, how often are you under there to look for signs of leakage, blown seals (suspension parts), etc.

I consider it part of my PM routine. You can take your Mighty Vac and shove it! ;) Just kidding Pete.

the 5w-30 wont hurt you but better would be the 0w-40. You should be able to get at most chain autoparts stores(autozone, advance, pepboys etc) I have been using the filter that they sell at Advance auto myself, comes with the oring and crush washer and seems to hold up just fine. The mite-e-vac is great I'm sure but for my money it is still worth getting under your car every 5000 to 7000 miles and pulling the plug yourself. While Im down there I eyeball all the boots, pivots joints and brakes to make sure all looks Ok. Is also a good time to check for any new leaks that may have formed. With the Mite-e-vac you will be far less inclined to keep an eye on all those critical parts on a regular basis.

When you get ready to pull that filter out, Have a plastic bag sitting next to the filter housing. There will be some residual oil in it and it will make a mess.

If you remove the drain plug, but sure to use a new crushable washer. If you re-use the old washer, you run the risk of over-tightening the bolt and stripping out the threads on the oil pan. That would not be good.

Here's a tip....

DO NOT turn on ignition without tightening filter cap.... ask me how I know... :shifty

You mean dont start the car? If the engine is not turning I cant fathom what could happen.

You mean dont start the car? If the engine is not turning I cant fathom what could happen.


:shifty yea... dont (let anybody) start the car..... :shifty

Well My guess is he had a sensor go crazy when it realized there was no cap on the oil filter resivor.

Prob got a check the big metal thing under the hood light!

Finished the change it was very easy and I got 0w 40 M1, my final question was that I installed the new rubber oring on the filter cap but there was a small gasket that went over the filter center base that I accidentally dropped when putting the cap back on. Is that absolutely necessary? I cannot find it in there. LMK thanks guys!

boy I dont know about that one, Mine always had the part attached I guess. I would maybe go get another filter if it was me otherwise you may get unfiltered oil bypassing your filter. Can you take the seal of the old filter temporarily until you get a new filter.

I am not talking about the large o ring that came with the new filter, there was a old plastic piece that came off the old filter that I was going to reinstall over the center of the filter center base. It fits between the filter and the filter cap. I used an STP filter and it did not have this piece with it. Do you guys know what I am talking about?

IIRC when I take mine out the filter is hooked to the cap with a round plastic part.

Finished the change it was very easy and I got 0w 40 M1, my final question was that I installed the new rubber oring on the filter cap but there was a small gasket that went over the filter center base that I accidentally dropped when putting the cap back on. Is that absolutely necessary? I cannot find it in there. LMK thanks guys!
D*mn. I was going to warn you about lubricating the O ring with a little bit of new oil. You probably already know about that if you have done work on cars in the past.

Was that an old piece of the old filter that I lost? I put a new o ring on the filter cap. Do you guys reinstall any other smaller plastic gaskets that go over the top of the filter? Or was that a piece of the old filter or a necessary piece that I need to go get?

Please guys I am driving myself crazy did I need that piece or was it part of the old filter and supposed to be thrown away? I installed the enw crush washer and oring that came with the new STP filter. Am I worrying for nothing or do i need to go to the dealer and get that smaller plastic piece that goes on top of the filter and the filter cap?

Well even though you have described the part you lost none of us know what you are refering to unfortunatly.

Whenever I change my oil I just unscrew the black cap then pull it up and into a bag then I grab the filter and un snap it from the black oil filter hosing cap then just snap the new filter back on and screw the cap and filter back on with a new o ring and I done.

Don't know what part you are talking about mabey your old filter had come apart.
who knows?

Well i took the new filter out to look at it and to make sure that plastic piece did not go down there and it did not. I do not see the purpose of what it was maybe it came off the old filter. I have the new o ring and crush washer installed and the filter put on the cap and screwed the cap back down. Do you guys think i should worry about it anymore. I appreciate it, I just really love my new BMW and want nothing but the best for it.

I like crawling under the car. Call me crazy. "CRAZY!" OK, simmer down....


I guess we all have our fetishes... :D

I just changed the oil on the 525 this past weekend.

I don't know what that extra part of the filter was. There were no parts of the filter that could have come off. The only thing I can think of is the filter I replaced (a Napa filter) had plastic ends on the filter. The OEM BMW filter did not.

I agree with everyone that the Mityvac is the way to go. Makes changing oil really easy and clean. I use Euro Castrol 0W30 at $6/quart at Autozone. The BMW stuff is less expensive at the dealer, about $5/quart. However, many people claim the castrol is great stuff.

Well i took the new filter out to look at it and to make sure that plastic piece did not go down there and it did not. I do not see the purpose of what it was maybe it came off the old filter.

I'm with the others...it's not really clear what you are referring to. Go back up to post #2 and take a look at the new and old filter.

Is what you're talking about the black piece that sits on top of the new filter and snaps into place on the reservoir's lid when you screw it down? If yes, take a look at the old filter you removed...was the top of the filter missing the hard plastic round piece? If so, then that part must have disengaged from the old filter when you unscrewed it (a good reason to really consider buying the BMW oe filter kit (seen in post #2) ...which can usually be purchased for approx $10 from the dealer).

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg
see this image and tell us if any of the parts look correct for the missing piece. This is the Oil filter housing for a 97 528.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DD63&mospid=47585&btnr=11_1542&hg=11&fg=30

The only thing plastic I can see here is the little cage and stem. There is a gasket on the top and bottom edge of the filter that seals but no plastic pieces.

I guess it is that piece that is supposed to hold the filter to the filter cover. My filter is sticking fine to the filter cover now. So am I fine? Oh and it is not the cage I am referring to it looks like a smaller thinner gasket but felt plastic. It was the same size as the top end of the oil filter. Anyone else see this? When i removed the old filter it was loose and dropped down freely. Was it part of the old filter?

The BMW stuff is less expensive at the dealer, about $5/quart. However, many people claim the castrol is great stuff.
The BMW "stuff" is also Castrol.

I guess we all have our fetishes... :D

Indeed. This one keeps me out of trouble. I won't get into my other fetishes. ;)

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46184

The AMSOIL Euro Formula I use is $5.80/quart

Originally Posted by indy525 http://images.bimmerforums.com/vb3images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11196887#post11196887)
The BMW stuff is less expensive at the dealer, about $5/quart. However, many people claim the castrol is great stuff.

The AMSOIL Euro Formula I use is $5.80/quart

From where? I am considering going to Amsoil since the German Castrol is getting harder and harder to find.

Hi,

Just bought a 97 528i and thinking about switching to fully snynthetic, is there anything I should lookout for or should I even do it? thanx in advance for your assistance.

Mobile 1 0W40

read lots of info here:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Read recent tests and comparisons here:

http://lnengineering.com/oil.html

*though the 2nd site is porsche specific ... the info is extremely valuable. Especially info on Mobil 1's reduction of additives on their newest iteration, Old Kendall GT race oil is now Brad Penn, etc... BMW oil really only has to lubricate whereas an air cooled porsche [VW, etc...] motor the oil is doubly taxed in having to lubricate AND cool the motor.

With that said ... I am using:

528iT - Mobil 1 0w40 (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx) synthetic
GMC Suburban - Mobil 1 5W30 (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_5W-30.aspx) synthetic
325iX(s) - Valvoline 10W40 (http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=7) dinosaur oil
'76 911 (air / oil cooled) - Brad Penn 20W50 (http://www.amref.com/bp_product_pgs/BPengoils.htm)
Race cars - Valvoline VR1 20W50 (http://www.valvoline.com/racing/) race oil

*Used to use Castrol dinosaur [before synthetics]... pulled a few motors apart and decided it wasn't doing the job well enough. No longer use it if I don't have to. I know it is the BMW "approved oil" [synthetic] ... my cars aren't new enough and this from the same company that has 15K mile oil changes and "lifetime fills" :rolleyes

Good Luck :)

It shouldn't be a problem unless you decide to change back to conventional oil after using synthetic.

Try German Blend Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40.

It's really a good idea to do the switch and would add this,the dino oil that has been in the car can and will leave a build up of varnish in the engine. If you haven't changed your valve cover gasket and you have a little oil in the spark wells, I would change the cover gasket just to see if there's any sludge to worry about in the motor. If not I would then buy a bottle of Auto-rx and do the system cleaning and switch to the syn fluid after cleaning out the oil system. Syn oil will clean the system on it's own -but the auto-rx will help do it quicker. If you have alot of sludge in the engine nothing less than a tare down will help,

I use bmw synthetic 5w30 and its under $5 a quart.

It shouldn't be a problem unless you decide to change back to conventional oil after using synthetic.

Try German Blend Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40.
+1

Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W30 here.

Amsoil and Castrol are also good choices.

BMW - LL04
Elf 5W30
Amsoil 5-40 European Car Forumula
Valvoline Synpower 5-30
Valvoline Synpower 5-40 (pending)
Liqui-Moly 5W30
Total 5W30

BMW - LL01
Mobil 1 0-40
Castrol Snytec 0-30 European
Pentospeed 0W30
Elf 0W30
Total 0W30

BMW - LL98
Liqui-Moly 5W40
Pentohigh 5W30
Elf 5W40
Total 5W40

BMW - Motorsport
Elf 10W50
Total 10W50
Castrol TWS 10W60

Thanks to many on this site. Please feel free to post inaccuracies.

Mods, can you please sticky this or put it in the DIY section (maybe across all forums)?

Jared

Jared, you should add

Castrol TWS 10W60 to the BMW Motorsport section

Jared, you should add

Castrol TWS 10W60 to the BMW Motorsport section

Done... Thanks!

http://www.agipfinland.com/downloads/AGIP-BMW.pdf

Anything else missing from the list?

http://www.agipfinland.com/downloads/AGIP-BMW.pdf

Attached the pdf to the original post. Too much info to try and copy.

What oil meets BMW Spec's? What oil should I run? (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=938280)

how do I reset the oil light on my dash?

edit: found this, gonna try it tomorrow.

1. Are you doing an INSPECTION light reset or an OIL SERVICE light reset? I'm sure you know there's a time difference of a few seconds between the two resets. Keep the wire (I'll use my needle nose pliers if I can't find the wire) inserted in pins #7 & #19 for 5~10 seconds for OIL SERVICE reset and 10~15 seconds for INSPECTION reset.

2. Also, try the procedure below which has a slight DIFFERENCE for "e38/e39" owners that are pre 2000/2001 (?) or don't have the goodwill replacement instrument clusters ... replace the cap BEFORE you turn the ignition off.
Instructions to reset Service Interval Lights:

Open the cap.
With the ignition off, put a wire (or needle nose pliers) between pins 7 and 19. (double check that you have the correct pins...those numbers are rather small next to the pins)
Turn the ignition to position 2, "run." (Do not start the engine...& make sure you're not in position 1)
Remove wire after 5-10 seconds (for OIL SERV) or 10-15 seconds (for INSPECTION),
REPLACE (screw-on) 20-pin diagnostic port cap/lid
Turn ignition off

The pins in the diagnostic port are numbered...so make sure you have the correct ones, then double check that you have the correct pins :D ...#7 & #19 ...I highlighted them with a gold paint stick so that I couldn't make a mistake...if you or your wife/sister/girlfriend has some old fingernail polish...that would work too...with the small little brush that comes in the bottle.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/BMW%2015%20and%2020%20Pin%20Diagnostic%20Port.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/BMW%2020%20Pin%20Diagnostic%20Port.JPG