I've posted the question before, so offer apologies for a second post. I'm still looking for a definitive solution.

When slowing gradually, and bringing the car to a complete stop, I can feel the Steptronic transmission shifting down from 2nd gear to 1st gear (Shifter in D) and it "grabs" with enough force that it feels like I just stabbed the brake pedal hard. The tach doesn't show any sudden movement, and the engine seems to be running smoothly without coughing, sputtering, or stalling.

I did have my indy mechanic run a test for codes a couple months back, and found P0171 and P0173 -- that were solved by replacing the pre-cat O2 sensors. Along the way, the indy shop tried a new sensor in the MAF, but traded back to my original once the O2 sensors were replaced.

When at normal operating temp, the engine idles at a shade over 500 RPMs (maybe it's 600?).

This doesn't happen every time I come to a complete stop -- perhaps 25% to 30% of the time. If I recall, the car's been fully warmed up when this happens.

Questions:


Is this normal for the Steptronic tranny?
If not normal, does this indicate something badly adjusted or not working?
Could this be related to a torque converter spinning down, but not fully unlocking until the last few miles per hour?One last clue: I had the ATF and filter changed shortly after I bought the car -- 106,000 miles on the odo.

No slipping detected, shifts like a champ except for this one oddity.

Bump - I want the answer as well. Mine does that from time to time. My tranny is 10k miles old. It's going into the dealer for inspection (covered under warranty) after I work out my rear suspension issues. Anyone else with this malady?

mine does it only when the AC is engaged. I do have a vacuum leak however, so didnt know if that affected it somehow (which I doubt it does)

Mine does it every so often not all the time normally when I come from a fast stop it will down shift hard.

My ZF trans has 130,000 miles

mine as well!
a friend said he read that there was a service bulletin that there was some sort of software error... specific to 99 540's i believe... apparently its 1hr dealer labor to update it
might check into it if it still bugs me in the spring, but it is sporadic so i dunno if im worried enough yet

Mine does it, but when downshifting from 4th-3rd
ZF Tranny, 2001 530iA

I'm glad for all the company having the same (or similar) problem, but I was hoping to get a response or two from people that have some detailed knowledge of the issue, and what (if anything) should be done to deal with it.

In my earlier post on the same topic, several people commented that the problem became unnoticeable when the A/C is turned on.

So, people, who out there has solved this problem, or has learned from BMW dealers or BMWNA rep that this is normal behavior?

Did you see how I fixed mine yet?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290606

Sounds like an issue with hydrolic fluid and the valve body. Mine did the same. Pop the fillings out of your teeth with the down shift from 5th.

mine as well!
a friend said he read that there was a service bulletin that there was some sort of software error... specific to 99 540's i believe... apparently its 1hr dealer labor to update it
might check into it if it still bugs me in the spring, but it is sporadic so i dunno if im worried enough yet

There is a bulletin for harsh 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts for 525i and 530i from 04/04-11/02. It is fixed by updating the EGS (trans. control module) software.

Did you see how I fixed mine yet?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290606

Yours is quite a bit different than mine. New MAF on mine and no idle issues. Just the occasional harder than normal downshift.

To the OP, all I can tell you is that I'll report back once I talk to my dealer.

There is a bulletin for harsh 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts for 525i and 530i from 04/04-11/02. It is fixed by updating the EGS (trans. control module) software.

Not on the 540? Bummer.

Not on the 540? Bummer.

Not that I saw, but I wouldn't be surprised if programming DID fix the issue. It's likely that your car isn't at the latest software level. I'm not saying that programming will definitely fix it, but it's possible. If you go into the dealer and demand that they program your car, they might not take you seriously though. I would just tell them what your symptoms are and let them come to their own conclusions. Techs are cranky and don't like being told what to do. :stickoutt

did anyone reach a resolution on this?

My 1999 540It has 103,000 miles and also shifts down poorly from 2nd into first( not all the time)

I had heard that replacing the MAF can remedy the problem ( from another E39 forum)

BB

My 1999 540It has 103,000 miles and also shifts down poorly from 2nd into first( not all the time)

I had heard that replacing the MAF can remedy the problem ( from another E39 forum)

BB

Good luck with that - an expensive 'experiment'. My MAF is new and still does it.

mine stopped...when i replaced my tranny fluid...for reference check out my DIY on ATF flushing on the DIY section of this forum...

Mabey it wasent your fluid but the flow rate if the fluid through a old (dirty) vs. new trans filter?

Mabey it wasent your fluid but the flow rate if the fluid through a old (dirty) vs. new trans filter?

that would make more sense...

all i know is when i did that...it just made a world of difference...

Well an old / dirty MAF compared to a new part should make a difference. The problem sounds more like a transmission valve body issue. A simple solution would be to have a rebuild kit put in. At the same time the trans fluid and filter are also done.

The Zf kits replaces the pucks, springs and a few other small parts. It makes the car shift pretty much like new.

Well an old / dirty MAF compared to a new part should make a difference. The problem sounds more like a transmission valve body issue. A simple solution would be to have a rebuild kit put in. At the same time the trans fluid and filter are also done.

The Zf kits replaces the pucks, springs and a few other small parts. It makes the car shift pretty much like new.

I have a new MAF and a new transmission - old one did it too.

I've posted the question before, so offer apologies for a second post. I'm still looking for a definitive solution.

When slowing gradually, and bringing the car to a complete stop, I can feel the Steptronic transmission shifting down from 2nd gear to 1st gear (Shifter in D) and it "grabs" with enough force that it feels like I just stabbed the brake pedal hard. The tach doesn't show any sudden movement, and the engine seems to be running smoothly without coughing, sputtering, or stalling.

I did have my indy mechanic run a test for codes a couple months back, and found P0171 and P0173 -- that were solved by replacing the pre-cat O2 sensors. Along the way, the indy shop tried a new sensor in the MAF, but traded back to my original once the O2 sensors were replaced.

When at normal operating temp, the engine idles at a shade over 500 RPMs (maybe it's 600?).

This doesn't happen every time I come to a complete stop -- perhaps 25% to 30% of the time. If I recall, the car's been fully warmed up when this happens.

Questions:

Is this normal for the Steptronic tranny?
If not normal, does this indicate something badly adjusted or not working?
Could this be related to a torque converter spinning down, but not fully unlocking until the last few miles per hour?One last clue: I had the ATF and filter changed shortly after I bought the car -- 106,000 miles on the odo.

No slipping detected, shifts like a champ except for this one oddity.


Let us know the outcome. I've discussed the Steptronic on my car (2003 525) with the mechanics at the dealer when I had the Dinan software put it. Their top guy suggested not to downshift in Step Mode from 2nd to 1st.

I've also asked the question, should one take their foot of the gas when upshifting in Step Mode, just as one would with a true clutch? Thoughts? Mr. Jim Levie?

I have the Alpina B10 V8 which in some wats is simlar to that of the e39 540ia.

My car is a zf gearbox and can be driven in the swicth_tron mode or plain old auto.

The thing is i used to have these violent like shifts when comming down the box from 2nd to 1st in the auto mode and when the car was well warmed up. It was only from 2nd to 1st that this happend.

Having had the atf oil replaced the filter and speed sensors in the box all seems well now.

my car did have the updated software on the car and did still get these like probs but since having the oil change the filter and the nessasairy valves in the box all is ok now.

There is a bulletin for harsh 3-2 and 2-1 downshifts for 525i and 530i from 04/04-11/02. It is fixed by updating the EGS (trans. control module) software.
Please more info on that.Do I need to contact dealer or is it too late?
Thanks.

I have a '01 540it with the ZF trans and it just started randomly hard shifting down from 2nd to first like yours. I replaced the fluid at 59k miles and it now has 61k. One clue I had was when I had my 2000 528it, after one fluid change at 50k the trans fluid was low ~1/2 qt. and it did the same thing, hard downshift. I added the fluid and it was fixed. I again changed at 100k and never had the hard shift happen again.
I thought for sure I got the correct amount in my 540 but if it persists I'll check it again.

should one take their foot of the gas when upshifting in Step Mode, just as one would with a true clutch?

nope, keep your foot planted. the car does all the work in step mode.

This problem is a real puzzler it seems it goes and comes with these so called sealed for life boxes. Mine is fine now but only after having the oil filter change. I think i could be a good thing to have a flush through done to get all the contaminated oil out the box as well as the tourque convertor.

Be good to hear what other peoples views are on this.

Should top up your oil ibewing before it gets worse bro. As im syre ive read that less oil in the box is not good at all. as you proberly Know.

For those that are experiencing this problem I fixed mine. I decided to try changing the fluid and filter in my 2000 540i. After finding out how much fluid was I thought I might as well rebuild the valve body as well while the fluid was out.
After the valve body rebuild and going through the ridiculous fill procedure (which was a PITA even with the right scantool) the car now has no strange downshifts and all of the shifts are much smoother. The shifts are so smooth now that I realize how hard the shifts were before in comparison.
A valve body rebuild may not have been necessary to fix the problem, but it is more effective than a drain and fill and less risky than a flush.
I hope that helps anyone with the same problem.

Mine only does this after I get on the throttle hard, almost like the adaptive transmission is going into sport mode even in 'D'. Then afterward, while I am driving normally it will do the harsh downshift 2-1 once or twice until the car realizes that I no longer want to be in race mode.

Mine only does this after I get on the throttle hard, almost like the adaptive transmission is going into sport mode even in 'D'. Then afterward, while I am driving normally it will do the harsh downshift 2-1 once or twice until the car realizes that I no longer want to be in race mode.

At first I thought that mine was program based, but it wasn't. Keep in mind, if you are driving the car hard the transmission fluid and clutch discs heat up more which can be the cause of strange shifting. When you calm down the transmission fluid cools down.
Here are some of the reasons I didn't pursue the "transmission programming update"- First I looked through all of the resources that I had available to me, including ATRA and I found that the software update was for the 1999 528i, which was older and used a different transmission. The update was to fix harsh 4-3 and 3-2 downshifts according to my resources, and I wasn't experiencing it then. Second, I thought about the programming itself. Programming doesn't get worse over time, but mechanical components do. The problem I had was severe enough so that any owner who had the car under warranty would demand that the issue be fixed, which means the car would have been reprogrammed long ago if that was the remedy.
Since the programming/shift solenoids are only part of the shift control I chose to focus on the wearable items and it worked very well.

Where did you buy you valve body rebuild kit? How involved is it to rebuild?

How much did it cost?


Thanks!

Where did you buy you valve body rebuild kit? How involved is it to rebuild?

How much did it cost?


Thanks!

the rebuild kit was about $165 from a vendor on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/CT-POWERTRAIN-PRODUCTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZk m . I don't know if he has one up right now, but if you ask he will sell it to you. Shortly after I bought it I came across the same ZF made kit for less ($135 IIRC) on the internet, but I do not recall where. Try searching under zf 5hp24 valve body rebuild kit and you may come across it.
Doing the rebuild isn't terribly difficult, and doesn't require any special tools. It does require that you take your time, are EXTREMELY organized and surgically clean though. The parts are bagged with part numbers, and there is a diagram showing what goes where. This was not the first valve body that I have taken apart, but it was by far the most complicated (9 solenoids and 3 housings). Filling the transmission fluid on the other hand required the use of my autoenginuity to monitor ATF temps while filling (and there was quite a procedure involved). I have heard the fluid can be done without the monitor, but be prepared to try a few times if you get the level wrong. If you need any specifics feel free to IM me.

the rebuild kit was about $165 from a vendor on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/CT-POWERTRAIN-PRODUCTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZk m . I don't know if he has one up right now, but if you ask he will sell it to you. Shortly after I bought it I came across the same ZF made kit for less ($135 IIRC) on the internet, but I do not recall where. Try searching under zf 5hp24 valve body rebuild kit and you may come across it.
Doing the rebuild isn't terribly difficult, and doesn't require any special tools. It does require that you take your time, are EXTREMELY organized and surgically clean though. The parts are bagged with part numbers, and there is a diagram showing what goes where. This was not the first valve body that I have taken apart, but it was by far the most complicated (9 solenoids and 3 housings). Filling the transmission fluid on the other hand required the use of my autoenginuity to monitor ATF temps while filling (and there was quite a procedure involved). I have heard the fluid can be done without the monitor, but be prepared to try a few times if you get the level wrong. If you need any specifics feel free to IM me.


I was at the shop when they pulled mine out, and opened it. It is definatly not a task for the novice transmission rebuilder. Though it really is interesting knowing how it works.

How much did you pay?

Jack cat how much?

You don't have the same zf trans as the 540 does....

The profile says 530

exactly dont 530's have diff transmissions than the 540s ?

zf19, with a lot of the same principals and design style as the 540 zf trans. The cost would be similar. The zf rebuild kit for the valve body was $89 with the toal cost with labor being $385 (indy shop).

We eventually found a partially seized selonoid that was out of round which was causing a hard downshift from 5th to 4th.



Interestingly enough Audi and Porche use almost the exact zf valve body & transmission. . A good percentage of similar Audi transmission owners have reported some similar issues that a lot of BMW guys have with the downshifting. There might be a similar finding with the 540 zf trans.

So was it the elctronic portion of the soloniod or was it the plunger that was out of round? What Im asking is was it able to be reolaced with what came in the rebuild kit.

I don't want to take my car to a BMW indy and dropit off with the rebuild kit then have then tear apart the valve body and need special order german parts to put it back together. I can't be without my car for long.

the rebuild kit was about $165 from a vendor on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/CT-POWERTRAIN-PRODUCTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZk m (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-1751-2978-71/1?AID=5463217&PID=2518995&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fstores.ebay.com%2FCT-POWERTRAIN-PRODUCTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZk m) . I don't know if he has one up right now, but if you ask he will sell it to you. Shortly after I bought it I came across the same ZF made kit for less ($135 IIRC) on the internet, but I do not recall where. Try searching under zf 5hp24 valve body rebuild kit and you may come across it.
Doing the rebuild isn't terribly difficult, and doesn't require any special tools. It does require that you take your time, are EXTREMELY organized and surgically clean though. The parts are bagged with part numbers, and there is a diagram showing what goes where. This was not the first valve body that I have taken apart, but it was by far the most complicated (9 solenoids and 3 housings). Filling the transmission fluid on the other hand required the use of my autoenginuity to monitor ATF temps while filling (and there was quite a procedure involved). I have heard the fluid can be done without the monitor, but be prepared to try a few times if you get the level wrong. If you need any specifics feel free to IM me.

Much respect! :woot:

Are there any other side effects that might make you think you should rebuild your valve body?

+1000 to the above post....

anyone?

My 02 540iT with 73k has the same problem. What I have observed is that the car has to be completely warmed up -- at least ten minutes of driving. It is much more prone to do the hard down shift 2-1 with the A/C off. I took it to the stealer and they said the ATF was low and they topped it up but it did not help. Car is CPO until 9/08 so I will take it back and get them to replace the MAF sensors and the pre-cat o2 sensors and see if that helps.
Would like to hear more from others who have solved the problem and how they did it.
Jay

So was it the elctronic portion of the soloniod or was it the plunger that was out of round? What Im asking is was it able to be reolaced with what came in the rebuild kit.

I don't want to take my car to a BMW indy and dropit off with the rebuild kit then have then tear apart the valve body and need special order german parts to put it back together. I can't be without my car for long.


The piston itself was out of round. We ended up cross hatching the piston and shaft in the hope a new body wasn't needed. A new valve body goes for apprx. $1100 The piston itself could be replaced but the housing could not. Fortunatly it worked out on a wing and a prayer.

I highly doubt this problem is common. The nice thing is all the shift points are smoother after the rebuild. In the end the trans had:new oil, rebuilt valve body & a fixed selonoid.

Find a really good transmission guy who specializes in autos. Expect the car to be there 3-5 days. Also ZF has a US facility.

Thanks thats what I was looking to hear I want just have the VB rebuilt and know that my transmission will shift smooth. (I am smooth shifting crazy!)

I'm tired of changing fluids and filters without a change in shift quality.

Thanks .......off to save 450.00 and to find a trans shop that services ZF autos.....

Thanks thats what I was looking to hear I want just have the VB rebuilt and know that my transmission will shift smooth. (I am smooth shifting crazy!)

I'm tired of changing fluids and filters without a change in shift quality.

Thanks .......off to save 450.00 and to find a trans shop that services ZF autos.....

Just a heads up, the 5hp19 is quite a bit more simple (I just compared layouts). Rebuilding the 5hp24 valve body may cost a $100-200 more.

My 02 540iT with 73k has the same problem. What I have observed is that the car has to be completely warmed up -- at least ten minutes of driving. It is much more prone to do the hard down shift 2-1 with the A/C off. I took it to the stealer and they said the ATF was low and they topped it up but it did not help. Car is CPO until 9/08 so I will take it back and get them to replace the MAF sensors and the pre-cat o2 sensors and see if that helps.
Would like to hear more from others who have solved the problem and how they did it.
Jay
That was my exact same problem. The valve body rebuild, filter and fluid change fixed it completely.

Have the same problem and an ATF and filter changed fix it.

My steptronic hard to upshift 1st to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st gear stay more than RPM 2000 before shifting to 2nd gear..What's wrong for the gearbox??

Between, i saw the previuor post:-

It is fixed by updating the EGS (trans. control module) software.

Is this true?? Our steptronic got software??

Just got my car 02 540iT back from the dealer (4th time for same problem)and the hard downshifting from 1st to 2nd seems to be solved. Dealer had to submit case to BMWNA and they recomended the following: "Raised idle speed deviation with driving position selected 100RPM and idle speed deviation with driving position 20 RPM" This wording is straight off the dealer invoice. All of the above required reprogramming (second time they did that).
So far so good -- my CPO runs out in September so I'm hoping this is a longterm fix.
Jay

Mine is still doing this. Bizarre 3-4 upshifts at heavy throttle, "idle dip" when coming to a stop (car catches itself - never stalls), etc. I have a new MAF, new o2 sensors, new plugs, etc., etc. Last time I took it to the dealer, they couldn't replicate the issue. :mad: I have 10k on the trans. :dunno