Well, we suspect the alternator has finally gone on my 320i. Long story short, at a NJBMWCCA meet I arrived at today, the car was acting funky, at first it was the temp gauge, stuttered every so often and waved a bit. Then the battery light was half on... Which made me think HM, very odd, asked a friend who has 4 320s and he said “Probably a bad ground, the grounds on these cars suck...?” So I drove it for a bit not paying it any mind (100 Miles, at Least...) Drove it to work and back a few times, noticed nothing wrong with the car, so I assumed it must be a false ground.

Well I was wrong, coming home from the NJBMWCCA meet, my headlights dimmed, and the cab lights went out. I pulled off the road calmly into a BJ’s Wholesale Parking lot, and popped my hood to check the alternator, battery wiring, etc… Then I called some friends that attended the meet with me, and they swung by since they had not left yet. They came by in a truck to say the least, and if they had a tow bar they could’ve got me home. Instead they supplied a freshly charged car battery, which was just my size! And followed me the whole way home, luckily though, their houses were on the way.

I give my thanks out to Jamie, Mark, and emm… I forget the other persons name, BUT THANKS!!! Lol.

Il get your battery back to you asap Mark!

Pull the alternator and have it tested, if it comes back bad remove the voltage regulator/brush assembly and check the parts where the brushes ride. If they are not too worn and the alternator spins freely with no grinding buy a new voltage regulator/brush assembly (abut $16) and you should be up and running again.

ken

Pull the alternator and have it tested, if it comes back bad remove the voltage regulator/brush assembly and check the parts where the brushes ride. If they are not too worn and the alternator spins freely with no grinding buy a new voltage regulator/brush assembly (abut $16) and you should be up and running again.

ken

And if she comes back good? Check all grounds, wires in general around that area for heat/shock damage and fatigue :)

not trying to hijack the thread, but i pulled my alt a while back and it tested bad so i replaced it. put the new one in and im still not getting anything. could this one be bad too or am i missing something obvious? what is the voltage regulator?

not trying to hijack the thread, but i pulled my alt a while back and it tested bad so i replaced it. put the new one in and im still not getting anything. could this one be bad too or am i missing something obvious? what is the voltage regulator?


If you already replaced the alternator, dont worry, the voltage regulator is internal.

Check your wiring, i had a loose wire inside a connector, and this was mostlikely causing the problem. But i replaced the alternator anyways, since the current one had 200,000 miles on it. Seemed like a pertinent idea :).

Anyways, im back up and running after 2 hours, and a run to my local buddies shop to get the pulley assembly off the old alternator. Oh as well, i broke a 3/8ths inch ratchet and had to go to sears and get it switched out :)

When the Alt went in my 83' at 200k we replaced it with a GM 1wire alt from a Chevy Asshole van roughly 90-95amp's and bolts right up! just swap on the V-belt pulley.


Kyle

When the Alt went in my 83' at 200k we replaced it with a GM 1wire alt from a Chevy Asshole van roughly 90-95amp's and bolts right up! just swap on the V-belt pulley.


Kyle

From what year/make/modle?

Chevy Asshole van

Thats funny:lol

"the little light"

Don't forget if your dash battery light isn't working, then your alternator won't charge. The blue wire or exciter wire is in series through the dash batt lamp. No good lamp, no charging. :D

Grounds are always good to check or replace. I'd run one from the negative of the alternator directly to the frame rail.

From what year/make/modle?

I want to say it was an 89-94 model with a V6 and all the bells and whistles.

Kyle