Story:

I put the new head gasket on, started it up, Saw some white anti-freeze smoke, thought it was the antifreeze burning out of the exhaust. Later, the car stalled to what sounded like a vacuum leak. Figured the hoses were doing it. Took the head off, cleaned everything up again, remove the hose remains out of the cylinder, and put it back on.

Now the car acts like its wanting to start, but just couldn't. Bought new spark plugs and compression tool.

Checked compression.. 90 64 85 89

What the crap. What would cause the compression to just get lower? Need help with this one.

so you took your head off just after you installed a new head gasket?

if your compression sucks after replacing your head, it's most likely wrong valve timing. there are marks to line up your camshaft IF and ONLY IF you are at #1 TDC, which is given by a mark on your crankshaft pulley and on the flywheel.

(the valves are opening too early, allowing combustion to escape through the exhaust valve instead of pushing down the piston)

arnz, yes, but only after running the engine for a maximum of 5-10 mins.

tlapham, I tied the whole pulley with the chain on it to the side with a zip tie. Theres no backfiring. I will check that when i take the head off next time.

arnz, yes, but only after running the engine for a maximum of 5-10 mins.

tlapham, I tied the whole pulley with the chain on it to the side with a zip tie. Theres no backfiring. I will check that when i take the head off next time.

did you re-use the head bolts?

I hope he re-used them:rolleyes waste of money to replace all ready new head bolts on an M10. It's a phallacy that M10 head bolts stretch that much- that's an M20 + thing.

So the compression issue is due to the fact that you took your head off and put it back on with out adjusting your valves. I just went through this with a buddy- wouldnt adjust his valves on his engine/head swap and the end result was cyl#1 had 50psi. I told him once more to do it just to rule out a way out of adjustment valve (and tighten up that horrible clacking under the hood) and presto, he had compression again. This is a must- you have to do it when you take the head off then re-tourque.

John

It's a phallacy

The head bolts are shaped like a penis?!?! I think you mean fallacy. :eek:

The head bolts are shaped like a penis?!?! I think you mean fallacy. :eek:


Man, you guys crack me up.


I'm having the exact same problem now.... Replaced my warped/cracked head with a good one off of my parts car, and now it won't crank.

Things to check:

Cam timing to crank -make sure crank pointer is pointing to notch and cam notch is sticking straight up at the oiling bar.

Distributor timing -with the crank and cam at their marks, cyl#1 is at TDC, and the distributor rotor should be pointing at cyl#1.

Firing order -the most simple problem of all of them, but sometimes its easy to overlook things like this (I know I certainly have)


Of course all this is coming from a guy who is 10 feet away from a non cranking E21:rolleyes.

Anyways, good luck and keep us posted.

I hope he re-used them:rolleyes waste of money to replace all ready new head bolts on an M10. It's a phallacy that M10 head bolts stretch that much- that's an M20 + thing.

So the compression issue is due to the fact that you took your head off and put it back on with out adjusting your valves. I just went through this with a buddy- wouldnt adjust his valves on his engine/head swap and the end result was cyl#1 had 50psi. I told him once more to do it just to rule out a way out of adjustment valve (and tighten up that horrible clacking under the hood) and presto, he had compression again. This is a must- you have to do it when you take the head off then re-tourque.

John

You going to be in town soon? I have no idea how to adjust my valves. I will check my manual and ask any questions I may have.

peperry - No cranking is kind of a power issue I think. Did you hook all the wires and ground up?

You going to be in town soon? I have no idea how to adjust my valves. I will check my manual and ask any questions I may have.

peperry - No cranking is kind of a power issue I think. Did you hook all the wires and ground up?


sorry... no STARTING E21. cranks just fine :stickoutt

You going to be in town soon? I have no idea how to adjust my valves. I will check my manual and ask any questions I may have.

peperry - No cranking is kind of a power issue I think. Did you hook all the wires and ground up?

Hey Dude,

From a guy who know's what it's like to adjust valves on a 75 Beetle, 21's are VERY easy. This will take about 30 minutes.

Read this link over top to bottom and away you go. http://www.3dtriad.com/e21/ click "Technical" on the left side menu.

Considering what you've done so far - you can handle the valves.

Rob

The head bolts are shaped like a penis?!?! I think you mean fallacy. :eek:

:lol

OOOPS

You going to be in town soon? I have no idea how to adjust my valves. I will check my manual and ask any questions I may have.

peperry - No cranking is kind of a power issue I think. Did you hook all the wires and ground up?

Not anytime soon, but I left you a feeler gauge when I came last. It's shaped like a penis. I think it's in your trunk. Read that link when looking at the head; you should get it ok. Jack up the right rear wheel and put the car in 4th gear. Turn the wheel to move the cam lobes where you need them to be. That's how I adjusted your points. :cool

Get this damn car started all ready!

Well, I adjusted the valves. checked my compression.. worse. but I don't think that the compression tool is good. I started the car with starter fluid. lolz. Anyway, becuase my starter is so freakin shot i thought id tr my luck and rebuild it with all the other starters i have around the garage, got it back together. doesn't work. woot. anyway. I'll just go and get another starter. Learned alot about those creepy little things.