I need the dynamic timing specs..

The static timing spec. would help too.

I can't seem to get it right (engine loping) with the "Z" mark at 850-950 rpm. My timing light is adjustable; it shows 27 BTDC on the "O/T" mark with the setting as mentioned above. I think the distributor pulley is off one tooth.

Also, how do you set up the distributor position on the early M20b23 when changing the timing belt?

Here's some pics of the dist. marks. There's an inner and an outer mark (the inner mark is best seen in the lower left pic.). The ones on the left are on the Timing 'Z' mark(? BTDC). And the ones on the right are on the 'OT' mark (TDC).

Before I take the timing belt off again, it would be nice to know:

1) is the dist pulley in the right position? and,
2) which mark should I use to align the pulley to when putting the belt back on?

I been using my e30 manual for most specs., but this issue is specific to M20 engines with the dist. on the side of the engine.

your distributor seems to be in the correct position. BTW in order to get the distributor position changed you just pull the distributor itself out and put it back in the way it should be ( mark on the edge is where the rotor points).
Your distributor looks fine, and your timing adjustment is wrong. timing adjustment is done at some revs and with vacuum hoses disconnected from the distributor. Adjust to Z mark. Can't help with revs, look for a sticker under the hood saying something like 23 deg at 3000 RPM or whatever.
Normally on these cars it's best to adjust the timing by feel ( if you know what you're doing) b/c the gasoline is different and stock specs are too advanced for US gas anyway.

Max

When we ask a question, it gets our brain working toward the answer. Sometimes we answer our own question by asking.

After thinking it through and carefully examining the workings, I set the static timing on the "Z" mark with the ignition off.
I set the crank pulley to the "Z" mark on #1 cyl. and rotated the dist. until the star and outer pins of the contact lined up.

The "Z" mark was just a little retarded with the timing light; I adjusted it to "right on the money".

After tweeking the idle speed there's still some loping/surging. I believe it might be some weak fuel. The car has been off the road since 1998. I had put about 5 gallons of fresh fuel in it not trusting the fuel gauge reading before starting it up for diagnostic testing. The fuel gauges reads about 40 liters.

Thanks for your interest in the topic.

sticker on my door says 15 deg @ 1500rpm

your distributor seems to be in the correct position. BTW in order to get the distributor position changed you just pull the distributor itself out and put it back in the way it should be ( mark on the edge is where the rotor points).
Your distributor looks fine, and your timing adjustment is wrong. timing adjustment is done at some revs and with vacuum hoses disconnected from the distributor. Adjust to Z mark. Can't help with revs, look for a sticker under the hood saying something like 23 deg at 3000 RPM or whatever.
Normally on these cars it's best to adjust the timing by feel ( if you know what you're doing) b/c the gasoline is different and stock specs are too advanced for US gas anyway.

Max

Max,
Thanks for the reply.

I had just changed the timing belt and was suspicious that the dist. had moved one tooth at the pulley in the process. It true that one must remove the dist. to change its position otherwise.

The process you refer to above is "dynamic" timing; checking the timing throughout the advance curve. With the vacuum hoses disconnected one is checking the centrifugal/mechanical advance (weights & springs usually). Then connect the hoses to see the vacuum advance settings. This dist has both vacuum advance and vacuum retard to control it during accel. & decel..

There aren't any engine tune up or emissions spec. stickers in the engine compartment as one would see on a US model e21.

I did get it worked out for now. I really appreciate the help. Thanks

sticker on my door says 15 deg @ 1500rpm

That is great!! A sticker!

Thanks, I'll use that as a guide line.

BTW Does your 81 323 have any emissions on it, or is it straight K-jetronic without EGR etc.? My 79 does not.

it has a cat and egr(which is semi removed)

you want a pic of the sticker?

Dynamic timing warm (normal operating temp) with engine running, vacuum advance disconnected.

22' BTDC at fast idle (1500rpm).

it has a cat and egr(which is semi removed)

you want a pic of the sticker?

I'm sure it will not help because mine doesn't have any emissions.

Dynamic timing warm (normal operating temp) with engine running, vacuum advance disconnected.

22' BTDC at fast idle (1500rpm).

Are there ANY emissions on it? (other than the pvc/idle air control)

this help any ?

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4052/timingzo8.jpg

Wayfast:

That is really great info. I will use it as a guide. Its nice because it has all of the data points

Thanks!

323i's didnt use much in the way of emissions systems. A good deal came fitted with an EGR valve and manifold, it used to plumb back into the other side of the inlet manifold, but most have been removed leaving a whole lot of vacuum hoses (most of which dont need to be there anymore) and the cast iron exhaust manifold with the egr ports in it.

European vehicles just ran straight k-jet, so they didnt have a cat. A 323i with a cat is probably going to be something converted when it was federalized.

There were differences in static timing because of different distributors used over the years.
When I used to have e30 323i's I had the same confusion and I found some great spreadsheet with data for all distributor #'s, so you know how to adjust stuff. I believe it was on e30.de webpage,search using your distributor #,you'll find info.
There was always a sticker in the engine compartment in any euro car, yours had it but someone removed it. Original handbook will have specs as well.

Now, I assumed you had the problem with initial position of the distributor and adjusting the dynamic timing ( because if the dizzy is not in place it won't rotate far enough to adjust the timing right).
To set the initial timing ( static?) you need to have all marks set. Crank is set to OT, cam is set to mark on the head, distributor rotor pointing on the mark on the edge of distributor itself. That way the engine will start- then adjust the dynamic timing.
Like I mentioned before, the numbers for timing adjustment may not work well on old euro motor, using US gasoline...All my euro M20's had detonation with the stock setting, even with octane booster and 92 octane...These motors were built to run on leaded gas with low amount of additives ( like MTBE and other crap we get in our gas nowadays). Have a professional set it by ear. Or learn yourself, it's not too hard if you can "hear" the motor.
BTW 323i's with rebuilt heads ( shaved) I used to own always had kinda crappy idle, especially with dirty injectors and vacuum leaks. 264 deg cam won't tolerate vacuum leaks, some wear and crappy injectors together with the fuel which is different than it used to be.

Max

Hope it helps
Max

the above page from wayfast and the specs i quoted are from bmw's own manuals, they dont list anything other than 22' BTDC

All of the info has been great!

I found that the brake booster hose had a leak. Apparently, someone had ripped at it with pliers. Got the hose off a 320 in the yard and had to cut off about 3 inches to fit 323.

Running smoother.