Just wanted to post on my success with Megasquirt 2/Extra built by Jon, AKA UrineMachine. He did a very professional job building my particular box, everything was cleanly soldered, rubber grommets protecting wires from fraying, amber LED's just to match the interior lighting etc. Even a personalized printout of each of the custom connections I asked for on it. Best of all he was patient enough to answer all of my stupid noob questions.

I slowly did the install over a 3 day period, working on it for only a couple hours each day. Wiring was pretty easy, it definitely helps to have a general knowledge of wiring and having soldering experience. After I had everything all wired up I triple checked every setting in the megatune software, prayed to the megasquirt gods and attempted to start it. Incredibley after only 5-6 revolutions it started up! The freaking thing was running on its first start attempt with very basic base maps! I was impressed, so were my friends at the shop who owned other aftermarket standalone systems (AEM).

Since then I've been learning to tune and already less than a week later I have my car running as smoothly as stock, driveability wise. I have just barely tapped into what the car could make for power! Jon has been really helpful, walking me through quite a few things over the phone and it has helped tremendously.

Thanks again Jon!:buttrock
-Chris

Good work! You should get it on a dyno to see what kind of N/A numbers you can make with it.

It's refreshing to see some of you newer model owners taking a look into megasquirt.

next step

turbo +ms2 with knock detection and h20 injection
:alright

You should do a nice writeup so when I get around to the m50/s50 I will have an easy time ;)

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/JOrdanmd88/BMW%20SUMMER%202007/DSCF1564.jpg
before I started messing with it !

Thanks again Jon!:buttrock
-Chris

No prob Chris - I am glad you were patient with me starting work. It's funny though because I overnighted it to you and your parents didn't sign for it haha, oh well! Glad you're enjoying it! Turbo now!!!!



next step

turbo +ms2 with knock detection and h20 injection
:alright

You should do a nice writeup so when I get around to the m50/s50 I will have an easy time ;)

How about MS2/E with nitrous, meth injection, turbo, antilag, and knock detection :stickoutt

I've got a bunch of write ups floating around - M50/S50 is easy peasy compared to the M52/S52 motors!

before I started messing with it !

OH MY WOW....

before I started messing with it !

What are you doing? I am confused about your post Jordan - it's rosin. I told you that I started washing the PCBs in isopropyl before they go out - you can do that if you wish.

What are you doing? I am confused about your post Jordan


I'm gonna guess, show how shitty your assembly/soldiering skillz are?

:eatpop:

OH MY WOW....

Actually this is what Jordans board looked like when it left my place:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt%20Jordan/jordan2.JPG

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt%20Jordan/jordan1.JPG

directory/filename: ygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt%20Jordan/jordan1.JPG

I am sure the hair/lint is courtesy Jordan himself. Who knows what was touched when Jordan took that picture.

Cliff notes - Jordans car ran for the longest time, dyno'd 460whp, he broke the car, takes it apart, puts it together, says a solder pad is burned (... right, after the car ran perfectly for a while) and now he says the power supply is failed. It's obvious there are issues with Jordans setup. I bench test the ECU for 24 hrs before they go out - thats rosin on the board, not a big deal.

I'm gonna guess, show how shitty your assembly/soldiering skillz are?

30 ECUs running succesfully, one user has an issue that I honestly believe to be self-induced. If you saw Jordans rats nest of wiring it'd be easy to understand why he may have been able to short something.

30 ECUs running succesfully, one user has an issue that I honestly believe to be self-induced. If you saw Jordans rats nest of wiring it'd be easy to understand why he may have been able to short something.

Those pictures look fine from far away. But how about the close-up picture Jordan posted up that really matters?

You can't argue with the picture he posted up. Your huge globs of soldier and over stripped wires prove it was a shoddily assembled board.

Those pictures look fine from far away. But how about the close-up picture Jordan posted up that really matters?

You can't argue with the picture he posted up. Your huge globs of soldier and over stripped wires prove it was a shoddily assembled board.

Actually if you read what Jordan did to the unit it might explain why it looks that way. He desoldered the coil outputs and moved them around trying to find our why he was having issues... it'd be real convenient to take a picture after he junked it up to portray my work as sub par.

It's worth mentioning Jordans was the FIRST M52 unit done, and although he says "Before I touched it..." he actually had to change the circuitry for the hall effect sensor - I didn't do that for him. So, if it were so horrible, he should have mailed it back. Truth is, that's rosin on the board with crap from his area - I even told him I am now washing the boards in isopropyl alcohol and that he should do so, I told him this a few months ago... He said something to the effect of "Yeah I dunno it's fine"

I'll have M52 Power snap pics of his unit if it makes you all happy. Jordan touched that board, where/why, I am not sure. But now it's got issues with "burnt solder pads". 0.010 volts and milliamps do not burn through 0.04" vias... he has another issue, if he wants to bash my work, maybe he should post his own...

The "huge globs" of solder are bridging 2 leads to one point - it's for rigidity, notice solid core wire is used. That is all on the proto area, there are no solder pads that could be used, it's all built above the board. Its very evident that the one red wire was not soldered back into position :)

This is going to be an ugly thread that started so nice. Let's not get carried away. Jon is no scammer welding manifolds on a balcony. He's come across honest, and Jordan is the only one complaining.

Mike is going to tune Jordan's car. I know Jon and Mike have not always played nice, but I hope Mike will give an honest assessment of the box.

Anything can look ugly in close-up. Chris, can you post pics of your board similar to Jordan's close up for comparison?

Anyway, Jordan is pissed, Chris is happy, 29 ECU's claim to run, and istillsuckatsoldering so Jon's board looks pretty good to me.

If I have some free time I'll snap some pics of the internals. I had it apart when I first got it and everything was very very clean. I have experience soldering motherboards and other small electronics and it looked very good IMO for a human hand.

Let's not make this thread into a flame war, PM if you must.

Actually if you read what Jordan did to the unit it might explain why it looks that way. He desoldered the coil outputs and moved them around trying to find our why he was having issues... it'd be real convenient to take a picture after he junked it up to portray my work as sub par.



Watch it partner, I was tehre when that pic was taken - that pic was taken BEFORE any modifications were made.

This is going to be an ugly thread that started so nice. Let's not get carried away. Jon is no scammer welding manifolds on a balcony. He's come across honest, and Jordan is the only one complaining.

Mike is going to tune Jordan's car. I know Jon and Mike have not always played nice, but I hope Mike will give an honest assessment of the box.

Anything can look ugly in close-up. Chris, can you post pics of your board similar to Jordan's close up for comparison?

Anyway, Jordan is pissed, Chris is happy, 29 ECU's claim to run, and istillsuckatsoldering so Jon's board looks pretty good to me.

I am really not about to go pull up pictures of Jordans install/wiring, because I am not here to try and ruin a members reputation. Kenndogg last night explained to me late before I went to bed on AIM how much of a rats nest Jordans wiring was.

It is very clear in the pictures that I posted, ON MY DESK, that the red coil output wires came off at a different angle and there is no gap on the inner red coil wire, like Jordan's image shows. Jordan told me via AIM that he had been randomly moving the outputs around (not a good idea to randomly jumper shit around...) and now there is poorly soldered outputs (the very thing Jordan was moving) that come off the board in different angles than the original pictures... you do the math.

Please do not attempt to say that my soldering ability "sucks". I have 30 of these things assembled and running in... 10 bf.c members cars, maybe more, and all of them are being driven hard (Look at Jfdmas running 11.8 time after time). This is a futile attempt to harm my image.

Watch it partner, I was tehre when that pic was taken - that pic was taken BEFORE any modifications were made.

Can you explain why the red wires twist in the original picture but not in Jordans?

I am really not about to go pull up pictures of Jordans install/wiring, because I am not here to try and ruin a members reputation. Kenndogg last night explained to me late before I went to bed on AIM how much of a rats nest Jordans wiring was.

It is very clear in the pictures that I posted, ON MY DESK, that the red coil output wires came off at a different angle and there is no gap on the inner red coil wire, like Jordan's image shows. Jordan told me via AIM that he had been randomly moving the outputs around (not a good idea to randomly jumper shit around...) and now there is poorly soldered outputs (the very thing Jordan was moving) that come off the board in different angles than the original pictures... you do the math.

Please do not attempt to say that my soldering ability "sucks". I have 30 of these things assembled and running in... 10 bf.c members cars, maybe more, and all of them are being driven hard (Look at Jfdmas running 11.8 time after time). This is a futile attempt to harm my image.

Dude, are you fucking kidding me?? I can't see shit in your picture. If you want to blow yours up and make it a bit easier to see, then sure, but don't sit there and claim it is blatantly obvious when your pic is so damn far away.

From what little I can make out, that shit looks the same.

Dude, are you fucking kidding me?? I can't see shit in your picture. If you want to blow yours up and make it a bit easier to see, then sure, but don't sit there and claim it is blatantly obvious when your pic is so damn far away.

From what little I can make out, that shit looks the same.

Look at it - solid core wires off of 1/8" long leads. Jordan has a wire crossing 2 rows of the proto area. Check the original picture. The "inner" red wire in Jordans image is soldered in such a way that it is to come off at an angle... in the original it's straight off the lead. Solid core + short leads don't just move around. Original picture the two leads cross about 1/2" from the solder points, jordans is obviously bowing out the opposite direction.

Also, the pin pad between the two green wires is filled with solder... look in the original

Dude, are you fucking kidding me?? I can't see shit in your picture. If you want to blow yours up and make it a bit easier to see, then sure, but don't sit there and claim it is blatantly obvious when your pic is so damn far away.

From what little I can make out, that shit looks the same.

Yeah, actually when i looked again, you can see the over stripped wires and globs of soldier @ the proto area, from way back.

Yeah, actually when i looked again, you can see the over stripped wires and globs of soldier @ the proto area, from way back.

How is it over stripped? It's a wire bond...

Another i've done:

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt/MSboard1.jpg

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt/m52copMS1_2.jpg

http://blowneuroz.com/mygallery/E36%20328i%20MegaSquirt/m52copMS1_3.jpg


That's Jfdmas unit - same desk...same method of building...

:dunno I can't see a difference. Sorry if my eyesight sucks.

29/30 is pretty damn good if you ask me. I won't hesitate to buy from Jon and neither should anyone else.

:dunno I can't see a difference. Sorry if my eyesight sucks.

Dude its really not hard - look, the green wires are now touching, and the close up Jordan provides shows a very staggered sheathing length.

The inner green wire stripped area spans 3 solder pads in Jordans picture, the original shows 1 MAYBE 2, but not 3. The red wires are coming off the board at a straight angle in the originaly and twist, and both wires bow outward before the twist. Jordans picture shows a very odd angle at the solder point of the inner red wire, with both wires bowing INWARD... almost as if they may be switched around... ? In the original picture the red wires are no where near touching until the twist. In jordans picture they are pinched together almost touching... this is solid single core hook up wire, it doesn't move around unless you move it around. The sheathing pulls back if the wire is heated up... so...

We've got the green wires now touching, with one wire considerably more exposed and the sheathing considerably shorter, red wire coming off at an angle that is impossible without breaking the original solder joint/wire, with the wires crossing and bowed away, now they're bowed toward... and theres a random pin hole filled with solder between the green wires.

I don't want to point fingers, but Jordan did... and honestly, that board DEFINITELY shows signs of modification.

One problem .here on this forum...and believe me I know FIRSTHAND..
The more people you help, the more you become "open to criticism"....

If you say or do nothing to help anyone here, you are safe....
If you put yourself out there and go "above and beyond the call of duty" to help, you always seem to get a detractor, and then others always jump on the bandwagon, without even knowing the truth or accuracy of the matter...


It makes a sane or normal person, not want to help anyone..anymore....

Jon..I appreciate you, and everything you do to help others....

One problem .here on this forum...and believe me I know FIRSTHAND..
The more people you help, the more you become "open to criticism"....

If you say or do nothing to help anyone here, you are safe....
If you put yourself out there and go "above and beyond the call of duty" to help, you always seem to get a detractor, and then others always jump on the bandwagon, without even knowing the truth or accuracy of the matter...


It makes a sane or normal person, not want to help anyone..anymore....

Jon..I appreciate you, and everything you do to help others....

+1 Could not have said it better myself. Really tired of listening to others berate your work when clearly whatever you're doing simply works!

You guys bashing are a joke seriously, it's soldered by hand not by a machine in an intel lab, plus the fact the pic is magnified it makes it look bad. The soldering looks fine end of story.

Is it running with the stock sensors?

Thanks James and Marco - I take offense to this sort of criticism because I take pride in what I do.

Kenndogg/Jordan, maybe you can explain these pictures from Jordan's photobucket site? Because I see an issue between the two, but maybe I am crazy! Look at the "pointy bad solder joint" on the inner red wire...

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/JOrdanmd88/BMW%20SUMMER%202007/DSCF1561.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/JOrdanmd88/BMW%20SUMMER%202007/DSCF1564.jpg

There is a sharp valley in one pic and not the other... I am pretty sure a camera flash won't make solder disappear!!! The geometry of solder on the inner red wire changes... hmmmmmmmmm....

WOW jon since your being such an ass hole here...
I'll just let you know that the only wires we touched over there were the blue ones Spark C... Not spark A or Spark B.

so that shitty solder Job is yours son...

I'm not trying to be an Dick to you @ all, You have provided me with excellent support and help... I consider you a great E-friend. the Board was one of your 1st.

I hope you didn't forget you sent it too me with the Crank sensor shit wired up wrong...

I spend 2 days switching from Hi-low to low-hi and +12v and +5v
to get the car to crank..

You can think I'm a 'basher', I personally don't care. My point is, from the pictures I've seen, nothing screams reliability.

And as to Jon helping, he sure does-- But he also is very close minded to anything but Megasquirt. Several times I've mentioned an SM4 (for well under his $3500 price tag he claimed) and its like he doesn't believe it. Again- I don't care. I'm just trying to point these things out for people to embrace them and maybe save a few bucks on one of the best EMS' out there.

You can think I'm a 'basher', I personally don't care. My point is, from the pictures I've seen, nothing screams reliability.

And as to Jon helping, he sure does-- But he also is very close minded to anything but Megasquirt. Several times I've mentioned an SM4 (for well under his $3500 price tag he claimed) and its like he doesn't believe it. Again- I don't care. I'm just trying to point these things out for people to embrace them and maybe save a few bucks on one of the best EMS' out there.

Dude I just get quoted differently, I posted an email $2295 + they only sell if they install, which the guy said was between $1000 - $1500 with the add on coil board multiplexer... I can attach the email, hell I can forward it to you and you can ask him wtf? I already posted it twice though, you said $1650 then $1900, every place I go is $2200 + we need multiplexer and the link you listed to vivid racing will not sell you it unless they install it...


I spend 2 days switching from Hi-low to low-hi and +12v and +5v
to get the car to crank..

Do not play it off like that Jordan. We didn't know which way to wire the Hall sensor and you KNEW that. Don't play it off like I sent it wrong. You were the first Hall car I did for BMW and I told you straight up "we may need to move some jumpers".

Jordan, seriously, explain the attached picture they are both from your Photobucket site (File DSCF1564 and DSCF1561, and there is a third file DSCF1562 that shows the same solder form as DSCF1561, yet the ony you chose to post on this thread, DSCF1564... shows different solder geometry which is odd especially if you didn't touch it...)

How can this be?

Do not play it off like that Jordan. We didn't know which way to wire the Hall sensor and you KNEW that. Don't play it off like I sent it wrong. You were the first Hall car I did for BMW and I told you straight up "we may need to move some jumpers".

Jordan, seriously, explain the attached picture:


well As you can see The dog air is still in the same place... so that means the pics were taken @ the same time.. Unless i superglued the little puppy hair on to my "hacked up" board...

I think one was with flash one without...
:werd:

well As you can see The dog air is still in the same place... so that means the pics were taken @ the same time.. Unless i superglued the little puppy hair on to my "hacked up" board...

I think one was with flash one without...
:werd:

The rosin is sticky jordan its pine sap... I don't have a dog at school Jordan, so somehow that hair got in there ;) You do have dogs, multiple.

Here is a picture without flash and just ambient light. Please explain how you're going to call me out and show pics of an untouched board, but have 3 pictures on your own site showing different states of the board. There's even a piece of stripped red plastic or melted red plastic that is on the solder joint that isn't in the other pics... and regardless of if you use a flash, the plastic on the wire isn't reflecting all crazy... I dunno man, I don't like to be called out especially if there is evidence here that shit is different.

I don't see how 3 different exposures can make solder miraculously disappear...

another...

The point is, Chris posts that he is happy his car is running great and you just post a picture of a super close board with rosin on it? Whats the good in that? You had no good intentions what so ever. I expected a lot more from you.

I'm glad to know that's dog hair and not something from Mr. Blonde.

I'm glad to know that's dog hair and not something from Mr. Blonde.

I mean, there was contemplation of giving the board a mushroom tat, I mean, it was being a bitch..........

Duno man I was just taking pictures with fllash/without. with a spot light on the board I'll up load every pic from that pic taking sesson when i get home and let everyone see them all..... even the ones that were megga blury.. It's not like i Pchoped it or anything...

Duno man I was just taking pictures with fllash/without. with a spot light on the board I'll up load every pic from that pic taking sesson when i get home and let everyone see them all..... even the ones that were megga blury.. It's not like i Pchoped it or anything...

Jordan I know you didn't but the solder geometry is plainly different in each of 3 pictures, and they're all your pictures man. Red plastic doesn't show up out of no where in some pics and not in others... Those 3 pictures show 3 physically different solder joints...

I am disappointed in the pictures showing variance... but I am more disappointed that you posted this rubbish in Chris thread showing his satisfaction. That's very unlike you Jordan

Can you circle exactly what your talking about, All I am seeing is lighting differences
*not trying to be a smart ass*

it all looks the damn same to me. different lighting w/ and w/o flash.

superglued dog hair?!? stfu. hahahahahaha!!!!

BACK ON TOPIC>.

Hey congrats on getting your car running and i'm glad you have a nice clean MegaSquirt....

Can you circle exactly what your talking about, All I am seeing is lighting differences
*not trying to be a smart ass*

I dunno why the attitude is here Jordan, clean MS... dude, I have been MORE than willing to 1) clean it 2) help fix it

You were supposed to wash it in isopropyl alcohol last night - you told me you did. Did you not? If not, do it, the MS won't have rosin on it and you will have a better opportunity to fix it. If it is washed, why are you still complaining? I have bent over backwards offering help!

Jon. I took these pics before I even clean the board the 1st time... man.... This was Pre- Spark C fix... When you wanted to see pictures of the shit before i messed with it....

Jon. I took these pics before I even clean the board the 1st time... man.... This was Pre- Spark C fix... When you wanted to see pictures of the shit before i messed with it....

Jordan why are we even having this conversation inside Chris topic - I have offered my help so many times if you're unhappy then I cannot fathom how to satisfy you - I had spent hours on the phone with you when we installed it and the car ran perfectly fine once we sorted the hall sensor out - sorry for that but you were the first hall sensor BMW to run... you knew this. I have done nothing but bent over backwards to help and you keep dropping these comments around the forum. If the unit was so horrible when you received it you should have said something - but, it wasn't. You're looking at rosin that had been on there and its sticky so stuff gets on it as you can see. You had it out soldering the hall circuit, and you didn't clean the area you soldered either. It's a bit unfair to be so negative about this because the car ran fine, was delivered as promised, and I have stood behind it since. If I ditched the forum and you were stranded I could see posting this shit, but the fact is I have way more invested in this forum than an annoying MS issue that it's worth it to me to just simply offer my help.

Cmon man, this is getting ridiculous honestly.

C'mon guys. Kiss and make up. No one can tell anything from those photos anyway.

No one can tell anything from those photos anyway.

Your right, it may have been a pube, not a dog hair lol J/K

Maybe this will clear things up for you guys...

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1096/2137a9950nf3.jpg

sorry... I had to

Maybe this will clear things up for you guys...

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1096/2137a9950nf3.jpg

sorry... I had to
:lol:lol, thats funny, LMFAO!! In all honesty, you can tell a difference from the way the solder is applied in the three different pictures. One picture does have an even/smooth solder point vs. the other. Whatever the case maybe, UM has had a great success with his MS setup and the fact is, this thread was for the O/P, not " Picture taking and Soldering 101"! Congrats to the O/P.

Didnt someone just the other day post how they like this forum so much better than the others...

I think Soldering 101 should be part of the FI Forum major. Picture Taking 101 should be an elective.

I don't know about Bithching 101, maybe it should be a prerequisite to decarling FI as a major. Some people clearly have advanced placement credits in it.

BTW - I bought a Weller 75 watt soldering gun. No more excuses for me regarding the tools anyway. ("...when you pull the trunk the light was s'posed to go on...my light didn't go on.")

:shifty

:lol:lol, thats funny, LMFAO!! In all honesty, you can tell a difference from the way the solder is applied in the three different pictures. One picture does have an even/smooth solder point vs. the other. Whatever the case maybe, UM has had a great success with his MS setup and the fact is, this thread was for the O/P, not " Picture taking and Soldering 101"! Congrats to the O/P.
Dude, I actually laughed out loud, that is the funniest thing I've seen here in a while. Creative yet a giant kick in the nuts at the same time. Bravo sir.

Dude, I actually laughed out loud, that is the funniest thing I've seen here in a while. Creative yet a giant kick in the nuts at the same time. Bravo sir.
I couldn't agree more, I was laughing for a couple of seconds myself! Very funny indeed!

In my educated opinion (I have soldered well over 100 MS boards and hundreds of accessory boards) that is the same joint. It is a near impossibility to get a joint to look that much alike if you suck at soldering. I dont think Jordan could have made the joint look that much like the original.

I would doubt that the soldering was directly responsible for the board messing up if it worked for a while. It wasnt perfect, but it worked. Thats not to say it was actually anyone's fault though. MS not working is par for the course. Its a finicky device.

Didnt someone just the other day post how they like this forum so much better than the others...

Yep - I still like this forum the most out of them all.

Are you still building boards Urine Machine?

Yep - I still like this forum the most out of them all.

But what about your new friend on the e90 forum, BeerGoggles?

Are you still building boards Urine Machine?

Kinda - with work I get home pretty exhausted, but we can talk about it


But what about your new friend on the e90 forum, BeerGoggles?

Oh, yeah, that guy... haha

In my educated opinion (I have soldered well over 100 MS boards and hundreds of accessory boards) that is the same joint. It is a near impossibility to get a joint to look that much alike if you suck at soldering. I dont think Jordan could have made the joint look that much like the original.

I would doubt that the soldering was directly responsible for the board messing up if it worked for a while. It wasnt perfect, but it worked. Thats not to say it was actually anyone's fault though. MS not working is par for the course. Its a finicky device.

Yep - I still like this forum the most out of them all.

Kinda - with work I get home pretty exhausted, but we can talk about it




Oh, yeah, that guy... haha

Of course you chose to ignore a post from somebody who has seen/done it, right from the source :/

I don't see how 3 different exposures can make solder miraculously disappear...
those are 3 different pictures at 3 different angles. different lighting or different flash reflection. Same joint though. Features more visible in some pics than others, but all there and all the same.

I think Soldering 101 should be part of the FI Forum major. Picture Taking 101 should be an elective.

I don't know about Bithching 101, maybe it should be a prerequisite to decarling FI as a major. Some people clearly have advanced placement credits in it.

BTW - I bought a Weller 75 watt soldering gun. No more excuses for me regarding the tools anyway. ("...when you pull the trunk the light was s'posed to go on...my light didn't go on.")


rofl you crack me up

Jordan why are we even having this conversation inside Chris topic - I have offered my help so many times if you're unhappy then I cannot fathom how to satisfy you - I had spent hours on the phone with you when we installed it and the car ran perfectly fine once we sorted the hall sensor out - sorry for that but you were the first hall sensor BMW to run... you knew this. I have done nothing but bent over backwards to help and you keep dropping these comments around the forum. If the unit was so horrible when you received it you should have said something - but, it wasn't. You're looking at rosin that had been on there and its sticky so stuff gets on it as you can see. You had it out soldering the hall circuit, and you didn't clean the area you soldered either. It's a bit unfair to be so negative about this because the car ran fine, was delivered as promised, and I have stood behind it since. If I ditched the forum and you were stranded I could see posting this shit, but the fact is I have way more invested in this forum than an annoying MS issue that it's worth it to me to just simply offer my help.

Cmon man, this is getting ridiculous honestly.

Jon, the only thing I can think of is water in Atlanta must be contaminated. You are doing FI scene a tremendous justice by providing the cheapest alternative tuning. Keep up the good work. I already know where this garbage came from, reason why I rarely post in this forum.

One problem .here on this forum...and believe me I know FIRSTHAND..
The more people you help, the more you become "open to criticism"....

If you say or do nothing to help anyone here, you are safe....
If you put yourself out there and go "above and beyond the call of duty" to help, you always seem to get a detractor, and then others always jump on the bandwagon, without even knowing the truth or accuracy of the matter...


It makes a sane or normal person, not want to help anyone..anymore....

Jon..I appreciate you, and everything you do to help others....



+1

cant please everyone no matter how hard you try.
they want everything for nothing.

jon is a valuable asset to this community, and ill be tuning with him shortly.

:rolleyes

He said she said.

Pics look the damn same but different angles...blah blah blah

UM good job on your work with the original poster.


When is your car going to be completed?

UM FTW...

Im gonna turbo somthing and have you MS on it. haha..

Keep on kickin' ass man!

When is your car going to be completed?

My car, or OP car? UPS is delivering my entirely new bolt set today! I should make a BOM so guys rebuilding an engine from the ground up can just visit this link and order all of the nuts/bolts without having to reference the ETK like I did..

But yeah they'll be here today - 4.5 lbs worth! As for my car being "completed" thats sort of a loaded question - I don't want to reveal which, but I am going to another turbo soon :)

I don't see how 3 different exposures can make solder miraculously disappear...

another...


These all look like the same solder balls

Regardless, this is a hand soldering job. Things can go wrong after some time, especially if it's a cold solder. 24 hours is just going to verify the functionality of the ECU, it will not test how well the solder holds up to flexing while the board is installed or while wires move around somewhat within the chassis while driving the vehicle.

I've reworked numerous motherboards with high quality Metcal soldering irons, and even then soldering by hand is not guaranteed. I doubt this was done with a metcal, so I can understand some sloppiness.

Completely hand assembled PCB's are a gamble.

My car, or OP car? UPS is delivering my entirely new bolt set today! I should make a BOM so guys rebuilding an engine from the ground up can just visit this link and order all of the nuts/bolts without having to reference the ETK like I did..

But yeah they'll be here today - 4.5 lbs worth! As for my car being "completed" thats sort of a loaded question - I don't want to reveal which, but I am going to another turbo soon :)

No prob

Just was checking glad to hear progress.

Good luck

These all look like the same solder balls

Regardless, this is a hand soldering job. Things can go wrong after some time, especially if it's a cold solder. 24 hours is just going to verify the functionality of the ECU, it will not test how well the solder holds up to flexing while the board is installed or while wires move around somewhat within the chassis while driving the vehicle.

I've reworked numerous motherboards with high quality Metcal soldering irons, and even then soldering by hand is not guaranteed. I doubt this was done with a metcal, so I can understand some sloppiness.

Completely hand assembled PCB's are a gamble.

Careful now. When I say such things its "bashing". ;)

Component mass, vibration intensity, expansion and contraction from heat cycles, all play a major role in the life span of a PCB based device. Nothing lasts forever, but some things will last longer than others based on the design.

when jordan's HG popped, I suggested checking the injector outputs and verifying the ignition outputs and timing on each coil with a timing light. I recommend doing this on the install of any ECU. Saying the car was running well and then everything went to crap after a HG failure could mean one of two things. UM seems to be implying that the HG failed, then in the process of fixing things damaged the MS. The other possibility is that the MS had an issue, caused the popped HG, and the root of the problem wasn't discovered until after the vehicle was reassembled.

I don't see any problems with the water down here.


Back on topic though, i'm interested to see what the M52 makes on the dyno as it sits now with the MS on it. Without vanos, it definately won't make anywhere near the same functional total power, but perhaps it can do well WRT the peak number.

When is it getting tuned again?

while all you MS builders are around, just out of curiosity, how fast do you go through soldering tips and what is your weapon of choice? (soldering iron)

while all you MS builders are around, just out of curiosity, how fast do you go through soldering tips and what is your weapon of choice? (soldering iron)

I don't build megasquirts, but i have hand assembled a custom acquisition fixture for a hypertransport bus when i used to work at AMD as a debug engineer. i'm talking signals that are differential signaling 10x more sensitive than anything on a MS board. i used a metcal and some praying. http://www.metcal.com/ and i never went through tips, i used just 1.

:eek: i had no idea that kind of shit existed!

Haha talk about overkill.

One tip usually lasted me a couple weeks (five days a week 8 hours a day) before I started to notice its performance decrease. I could still use it for another month, it was just knowing how to get good use of it. When a tip starts to "go bad" it will not get hot enough in some spots. Sometimes only one side will heat up well. Just make sure you tin the tip really well. Glob tons of solder on there, wipe it on your wet sponge, and then do it again. Try to get solder to melt on the "cold" parts of the tip.

It couldnt hurt to get a new tip though. Its refreshing how well the iron works (sad, I know).

I work at L-3 Communications, our division does telemetry for... things, and I have been in touch with tons of our solderers and all - if you use a damp sponge and don't let the iron heat for long without use, a tip should last you a long time. Look at Weller stations.

Guys Guys Guys. The tips don't go "bad" permanently that quickly. The dark layer that builds up on the tip and can't be wiped off by the wet sponge can still be removed by stuff called tip tinner. It comes in a little tin and looks like white goo. You twist and drag the hot tip through the goo and it removes the black oxidation. Just be warned, it smells awful. But you're left with a new looking shiny tip!

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=4910-28G-ND

Sorry for the OT post. Btw, nice job with the OP's car UM.

Austin

Guys... Jon touched me in appropiate places. He's a bad, bad man...






















:devillook

You guys are a riot :)

Guys... Jon touched me in appropiate places. He's a bad, bad man...






















:devillook

You too? :ponder