Hey guys, I know this is a problem that pops up a lot, but I cannot seem to to the tricks that everyone talks about. Ive pulled the door handle up, and turned the key as hard as I could both ways, and nothing happens.

I also tried using an extension cord (one side just has open wires) plugging it into the wall, and then hooking up the positive and negative sides to the trunk lights, and the fog light in the front, and nothing happened.

Anything else I should do or try?

Thanks in advance.

-Drew

From www.e38.org/e32 (http://www.e38.org/e32):


http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/trouble/Locked.htm

It boggles me why the turning the key thing will not work. I really crank it hard, and it does not budge at all.

After reading the instructions over and over, my main discrepancy is in the word "master key". How do I know if I have the master key? My key is a stock BMW one, but on the metal it has the letter "S" in it. Does this mean spare?

On some car keys...the 'S' equates to 'Security'. I have found many 'chipped' keys with an 'S' imprint, but also a few with no imprint at all. It may be up to the individual vehicle manufacturer, as there seems to be little commonality to the practice, as I have experienced it.

jake

If you hooked up the extension cord to 120 volt ac wall socket and connected to your lights. I am afraid you have more of a problem then being locked out. Maby like a fried electrical system.

I have successfully unlocked mine with the passenger door handle in the past but just had this happen to me last week and it didn't work. I'm thinking I must have unknowingly dead-bolted it & perhaps that overrides the emergency unlock? Luckily I left the windows slightly open and could reach in with a coathanger and hook the door lock.

Anyway, you should be able to jack up the left front corner & reach up & clip a battery charger to the larger lug on the starter solenoid (+) and any convenient ground for the minus. Be careful to only clip to the one lug on the starter so as to not engage the starter. There is a large gauge wire that goes directly from the starter solenoid to the +12V post under the hood, so that is a valid means to input 12V. I know my 735i has a clear shot from underneath to the starter (long arms). I don't know about 740's or 750's.

Years ago I added a live cigarette lighter socket in the trunk near the storage cubby and wired it directly to the battery post with a 20 Amp self-resetting breaker and it also works as a means to feed 12V into the battery.

Your foglights wouldn't work as an input source if the switch isn't already on. One time I successfully blew the fuse to the trunk light circuit while messing with the light and it appears ambiguous which side is + and which side is minus, so I wouldn't take that as a safe means to feed 12V into the car. I would go with the starter solenoid lug in your case.

+1 on getting under the car to charge using alternator or starter posts.

I also tried using an extension cord (one side just has open wires) plugging it into the wall, and then hooking up the positive and negative sides to the trunk lights, and the fog light in the front, and nothing happened. { :eek: :eek: :eek: }
Drew

OMG :eyecrazy :eek: :eyecrazy You hooked your car's 12-volt (DC) system up directly to regular household current's 120-volt (AC) system? :nono Errr, uhhh...I believe something happened alright...we just don't know as to WHAT and how extensive, yet.
************************************************** ******************************************

1. Make sure you lift & hold up the handle while turning the key.

2. the lock cylnders do NOT turn in the same direction to unlock:
- passenger side lock cylinder turns CLOCKWISE to unlock
- drivers side lock cylinder turns COUNTER clockwise to unlock

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_366.jpg_http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_150.jpg

3. Sometimes you need to "pump" the handle as you turn it to the emergency unlock position.

4. Yes, the emergency unlock procedure was designed to UNLOCK the car even if it has been double-locked (dead-bolted).

5. If the car is truly double-locked (dead-bolted)...reaching inside to pull up on the door pin or pulling a door handle WILL NOT open the door (its double-locked) ;) ...only the master keys will unlock the door

6. ALL the keys are "essentially" master keys EXCEPT the service/valet key. If you look at the key blade of the service/valet key..you can see how it is different from the rest. It will open the door and work in the ignition...but won't open the trunk or glove box if their lock cylinder is turned to the "secured" position. The master key, general key, wallet key, and spare key ALL will work to unlock the door. (see image below of the keys and note the difference of the key blade on the service/valet key)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_128_full.jpg

The emergency unlock is known by lifting the passenger door handle and then turning the key over a certain resistance.
Even with a dead battery the trunk can be opened with the key by turning it anti-clockwise and then push the door unlock button.

To avoid wrong connection of power to the wires or to blow the fuse, Timm from the 7 series register in the U.K. has made a nice write-up:

A few pointers to connecting power to the boot/trunk lamp:

Firstly, the boot/trunk light is a good place to connect power as it is constantly connected to the battery via Fuse 33. However, you must only use a charger at this point, and only one that can supply a maximum of 10A. If you use a fully-charged battery you will blow Fuse 33.

The boot/trunk light has two wires going to it, RED/WHITE is the positive supply, connect the chargers +ve terminal to here. Connect the charger-ve lead to somewhere on the chassis.....this removes any possibility of reverse polarity.

When the charger is connected and charging, allow 10 minutes before trying the central locking, this is just enough time to get enough charge in the battery to supply the locks.

If you have not got a charger you can use a battery but MUST connect it via a 55W (headlamp) bulb. This reduces the current to a safe level.

DON'T connect to any other lighting point, these go via the LKM or General Module and it is not a good idea to stuff power up these!

[QUOTE=Qsilver7;10578743]OMG :eyecrazy :eek: :eyecrazy You hooked your car's 12-volt (DC) system up directly to regular household current's 120-volt (AC) system? :nono Errr, uhhh...I believe something happened alright...we just don't know as to WHAT and how extensive, yet.
************************************************** ******************************************

1. Make sure you lift & hold up the handle while turning the key.

2. the lock cylnders do NOT turn in the same direction to unlock:
- passenger side lock cylinder turns CLOCKWISE to unlock
- drivers side lock cylinder turns COUNTER clockwise to unlock

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_366.jpg_http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_150.jpg

3. Sometimes you need to "pump" the handle as you turn it to the emergency unlock position.

4. Yes, the emergency unlock procedure was designed to UNLOCK the car even if it has been double-locked (dead-bolted).

5. If the car is truly double-locked (dead-bolted)...reaching inside to pull up on the door pin or pulling a door handle WILL NOT open the door (its double-locked) ;) ...only the master keys will unlock the door

6. ALL the keys are "essentially" master keys EXCEPT the service/valet key. If you look at the key blade of the service/valet key..you can see how it is different from the rest. It will open the door and work in the ignition...but won't open the trunk or glove box if their lock cylinder is turned to the "secured" position. The master key, general key, wallet key, and spare key ALL will work to unlock the door. (see image below of the keys and note the difference of the key blade on the service/valet key)

[

Thanks for all the replies! And yes, I realized that was a risky/dumbass idea with the house outlet power hooked into the light bulb. I went out, and did the key thing one last time (50th time), and did the pump method, and it popped the lock finally. Ive never seen that suggested until now.

Thanks again for the replies guys, The car has been sitting in front of my house for months now. I really hope I dont have an electrical problem now :(, but we will see.

Glad you got into your car, keep us posted and hopefully you escaped damage to the electrical sysyem.