i would like to thank Kevin for this excellent guide.

Tools Required:

• Phillips Screw Driver (corner lamps)
• Flat Head Screw Driver (optional for headlight cover)
• Pliers (handy to have)
• Electrical Tape
• Sturdy Copper Wire (to use as a wire fish)
• 10mm Socket or Wrench (ground nut, coolant reservoirs)
• Adjustable Wrench (positive battery terminal)
• T25 Torx Bit (ECU box cover)
• wire Loom (optional)

Installation

Install Time: (anywhere from 30-90min., if you had to do it a second time it will be much quicker)
Before you begin:
a) Inspect and test your kit prior to installing. If any thing is not working, best to get it replaced before taking your headlights apart.
b) Pop open your hood.
c) Get lots of water if you dehydrate fast. :)

Step 1. Headlight lense removal
(Driver's side shown, Passenger side similar)

1a) Remove the turn signal corner lamp. Use a Philips Screw Driver to loosen the retaining screw as pictured below. The screw does not come out so don't keep turning or you'll be turning forever. Once loosen, slide the corner lamp forward and undo the bulb connector. Set the lamp aside

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes05.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes06.jpg

1b) Remove the rubber trim surrounding the top/side of your headlight. You can easily undo the top 3 tabs with your fingers by lifting the tabs from behind. The two tabs on side might be easier with a flat head screw driver.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes07.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes08.jpg

1c) Remove the lower painted headlight trim. If you have the cold weather package with the headlight washer like I do, it will be easier if you did not remove the entire trim. Start by unlatching the trim from the end closest to the grill then the latch that is visible from where the corner lamp was removed. To unlatch you simply reach from behind and unhook it similar to how your removed the rubber trim. If you have the headlight washer, you do not need to disconnect it, just tilt the trim piece out as far as you can. That should give you enough clearance. If you do not have the headlight washer it's up to you if you want to remove it entirely or just tilt it out.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes09.jpg

1d) Remove the clear headlight cover lense. Tools aren't really necessary here. There are three plastic tabs on top, one on the side, and three on the bottom that must be unlatched. Carefully pull up on each tab till it releases from lense. As you work your way around each tab you should be able to remove the lense by sliding it out.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes10.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes11.jpg

1e) Remove the OEM inner trim bezel. The bezel simply pulls straight out. No tools needed.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes12.jpg

Step 2) Mounting The Angel Eyes Rings

2a) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the DRL (flasher) reflector. At the top of the reflector is a lip. Simply slide the alligator clip at the top of the Angel Eyes onto the top of the reflector lip. See image below for proper spacing of the clips. You do not push both clips all the way in, only the inner clip (closest to grill) is pushed all the way while the other clip (closest to the Bi-Xenon projector) has some spacing. The easiest way to do this is to slide both clips in all the way then pull the clip closest to the projector out till the inner lip of the clip stops it from coming out any further. Now look over the Angel Eye ring to make sure it's even all the way around and lined up.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes13.jpg

2b) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the Bi-Xenon projector. This one can be tricky. You have to make sure you do not push the clip all the way in otherwise it will touch the top of your projector housing. Simply push it till it gets within 1-2mm from the top of the projector housing. Don't worry as it will not fall off.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes14b.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes14b.jpg

2c) (Optional) Remove the intake duct from the air box on the drivers side so you have additional room to work.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes15.jpg

2d) Remove the H7 bulb from (flasher) socket and peel the rubber boot back. Surrounding the H7 bulb socket is a rubber boot. Peel back on the boot from the top to allow you to pass the Angel Eye wires through.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes16.jpg

2e) Feed the Angel Eye wires from the front (above the reflector) to the back through the rubber boot. First tape each pair of wires together so that when you pull them through you will know which pair is which. Second, to aid in the process, a sturdy wire will help you pull the wires through. Feed the sturdy wire through from the front to the back and through the boot opening. Wrap the wire around the Angel Eye wires and tape it down with electrical tape. Now pull it through from the boot side. See pictures below.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes17.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes18.jpg

2f) (Optional, not recommended, skip to step 2h) Make a small incision on the rubber boot with a small pocket knife. This will allow you to pass the wires through the boot and also allow you to reinstall the boot around the socket opening. Otherwise, you can always close the boot around the wires.

2g) (Optional, only if step 2f is performed) Feed the Angel Eye wires through the boot. Using needle nose pliers, grab one of the Angel Eye wires by the terminal and stick it through the boot opening that you made in the previous step. Then on the other side of the boot, use your needle nose pliers again to pull the wire through. Do this for the other 3 wires till all four wires are through. You can now reposition the boot and reinstall it. You can also reinstall the H7 bulb now.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes19.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes20.jpg

2h) Install Angel Eye wire connectors. The polarity does not matter as long as you have the correct pair of wires. The wire terminal goes to the two outer holes on the supplied connector. Do not install the terminal in the middle hole. Inserted the terminal through the connector and use needle nose pliers to tug on the terminal end to insure it locks in place. Give the other end a light tug to make sure the wire does not come out of the connector.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes21.jpg

Step 3) Wire Harness Installation

3a) Lay the wire harness on top of the engine bay. The relay should be near the passenger side positive (+) battery terminal. See image below for the correct positive terminal. The shorter end of the harness coming from the relay should follow the passenger fender to the passenger headlight. The longer end should go across the engine to the driver's side fender towards the driver's side headlight.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes22.jpg

3b) Ground the relay. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 10mm nut located in the passenger power terminal area. Mount your relay and ground here. The ground wire is the short black wire coming out of the relay with a ring terminal at the end of it. See picture below. Optionally, you can utilize the factory 19mm ground terminal as pictured in the previous step (step 3a).

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes23.jpg

3c) Route the short harness to the passenger side headlight. If you lift the weather stripping from the passenger side power terminal area, you can slide the harness under the factory harness bundle then route it down the passenger fender to the passenger headlight.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes24.jpg

3d) Connect the black rectangular igniter ballast box to the harness (pictured below) and also to the passenger side Angel Eyes (not pictured). Do not mount (tape) the igniter box just yet.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes25.jpg

3e) Route the long harness across the top of the engine and secure it over the OEM wire holder. See pictures below.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes26.jpg

3f) Route the long harness through to the brake fluid / ECU box area then down the drivers side fender. I chose to go through the OEM weather stripping as pictured below. Leave the trigger wire in the ECU box area for now and run the harness down the drivers fender (being as neat as possible).

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes27.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes27b.jpg

3g) Connect the black rectangular igniter box to the harness and drivers side Angel Eyes. Do not mount the igniter box just yet.

3h) Connect the red wire from the relay to the positive (+) terminal found in the power terminal area.
(NOTE: If you have the OEM Navigation, make sure it is completely turned off and not on before beginning. There is a chance that your navigation can become damaged if you pull the power when it is powered on.)
First you must locate the OEM hood switch and unplug the connector. Next lift the weather stripping out of the way then lift the cover up by grabbing under where the positive terminal is. See first picture below. Use a 13mm socket to remove the 13mm nut from the positive terminal. Locate the red wire (with an inline fuse) coming out of the relay and mount it on the positive terminal. I chose to install the red wire underneath the OEM battery cable. Do the reverse to put it all back together then zip tie any lose cables. TIP: If you zip tie the inline fuse holder to the relay as pictured below (3rd pic on the right) you'll have easy access to the fuse).

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes28.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes28b.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes28c.jpg

3i) You are now ready to test your Angel Eyes. Coming off the relay should be a second trigger wire that is brown. Have someone touch the brown wire to the positive terminal or use a clamp then examine if your Angel Eyes work. If all is good, remove the brown wire from the positive terminal.

3j) Assuming everything is in working order after testing it above, you can choose to mount the rectangular igniters now or wait till you are done with your install. I secured mine directly on top of the headlight tucked under the radiator support where you can not see it. See image below.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes29.jpg

Step 4) Trigger Wire Installation
(Accessories wire method)

Note: The Accessories wire method is one of many ways to wire the Angel Eyes. This method will allow you to have the Angel Eyes on all the time whenever the car is running. This is independent of whether your headlights/parking lights are on or off. When you turn off your car, the Angel Eyes will stay on for a few seconds since there is still power through the accessories wire. This will not cause any power drain issues as the Angel Eyes do not draw a lot of power.

4a) Open the cover to the ECU box using a Torx 25 bit to remove four Torx head screws. (Note: Some earlier cars might be HEX 27). Once the screws are removed, tilt the cover up and pull out.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes30.jpg

4b) Locate the red wire with white stripe and yellow/gold tracers. Install your blue wire tap using your pliers. DO NOT cut any wires or yank on any wires.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes31.jpg http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes32.jpg

4c) Route the red trigger wire into the ECU box and connect the end to the blue wire tap. I chose to lift one of the rubber grommets and lay the red trigger wire under. You can fish it through the grommet if you like for a more professional look.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes33.jpg

4d) Test the Angel Eyes by turning your ignition to position 2. If your Angel Eyes light up then you are good to go and you can begin cleaning up the loose ends.

4e) Reinstall the ECU box cover at this point if your Angel Eyes are working ok.

Step 5) Clean Up

5a) Tape the 2nd Trigger wire. If you are not using the second trigger wire (wire closest to relay), you should tape it using electrical tape and tuck it away. Make sure to tape up the connector end so that it doesn't accidentally get in contact with the frame of the car.

5b) Zip tie the harness. Using zip ties, secure the harness down along the fender, etc. Make sure no wires come in direct contact with the engine.

5c) (Optional, assuming you made a slit on the rubber boot from steps 2f/g) Silicone the incision area on the rubber boot where the Angel Eye wires were installed. This should prevent any moisture from possibly getting into your headlights.

5d) With the lense still off the headlights, check the Angel Eyes to make sure they are still aligned and in the proper position.

5e) Reinstall your headlight inner bezel but DO NOT snap on the upper outer corner. If you snap it in place it will push the Angel Eye ring too close to your projector housing and possibly interfere with the self leveling adjustments. It will be fine to leave that one corner loose.

5f) Reinstall your headlight lense and trim following the reverse procedures you following for removal.

5g) Using some wire loom, dress up the wires coming from the back of the headlights, the wires from the igniter ballast to the harness, etc.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes36.jpg

5h) If you did not mount the igniter boxes from step 3j, mount them now. You do not want those boxes bouncing around when you are driving. :-) I secured mine directly on top of the headlight tucked under the radiator support where you can not see it. See image below.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc112/BavToys/angeleyes29.jpg

Step 6) Go out, drive your car, and enjoy your new Angel Eyes!!!

Great DIY...Its like you dont have to think at all....Is there a diy for e36

Great DIY. A big decision in get one of these Angel Eyes. I was trying to figure how hard it will be to install them before buy them.

are there any DIY's on 04 E46's?? where the headlight unit is one piece?

I did this write-up a while back, it's for my E38 but it should help out line the secondary trigger install for others too.
For instance on the E46 you go in through the firewall on the passenger side and hook into the Pass. footwell light under the glove box.

I think it's a worthwhile contribution to the new lighting forum.
____________________________________
I decided to put together a DIY For E38 owners who have the Umnitza Predator Chromium Angel Eyes.....

There is a brown wire in the harness that umnitza supplys with the Angel eyes, this is known as a secondary trigger wire.
When this wire is hooked into the circuit that sends power to your interior lights your angel eyes will light when you lock and unlock your car, and fade in and out like your interior lights do when you hit the unlock button on your key...

It's a wonderful feature... I love being able to hit a button in a dark parking lot and see them glow.

Since there is no write-up on this anywhere I've seen and Matt from Umnitza Needed some Pics for his Web site I thought I would throw this together...

Pop your hood....We will be working here first. Behind the drivers side shock tower.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/HoodWorkArea.jpg?t=1178072980

The first thing we want to do is remove the plastic piece and small metal clamp from the hood release cable...We will be entering the firewall thru the grommet around the hood release cable.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Hoodrelease.jpg?t=1178073358
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/HoodReleaseCablemountunhooked.jpg?t=1178073394
I used a panel removal tool, screwdriver and some patience to pop mine off.

Now that we have removed the plastic cover, make a small cut in the top of the grommet with a utility knife...
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/hoodreleasegrommet.jpg?t=1178073576

Next we remove the drivers side footwell covering. This is secured by 3-4 phillips head screws and two twist knobs.. It comes off very easily..
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Driverssidefootwell.jpg?t=1178073905

After its off and you look up twords the hood release cable you'll see this... "Its behind the E-Brake Arm in this pic.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/footwellpanelremoved.jpg?t=1178074023

Now that you have removed the footwell panel you can put a Coat hanger or mechanics fishing tool through your cut on the grommet in the engine bay.. like so.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Coathangeringrommet.jpg?t=1178074138

Get youself 3-4 feet of wire and extend the brown remote trigger wire so its long enough to fish where we need it....Dont forget to do an nice job and solder and shrink wrap it like me.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Soldertriggerwire.jpg?t=1178074326

Fish the wire neatly back to the hood release area..
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/TriggerwireEnginecompartmentfish.jpg?t=1178074477

Now that the trigger wire is extended and fished back to where we want it, Tape it to the end of your wire nice and tight and fish it through...

The interior side of the grommet is behind that big wiring loom....Its also where our power wire will be found...
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Footwellgrommetshot.jpg?t=1178074633
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Wirehangerpulled.jpg?t=1178074656

The next step is to remove the light on the bottom your drivers door, You want to do this to identify the positive wire for the light. You will be tapping into this in the footwell area to get your power for the trigger...
BMW used different wire colors so its best to remove and check what we want to tap into...
It pops off easily with a panel removal tool or screwdriver...
My wires were Red with blue stripe "Positive" and Brown W/white stripe "Negative".
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/D.jpg?t=1178075000

So now that we have identified the wire we need our power from we go back to the footwell and remove the tape from the large wire loom so we can find and tap into our power source...
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Doorlightpositiveidentified.jpg?t=1178075185

I removed the tape and singled out "Wraped around" the wire we need to tap ^^.... Get out your handy 18-22 guage wire tap... "Radio Shack"....
And put one end around your fished wire from your DDE relay and one around your positive from your door light..
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Wiretap1.jpg?t=1178075537
Snap it in..
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/DDE%20Remote%20Trigger/Wiretapfinal.jpg?t=1178075573
And thats it...Button everything back up the way you found it, secure the clamp and collar on the hood release cable and pat yourself on the back you now have Remote controlled Angel Eyes....



http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u305/Lexicon740il/roof1.jpg?t=1189016699

added to the DIY stickey, with credit to author...:)

are there any DIY's on 04 E46's?? where the headlight unit is one piece?

same as above except for:

pull the headlights off, preheat the oven to 225-250 And remove all screws from the headlight housing as possible. remove everything metal and rubber that you can tol not to welt or cook anything.

remove the bulbs, Flasher bulb is behind the round port. Pull plug straight up to remove. Then the hard metal wire clip push down and slid to the side to unclip. The bulb will come out very easily.

leave off the all caps that coved the bulbs, so no heat would be trapped in the housing, just to be safe.

15 minutes later, pull them apart with a big flat screw driver. It should be pretty easy.

install the angel eys.

Back in the oven, to seal them up, install the bulbs, screws, and mount the head lights.

added to the DIY stickey, with credit to author...:)


Thanks Habbie, I'm happy to contribute. I hope it helps some folks :)

Hi there. I'm having a having a tough time finishing my electrical. I purchased a complete, sealed, angel eyes headlight kit from Umnitza, all assembled and pre wired. I removed the old headlight unit and installed the new one no problem. I then hooked up the ballast and tested for power. I have power but the lights come on as soon as the battery is connected, even with the car shut off. I have the 2 trigger wires (brown and red) which I wasn't EXACTLY sure where to connect. I was told by umnitza that I could tap the wires to the front turn signals. This did not work. I believe I must tap the accessories wire in the ecu box yes? I tried this last night but there are a LOT of red wires and red and white wires in there. I have no idea which one to tap. Also, do I need to use both the brown and red wires from the headlights or just the red one? Being in Canada i need to hook it up for daytime running light operation as well, which I hear is a red and white wire in the ecu box (one of the many red and white wires that is)

thanks,

nix

This is for a '95 740i (not for my M5 pictured below!)

Here are pictures of the rear of my headlight unit with power hooked up as well as a picture of my ecu. You can see the brown and red wires frmo the headlight unit which i need help with.

Thanks!

nix

any DIY angel eyes predator chromium for e36 depo?

The write up (first one in) is exceptional, Thanks

-Mike