I twist and turn at night knowing my 4.4 V8 only makes 282hp. Does anyone else? I mean in comparison to todays V8 engines this m62 is kinda sad. There are a few naturally aspired V6's out there pushing close to, if not over this. Especially with this thing being so big and heavy the 282hp is really under powering the car in my opinion. Even in 2001 when the e38 ended it's run the engine was still at 282hp. Okay so how do we hit 300hp with our m62 or m62tu engine? I know hp gain is not easily attained without $$$$, but I'm looking for 18 horses here. What can I do to get there with the least amount of cash. Is the cold air intake the way to go? Or, is the Dinan chip the best bang for the $$$. K&N air filter? S/C? What's the quickest, and cheapest way to get an 18hp gain? I do find it disturbing that the Mustang GT sitting next to me at the stop light has more horses coming from a stock 4.0L Ford engine than I do in a large, heavy, BMW 740i sedan. I'm not asking for too much am' I? Anyone have answers? lets hear them!!!!!!
Thanx
Lyon

(Evil Grin). :devillook

Dinan software and CAI get you close, I believe.

Throw in an exhaust and you should be at or above 300HP, for probably about $3,000...

Or, you could always just focus on the torque number...!

TQ is the real number. Who need HP when you have that!!

hmm if your going to spend 3k on dinan mods just to get 18 why not spend 5k on a supercharger and be in the 440's...ask simeon, cody, blackwolf, bimmerfxr,bmw5868...i think these are the s/c guys i may be wrong on one or 2 haah sorry

(Evil Grin). :devillook

I second the motion :D

Im a bit confused by the original post. All this fuss over 18BHP? I dont understand. If it was 50 or so I could undertstand your point.

FWIW the stock 4.0 (IE not GT) ford is 210BHP and the 4.6 (GT) puts out 300.

S\C the M62.

For what its fworth, the 4.6 in the mustang barely makes 300 and doesnt do much more at the wheels than our motors.

Also for what its worth these V6's and HP numbers are irrelelvant. V6's might make HP but they will NEVER match our overall power output. I havent had a single one hang with my sport.

Why dont you buy a 3.46 LSD and forget about it. Noone will ever touch you in a stock mustang GT

I twist and turn at night knowing my 4.4 V8 only makes 282hp. Does anyone else? I mean in comparison to todays V8 engines this m62 is kinda sad. There are a few naturally aspired V6's out there pushing close to, if not over this. Especially with this thing being so big and heavy the 282hp is really under powering the car in my opinion. Even in 2001 when the e38 ended it's run the engine was still at 282hp. Okay so how do we hit 300hp with our m62 or m62tu engine? I know hp gain is not easily attained without $$$$, but I'm looking for 18 horses here. What can I do to get there with the least amount of cash. Is the cold air intake the way to go? Or, is the Dinan chip the best bang for the $$$. K&N air filter? S/C? What's the quickest, and cheapest way to get an 18hp gain? I do find it disturbing that the Mustang GT sitting next to me at the stop light has more horses coming from a stock 4.0L Ford engine than I do in a large, heavy, BMW 740i sedan. I'm not asking for too much am' I? Anyone have answers? lets hear them!!!!!!
Thanx
Lyon

he might be able to take you off the line (as with a lot of other smaller cars will be able to) but from a roll on the highway, that other car will never stand a chance. don't fuss over 18 hp. go big, S/C it and u will have over 400 ponies and a highway monster

btw a lot of the v6s lie, a friend of mine has a 06 tl, they are rated at 260 and when he first got it he dynoed it and it was 220....so i think our cars arent too bad

btw a lot of the v6s lie, a friend of mine has a 06 tl, they are rated at 260 and when he first got it he dynoed it and it was 220....so i think our cars arent too bad

Manufacturers quote flywheel HP, not HP at the wheels. Depending on drive train and transmission there will be anywhere from 15-25% loss at the wheels.
The dyno test for your friend is just about right on.

Are you looking for HP or off the line?

IMAO S/C from VFE is a steal @ 6k for HP 420+ @ crank (big difference). You just need to consider your long term goals. Piece-mealing CAI, Exhaust, software, will cost you ALOT more with less HP gains. Although if you are looking for just 18 hp CAI, and ECU flash should get you there. Remember 18hp for a 4300 lb vehicle will hardly be noticed. You will notice the throatier noise more than the extra HP.

Off the line acceleration might be remedied by a lower diff, maybe $1500? Check with Koala motor sports for that. This will increase your 0-60's

If it makes you feel better, I took a last-gen mustang GT on the highway. Guy was bugging me for miles to run, I just did to get him to leave me alone. :) I haven't been harassed by a newer GT yet. ... As others have said, the 282bhp is not the only number that our engine boasts, 324ft/lbs is nothing to laugh at, this car hauls, especially for the size of it.

That said though, if you really need more power ... first replace all of the seals that you've been talking about in previous posts ;) ... then slap a S/C on there ... Once VF gets the stage 2 out, you can make ~475bhp ... a couple more mods and your V8 just reached ///M territory. :D

Keep us posted on your decision. :thumbup:

Alright Thanx for all your GREAT input. I know this car really moves, espcially with it being a big, heavy, lux sedan, it's hard to ask for anything more. I'm not a racer, once in a while I will run with someone from a stoplight at the wee hours of the morn. I don't plan to take it to the track (maybe the supercharger would change that..LOL), but want to get better performance from the V8. I think if I had bought the "Sport" I would have been okay with it, as it sounds a bit quicker with those gears. I guess I'm just looking for that little extra boost off the line. I've got no problem with the passing speeds on the highway, this thing just floats past the other cars with ease. I would like to be able to lauch a bit quicker from a stop. I guess I'm looking for the torque boost in that case. Don't know much about forced induction, Im under the impression that there is a lag from a stop, is this the case? If so that's not what I'm looking for. Actually, (This is kinda cool) my fiance is more of a hp fanatic than I am'. She is used to hearing about these new cars coming out with excessive 300+ hp numbers and she feels deprived...LOL...No JOKE....She is a HUGE 350 Z fan and when she learned that the previous gen Z had 287 coming from it's 6 cyl., she bout freaked out!!!!...LOL...she's all about the numbers, she's only drive the seven once for about 5 miles on congested city streets. I do agree with her tho, as this thing should have more power from a V8 engine. So, with all that said I would like to get as much hp/torque as I can for as little $$$$ as I can. $3,000 seems to be a good budget to get to over 300hp out of the m62. I don't think the S/C would be the way to go for me at this point, as this is my daily driver. Although it's good to know $5k could get me over the 400hp mark. I've heard the Dinan chip is under $500, is this the case? If so would that give me a substantial gain or would I need to do other mods to see any real improvments coming from the software? SEVEN40: The car is going into the dealer on Monday of next week to have all problems fixed under warranty. It will be there 4-5 days. They will be doing valley pan gasket, upper timming cover gaskets, thrust rods (bushings & boots), front brakes (rotors, pads and sensors) and fixing whatever mechanism holds the drivers side door open (so it does't close on my leg anymore..LOL) Hopefully I won't have to spend too much out of pocket. My deductible on the EASYCARE warranty is $200. I know the brake work is not covered, so that will be a good chunk, but the other stuff should be just $200 if all goes well. Any more suggestions, comments and info is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!
Lyon

(Evil Grin). :devillook

+1

SEVEN40: The car is going into the dealer on Monday of next week to have all problems fixed under warranty ...

:) I wasn't getting on you about maintenance man ... just saying, if you are going to make your engine produce more power, would be good to ensure nothing was leaking up front. It's awesome that you bought that warrenty though, seems like it's going to pay for itself! :alright

If you are willing to lay down 3K on the engine to gain 18 hp which you will be hard pressed to feel:rolleyes. Why not wait and put the extra money toward the S/C setup and have a gain of over a hundred hp:eyecrazy Heck you might be able to find a used system somewhere and go with it. To me spending 3k on 18hp is like going to the bathroom and flushing that cash down the drain. JMHO
Also think of what your girl will say when you tell her that the 7 now has over 400hp. As the hammer is dropped the excietment will grow!!.. Lol

Also think of what your girl will say when you tell her that the 7 now has over 400hp. As the hammer is dropped the excietment will grow!!.. Lol[/quote]

well said haha

ya how much do dinan chips go for? and what exactly is S/C? im not familiar or i may be and it's just an abbreviation lol

there is no lag on the S/C; the S/C kicks in around 2800 RPM to 7000(limiter increased). You have not reduced your compression ratio so no performance reduction or "lag". Your normal engine + ; torque is 400+ with S/C

S/C kit come with CAI, new injectors, the failing OSV is replaced, etc.

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

Sounds like you just need to get a lower diff to increase your 0-60.
sport models were 3:15, you can go higher, for more 0-60 reduction, with cost of higher RPm's, etc.

Your Dinan engine software matches the direct Dinan mods= CAI, intake, etc. Each addition is $$ ...

The transmission software might be worth it...

Up to you but i would investigate what is the best "bang" for the buck and what you want out of the 7. I did this and I am very happy with the modifiactions and results. My S/C'd 7 is a daily driver..

Either way have fun!

:) I wasn't getting on you about maintenance man ... just saying, if you are going to make your engine produce more power, would be good to ensure nothing was leaking up front. It's awesome that you bought that warrenty though, seems like it's going to pay for itself! :alright

Yeah I'm with ya man. The maintenance work will always come first. I'm hoping after these things get fixed to look into getting another daily driver and do some of the performance mods to the 740i. I'm thinking a 36 mo. lease on a new Jeep (good for the winters here). That way I can have the work done to the 740i and not have to worry about it as much.
Lyon

Also think of what your girl will say when you tell her that the 7 now has over 400hp. As the hammer is dropped the excietment will grow!!.. Lol

well said haha

ya how much do dinan chips go for? and what exactly is S/C? im not familiar or i may be and it's just an abbreviation lol[/quote]

S/C is SuperCharger. I was also trying to find out how much $$$ the Dinan chip goes for, anyone know off hand? It sounds like if I install the chip I will need the cold air intake and such as well to get any really power out of it, is that correct? How much hp gain is to be had from the Dinan chip/ intake package, anyone know?
ThanX
Lyon

My 745i even at 325 hp I feel it needs more power at times.

there is no lag on the S/C; the S/C kicks in around 2800 RPM to 7000(limiter increased). You have not reduced your compression ratio so no performance reduction or "lag". Your normal engine + ; torque is 400+ with S/C

S/C kit come with CAI, new injectors, the failing OSV is replaced, etc.

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

Sounds like you just need to get a lower diff to increase your 0-60.
sport models were 3:15, you can go higher, for more 0-60 reduction, with cost of higher RPm's, etc.

Your Dinan engine software matches the direct Dinan mods= CAI, intake, etc. Each addition is $$ ...

The transmission software might be worth it...

Up to you but i would investigate what is the best "bang" for the buck and what you want out of the 7. I did this and I am very happy with the modifiactions and results. My S/C'd 7 is a daily driver..

Either way have fun!

Blackwolf I surely see your point as to the S/C kit, and thanx for the "lag" info, I'm clueless novice. It would be hella fun to have and certainly an option. $3k is kinda the high end of what I was looking to spend right away. the $5k for the S/C seems like a bit to much cash for me to throw at the car right now. I was thinking that $3k would get me quite a bit more than the 18hp I was looking for. I know it's very pricey to upgrade this car, so that is why I set my mark so low. I also know the 18hp will barely be felt on the road, that why I'm looking for the cheapest route to get there. If the $3k can bring me closer to 50-60 hp and some extra torque I'd be willing to lay my money down on that set up. I'm not about to shell out $3k on an 18hp gain. If there is no moderate gain out there for a moderate amount off $$$$ I'll stick with my 282hp until I can throw the S/C on there and have some real fun. I'm just looking to get that extra push off the line without dropping to much dough on it. How is the is the S/C on gas mileage?

So, anyone know of a moderate mod I can make with moderate $$$ to get me to the 300hp mark. If not, what performance mods can I expect to get with my $3k budget?
I really appreciate the input, very helpful!!!
Lyon

TBH, if you have 3K, buy a 100CC single gear or 125cc shifter kart. A racing one, not one that some dude welded together in his garage. Then do your racing on the track, with other race drivers rather than Mustang organ donors :D

39Hp and WAAAAAAAY faster than a GT, or in fact most things on the road :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-mac-minerelli-shifter-kart_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ98064QQihZ002QQite mZ120152828614QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-1751-2978-71/1?AID=5463217&PID=2518995&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2F95-mac-minerelli-shifter-kart_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ98064QQihZ002QQite mZ120152828614QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

or you could be very naughty and do this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=PYREdEJLWyA&mode=related&search=

You must of raced a V6, our cars way quite a bit to take a 260 hp v8 in a Mustang.:nono

TBH, if you have 3K, buy a 100CC single gear or 125cc shifter kart. A racing one, not one that some dude welded together in his garage. Then do your racing on the track, with other race drivers rather than Mustang organ donors :D

39Hp and WAAAAAAAY faster than a GT, or in fact most things on the road :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-mac-minerelli-shifter-kart_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ98064QQihZ002QQite mZ120152828614QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-1751-2978-71/1?AID=5463217&PID=2518995&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2F95-mac-minerelli-shifter-kart_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ98064QQihZ002QQite mZ120152828614QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

or you could be very naughty and do this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=PYREdEJLWyA&mode=related&search=

I'm not at all a racer, nor do I want a go kart. I usaully do the speed limit around town and I don't mess around on the road. There are some brief instances that I wan't to get up to speed really quick in my 740i. It gets me there pretty quick but not what what I would expect from a 4.4L V8. I also own a 1966 big block V8 Corvette, so I've been kinda spoiled with that V8 (it really moves).
ThanX for the input.
Lyon

Yeah my other vehicle is a F150 with a Roush intercooled supercharger on it 445 Hp baby!!! Make my MW feel so slow when I drive it.

Blackwolf I surely see your point as to the S/C kit, and thanx for the "lag" info, I'm clueless novice. It would be hella fun to have and certainly an option. $3k is kinda the high end of what I was looking to spend right away. the $5k for the S/C seems like a bit to much cash for me to throw at the car right now. I was thinking that $3k would get me quite a bit more than the 18hp I was looking for. I know it's very pricey to upgrade this car, so that is why I set my mark so low. I also know the 18hp will barely be felt on the road, that why I'm looking for the cheapest route to get there. If the $3k can bring me closer to 50-60 hp and some extra torque I'd be willing to lay my money down on that set up. I'm not about to shell out $3k on an 18hp gain. If there is no moderate gain out there for a moderate amount off $$$$ I'll stick with my 282hp until I can throw the S/C on there and have some real fun. I'm just looking to get that extra push off the line without dropping to much dough on it. How is the is the S/C on gas mileage?

So, anyone know of a moderate mod I can make with moderate $$$ to get me to the 300hp mark. If not, what performance mods can I expect to get with my $3k budget?
I really appreciate the input, very helpful!!!
Lyon

As was suggested to me in another thread: NITROUS

IM saving everything for a supercharger. I want no exhaust mods..I like the quiet. I might go with DINAN suspension and a strut brace....$7500 dollars and Ive got more car than I need fo my DD and only .001 percent of the punks on the road will een touch it

Junkie: I'm also thinking that the S/C is gonna be the best bang for the buck. I too like the car to be a sleeper. No loud exhaust, I get plenty of that from my Vettes. I'm not a racer so nitrous would be a little ridiculous for me to run. I'm not planning to take any foolish measures on the road. It's just that the car doesn't seem to have the power it should for such a heavy ride. Theres no problem with the car as far as performace, says the dealer, so it's really just a big heavy car with 282hp. I know that's not all to bad of a rating, and how much do I really need from a family lux sedan, right? Well I just want the car to have the off the line power it needs to pull ahead of the next guy at a stoplight with ease. I run the car in "sport" mode with ASC off and it is a bit quicker, but still not what I'm looking for. I think that if I had bought a "Sport" package model I would be satisfied. I don't need anything crazy for street racing, just a bit more hp/torque to get me rolling quicker. I'm sure the S/C unit would do the trick, it's is a little out of my budget right now, plus I'd have to hire some one to put it on as I'm clueless, so that would be another big chunk of dough. I was thinking that $3k budget could me a moderate set up installed, that would give me another 50-60hp. I looks like their are not many options for a moderate power gain. I'm sure after doing all the Dinan mods I would hit that mark, but would probably surpass my $3k budget. I was thinking the was maybe a $500-$1,000 setup I could run that would give me the 18hp to bring the total to 300hp. I guess thats not tan option and it all or nothing. So I'll have to, like you, save more money and put the S/C unit on the car. I hope it's a reliable unit, as I've heard mostly nightmares of people who S/C on a daily drive. 15,000 miles and the thing takes a crap. Who know though I could work forever. I'll just have to drop the $6k wait and see,
Thanx
Lyon

CAI, injectors, and fan/clutch delete will give you 18+hp gain.
Just recently did mines and she's definately moving now.
I should dyno it to see actual stats.

Ok Lyon, this is my .02

After reading random posts and opinion about NOT waisting your money with $$Dinan$$, all you do is keep coming back to them. If youre looking for someone to convince you that $$Dinan$$ is the way to go, at this rate, the thread isn't going to go that way.

The clear and obvious best bang for the buck is the S/C, but if you don't wanna do that, then do the diff in either a 3.46 or 3.64 LSD from www.diffsonline.com, and ask for Andy and tell him James sent ya. If you need proof of their durability, just goto www.dtmpower.net and look at some of Dado's videos. Your car came stock with a 2.82 open, sports came with a mildly higher 3.15, but the way I see it is if your gonna spend money to "upgrade" don't do baby steps which will only bring you to basically a stock sport model. Do a search on the various 7 series forums for LSD's and different ratios. Better yet, call Andy and ask him and Dan how much they LOVE having the 3.64's in thier cars.

Intake - www.cosmosracing.com
Exhaust - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=682844 - best sound you'll get outta your 7 without spending a rdiculous amount of money, trust me
Software - You don't have a chip, so you have to download software. http://www.powerchipgroup.com/index.asp

About the ONLY thing I would even consider using that $$Dinan$$ makes is transmission software since they're the only ones, otherwise screw $$Dinan$$ and their outrageous prices. BMW dealerships are dumping them for a reason, read between the lines.

X 1000!!! listen to this guy.


Ok Lyon, this is my .02

After reading random posts and opinion about NOT waisting your money with $$Dinan$$, all you do is keep coming back to them. If youre looking for someone to convince you that $$Dinan$$ is the way to go, at this rate, the thread isn't going to go that way.

The clear and obvious best bang for the buck is the S/C, but if you don't wanna do that, then do the diff in either a 3.46 or 3.64 LSD from www.diffsonline.com (http://www.diffsonline.com), and ask for Andy and tell him James sent ya. If you need proof of ther durability, just goto www.dtm power.net (http://www.dtm power.net) and look at some of Dado's videos. Your car came stock with a 2.82 open, sports came with a mildly higher 3.15, but the way I see it is if your gonna spend money to "upgrade" don't do baby steps which will only bring you to basically a stock sport model. Do a search on the various 7 series forums for LSD's and different ratios. Better yet, call Andy and ask him and Dan how much they LOVE having the 3.64's in thier cars.

Intake - www.cosmosracing.com (http://www.cosmosracing.com)
Exhaust - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=682844 - best sound you'll get outta your 7 without spending a rdiculous amount of money, trust me
Software - You don't have a chip, so you have to download software. http://www.powerchipgroup.com/index.asp

About the ONLY thing I would even consider using that $$Dinan$$ makes is transmission software since they're the only ones, otherwise screw $$Dinan$$ and their outrageous prices. BMW dealerships are dumping them for a reason, read between the lines.

Stop it, you're makin me :blush2

To clarify more on the diff idea....your car weighs around 4300lbs, so if you're gonna spend $1500-2000 for a diff, then another grand for the labor, spend it wisely AKA best bang for the buck. You can spend your 3k any way you want, but wouldn't you like to get the most out of it. Since you're not too mechanically inclined, keeping your motor stock might make you sleep better at night, becuase with just about any mod like intake and exhaust, you're gonna get other little things (problems maybe) that come with it. Intakes you take the chance of water ingestion (maybe), exhaust you can get droning (poor design), software means different timing, so more maintenance and a possibly hotter running car if you use cheap gas (also a maybe). At least a diff it's the same running motor, no additional mods to make it work harder, and you're diff will be built by a shop that makes them bulletproof. At that point the only thing that will cause higher maintenance is if you roast the tires while laughing your ass off w/ the new found acceleration :D, and a decrease in gas mileage of 1-2mpg, which is gonna happen when you change ratios. If it were me w/ 3k, and i didn't wanna S/C due to cost and worrying about longevity, i'd go the poor man's S/C all day long....different gearing baby!

Stop it, you're makin me :blush2

To clarify more on the diff idea....your car weighs around 4300lbs, so if you're gonna spend $1500-2000 for a diff, then another grand for the labor, spend it wisely AKA best bang for the buck. You can spend your 3k any way you want, but wouldn't you like to get the most out of it. Since you're not too mechanically inclined, keeping your motor stock might make you sleep better at night, becuase with just about any mod like intake and exhaust, you're gonna get other little things (problems maybe) that come with it. Intakes you take the chance of water ingestion (maybe), exhaust you can get droning (poor design), software means different timing, so more maintenance and a possibly hotter running car if you use cheap gas (also a maybe). At least a diff it's the same running motor, no additional mods to make it work harder, and you're diff will be built by a shop that makes them bulletproof. At that point the only thing that will cause higher maintenance is if you roast the tires while laughing your ass off w/ the new found acceleration :D, and a decrease in gas mileage of 1-2mpg, which is gonna happen when you change ratios. If it were me w/ 3k, and i didn't wanna S/C due to cost and worrying about longevity, i'd go the poor man's S/C all day long....different gearing baby!

Thanks James!! That sounds like the best route for me to take, to get the little extra kick I need. I'm trying to keep her as stock as possible so I don't run into big maintenace problems. I will contact those guys and see what they can do. Now I need to find a place that can install the hardware. is the diff swap a "plug and play" type install or do I need to have the trans and engine calibrated to work with the new gears? 1-2 mpg loss is not bad at all!!
Thanx again for the input, I appreciate it!!!
Lyon

It's a drop and go item, so nothing is needed w/ the engine, but you will need to find a professional installer who knows how to adjust the gaps inside the carrier. Be happy you have a 98 also, to some it is known as the "better" of the M62's since it's final revision before it went VANOS. VANOS has it pluses, especially mroe torque, but non-VANOS has larger a larger intake, MAF, TB, and intake plenum making it a great candidate for boost...once the diff gets slow ;) Remember, ask for Andy and tell him James sent ya. In the meantime, go watch some of Dado's videos on DTMPOWER.net or Andy's videos at www.euromelee.com, you'll be amazed what CRAZY gearing and a turbo can do....muahahahahaha!!

I havent seen software yet that I feel is worth the money. I very good CAI system and maybe good exhaust. Havent ever seen headers?

I very good CAI system and maybe good exhaust. Havent ever seen headers?

Can i get the English translation of that?

18 HP increase is a tease for these cars, i went down the dinan road with the cai,throttle, engine & tranny software etc. To get any real HP/Torque upgrade u need to do everything right up to and including the intake mani upgrade, and it upwards of $4000.00 but i found in the long run S/C is the way to go, huge amount of HP/Torque increase with better fuel economy at cruise. IMO money is better spent, if i was goin do it all over again i would of bypassed everything and gone FI from the start. I know that the Dinan kit is alot more than the VF, but i weighed the opinions/options and went with dinan, and i dont regret spending the extra $$ + IMO there are some added benefits when u go dinan. 500 hp with 460ft/lbs of torque - here i come.

Can i get the English translation of that?

I dont even know what I meant, and I wrote that :confused

LOL...nice 323. I was like, ehh? As for the headers, yeah Chi could get those installed also, but from what the M5 guys say it gives them somewhere around 30hp, and I can only imagine you'd definately want software done also due to the lowend power loss that I'm almost sure would happen with our lower HP'd cars weighing the same, if not more (740 users). Bimmerfixr has shown that the headers bolt-up without a problem. Chi, while this thread has gone from getting you an extra 18hp to something more along the lines of physical mods to make the car faster, we're still getting you the same goal you were looking for....to go faster right?

If you wanna be able to say you have 300hp for bragging right, then stick with intake, exhaust, and software like I recommended above. I've got a motor that was upgraded internally, and after even a CRAPPY dyno day w/ the problems I had, after calculating the loss through the tranny I still got around 315ish HP at the crank. All i know is that I've beaten my friends old 540 sport 6spd w/ software, intake, and exhaust. He clearly had an advantage on me.....more gears/better tranny, lighter vehicle, and more bolt on mods than I had at the time. I also beat a friends 740i sport, which had VANOS = more torque, and 3.15 gearing. But my motor also cost me 10k after it was all said and done. Hind sight is 20/20 as they say.

If you simply wanna go faster for less money, short of getting S/C'ed, get the gearing done and forget about the HP number. Look all over the internet, there are cars with more and less HP all over the road, yet some lower HP cars walk all over higher HP cars all day long. What that mostly comes down to is weight, and gearing. Changing the gearing ratios in our trannies are near to impossible since we're such a small market, so all the leaves us with is the diff, which now has become somewhat reasonable, but is definately within your 3k budget. Since you want your car to sound stock, with the 3k you have set aside you could easily do the diff, installation, and maybe have enough left over for software. You'd have the HP you want, and a quick car than those who spent 3k through $$Dinan$$ on simple intake and exhaust mods alone.....trust me, they have NO PROBLEM spending thousands of your dollars and getting not a lot of gain in comparison to what a VF supercharger or a Diffsonline diff can get for the same amount. In the end, it's your money though, so you decide.

Now shut up and get the diff ;)

Yes sir!

Damn, I got answers to questions I didn't even have to ask. U da man, M5 :buttrock

Fatkids have their moment too ;)

Headers= 30 HP? Or full exhaust?

Headers sound like an awesome deal, and if you supercharged, they would only compliment, not be replaced by, the supercharger

*snif* No headers available for the V12 (M73N). Custom ones would cost a fortune and it would take Houdini to fit them into the car anyway.

I think it was Dave Clement, but he extrude honed and polished his intake and gained a fair amount of horsepower. Rob Levinson I believe did the same. Try looking it up, or PM'ing them.

Headers= 30 HP? Or full exhaust?

Headers sound like an awesome deal, and if you supercharged, they would only compliment, not be replaced by, the supercharger

Headers only, but remember we'd get less benefit because we have smaller displacement. If you look on www.realoem.com you can see the V8 headers between the 540, 740, and M5 are super similar. I"m not sure if Bimmerfixr dynoed his car between mods, but he has them installed and should be able to give a better opinion of their effectiveness.

Rob Levinson extrude honed his, which costs about $1200 plus shipping. Dave, if memory serves, did not want to pay this much so he honed his himself using a homemade set of tools and an electric drill. Dave also had the benefit of having a spare intake manifold set to work with in case he ruined it. There is an interesting thread on this with lots of pictures.

Unfortunately, neither Rob nor Dave have before and after dyno runs to confirm what value, if any, the process has. It sounds like a nice idea in theory, but there are no quantitative results by which to judge either one. I'm not sure if Dave even installed his yet.

IMHO, if you're going to hone the intakes, you might as well go the Rob Levinson route and bore the throttle bodies also.

Ive never seen a 5 dyno run/5 dyno back to back. But I am sure thatwhile it does help, it is not an enormous gain. If there is nothing else to do...then it is a steal.

Ive never seen a 5 dyno run/5 dyno back to back

You're doing it again 323 :)

You guys are comedy. :lol

I too was/am looking at $3k packages for 20hp gains. Only becuase I've heard that with labor you need $10k for a S/C. No???

Rob Levinson extrude honed his, which costs about $1200 plus shipping.

Pics:

http://www.robertlevinson.com/seven/EXTRUDE_HONED/

Headers only, but remember we'd get less benefit because we have smaller displacement. If you look on www.realoem.com (http://www.realoem.com) you can see the V8 headers between the 540, 740, and M5 are super similar. I"m not sure if Bimmerfixr dynoed his car between mods, but he has them installed and should be able to give a better opinion of their effectiveness.

It took me almost a year to get the headers installed after the 4.6 swap. BMW M5 cats and SuperSprint M5 exhaust were installed at the same time as the headers. Unfortunately I still have not had the car on a dyno but I can definitely say that with 20,000 miles between the engine swap and the header/exhaust install there was a noticeable difference in low end power. There used to be a noticeable "lag" up to 3000 rpm but now its not there.
I'm really starting to get tired of replacing rear tires every 10K.:D Its a good thing I run Michelin Pilot Alpins on my M-Pars during the winter.:evil2

part number? source? I seriously want to do the headers. they are the foundation for every other mod, other than the turbo

part number? source? I seriously want to do the headers. they are the foundation for every other mod, other than the turbo

http://www.supersprint.com/homeuk.htm

or

http://www.bimmerworks.com

M5 headers fit just fine.:D:redspot

Wow! They actually have e38 V12 headers on their web site, though it does say "coming soon" :bluecryin I'm hoping to get years out of my stock exhaust still, but when it finally goes I may look into this Supersprint setup.

Hey Bimmerfixr, any idea what kind of gain I might expect to get from putting headers on my V12? Would I have to change the rest of the exhaust at the same time or risk back-pressure problems?

Hey Rob,

Did you see Dave's DIY honing thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724684? How do you think this would stack up to extrude honing?

Hey Rob,

Did you see Dave's DIY honing thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724684? How do you think this would stack up to extrude honing?

What Dav is doing primarily is "port matching" with some runner cleanup... and he's doing a fantastic job of it!

The advantage that the Extrude Hone process has is that it is effectively "self tuning" in terms of finding the resistance in the manifold. The EH process forces abrasive goo through the part, so any restrictive or pinch points automatically cause higher pressure, and therefore get more abrasion.

And of course, the difference in price... you're paying for that little bit of extra difference with EH. Whether that's worth it or not to you is a different question altogether.

- Rob

Wow! They actually have e38 V12 headers on their web site, though it does say "coming soon" :bluecryin I'm hoping to get years out of my stock exhaust still, but when it finally goes I may look into this Supersprint setup.

Hey Bimmerfixr, any idea what kind of gain I might expect to get from putting headers on my V12? Would I have to change the rest of the exhaust at the same time or risk back-pressure problems?

It looks like they will have the option to use the stock exhaust or a complete replacement. My opinion is why allow it to breathe better up front only to choke it farther down the line. It's only money:D. I would not want to speculate as to the power gain.

Wow! They actually have e38 V12 headers on their web site, though it does say "coming soon" :bluecryin I'm hoping to get years out of my stock exhaust still, but when it finally goes I may look into this Supersprint setup.

Hey Bimmerfixr, any idea what kind of gain I might expect to get from putting headers on my V12? Would I have to change the rest of the exhaust at the same time or risk back-pressure problems?

Still no E32 V12 headers though.:shifty

there is no lag on the S/C; the S/C kicks in around 2800 RPM to 7000(limiter increased). You have not reduced your compression ratio so no performance reduction or "lag". Your normal engine + ; torque is 400+ with S/C

S/C kit come with CAI, new injectors, the failing OSV is replaced, etc.

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

Sounds like you just need to get a lower diff to increase your 0-60.
sport models were 3:15, you can go higher, for more 0-60 reduction, with cost of higher RPm's, etc.

Your Dinan engine software matches the direct Dinan mods= CAI, intake, etc. Each addition is $$ ...

The transmission software might be worth it...

Up to you but i would investigate what is the best "bang" for the buck and what you want out of the 7. I did this and I am very happy with the modifiactions and results. My S/C'd 7 is a daily driver..

Either way have fun!

Thanks for this post Blackwolf. I'm coming over from the 350z world where S/C'ing or turbocharging were all the rage. For the record, I had a 150HP shot on mine and I dyno'ed at 397hp / 415trq on a dynojet on spray. But that's history.

The main problem was that the VQ35 engine couldn't handle the increased torque and HP without significant forging of engine internals.

How does the M62 hold up considering the HP and torque gains associated with S/C'ing? Are the internals strong enough that one can simply bolt on an S/C with no worries?

Also, does VF's S/C come with larger injectors? What are your thoughts on the stock exhaust's limitations? In other words, is the stock exhaust too restrictive for the additional HP that is realized with an S/C? We all know the formula of more HP = more air + more fuel + larger exhaust flow.

Sorry for the number of questions, but I'm seriously contemplating a S/C.

Thanks,

Rob

Also, should I consider some sort of tuning or flash?

Bobby Ritz....if you follow the VF link you will see what the VF kit includes. As for the motor being able to handle it, it really about maintenance and good compression/leakdown numbers to have a good starting point. The only real problem w/ these blocks is they're all aluminum. Early tests when $$Dinan$$ and some other tuner (forgot who) got blow-by from the block scoring after time. Bimmerhead is a great resource as he was one of the first to get his car S/C'd by $$Dinan$$ and learned many of the inherent problems associated to our motors. Since then lower psi and better tuning has made VF the better choice, not to mention their price tag being 1/3 lower for the exact same equipment.

The only real problem w/ these blocks is they're all aluminum.

Wow.. I had thought only the M73 was aluminum. :eek:

Hence the problem w/ the earlier M60 motors and the sulfer that ate them alive. M60-S62 is pretty much the same block, just different bores, etc. The block can handle the boost as long as it's tuned well and maintenance is kept up. When I heard that BavEngine sleeved that blocks, that's all it took for me to use them for my rebuild....bring on the boost kids ;)

Chi, so what have you decided to do anyways?

James, I'm thinking the diff is right where I need to go. Not a huge mod, not a huge cost, reliable, serviceable, fuel efficent, low profile, and will make the car jump of the line quicker. I still have yet to contact your guy at diffsonline but I surely will. I'm also trying to find out if I can find a local shop qualified to do the swap with out F-ing things up. Do you have any notion as to if this will void my warranty on the car? I'm guessing that would be a problem If they were in there and found outthat this swap was made. If it's going to void my $3,000 warranty I'm going to have to be patient till it runs out...IN A YEAR AND A HALF!!!!!!!! LMAO!!!!!
Thanks for keeping this thread alive. Everytime someone asks a question or posts input it is very helpful to me as well as to the others who are looking get more power from their 7.
Lyon

well if you happen to shear some pins in your diff, you may need an under warranty replacement :)

Anything that your warranty covers will probably not even come close to being near the diff anyways as most are electrical problems at the front of the motor...sensors, gaskets, cats, radiator, waterpump, etc. and then it depends on how good your warranty is when those things go. Short of a fluid change every 50k or so, your diff isn't pretty much a low maintenance item......unless you drive like I do in my avatar :shifty

well if you happen to shear some pins in your diff, you may need an under warranty replacement :)

Ah, I see. :devillook
Lyon

James, I'm thinking the diff is right where I need to go. Not a huge mod, not a huge cost, reliable, serviceable, fuel efficent, low profile, and will make the car jump of the line quicker. I still have yet to contact your guy at diffsonline but I surely will. I'm also trying to find out if I can find a local shop qualified to do the swap with out F-ing things up. Do you have any notion as to if this will void my warranty on the car? I'm guessing that would be a problem If they were in there and found outthat this swap was made. If it's going to void my $3,000 warranty I'm going to have to be patient till it runs out...IN A YEAR AND A HALF!!!!!!!! LMAO!!!!!
Thanks for keeping this thread alive. Everytime someone asks a question or posts input it is very helpful to me as well as to the others who are looking get more power from their 7.
Lyon

Check this one out also: www.koalamotorsport.com (http://www.koalamotorsport.com)

Brett Anderson, frequent appearances in Roundel magazine.

It looks like they will have the option to use the stock exhaust or a complete replacement. My opinion is why allow it to breathe better up front only to choke it farther down the line. It's only money:D. I would not want to speculate as to the power gain.


there are some bimmers out there where an entire manifold back exhaust yielded a maximium of 7 horsepower.

BMW builds some damn good exhausts. Many of them even came with fairly decent stainless steel headers, such as the e34 530.

I can see how simply a fresh set of cats and headers would help.
As exhaust cools downstream, it "shrinks, although its density increases. This allows many manufacturers to get away with actually decreasing diameter as they go back form the cat and losing major horsepower. Although I dont see BMW do this. If you look online for ideal exhaust tubing diameter per engine displacement, valve area on the exhaust side, and RPM, you will find that BMW approaches is at or actually exceeds this calculation. I have yet to see a stock versus aftermarket dyno run where tremendous gains are made,in the domestic world we are quite used to this but its a bit more frustrating with BMW

hell...

aftermarket exhaust vs stock dyno runs should be a moderated and sticky uber-thread on BFC...

now where are those headers coming from again for the m62?

Check this one out also: www.koalamotorsport.com (http://www.koalamotorsport.com)

Brett Anderson, frequent appearances in Roundel magazine.

Just checked out the site; good stuff.

Its probably my extreme retardedness, but I dont see any headers for an e38 on either website :shifty:

I twist and turn at night knowing my 4.4 V8 only makes 282hp. Does anyone else? I mean in comparison to todays V8 engines this m62 is kinda sad. There are a few naturally aspired V6's out there pushing close to, if not over this. Especially with this thing being so big and heavy the 282hp is really under powering the car in my opinion. Even in 2001 when the e38 ended it's run the engine was still at 282hp. Okay so how do we hit 300hp with our m62 or m62tu engine? I know hp gain is not easily attained without $$$$, but I'm looking for 18 horses here. What can I do to get there with the least amount of cash. Is the cold air intake the way to go? Or, is the Dinan chip the best bang for the $$$. K&N air filter? S/C? What's the quickest, and cheapest way to get an 18hp gain? I do find it disturbing that the Mustang GT sitting next to me at the stop light has more horses coming from a stock 4.0L Ford engine than I do in a large, heavy, BMW 740i sedan. I'm not asking for too much am' I? Anyone have answers? lets hear them!!!!!!
Thanx
Lyon

Who cares. The day any other car with that weight and that engine can stand up to ours thats when you can start worrying about it. Also no offense to you or anybody else...but i want more HP is such an American thing to say...in a bad way. For an 8cyl engine to be able to move a 2ton car the way it does right now is really impressive. Also keep in mind that those engines got started in 1996, you're trying to compare an engine from that year with the new engines that are out right now...its like comparing bananas and apples.

Now where are those headers coming from again for the m62?

Are you trying to be a jackass or does it just come naturally?
It's not a secret. I'm running SuperSprint M5 headers on my 7. This has been discussed on this forum at length.

Its probably my extreme retardedness, but I dont see any headers for an e38 on either website :shifty:

And you probably never will. Read above. Just because something isn't in writing, doesn't mean it can't be done. Koala Motorsport doesn't advertise exhaust, SuperSprint does.
I can't believe I got so much crap about my former avatars, yet you can continue to display your disturbing image.

Just checked out the site; good stuff.

His site used to have more information on it but I think he got tired of BS like the above shite. Give him a call if you have questions, very easy to talk to, if you can listen and not run your mouth.:evil2

Are you trying to be a jackass or does it just come naturally?
It's not a secret. I'm running SuperSprint M5 headers on my 7. This has been discussed on this forum at length.



And you probably never will. Read above. Just because something isn't in writing, doesn't mean it can't be done. Koala Motorsport doesn't advertise exhaust, SuperSprint does.
I can't believe I got so much crap about my former avatars, yet you can continue to display your disturbing image.



His site used to have more information on it but I think he got tired of BS like the above shite. Give him a call if you have questions, very easy to talk to, if you can listen and not run your mouth.:evil2


I think you need to review the forum rules of posting.
Anyway..I havent frequented the 7 series forum especially the m62 based threads, because I never owned a 740 till this summer. I wasnt calling BS...I was asking what and where. A civil reply of "Look under M5 headers" was all that was needed. Instead, you had to reply like a 16 year old. "Public Forum" sound familiar to you?

As for my avatar, a P-shop of a goat (GTO) with braces (comical) against a flaming (Hot rods of flame since the 50's) background should not be considered perverted or disturbing on a CAR forum. However, if it bothers you at some subconsious level that badly, I'll change it. Or you can ignore my posts. I gaurantee thats an option I'l have ticked for you from now on. I deal with enough teenage attitudes every day. I dont need them on my recreational time.

Can we get back to the original thread guys. After reading both posts, I think both we're trying to joke around a little using smilies and the message got lost. Happy posting kids ;)

Im always joking, and I always poke fun at my own incapabilites such as typing and late night literacy. Looking back, I found where he posted. Thats why I get annoyed when people try to take it further.

OK silly boys, time to :kiss and make-up. Back to the thread bitches!;)

Anway...researched the other threads...

Apparently about 3000 will put headers on one of these...about 1000 more than I was estimating. If I was doing headers, Id want everything: gaskets, nuts, bolts, hangers, O2 sensors...and perhaps this center exhaust from the M5. As long as those tubes are though...I think Id just fab up a connection or have one fabbed at HP. I dont know how restrictive the center resonators are ...or the mufflers...only way to tell would be to do one section at a time..

The resonator is just a straight-thru muffler with an H-pipe near the end, so it's not flow restrictive at all. The mufflers, that's a whole nother story, but that's where the Magnaflow 14816's come in ;) Time to get on board my friend......muahahahahaha

Thanks for this post Blackwolf. I'm coming over from the 350z world where S/C'ing or turbocharging were all the rage. For the record, I had a 150HP shot on mine and I dyno'ed at 397hp / 415trq on a dynojet on spray. But that's history.

The main problem was that the VQ35 engine couldn't handle the increased torque and HP without significant forging of engine internals.

How does the M62 hold up considering the HP and torque gains associated with S/C'ing? Are the internals strong enough that one can simply bolt on an S/C with no worries?

Also, does VF's S/C come with larger injectors? What are your thoughts on the stock exhaust's limitations? In other words, is the stock exhaust too restrictive for the additional HP that is realized with an S/C? We all know the formula of more HP = more air + more fuel + larger exhaust flow.

Sorry for the number of questions, but I'm seriously contemplating a S/C.

Thanks,

Rob

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

Has alot the answers on it. The numbers are with a stock exhaust. I am sure you can get more HP thru a header and exhaust, this will make it a little leaner but the VF tune is a little rich for safety. You should be fine if you wanted to go that way.

The engine does fine no problems. Remember we share the same engine as the 540's and the V8 is strong. I would recommend cooling upgrades. Not really needed but for "peace of mind".

sorry for the delay..

You guys are comedy. :lol

I too was/am looking at $3k packages for 20hp gains. Only becuase I've heard that with labor you need $10k for a S/C. No???

Maybe for Dinan kit because they replace alot more parts. I was quoted $600 by a VF installer for my car. I did it myself without too much problems. I had to customize the ABS bracket, but simple bolt on from there. VF gives you good installation instructions..

Check this one out also: www.koalamotorsport.com (http://www.koalamotorsport.com)

Brett Anderson, frequent appearances in Roundel magazine.

Brett is the man, he did my 6spd. I believe that he can build your diff at his shop (all internals) and just send you the rear pumpkin or sealed dif to a shop or your house. It is a simple bolt on from there. You can do it like I did or any descent mechanic can... Please check to make sure..:D

Time to get on board my friend......muahahahahaha


Ironically this was to be my grocery getter. I never optioned it as a serious performance machine..until I owned it

Brett is the man, he did my 6spd. I believe that he can build your diff at his shop (all internals) and just send you the rear pumpkin or sealed dif to a shop or your house. It is a simple bolt on from there. You can do it like I did or any descent mechanic can... Please check to make sure..:D

You got it. He's easy to talk to, know's what he's talking about. He kept me informed of his progress throught the transaction. Diff's been in my car almost 4 years, 80000 miles. Damn, has it really been that long?:cool

I think you need to review the forum rules of posting.
Anyway..I havent frequented the 7 series forum especially the m62 based threads, because I never owned a 740 till this summer. I wasnt calling BS...I was asking what and where. A civil reply of "Look under M5 headers" was all that was needed. Instead, you had to reply like a 16 year old. "Public Forum" sound familiar to you?

As for my avatar, a P-shop of a goat (GTO) with braces (comical) against a flaming (Hot rods of flame since the 50's) background should not be considered perverted or disturbing on a CAR forum. However, if it bothers you at some subconsious level that badly, I'll change it. Or you can ignore my posts. I gaurantee thats an option I'l have ticked for you from now on. I deal with enough teenage attitudes every day. I dont need them on my recreational time.

Sorry about the tude, Dude. I need to remember not to respond to a "seemingly" antagonistic post when I'm tired, and have a couple of beers under my belt.

You peppered me with questions yesterday regarding headers, speakers, websites, what have you. Usually i ignore them until the next day so I don't react that way. Anyway we could do this, :bash, or this,:drink1, I prefer the second one.:D

BTW. Your goat still skeeves me out. My problem, not yours.:cool

For the record, I hate the goat too. I have skipped right over some posts just not to have to look at it.

And BTW, thanks Bimmerfixr for changing your avatar to something that doesn't give me nightmares. Much appreciated.

LMAO....are you guys really serious?! It's a fuckin avatar, who gives a shit? I've seen one where it shows a girl pushing her tits together in a t-shirt, then pulls it up and shows them....woo fuckin hoo. Listen to Tom Leykis, it's called the pusification of men. Should I change my avatar because someone got scared of some road rage incident and a car slid into them, therefore making them scarred for life. I don't even remember what you had for an avatar Bimmerfixr, but I know your a great guy from the few times we talked, so I could give a shit about a 1"x1" picture. It's your opinions and input that matter to me more than anything. Jesus people, move on and stick to the threads.....cry on PM's ok.

LMAO....are you guys really serious?! It's a fuckin avatar, who gives a shit? I've seen one where it shows a girl pushing her tits together in a t-shirt, then pulls it up and shows them....woo fuckin hoo. Listen to Tom Leykis, it's called the pusification of men. Should I change my avatar because someone got scared of some roadrage and a car slid into them, there making them scarred for life. I don't even remember what you had for a avatar Bimmerfixr, but I know your a great guy from the few times we talked, so I could give a shit about a 1"x1" picture. It's your opinions and input that matter to me more than anything. Jesus people, move on and stick to the threads.....cry on PM's ok.

LOL

Sorry about the tude, Dude. I need to remember not to respond to a "seemingly" antagonistic post when I'm tired, and have a couple of beers under my belt.

You peppered me with questions yesterday regarding headers, speakers, websites, what have you. Usually i ignore them until the next day so I don't react that way. Anyway we could do this, :bash, or this,:drink1, I prefer the second one.:D

BTW. Your goat still skeeves me out. My problem, not yours.:cool


Sorry man, questions are ..well..a function of this place.
Well, if no one will call OT...Ill post up some alternatives..in my own thread, this is the only forum I frequent anymore..ragnardang,,, made it..I always thought it was funny.
The worst avatar ever was the one with the lotus blossom and the nipple pchopped together

For the record, I hate the goat too. I have skipped right over some posts just not to have to look at it.

And BTW, thanks Bimmerfixr for changing your avatar to something that doesn't give me nightmares. Much appreciated.



First Ive heard of this in about two years. When it first came out, everyone, inlcuding the old-schoolers here, thought it was hilarious.

As far as nightmares, the lotus blossom was bad..but seriously. When I was fifteen I saw my friend get cut in half with a 12 gauge. I watched the life drain from his face when he turned around. I have nightmares to this day. Can an avatar seriously give you nightmares, or was this more smilee-free hyperbole?;)

I, don't really care about the avatars. I think some of them show a particularly twisted perception. I like twisted.:evil2

The differential is definately a solid increase in performance. I have done a number of 3.15 ratio, 3.38 and 3.62 for the e38s. It really comes down ratio wise to what you want in t, 3.46erms of performance vs fuel economy.

Most people opt for the 3.38, 3.46 or 3.62 if it's in the mod budget, or the 3.15 if the price is more appealing.

LS carrier wise there are a few good choices, most either opt for the Quaife LS carrier because they have read so much good stuff on it and they offer a lifetime warranty on the carrier, and others go with a simple 2 clutch carrier with 40% lock. The latter being a Salisbury unit, typical design of what BMW uses in most of their cars, and will operate flawlessly.

Those of you with 95s can get out of it a bit cheaper too

E38 videos on your site or ban!

The differential is definately a solid increase in performance. I have done a number of 3.15 ratio, 3.38 and 3.62 for the e38s. It really comes down ratio wise to what you want in t, 3.46erms of performance vs fuel economy.

Most people opt for the 3.38, 3.46 or 3.62 if it's in the mod budget, or the 3.15 if the price is more appealing.

LS carrier wise there are a few good choices, most either opt for the Quaife LS carrier because they have read so much good stuff on it and they offer a lifetime warranty on the carrier, and others go with a simple 2 clutch carrier with 40% lock. The latter being a Salisbury unit, typical design of what BMW uses in most of their cars, and will operate flawlessly.

Those of you with 95s can get out of it a bit cheaper too

Chi Lyon,

JMO, if you do decide to go with a new diff, I would decide if you are going to go with a S/C in the future. A 3.46 or above is fine for N/A but might be a little much for a S/C. :)

x2, a 3.62 is awesome w/o the S/C, but gear changes will come quickly after getting FI'd.

E38 videos on your site or ban!

HAHAHA sure! I will put some up soon. Snow tires season is approaching

How to get to 300hp?

Get an E65.

.....and get a gay looking "flame-er front" Bangle design to boot. How about we keep this to serious contribution please. That suggestion ranks right up there with getting the old school e38 750 V12, cap and rotor and all.....next.

.....and get a gay looking "flame-er front" Bangle design to boot. How about we keep this to serious contribution please. That suggestion ranks right up there with getting the old school e38 750 V12, cap and rotor and all.....next.


:lol

http://www.vf-engineering.com/

Has alot the answers on it. The numbers are with a stock exhaust. I am sure you can get more HP thru a header and exhaust, this will make it a little leaner but the VF tune is a little rich for safety. You should be fine if you wanted to go that way.

The engine does fine no problems. Remember we share the same engine as the 540's and the V8 is strong. I would recommend cooling upgrades. Not really needed but for "peace of mind".

sorry for the delay..

Thanks BW. I'll spend some time reviewing VF's site and come back with any questions.

They list the S/C at $6,000. Is this the cheapest price?

Thanks,

Rob

FWIW, Brett Anderson at KMS mentioned to me that he's got a brand-new supercharger kit (forgot if it was ESS or VF) for sale. Bought it for a customer who backed out.

He's looking to sell it at a good price. I suggest you give him a call, 440-564-7574.

- Rob

Maybe for Dinan kit because they replace alot more parts. I was quoted $600 by a VF installer for my car. I did it myself without too much problems. I had to customize the ABS bracket, but simple bolt on from there. VF gives you good installation instructions..

Not to beat a dead horse...just to confirm...you installed a VF supercharger yourself and an installer would have done it for 600.00?

I'd install it myself also, it'd be fun to do, get your hands dirty, and fix some of the other things they recommend before hand while you're in there. I pride myself in being able to fix my own car so if anything happens while driving in the middle of BFE that I can try and remedy the VFE myself ;)

Seriously though, i've removed and reinstalled my turbo on my old 91 MR2, clutch and trans in the M5, the s/c on my 01 V6 Tacoma, so i'm not a tech but I'm not scared under the hood either.

I'd install it myself also, it'd be fun to do, get your hands dirty, and fix some of the other things they recommend before hand while you're in there. I pride myself in being able to fix my own car so if anything happens while driving in the middle of BFE that I can try and remedy the VFE myself ;)

Seriously though, i've removed and reinstalled my turbo on my old 91 MR2, clutch and trans in the M5, the s/c on my 01 V6 Tacoma, so i'm not a tech but I'm not scared under the hood either.

I agree with this. Did bavengine do the performance swap on yours or did you have someone else do it? They're here in my backyard so I'm curious about them.

To me, the SC looks like a pretty straightforward job. I thought I read that it came with brackets. How hard are the injectors to replace? I'm thinking of doing mine in Feb. Of course I'm going to try to beat up VF for a "group buy" price, as I wouldn't have even purchased the car if not for the group! ;)

Swapping a motor is over my head, not to mention the tools needed. Doing the tranny was hard enough on drive-up ramps on the front, jacking up the back and placing it jackstands, then using the floorjack to support the tranny while I wiggled it away from the block.

How to get to 300hp?

Get an E65.

Yeah thanx joe, I would like an e65. You can surely ship yours to me, I'll even pay for the transport!!! I may sell it and buy another e38 though. I'd feel kinda bad though cause what will you drive?
Lyon

:lol imagine how stupid fast and reliable you could make an e38 for the price of an e65. I love knowing that I own a 65k stickered vehicle for 18k, put 10k into the motor, 6k into the s/c, maybe 1k into the cooling system, 3k for the diff, and I could run w/ M5's and B7's for 1/3 the price when it's all said and done. I could get really crazy and spend another 5k for a 6spd tranny swap making my car even more unique....yummy. To this day i've always loved the e38 body.....low, wide, and long. E65's a little to rounded for my taste.

I enjoy making the power and enjoying the steps of the upgrade, but i've also bought factory made power also. To each their own.

:lol imagine how stupid fast and reliable you could make an e38 for the price of an e65.

Considering how cheap E38s have gotten, you'd spend $65K in tuning on a $10K car.

And yes, it would be faster.

I think I've "doubled the value" of a few cars and at least one bike that way. I need serious help. :lol

- Rob

1) Get a higher ratio Diff
2) Get bigger brakes
3) Get a performance free flow exhaust with M5 headers and M5 CATs
4) Get a performance suspension
5) Get Transmission Software

Then:

6) Get a Supercharger kit....

And then

7) Have Fun !!!!


My 2 cents... :)

1) Get a higher ratio Diff
2) Get bigger brakes
3) Get a performance free flow exhaust with M5 headers and M5 CATs
4) Get a performance suspension
5) Get Transmission Software

Then:

6) Get a Supercharger kit....

And then

7) Have Fun !!!!


My 2 cents... :)

Good advice, but the order may be wrong. Do the SC and exhaust first, if you can afford it.

Good advice, but the order may be wrong. Do the SC and exhaust first, if you can afford it.

Power should be added LAST. These cars have "sufficient" braking and suspension only for OE hp levels... adding more power is silly without the control hardware already in place.

A car with good suspension and brakes is faster than a car with inferior suspension and brakes even if it has more motor. That is, assuming we're talking a "fast" measurement that does not include one thousand three hundred and twenty feet in it's measurement. I prefer the measurements that have curves.

- Rob

Right now I have a stock car with only springs and wheels/tires.

What are some suspension mods that will not ruin my ride quality. If there are none that's cool. What would my next step be for suspension? I was thinking of bolting up a new sway bar to see what improvements there are.

Power should be added LAST. These cars have "sufficient" braking and suspension only for OE hp levels... adding more power is silly without the control hardware already in place.

A car with good suspension and brakes is faster than a car with inferior suspension and brakes even if it has more motor. That is, assuming we're talking a "fast" measurement that does not include one thousand three hundred and twenty feet in it's measurement. I prefer the measurements that have curves.

- Rob

Couldn't agree more... after multiple trips to a road course track with this car - extra power is not really needed except on the straight. Even then larger more efficient brakes are an absolute must have. Remember these cars weigh just over 4800lbs empty - I know - I weighed mine at the track. BMW designs an excellent car, the difference between my 4 tire weights was on average only 15lbs corner to corner and front to back - talk about a well balanced 4,850lb car !

Cody, you don't know your car very well. First off, the headers between the 540, 740, and M5 are the same pieces, www.realoem.com shows that and it's been discussed here many times before. Everything after the headers between the 3 cars is probably very similar w/ the exception of diameters between how the cars are configured ie single vs. dual exhaust. Look at pics of the bottom side of an e38 and m5, Some have even bolted M5 systems straight onto their 7's w/ minor adjustment. Supersprint makes headers that they claim only work on the M5, but guys like Bimmerfixr has shown that they easily bolt up. Second, I don't what you're carrying around in your car, but my 98 iL weighed 4230 w/ me in it and 1/2 a tank of gas.

I have no racing experience. I bet I could mud bog my 7 better than yours though :nono:eyecrazy

My background is in old school 4x's.

Anyway. I would assume a car that handles and brakes better could hit a turn much later and harder with the right suspension and brakers better than a faster car without those mods.

This is how it is faster correct?

Right now I have a stock car with only springs and wheels/tires.

What are some suspension mods that will not ruin my ride quality. If there are none that's cool. What would my next step be for suspension? I was thinking of bolting up a new sway bar to see what improvements there are.

This information can easily be found by doing a search. We're getting off the OP's topic.

Anyway. I would assume a car that handles and brakes better could hit a turn much later and harder with the right suspension and brakers better than a faster car without those mods.

This is how it is faster correct?

If you meant:

"I would assume a car that handles and brakes better could hit a turn much later and harder with the right suspension and brakers better than a more powerful car without those mods."

Then yes. This is why a Miata will whomp a V8 Camaro around an auto-x course.

The real world has turns and braking zones. Nobody drives a 1/4 mile at a time. :lol

- Rob

Power should be added LAST. These cars have "sufficient" braking and suspension only for OE hp levels... adding more power is silly without the control hardware already in place.

A car with good suspension and brakes is faster than a car with inferior suspension and brakes even if it has more motor. That is, assuming we're talking a "fast" measurement that does not include one thousand three hundred and twenty feet in it's measurement. I prefer the measurements that have curves.

- Rob

Rob, wait a minute here. I want to get your Wilwood brakes but in my BBK thread, I think you stated that bigger brakes won't make the car stop better, good tires are necessary for stopping distance. I am not disagreeing here, just looking for clarification. I truly believe that good tires are the number 1 best thing you can have to help avoid bad situations, I run Pilot Sports and am reluctant to try anything else. :confused

Rob, wait a minute here. I want to get your Wilwood brakes but in my BBK thread, I think you stated that bigger brakes won't make the car stop better, good tires are necessary for stopping distance. I am not disagreeing here, just looking for clarification. I truly believe that good tires are the number 1 best thing you can have to help avoid bad situations, I run Pilot Sports and am reluctant to try anything else. :confused


On the track, BBKs make a big difference because of the frequent, hard braking. A BBK will heat up slower and cool off faster, thus having much less fade in repeated heavy braking. Just a one-time stop from moderate speed won't be much different between OEM and BBK. If you can lock your wheels, your tires are the limitation, not the brakes.

so just to be clear, would cross drilled rotors such as the brembos that are available as an oem replacement be enough of a change to work with a supercharged car?

so just to be clear, would cross drilled rotors such as the brembos that are available as an oem replacement be enough of a change to work with a supercharged car?

Reasons to upgrade your brakes from OEM:

1. You go to the track.

2. You need to make infrequent, but very hard stops from over 100mph.

3. You need get up to 70 and brake a couple times a minute.

Rob, wait a minute here. I want to get your Wilwood brakes but in my BBK thread, I think you stated that bigger brakes won't make the car stop better, good tires are necessary for stopping distance. I am not disagreeing here, just looking for clarification. I truly believe that good tires are the number 1 best thing you can have to help avoid bad situations, I run Pilot Sports and am reluctant to try anything else. :confused

Braking is all about the conversion of kinetic energy (motion) into heat energy (friction) and dissipating that heat.

Friction, quite simply, is the creation of heat energy by rubbing.

When you apply the brakes, what happens? Brake pads rub against rotors, right? But the rotors themselves are only an intermediate step. The total car's interaction is with the road surface itself, and the point of contact is obviously the tires. So what is really slowing the car is the final friction point, tire rubber against road surface. The brakes themselves are simply an intermediate mechanism.

But when we're talking about a big brake kit, we're talking about improvements in other facets of braking:

Thermal capacity:

Let's revisit friction; remeber that the final element of that energy conversion process discussed above is the dissipation of heat energy. The heat must be gotten rid of because all of the friction elements (pads, rotors, tires) have a finite limit to how much energy they can store before they overheat. Once any of those components has overheated, it has reached the limit of how much energy it can store, and therefore it cannot create any more heat. Follow the cycle backwards, the heat is created by friction, and friction is braking. Can't create heat, there's no friction, and therefore no braking. When the concept of "brake fade" is discussed, that's the cause. Too much heat.

A BBK's larger components are not just for show. Think of larger pads and rotors simply as larger storage devices for heat, which are also more efficient at dissipating that heat. Simply due to more mass, more thermal energy can be collected before reaching that overall maximum temperature at which failure occurs. Likewise, the larger surface areas cool more rapidly, so that the heat energy does not stay in the pads, rotors, or calipers as long. Double benefit.

The greater thermal capacity of a BBK gives it more resistance to brake fade... not just in a single high-speed deceleration event, but more importantly, over a series of deceleration events whose cumulative heat generation would more rapidly overwhelm the less-capable OE parts.

Modulation and feedback:

The OE calipers are a simple, inexpensive type of caliper called a floating caliper. This means the caliper body itself has a compression piston on only one side, and the entire caliper body "floats" or slides on two pins. With a pad on either side of the rotor and just one piston pushing a pad against the rotor disk, the sliding movement of the caliper causes that pressure to be evenly distributed across both pads, squeezing the rotor from both sides. A good concept, easy to manufacture and inexpensive - which is why the majority of production cars use the design.

So what's the problem? Caliper squirm. The guide bushings on the pins that the caliper rides on deform under the very high forces of braking. This causes a mushy pedal and pads that wear unevenly. The flex built into the system as a result of those bushings also makes it more difficult to modulate the brake application. Think of trying to tie your shoes while wearing gloves and you have a good idea of how an imprecise interface inhibits your fine control.

Aftermarket BBKs usually use what is called a fixed caliper. A fixed caliper is rigidly mounted, no floating across guide pins. It has pistons in both sides of the caliper. Pedal application results in a precise movement of the pistons, pressure equalized by the shared hydraulic fluid. This design does not suffer from bushing deformation, making application much more resistant to temperature changes and also much easier to modulate. This design is usually seen only on the most expensive cars (Porsche, Ferrari, high-end Mercedes) because it is more expensive - effectively double the parts of the floating caliper, which makes production cost that much higher. Nevertheless, these high-end performance cars use that type of caliper for a reason - the drivers realize the results are worth the added expense.

What have we learned?

"Better stopping" is not about a single deceleration event, it's about repeatability and control.

Better tires improve any braking system's actual stopping distance, but do nothing to correct the weak links of the OE caliper/rotor assembly's lower thermal capacity.

Not to complicate things even further, but "better tires" are often stickier - which increases friction - and will therefore expose a brake system's limitations simply by forcing them to match the better tire's larger performance envelope.

For a 7-series' street use needs, I think you have made an excellent choice with the Pilot Sports. There are other similar tires from the major manufacturers, but their performance is similar. Anything "higher performance" (such as a BFG G-Force or Toyo R888) will present compromises in road noise, reduced tire life, and inferior performance in wet conditions.

Hope that helps!

so just to be clear, would cross drilled rotors such as the brembos that are available as an oem replacement be enough of a change to work with a supercharged car?

In and of itself, drilled rotors have no improvement whatsoever on braking. Less surface area and less mass means less thermal capacity.

It's a common misconception (that many retailers are glad to exploit) that cross-drilling improves cooling. Truth is, less cooling is the result. Rotors get cooled by drawing air in the center and venting it radially all the way through to the edge. The air is moved by virtue of centripetal forces that literally pump it through. With a drilled rotor, the holes create premature vents and not as much air moves through, resulting in less cooling.

So what's the point of drilled rotors?

Drilled rotors were originally used as a weight saving method. Take mass out of the rotor, and it's easier to spin. Less force required to turn the rotors means more accelerative force. That's it. No other reason or benefit at all.

Actually, the Wilwood technical literature sums it up best:

Caution on drilled rotors: There is a common mis-perception that rotors are drilled to improve cooling. The reduced mass of a drilled rotor will dissipate its retained heat quicker, but it also builds up heat a much faster rate. The decision to use drilled rotors should be solely based on the merits of the lower rotating and unsprung weight, and not for improved cooling. It is not wise to use drilled rotors in sustained high heat on hard braking tracks unless the team budget affords a high frequency of rotor and brake pad replacement.

So what are the downsides of drilled rotors? Less thermal capacity, shorter life, increased noise, and faster pad wear.

- Rob

Thanks a bunch. So then my follow up question would be, are slotted rotors more effective in cooling?

As a retired (medical after ten years) police officer, I'm certainly intimately familiar with the limitations of vehicles and of drivers. I've been highly HIGHLY trained in various aspects of not only high speed driving, but multitask/high risk driving. I'm far less concerned about myself and my own limitations, than I am about the things over which I have no control. Specifically, environmental hazards, unexpected roadway hazards, and of course the "average" driver.

I don't tend to "over drive" the limitations of my car or myself. I'd like to stay alive and keep my car for as long as possible. However, I WILL S/C my car this winter. I'm not going to be taking it to track events (or I don't plan on it) but I may run it at the Sacramento Raceway in some 1/4 mile fun runs. I've always been of the mindset that power can save your life. Certainly, the 740 has plenty of power as it stands, but I think I might enjoy the occasional snap of acceleration on an early morning weekend run down hwy 50 or "spirited drive the other direction to Lake Tahoe.

In my opinion, a BBK isn't a necessity for this kind of driving because regardless of how fast I may get to a certain speed, the fact of the matter is I'd likely have gotten there eventually anyway, so braking from that speed would have happened regardless.

I know this is a wordy post, but appreciate the input from this forum's members.

PS...I went to "Eurosunday" this past weekend and got some VERY positive comments on my wheel/tire combo. People were impressed with the clean look, so I'm thinking it just didn't photograph well! :)

So tell me if i'm right in my theoretical idea on this. Let's say you have a STOCK rotor, which the pad can have 100% contact with. If you drill holes in that STOCK diameter rotor (Brembo replacements found online, etc), you've basically given the pad (guesstimate, follow along) only 90% of the rotor to use, so you've got less braking surface since holes are there, which in turns heats up faster becuase there is less material to soak up the heat, right?

Now, with a BBK, it's just that...bigger. So even if you drill holes, lets say in a rotor itself is 20% larger than STOCK, and those holes comprise 10% of the rotor on the BBK, you're still 10% ahead of the STOCK rotor, not to mention better calipers which also have better contact. Poor interpretation, but is that basically the "idea" with a BBK? The BBK has holes also, but since the rotor is larger than stock, it makes up for those holes in increased overall size compared to even a stock non-drilled rotor?

Jesus my head hurts.....goodnight ;)

Cody, you don't know your car very well. First off, the headers between the 540, 740, and M5 are the same pieces, www.realoem.com (http://www.realoem.com) shows that and it's been discussed here many times before. Everything after the headers between the 3 cars is probably very similar w/ the exception of diameters between how the cars are configured ie single vs. dual exhaust. Look at pics of the bottom side of an e38 and m5, Some have even bolted M5 systems straight onto their 7's w/ minor adjustment. Supersprint makes headers that they claim only work on the M5, but guys like Bimmerfixr has shown that they easily bolt up. Second, I don't what you're carrying around in your car, but my 98 iL weighed 4230 w/ me in it and 1/2 a tank of gas.

The M5 headers and CATs' are more efficient because of the reduction in flow restriction and yes they do bolt right on. As for the weight, the car an '01 model had 1/2 a tank of gas and the full size spare tire was still in the trunk - I was not in the car - those are the numbers the scale reported. As for the weight of your car with you in it maybe it was full of hot air and therefore lighter - just kidding :rolleyes

Enjoy the ride !

Thanks a bunch. So then my follow up question would be, are slotted rotors more effective in cooling?

No. Slotted rotors have no effect on cooling either.

Slotting serves a few purposes:

* Create a channel for venting water (drving in wet conditions) and pad off-gassing (the gas released from a heated pad) that could otherwise create a lifting medium that does not allow good pad/rotor contact in certain situations. Ever run through a puddle and apply the brakes, and nothing happens for a moment? That's pad lift.

* Clean the surface of the pad with a wiping effect, reduces glazing.

* (When done properly) provide a visible rotor thickness guide. Ideally, when the rotor is worn past the slot (the slot disappears), the rotor has reached minimum thickness and is due for replacement.


I've been highly HIGHLY trained in various aspects of not only high speed driving, but multitask/high risk driving.

Get yourself to a BMW CCA (or other organization) driving school at a race track... I'd be very curious as to your impression and how what you learned earlier helped, and what new things you learned. No matter what, I can just about guarantee you will have a great time!

I'm far less concerned about myself and my own limitations, than I am about the things over which I have no control. Specifically, environmental hazards, unexpected roadway hazards, and of course the "average" driver.

What, you don't think reading the newspaper, applying makeup, driving with just a limp wrist on top of the wheel, and text messaging makes for good and safe driving technique? :lol

In my opinion, a BBK isn't a necessity for this kind of driving because regardless of how fast I may get to a certain speed, the fact of the matter is I'd likely have gotten there eventually anyway, so braking from that speed would have happened regardless.

At the very least, with your "spirited" driving, perform at least a basic refresh and pad upgrade. I've posted this before, but it bears posting again:

Improving the brakes on your car has just a few distinct levels:

LEVEL 1: Refresh the consummables with better parts.

a) new brake fluid (recommend Motul RBF600, Ate Blue, etc.)

b) good brake pads... please stop buying the so-called "dustless" pads that are the messageboard/group buy favorites. Low dust means low braking, and they chew up rotors. Get good enthusiast pads like the Hawk Performance Ceramic.

c) new brake lines, or better yet, stainless steel braided lines.

d) new genuine BMW guide bushings for the calipers.

e) fresh rotors if your old ones are worn or if you are experiencing shimmy only while braking (a sign of rotors suffering from overheated pad deposit contamination).

LEVEL 2: 740/735/728 owners only - complete swap to 750 brakes.

The 750 uses larger diameter and thickness rotors. Fronts are 334mm X 32mm, rears are 328mm X 20mm (vented). Pads are larger, and calipers are larger. Get the complete 4-wheel system which includes calipers, carriers, pads, and rotors and it is a direct bolt-on with no other modifications required. Of course, use the Hawk Performance Ceramic pads as in Level 1.

LEVEL 3: Aftermarket big brake kit

I believe that Brembo still offers a nice kit, and UUC has recently released a kit based on the E60 550i 2-piece rotors that is quite affordable.

- Rob

So tell me if i'm right in my theoretical idea on this. Let's say you have a STOCK rotor, which the pad can have 100% contact with. If you drill holes in that STOCK diameter rotor (Brembo replacements found online, etc), you've basically given the pad (guesstimate, follow along) only 90% of the rotor to use, so you've got less braking surface since holes are there, which in turns heats up faster becuase there is less material to soak up the heat, right?

Correct.

Now, with a BBK, it's just that...bigger. So even if you drill holes, lets say in a rotor itself is 20% larger than STOCK, and those holes comprise 10% of the rotor on the BBK, you're still 10% ahead of the STOCK rotor, not to mention better calipers which also have better contact. Poor interpretation, but is that basically the "idea" with a BBK?

The BBK has holes also, but since the rotor is larger than stock, it makes up for those holes in increased overall size compared to even a stock non-drilled rotor?

Mostly correct... except that not all BBKs have perforated (drilled) rotors, and many that do have an option for plain or slotted rotors.

For example, the UUC kits for 7-series have never offered perforated rotors - only slotted. Our 3-series kits have an option for either choice, but that's only because the perforated rotors are an alternate larger BMW rotor that also has a floating mechanism. All other factors being equal, the non-perforated is still the optimal choice from a performance and longevity standard.

- Rob

The M5 headers and CATs' are more efficient because of the reduction in flow restriction and yes they do bolt right on. As for the weight, the car an '01 model had 1/2 a tank of gas and the full size spare tire was still in the trunk - I was not in the car - those are the numbers the scale reported. As for the weight of your car with you in it maybe it was full of hot air and therefore lighter - just kidding :rolleyes

FWIW - and keep in mind I don't have the hard data handy on E38s - it is very common for BMW models to "gain weight" between early production cars and late production cars. Things like additional airbags, more electronics, more options (I think the optional adjustable rear seats themselves add around 80lbs), increased sound deadening, changes in emissions equipment, and even battery weight (late E38s have a 2-battery option) can all add up very quickly. I would think a few hundred pounds gained is quite possible.

- Rob

The M5 headers and CATs' are more efficient because of the reduction in flow restriction and yes they do bolt right on. As for the weight, the car an '01 model had 1/2 a tank of gas and the full size spare tire was still in the trunk - I was not in the car - those are the numbers the scale reported. As for the weight of your car with you in it maybe it was full of hot air and therefore lighter - just kidding :rolleyes

Enjoy the ride !

Headers are the same right down to the part numbers
1998 740iL - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GJ83&mospid=47531&btnr=11_1418&hg=11&fg=50
2001 M5 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE93&mospid=47592&btnr=11_2672&hg=11&fg=50

Cats are so similar it's probably negligable performance wise as to how different they are, but for certain the difference is diameter being the 740 @2.25 w/ the M5 @ 2.5 being the only perfomance difference. Size is about the only thing that may give them better flow
1998 740iL - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GJ83&mospid=47531&btnr=18_0255&hg=18&fg=10
2001 M5 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE93&mospid=47592&btnr=18_0374&hg=18&fg=10

Not to beat a dead horse...just to confirm...you installed a VF supercharger yourself and an installer would have done it for 600.00?

Yes.

Although while I was there, I replaced the intake gaskets, inner and outer valve cover gaskets, engine mounts, replaced both exhaust gaskets, upgraded to the Zionsville super duty kit( aluminum radiator and 2 speed electric fan, and swapped my valve covers to my black powder coated ones off my other engine.

I also did not use butt connectors provided by either company. I used smaller all metal butt connectors specifically made for wiring harnesses, heatshrinked connections, and enclosed them in vinyl tubing. IMO better than OEM or what was provided.

I did have to reroute the aluminum overflow output due to the S/C pulley being in the way.

Also, the S/C install required you to drill out brackets and leave the holes exposed. I bondo'd\sanded the holes and painted them.

Oh, I almost forgot, while it was down I also upgraded to stainless steel brake lines, flushed and bled brake system, and painted the calipers black.

Wow this thread is really going well. It's had it's moments but is coming together with all sorts of performance related material. It's good info about the brake, headers, and other performance mods that come into play when turning up the volume on your 7. I've not had time to get anything done to the ride as of yet, but will surely get around to it. I'm now considering things I may want to do after the diff swap. I probably won't do much of a drastic change to the diff, so I prolly won't have to worry about major upgrades to brakes and such. Again, I'm not a racer just a guy looking to move of from the stoplight a bit quicker in a heavy sedan. Thanks for all the AWESOME input and suggestions, they really help a novice like me to go in the right direction.:)
Lyon

+1...agree totally.

Agreed. Awesome information. How about posting some sources for some of these aftermarket items?

Rob, I was not aware that 750 brakes are bigger/better. I'm sure they are available at a much better price than an aftermarket kit. Having said that, the UUC kit sounds intriguing. I'll have to look into it. I looked into the Brembo kit, but $3400 for parts only seems excessive. Maybe thats just my naivety, however.

As for those mascara sporting, text message sending, burger-eating "average" drivers you commented on....well...I bet if we asked 100 of them, 99 would say they are a better than average driver!

Finally, I've done some auto-cross and track events, but not with this car. 10 years ago I had an e34 I used to play with!

:lol imagine how stupid fast and reliable you could make an e38 for the price of an e65. I love knowing that I own a 65k stickered vehicle for 18k, put 10k into the motor, 6k into the s/c, maybe 1k into the cooling system, 3k for the diff, and I could run w/ M5's and B7's for 1/3 the price when it's all said and done. I could get really crazy and spend another 5k for a 6spd tranny swap making my car even more unique....yummy. To this day i've always loved the e38 body.....low, wide, and long. E65's a little to rounded for my taste.

I enjoy making the power and enjoying the steps of the upgrade, but i've also bought factory made power also. To each their own.

Christ, it was just a joke. But, on your I'm driving a $65k car for $18k, I picked up my $83k E65 for $45k whch is probably worth $30k today. So it ain't that far of a stretch. You guys are clearly in this for the muscle and modification though which is not my thing. Plus you hate the "gay" "flamer" E65. LOL! Have fun with your cars.

Christ, it was just a joke. But, on your I'm driving a $65k car for $18k, I picked up my $83k E65 for $45k whch is probably worth $30k today. So it ain't that far of a stretch. You guys are clearly in this for the muscle and modification though which is not my thing. Plus you hate the "gay" "flamer" E65. LOL! Have fun with your cars.

Not me. I like some of the e65 cars I've seen. I've always loved the classic sporty lines of the e38 though. Based on what I've seen that's *coming*, BMW is about to hit the mark in a big way with the next flagship sedan!

e65s arent bad but i love the e38

reading up a bit james

so the m5 headers would have no performance gain on the e38?

Christ, it was just a joke. But, on your I'm driving a $65k car for $18k, I picked up my $83k E65 for $45k whch is probably worth $30k today. So it ain't that far of a stretch. You guys are clearly in this for the muscle and modification though which is not my thing. Plus you hate the "gay" "flamer" E65. LOL! Have fun with your cars.

I do like the 745i , and actually I like the rear most about the car. The tail light set-up is awsome on the latest 745i. I like the simplicity of the e38 setup, but from the back I think the newest 745i set-up takes the cake. I like the 740i for it's stealthy look over the e65 though. With all that said, you can PM me, and I will give you the address to have the car dropped off at. Thanks:)

No, really you car is not "gay" nor it is a "flamer" It's jus a little "flamboyant"(SP?). But, if I had the $45K to drop on a used BMW I may have bought an e65 just like you, probably not though.;)
Lyon

the tail lights on the 750 and 760 are nice, but enough about e65's and e66's lets keep talking about e38s haha

reading up a bit james

so the m5 headers would have no performance gain on the e38?

Stock, not a single bit. You can say you have M5 headers now if you wanna be able to brag to some chick though ;) Supersprint headers, definately. Seeing M5 guys claim around20-30hp alone w/ headers, we can almost get the same....seeing were smaller displacement and all it wouldn't be the same gains.

how much do supersprint headers cost?

nevermind ahah they cost 3,481 for the m5 headers from supersprint.....a little out of my price range haha

http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=SU-BE39M-HEADERS&Category_Code=superheaders

3k from Beastpower. I'd do the S/C and/or diff first, but that's just me. Getting these would be purely becuase I'm getting to the point where I wanna get everybit of power outta the car and I've got money to blow. I've done the little mods for power.....intake, exhaust......now it's time to start spending to get the most bang for the buck, then dwindle down slowly till their's either nothing left to do, or i'm content - which will probably never happen :evil2

...which will probably never happen :evil2

No "probably" about it. :evil2

FWIW, I am running BFG G-Force 285's

A little loud, but not bad at all.
Fronts came in yesterday, going to get them on tommorrow. Didnt even need to road force them

No "probably" about it. :evil2

:devillook

"Sorry love, we just don't have enough money right now for you to get that new matching purse and shoes set. Well anyways, if you need me I'll be in the garage installing that supercharger so we can get better gas mileage. Love ya!"

This what I was told by an indy. Germans measure their HP at the rear wheels and Americans measure theirs at the flywheel. From experience with my 69 Chevelle SS, 500hp at the fly(dyno@fly) will get you between 425-450 at the wheels (dyno@wheels) even with a very nice trans.

This what I was told by an indy. Germans measure their HP at the rear wheels and Americans measure theirs at the flywheel. From experience with my 69 Chevelle SS, 500hp at the fly(dyno@fly) will get you between 425-450 at the wheels (dyno@wheels) even with a very nice trans.

:lol Nope.

Anybody doing any dyno testing gets their results from one of three methods...

1) Chassis dyno - measure power at the wheels. Engine is in the car.

2) Engine dyno - just the engine is tested. This is clearly "crank hp" because there is no car.

3) Interpreted crank hp - using a wheel dyno, and a "guess" as to drivetrain losses, which are usually 10%-18%. This is a fudge factor, often used to pump up a number just for the fun of it.

Now with that all said, there's more the story...

Different countries use different correction factors:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/images/DYNO_FUDGE.gif

So your results will vary by whatever factor is being used - or, as the marketing dictates.

This is why most advertised dyno numbers are useless for comparison purposes.

Also, see the "smoothing" slider? This interpolates peaks and valleys, and is another way that dyno numbers are fudged - a spike (which may even be a dyno error) gets smoothed out over a wide range, making it appear there is more power across that range.

Just because it's graphed does not mean it's realistic or useful information.

- Rob

Which car is making more power?

http://www.uucmotorwerks.co