Wow my day has been crap.

I cranked car just fine - it gave me a "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT" check control error. It does this once every now and then but I have had people check every brake light, turn signals, and backup lights and they all work (so if you know the answer to this one, let me know -- I haven't searched yet though so may be simple).

Anyway, to clear it I stopped car and removed key. Waited a few seconds and tried to crank again...NO GO. The battery sounds fine as it is turning it over and I was able to get it to stay on for 15 sec with the gas pedal down a little bit, but it won't fully crank. I even cut off accessories, etc.

Luckily my fiancee hadn't left for work so I drove her there then drove her car to my job.

Just seeing two things
1) Anyone know quickly what this might be?
2) Any good BMW shops open past 7PM? I wouldn't make it home until a little after 6, then would need it towed to shop I guess if it still will not crank.

Thanks in advance for any help. At work so can't spend time searching for answers so please bring them to me if you have them!

Sorry to hear that. I was wondering why I didn't see you this morning. As for a repair shop open past 7, I don't know. I guess you could always have it towed so David (You're welcome, Bill) could look at it in the morning.

Mine did the same two things actually. The brake light error turned out to be a sensor up under the dash on the driver's side. Apparently it gets stuck and the car thinks that the lights aren't working when they actually are.

As for the not starting back up, I had the same issue two different times but for two different things. Once it was the ICV, and the other time it just freaked out and I just had to push the gas pedal down all the way and turn the key at the same time. It will pop a check engine light, but it will figure out that nothing is actually wrong and will eventually turn the light off.

However, I am not a master tech, so I could be totally wrong. :dunno

However, I am not a master tech, so I could be totally wrong. :dunno

You wrong....!??!?! Never!!!

:rofl: :rofl:

I guess you could always have it towed so David (You're welcome, Bill) could look at it in the morning.

Yes, he has a drop box. Give him a call.

Thanks, Booz!

:wave

You wrong....!??!?! Never!!!

:rofl: :rofl:

Indeed. :shifty






:wwfinger

I cranked car just fine - it gave me a "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT" check control error. It does this once every now and then but I have had people check every brake light, turn signals, and backup lights and they all work (so if you know the answer to this one, let me know -- I haven't searched yet though so may be simple).
Mine did the same two things actually. The brake light error turned out to be a sensor up under the dash on the driver's side. Apparently it gets stuck and the car thinks that the lights aren't working when they actually are.
Brake light switch. It mounts to a bracket above the brake pedal. Easily replaced in about 30 minutes. My E36 used to eat them about every two years. Before you buy a new switch, remove the driver's under dash trim panel and look at the connector to see whether you need the two- or four-pole switch.

Anyway, to clear it I stopped car and removed key. Waited a few seconds and tried to crank again...NO GO. The battery sounds fine as it is turning it over and I was able to get it to stay on for 15 sec with the gas pedal down a little bit, but it won't fully crank. I even cut off accessories, etc.
As for the not starting back up, I had the same issue two different times but for two different things. Once it was the ICV, and the other time it just freaked out and I just had to push the gas pedal down all the way and turn the key at the same time. It will pop a check engine light, but it will figure out that nothing is actually wrong and will eventually turn the light off.
:werd: My E36 absolutely hated when I tried to start it a second time after a very short (like, less than a minute) cold start. I had this problem a couple of times. Pressing the gas pedal a little while cranking helped the first time. The idle control valve failed the second time - the car would only run as long as I gave it gas.

Where is David, what is his number, what kind of shop, etc?

So it sounds like I MAY be able to get it to crank and run just fine after it sat all day recovering from cold start BS...possibly giving it a good bit of gas to get it off the ground...I will try that before anything else I guess.

Made time to search and found bimmerzone had a tutorial on replacing the switch under the dash so I will def. do that to get rid of this check control notification.

Wish me luck I guess and please get me info on David in case I do end up needing to get it looked at.

Thanks for the prompt replies too!

Oh yeah, as for that switch...can I buy it at a local parts store or is it a dealership/online purchase only?

Where is David, what is his number, what kind of shop, etc?

So it sounds like I MAY be able to get it to crank and run just fine after it sat all day recovering from cold start BS...possibly giving it a good bit of gas to get it off the ground...I will try that before anything else I guess.

Made time to search and found bimmerzone had a tutorial on replacing the switch under the dash so I will def. do that to get rid of this check control notification.

Wish me luck I guess and please get me info on David in case I do end up needing to get it looked at.

Thanks for the prompt replies too!

David Harrison
Harrison Motorsports
678.879.1200

Best independent BMW shop in the world.

:D

Sucks they are in Alpharetta...but thanks, if I need it I will go there!

Oh yeah, as for that switch...can I buy it at a local parts store or is it a dealership/online purchase only?
I'm not sure you would find that part at a local parts store. It's a very common failure item, so the dealer should have it in stock.

I made a slight clarification to my earlier post.

Best BMW hi performance Shop in Marietta, Ga
German Auto Repair
770-579-1613

Check the sockets in the tail light housing for melting and make sure you have bulbs with silver bases, Bimmers hate brass bulbs.

What everyone else said about the starting.

Check the sockets in the tail light housing for melting and make sure you have bulbs with silver bases, Bimmers hate brass bulbs.

What everyone else said about the starting.

Hey, You found it! The large text must work!

Hey, You found it! The large text must work!

I found my bifocal contacts. :stickoutt

Do cars like oil? Umm, yeah, they do. Now, how does my car have hardly ANY oil in it yet there is NOT a puddle on the ground? How does my car run just fine and then decide to suck and die and magically have 1/10th the intended oil without any signs as to where it went?

Off to get some oil...I didn't have nearly enough on hand to "top it off"...open to theories as the where the mystical oil went. Also hoping that if I add oil to appropriate level it will work.

Maybe the brake light circuit shot so much electricity through the oiling system that it vaporized? :grenade

Well, added approx 3 qrts of oil. Took advice, gave it some gas to get it cranked and rev'd. Finally idled without crapping out.

Drove it around, idled, started fine each time, check engine light went away.

So, cold start then stop + mystical oil vanishing = crappy morning for me.

Now, only 3k miles since last oil change. I want to know where the hell my oil went. Looked all over engine bay and underneath. Not a single drop to be seen.

No smoke anywhere.

David Harrison
Harrison Motorsports
678.879.1200

Best independent BMW shop in the world.

:DI think someone has a man-crush.

Well, added approx 3 qrts of oil. Took advice, gave it some gas to get it cranked and rev'd. Finally idled without crapping out.

Drove it around, idled, started fine each time, check engine light went away.

So, cold start then stop + mystical oil vanishing = crappy morning for me.

Now, only 3k miles since last oil change. I want to know where the hell my oil went. Looked all over engine bay and underneath. Not a single drop to be seen.

No smoke anywhere.

You are probably burning it. If it is not on the ground or somewhere in the engine bay, then that is the only thing I can think of.

Do some searches in the E36 M3 subforum - I think some folks have reduced their engine's oil consumption by switching to a different brand or weight.

Make sure your oil isn't in your coolant reservoir, although I doubt you could lose three quarts that way.

Who did the oil change? Do you know if it was actually checked after it was filled and started?

Who did the oil change? Do you know if it was actually checked after it was filled and started?

+1

I have had the oil changed in my M3 twice and had the low oil light come on before I got home.

It won't happen a third time.

Disclaimer: This did not happen at Harrison Motorsports.

+1

I have had the oil changed in my M3 twice and had the low oil light come on before I got home.

It won't happen a third time.

You better edit to say that the M goes someplace different than your "usual"....:devillook

You are probably burning it. If it is not on the ground or somewhere in the engine bay, then that is the only thing I can think of.

Seems like a LOT to burn and I went over the entire engine bay with a great light and didn't see anything (not to say I couldn't have missed it).

Do some searches in the E36 M3 subforum - I think some folks have reduced their engine's oil consumption by switching to a different brand or weight.

Yeah, I think that may be my main issue. Previous owner always used Mobil 1 5W-30. I used that last time but want to step up to something more specific to issue and climate.

Make sure your oil isn't in your coolant reservoir, although I doubt you could lose three quarts that way.

I will check that when I leave work when it is cool. Doubt it though, but can't hurt to check. Generally though wouldn't it be a two-way street in which coolant would make its way into oil? In which case I'd have some nice smells and smoke...don't ask how I know (damn Mustang).

Who did the oil change? Do you know if it was actually checked after it was filled and started?

I did. Not only did I measure the input (even though all cars vary slightly from specs), I checked dipstick. Drove around, checked again, added a little. Checked it again the next day. And maybe a week later. So the right amount went in...then out apparently!

What oil are you using?

What oil are you using?
Mobil 1 5W-30

Checked oil before leaving work. Was the same as when I added it last night. Checked coolant resevior. Couldn't see well, even with flashlight, so dipped towel in there. Looks and smells only like coolant.

Checked oil again when I got home...still the same, after 2 hrs on the road and ~100 miles today.

So far, so good....