View Full Version : DYI: Fix your convertible top switch for fully automatic top on '98 M3 and others.


wiseleo
08-11-2007, 09:10 PM
So you fixed your top and you can close it, but for whatever reason it won't open. Or you can open it, but can't close.

Chances are it is your switch that is at fault, which is BMW part number 61318363696.

Tools required:

1. Precision screwdrivers (for prying)
2. Multimeter or continuity tester
3. Alligator clip for the ground lead (makes life MUCH easier as this is a hellish switch on which to work!)

Disclaimer: Do not perform any work with electricity on energized circuits!

If you want to buy this switch new, it will cost you anywhere from $10 to $60. There really is no need to buy it, however. The reason for it malfunctioning is most likely corroded contacts.

You can extract this switch two ways.

1. Carefully pry it out with a screwdriver - faster, but may leave pry marks.
2. Remove the shift boot cover. On my automatic transmission it's held on by 4 clips. I simply pulled on it upwards, the plastic flexed, and the whole thing came out. On manual transmission it's a similar procedure.
3. With your fingers, push the switch up and out of the console.
4. It will be attached to a wiring harness with a couple of plastic pieces that you can squeeze to disconnect the harness from the switch itself.

OK, now you got the switch out. It is much easier to clean it if you actually take it apart.

I used a couple of precision screwdrivers. The fastest way I found to open this switch, and it is a pain to open, was to use the precision screwdriver to pry up behind the 4 plastic tabs that secure the black body of the switch to the green circuit board inside a white shell.

Now that you have the switch opened and removed from the white shell, get out your multimeter or a basic continuity tester.

Here is your pinout (ignore the two small dots, I can't enter spaces to line this up in this software).

6 5 4
* * *
3 2 1
* .. *

6 - LED light in the upper left corner
5 - Close top
4 - Not sure, probably night-time lighting
3 - Open top
2 - Ground
1 - Ground

You will notice that pin #2 is missing, that's normal. It is electrically connected to pin #1.

Connect your ground lead of the tester to pin #1 and touch pin #6. You should have the smallest LED light up if you have sufficient voltage (I have 9V in my tester).

Now press the Close Top button (it's the one that is closer to other LEDs) and touch pin #5. You should have a circuit. Release Close Top button and the circuit should interrupt.

Now press the Open Top button, which is the other one, and touch pin #3. You should have a circuit. Release the Open Top button, and the circuit should interrupt.

You should test for circuit both at the top of the circuitboard where the buttons are and at the bottom of the circuit board.

If you have a circuit at the top of circuit board, and none at the bottom, which is probably what you will experience, that is your problem.

For those who've never done continuity testing - switch your meter into Ohm-meter mode, which looks like the horseshoe. You'll want the lowest setting counting in single Ohms because there will be almost no resistance. That will make voltage flow across the test probes. Don't do this on an energized circuit!

I found that a Philips screwdriver works marvelously for getting the oxidization off those contacts. You can then also use something like Deoxit or rubbing alcohol, if you desire.

Clean that pin #3 until you get continuity from the entire pin. Also clean pin #5 thoroughly as well.

Test the switch in your car before reassembling it. Easiest way? Put it in the white base, and then connect the wiring harness.

Note: it may be exciting to watch your top finally work, but pay attention to what it does. You will probably want to pull in the bows just in case before the tonneau cover opens.

Start your car before you start playing with your top as it's a heavy drain on your battery.

See the bungee fix details for fixing the tension strips in the stickies.

Credit to BMW of Fremont for providing me with the printout of the wiring diagram without much hassle, although after several disclaimers. I'll attach it later.

Please feel free to PM me with questions specifically related to the convertible top switch DYI.