Thinking of getting some K1's for my E36 M3 track car.

Are they good rims? Light enough (16.8 lbs for 17 x 8.5)? Durable?

Do they make a big difference over my stock 95 DS1 rims?

I'll be running RA-1/R888's on them if that matters. Plus I have TC Kline DA C/O's.

For the price, one of the best wheels you can get.

They're wider than your stock wheels. And lighter. Those would be differences. As far as how much difference... depends on how good YOU are. :)

As above. There are better wheels and better looking wheels but the price/performance ratio is pretty compelling for the purpose.

Do I prefer TE-37's yup. I'd also like something 9" wide in magnesium but I can't afford it and I don't like my chances on the street where I actually drive.


I'm also mildy hesitant on light weight wheels for the street in general (my definition of light weight being ~17 pounds for a 17" wheel). I think I might like them but I think this would also put wheels into the consumable category for me which I'm not sure my wallet can afford.

As an Autocross, track wheel however I'd like two sets :)

They're wider than your stock wheels. And lighter. Those would be differences. As far as how much difference... depends on how good YOU are. :)


I'd be running 235/40/17 RA-1/R888's on them. Same tires as I run in my DS1's.

Is there a big difference running the same tires on a 1 inch wider K1 rim than my 7.5 inch DS1's?

great wheels for the money--have held up incredibly well with extensive track use-now running a second set on the street since getting a BBK and they have been just fine--certainly strong enough for routine street use, but I would not take on potholes at speed--I hav heard of Koseis bending with curb/pothole abuse--

overall, great stuff

They are light and cheap...a pretty good combo in my opinion.

I have 12 that I use on my IP car and I've never had a problem.

You can't go wrong with them.

But will my 235-40-17 RA-1's work that much better on on a 8.5 inch Kosei versus my 7.5 inch DS1 rims??

That's the 600.00 question.

Even though I am going to a wider rim, my tire size is the same.

You know you could just check the specs on the tire for supported rim width right? 235s and 8.5" go together like peanut butter and jelly.

But will my 235-40-17 RA-1's work that much better on on a 8.5 inch Kosei versus my 7.5 inch DS1 rims??

That's the 600.00 question.

Even though I am going to a wider rim, my tire size is the same.

No problem, I run 235/40-17 RA1s on my Koseis. I also have multiple sets like others here, cheap, light, good. It's easily the most widely used rim on tracked E36 M3 here in the U.S.

Carlos.

No problem, I run 235/40-17 RA1s on my Koseis. I also have multiple sets like others here, cheap, light, good. It's easily the most widely used rim on tracked E36 M3 here in the U.S.

Carlos.


Do you drive on your K1's to and from the track?

Can these rims survive a trip from Los Angeles to Laguna Seca?

How durable are these K1's for a track car like mine that sees maybe 1000 street miles here in LA and maybe 1500 track driven miles a year going to Socal race tracks?

Is there a big difference running the same tires on a 1 inch wider K1 rim than my 7.5 inch DS1's?


Yes. huge.

i dig em... te37's would have been cool, so would have rgr's or LM's... or for that matter the new ligthwieght wheel out (5spoke one.. couldnlt remeber who makes that one)

199 a rim.. get a ton of rubber on the ground..

I love them, I had them on my first 328is and they looked great

As has been said, the wheels are solid, cheap and light.

The set I bought four years ago saw 15K miles, a few dozen auto-x events before being sold to another enthusiast who is trying his best to beat them up..... so far, the wheels are winning.


Do you drive on your K1's to and from the track?

Can these rims survive a trip from Los Angeles to Laguna Seca?

How durable are these K1's for a track car like mine that sees maybe 1000 street miles here in LA and maybe 1500 track driven miles a year going to Socal race tracks?

Do you drive on your K1's to and from the track?

Can these rims survive a trip from Los Angeles to Laguna Seca?

How durable are these K1's for a track car like mine that sees maybe 1000 street miles here in LA and maybe 1500 track driven miles a year going to Socal race tracks?

I believe so, I've driven from Ann Arbor to Gingerman on them (west side of state 2.5-3 hrs), to Mid-Ohio (3 hrs), and to Putnam Park (5-6 hour drive to Indiana).

Carlos.

just ordered a second set. TireRack has them on sale at the moment. wider rim will give you better contact patch with the 235/40/17.

I agree with everyone great wheels, particularly for the price. I use a set for my track wheels and occasionally drive them on the street. I did bend one, but it was caused by an offtrack excursion, so that can only be expected.

K1's are f'n great. Run 235 to 255's on them! They also look bigger than they actually are since the spoke go all the way to the lip.

BMW_30, don't worry about these rims. They're reasonably strong, light and cheap. The biggest danger to most rims is potholes on the street and to a lessor extent out track excursions at the track. These risks will damage most wheels and certainly any that are within 150% to 200% the cost, so run them and if you do bend one replace it.

I've run mine for approximately 1,000 miles without incident, track, auto-x, street (to and from some events). They've seen minor potholes, dirt roads, gravel roads and stood up fine.

As was mentioned earlier the 8.5" rim width will be much better for your 235/40/17 tires than your 7.5" rims. They are lighter and will give you a slight improvement in contact patch plus an improvement in sidewall stiffness. This will translate into crisper turn-in and a more linear fell to your cornering. I'm talking about minor differences but they are noticeable.

Regards, Alan

BMW_30, don't worry about these rims. They're reasonably strong, light and cheap. The biggest danger to most rims is potholes on the street and to a lessor extent out track excursions at the track. These risks will damage most wheels and certainly any that are within 150% to 200% the cost, so run them and if you do bend one replace it.

I've run mine for approximately 1,000 miles without incident, track, auto-x, street (to and from some events). They've seen minor potholes, dirt roads, gravel roads and stood up fine.

As was mentioned earlier the 8.5" rim width will be much better for your 235/40/17 tires than your 7.5" rims. They are lighter and will give you a slight improvement in contact patch plus an improvement in sidewall stiffness. This will translate into crisper turn-in and a more linear fell to your cornering. I'm talking about minor differences but they are noticeable.

Regards, Alan


Thanks.

This was exactly what I needed to know.

I had the K1s on my e36 and cracked them all.

I now run 17x9 DForce LTW5 wheels (16.6lbs). The DForce are wider and stronger. A number of sponsors are now selling the DForce wheels - ie. Bimmerworld, UUC, Diffsonline.

www.dforcewheels.com

I highly recommend. The wheel was designed specifically for BMWs with race applications in mind.

-ursa-, how did you ever end up cracking all 4? :eek: You gotta start looking after your gear.
They really don't work for Monster Truck events.:lol

The DForce certainly are a very good option, but for someone looking for a low cost rim running RA-1s for most applications the K1 is still a good option.

The DForce is 150% the cost of the K1. They are a little lighter, stronger and as you say available from many Forum Sponsors (you forgot Vorshlag, along with the Bimmerworld, UUC, Diffsonline mention). Certainly they are one of the, if not the, best choice(s) in the next one to two price points above the K1s.

I'd like to have 1-2 sets if my budget was already shot to h*ll.

Bmw_e30, have you run the Toyo R-888s yet? Or just looking at them as the likely choice? Just wanting to get some feedback on the tire as to how it stacks up against the RA-1, haven't seen any comparisons.

Regards, Alan

Regards, Alan

get some kosei's in a 19"
/thread

I have a set of K1s and they do make a huge difference compared to the stockers, however I would not street drive them 100%. To and from the track only is fine.

why not run a 255/40 RA1?

im sure the K1s are fine for the street as long as ur sidewall is stiff enough depending on what brand tires u get as well. i got 235/45/17 on mine and so far so good :)

why not run a 255/40 RA1?
A 255/40/17 is going to be squeezed onto an 8.5" rim. For a 255, I would highly recommend a 9" (or even 9.5") wide wheel.

Hmm... who makes a good, lightweight 17x9" wheel for BMWs... :devillook

For the narrower 8.5" Kosei you should stick with the smaller 235 or 245mm tires.

A 255/40/17 is going to be squeezed onto an 8.5" rim. For a 255, I would highly recommend a 9" (or even 9.5") wide wheel.

Hmm... who makes a good, lightweight 17x9" wheel for BMWs... :devillook

For the narrower 8.5" Kosei you should stick with the smaller 235 or 245mm tires.

i agree, i run my 255/40 RA's on a 9" wheel, but if 8.5" is what you're limited to, id still run the 255, which is whats recommended by the manufacturer

What is recommended by the manufacturer and what's best are often two different things. BMW's recommended BS lifetime diff/tranny lube crap comes readily to mind.

A 255/40/17 on a 17x8.5" rim won't be substantially better than a 245/40/17 on it. Most of what the 245 gives up in tread width it gains back in shorter sidewall (better turn-in) and broader bead width to tread width ratio (more predictable/consistent handling).

If I were going to run a 255/40/17 and didn't already have rims for the tires then I'd save the extra cash for 17x9" rims and spacers. If I already had the 17x8.5" rims (come to think of it I do) and needed new tires then the 255/40/17 would be enticing, but I'm not sure they gain much, if anything.

My car (unfortunately not me, my co-driver) just won a double Regional AutoSlalom (Saturday & Sunday) in BSP on 245/40/17's against another E36 M3 from New England, with 255/40/17's. Both cars were running the K1 17x8.5" rims. The tires weren't the same but I'd have to think a 255/40/17 RT-615 with 12mm spacers and -3 degrees front camber would stick as well or better than 245/40/17 Yoko AO32-Rs with only -2.7 degrees front camber and not spacers. The two drivers are very close. Last year we put them in an RX-8 that neither had ever driven and they were within x/100ths of a second. The New England driver has been racing for over a decade, Ice Racing, Autocross (National Tour, Regionals, etc., with Class Titles over the past 5+ years).

At the end of the two days they were seperated by 1.51x seconds.

Regards, Alan

What is recommended by the manufacturer and what's best are often two different things. BMW's recommended BS lifetime diff/tranny lube crap comes readily to mind.

A 255/40/17 on a 17x8.5" rim won't be substantially better than a 245/40/17 on it. Most of what the 245 gives up in tread width it gains back in shorter sidewall (better turn-in) and broader bead width to tread width ratio (more predictable/consistent handling).

If I were going to run a 255/40/17 and didn't already have rims for the tires then I'd save the extra cash for 17x9" rims and spacers.

Regards, Alan

No spacers needed with the 255s on most e36 suspension set ups with the DForce 17x9 LTW5s. I run no spacers with my e46 and my Ground Control coilover set up with 255 40 17 Falken 615s all around.

:cool

A 255/40/17 on a 17x8.5" rim won't be substantially better than a 245/40/17 on it. Most of what the 245 gives up in tread width it gains back in shorter sidewall (better turn-in) and broader bead width to tread width ratio (more predictable/consistent handling).


Regards, Alan

spare me the lesson, we can argue about tire sizes all day in order to demonstrate knowledge of the subject, but the fact is that ra1's are available 235/40 and 255/40.

Dino, it wasn't my intention to give you a "lesson", just to point out that while Toyo recommend a rim width of no less than 8.5" for their 255/40/17 RA-1, that's really not where one wants to be. It's far better to be at the middle/upper end then at the bottom-end when dealing with rim widths.

-ursa-, thanks for the correction/clarification on the spacers regarding the DForce. The E36 M3 we competed against this past weekend with the K1s needed a spacer and lip rolling to fit the 255/40/17 Falken 615 on the front plus a little lip massaging in the rear.

That's one benefit you guys with the E46 M3s definitely have, more tire room.

Regards, Alan

must be a typo below; most e36 will need a spacer (10mm) in front for them
No spacers needed with the 255s on most e36 suspension set ups with the DForce 17x9 LTW5s.

must be a typo below; most e36 will need a spacer (10mm) in front for them

depending on the offset of the rim and clearance if u have a bbk ;)

I kind of have the smae question. Just bought a '95 with 17x8 RK's. I also got a set of some real heavy Italian wheels, 17x7.5 with Hoosiers (a few days left). I am thinking of either get the K1's and getting grounded by my wife or some used OEM wheels for the street and running the RK's on the track.

If I run Koseis with 235/40's would I typically need spacers? Ground Control coilovers. I have a set of 12mm/15mm H&R's which I previously used on my M5. Honestly, I am disappointed I can't use my 17x8.5 BBS RC's (wrong offset 15et) which are in perfect condition and were my M5 track wheels.

-ursa-, how did you ever end up cracking all 4? :eek: You gotta start looking after your gear.
They really don't work for Monster Truck events.:lol

The DForce certainly are a very good option, but for someone looking for a low cost rim running RA-1s for most applications the K1 is still a good option.

The DForce is 150% the cost of the K1. They are a little lighter, stronger and as you say available from many Forum Sponsors (you forgot Vorshlag, along with the Bimmerworld, UUC, Diffsonline mention). Certainly they are one of the, if not the, best choice(s) in the next one to two price points above the K1s.

I'd like to have 1-2 sets if my budget was already shot to h*ll.

Bmw_e30, have you run the Toyo R-888s yet? Or just looking at them as the likely choice? Just wanting to get some feedback on the tire as to how it stacks up against the RA-1, haven't seen any comparisons.

Regards, Alan

Regards, Alan


I have a set of brand new 235-40-17 R888 waiting in my guest bedroom until my RA-1's start to cord.

I'll give some feedback on the tires in a few months after I get them to Buttonwillow/WSIR/Cal Speedway.

Honestly, I am disappointed I can't use my 17x8.5 BBS RC's (wrong offset 15et) which are in perfect condition and were my M5 track wheels.
I believe the M5 also uses a different hub bore diameter than the E36/46...

my post above quoted the Dforce 17x9 ltw5, so the offset is +41mm (thus requiring most e36 to run front spacers)
depending on the offset of the rim

no
If I run Koseis with 235/40's would I typically need spacers? Ground Control coilovers.

...17x8 RK's. I also got a set of some real heavy Italian wheels, 17x7.5 with Hoosiers (a few days left). I am thinking of either get the K1's and getting grounded by my wife or some used OEM wheels for the street and running the RK's on the track...91M5, IIRC, the RK's are still quite heavy, 19 lbs.(?), but their 8" width would be fine for the 235/40/17s and better than a heavier rim with only a 7.5" width.
... If I run Koseis with 235/40's would I typically need spacers? Ground Control coilovers...As Everbruin said you won't need spacers to run the 235/40/17s, with the Koseis, especially with the GC coil-overs. The setup we competed against this weekend ran 255/40/17s on TC Kline coil-overs with -3 degrees camber front and -2 rear. He only used 10-12mm spacers with mild fender lip rolling front and rear. 235/40/17s on the K1s should fit strut front-ends w/o spacers, and definitely coil-overs w/o any need for spacers.

I'm running GC Strut Housings up front and don't need spacers with my 245/40/17 Yokohama AO32-R setup and only -2.7 degrees camber up front.

Having said that, others may feel differently, but my thinking is that you should run the spacers if you can as it will widen your front track and therefore slightly reduce under-steer. Terry, others, would you agree?

Regards, Alan

Alan, the 17x8 RK's are pretty light @ 17-18lbs IIRC. I have a set at home. :)

I believe the M5 also uses a different hub bore diameter than the E36/46...

I thought only E39's had the different hub bore.

The Wheel Weight site says 16.8lbs for the RK's for what it is worth. Time to get the scale.

narrow cars are better for autox, but maybe the trade is worth it? also i wonder if spacers negatively affect scrub radius
others may feel differently, but my thinking is that you should run the spacers if you can as it will widen your front track and therefore slightly reduce under-steer. Terry, others, would you agree?

I thought only E39's had the different hub bore.



Correct.

Carlos.

Thinking of getting some K1's for my E36 M3 track car.

Are they good rims? Light enough (16.8 lbs for 17 x 8.5)? Durable?

Do they make a big difference over my stock 95 DS1 rims?

I'll be running RA-1/R888's on them if that matters. Plus I have TC Kline DA C/O's.

These are a great wheel, the price cannot be beat especially since it dropped recently. We have used them for two seasons with both 235/40/17 Toyo RA1s and 255/40/17 Toyo RA1s and they have worked great. I have only damaged one wheel and that was only because I hit a tire wall at Infineon. Several off-track excursions and we have not bent any wheels to date.

I thought only E39's had the different hub bore.

The Wheel Weight site says 16.8lbs for the RK's for what it is worth. Time to get the scale.

The RK's have been available in two offsets, 35 & 38mm. I believe the 35mm were the lighter ones at 16.8 pounds each while the 38mm are heavier at 18.4 pounds each.

When I swapped my 28 some odd lb wheels for them a few months ago it was night and day difference. It was like the difference between playing basketball in a pair of combat boots compared to nikes :)

Also some people say they're soft and bend easily but let me tell you I hit potholes daily and they're unphased. A fairly strong wheel IMHO despite what others might think.

I believe the 35mm were the lighter ones at 16.8 pounds each while the 38mm are heavier at 18.4 pounds each.

Given my skill level, that could drastically affect my lap times. :D

Seriously, if I have the heavyweight version (not THAT heavy) I may keep those for my street wheels.

narrow cars are better for autox, but maybe the trade is worth it? also i wonder if spacers negatively affect scrub radiusNarrower is definitely better for auto-x, but it's really just bringing the front wheels out closer to the outside of the car (12.5mm=0.5"). For me at least, I very rarely clip a cone with the front tires. It's virtually always the rear tires, so I'd likely not have a problem with and extra 0.5" track per side on the front.

Regarding scrub radius, it would obviously change it but that's true for every E36 M3 running spacers. I don't really know anything much about scrub radius and I'm sure other folks here are reasonably knowledgeable on the subject and can address the issue. I too, would like to know if this would be sufficient to have any negative effects. My impression is that it wouldn't but I only have a basic, minimal understanding of scrub radius.

Regards, Alan

Guys, wonder if any of you can help me out. I have an opportunity to get some used Kumho 710s size 225 45 17s at a decent price. Do any of you run them on an 8.5 wide rim like the Kosei? The Kumho website says that you can but I was wondering if anyone had some experience.

Thanks for your help!

I miss my K1s :(

Thinking of getting some K1's for my E36 M3 track car.I've heard that K1's are no longer in production and that tirerack (and others) are selling off the last of their stock. If that's true, then that alone would be a compelling reason to avoid them. What happens a couple of years down the road if you bend or crack one and can't find a replacement?

That's one of the main reasons I went with Team Dynamics Racing (TDR) Pro Race 1.2 wheels for my track car. They've just started production and should be available for years to come. In my size (15x7"), the TDR's are just as light as the K1's and a bit stiffer/stronger to boot. I also think they look considerably better.

Emre

225 r comps should fit 8.5 rims

Thinking of getting some K1's for my E36 M3 track car.

Are they good rims? Light enough (16.8 lbs for 17 x 8.5)? Durable?

Do they make a big difference over my stock 95 DS1 rims?

I'll be running RA-1/R888's on them if that matters. Plus I have TC Kline DA C/O's.
We are getting rid of 3 sets of ours. We had 3 spokes of 5 break going into turn 1 at Phoenix at 130, just not worth the risk. the wheels were only 5 months old

O1S2, as Everbruin says, they'll fit fine.

It's a wide rim for a 225 tire so the rim lip will likely extend just a bit beyond the side of the tire. That's the situation I have with my 18"x8.5" BBS RGR's that run 225/40/18's for my street setup. The only hassle this ever gave me was that when I laid the wheels on their side at an event the rim would touch/scrape the pavement. 225's are very narrow for an E36 so don't expect to be super competitive, but they'll be great to practise/learn/develop on. They won't forgive as many mistakes so you'll have to be smoother, which is a good thing.

As I stacked mine the second rim would rub rim-to-rim rather than tire-to-tire. This created two problems. First, it scratched the rim lip slightly, and second, it meant that there wasn't a good rubber-to-rubber contact between the tires so my stack of four tires was a little wobbly. What I did to reduce the problem was use cardboard circles (about the same diameter as the tires) as a pad between the ground and the first rim and then between each rim. My cardboard came as a protective cover for my last set of tires and rims from Tire Rack.

Emrie, regarding the Kosei being discontinued, I've also heard this, from Tire Rack directly. Not sure if that's still the case or they decided to continue with them due to high sales volume, but if it's a concern a quick call to Tire Rack will verify or dispel this. What I do know is that Tire Rack bought what was supposed to be the entire final production run so they had a lot of them. Plus was told by Tire Rack that they don't sell all of the rims the have in stock if they go out of production. They said that they keep a good number behind to sell to customers to replace any rims that suffer road damage, etc.

IvanZ, that must have been an event you'd really like to avoid in the future, and having barrel-rolled and totalled a car at about 100/mph 2-3 years ago due to an equipment failure, I can fully appreciate your desire not to repeat such a failure.

I'm not sure if one can necessarily attribute the Kosei failure to the rims themselves or to damage to the rims in shipping or something else. I, like others, have heard of many rims failing of many different makes. There are a ton of Kosei K1's out there so it's inevitable that there will be some failures. The question is are they at a rate that is higher than other comparably priced rims? One must remember that these are a reasonably strong track rim not a super strong track rim which would cost you 2-4 times as much.

While it is a fairly good rule-of-thumb that you get what you pay for (you obviously bought 4 sets) and shouldn't complain if cutting corners on price extracts some penalty, I think the K1's are a better rim than their price would suggest. UUC's E36 325i #54 has run these rims for some time now without incident from what I know and it's seen more action than most K1's and better results. At last weeks race at Road Atlanta, not only did Arjun place his Kosei K1 equipped 325i on the pole but when a last-minute setup change was needed it forced Arjun to start from the back of the grid. He drove hard enough to go from last to the front in just the first 8 laps, and went on to win the race.

I'm not saying it wasn't an unprovoked failure (possible shipping/installing/etc., damage), just that there are a ton of those rims out there that run great every weekend without incident. Likely more than any other single make/model. That being said, I can fully understand not being comfortable running them after such a personal and unpleasant experience.

Regards, Alan

O1S2, as Everbruin says, they'll fit fine.

It's a wide rim for a 225 tire so the rim lip will likely extend just a bit beyond the side of the tire. That's the situation I have with my 18"x8.5" BBS RGR's that run 225/40/18's for my street setup. The only hassle this ever gave me was that when I laid the wheels on their side at an event the rim would touch/scrape the pavement. 225's are very narrow for an E36 so don't expect to be super competitive, but they'll be great to practise/learn/develop on. They won't forgive as many mistakes so you'll have to be smoother, which is a good thing.

As I stacked mine the second rim would rub rim-to-rim rather than tire-to-tire. This created two problems. First, it scratched the rim lip slightly, and second, it meant that there wasn't a good rubber-to-rubber contact between the tires so my stack of four tires was a little wobbly. What I did to reduce the problem was use cardboard circles (about the same diameter as the tires) as a pad between the ground and the first rim and then between each rim. My cardboard came as a protective cover for my last set of tires and rims from Tire Rack.

Emrie, regarding the Kosei being discontinued, I've also heard this, from Tire Rack directly. Not sure if that's still the case or they decided to continue with them due to high sales volume, but if it's a concern a quick call to Tire Rack will verify or dispel this. What I do know is that Tire Rack bought what was supposed to be the entire final production run so they had a lot of them. Plus was told by Tire Rack that they don't sell all of the rims the have in stock if they go out of production. They said that they keep a good number behind to sell to customers to replace any rims that suffer road damage, etc.

IvanZ, that must have been an event you'd really like to avoid in the future, and having barrel-rolled and totalled a car at about 100/mph 2-3 years ago due to an equipment failure, I can fully appreciate your desire not to repeat such a failure.

I'm not sure if one can necessarily attribute the Kosei failure to the rims themselves or to damage to the rims in shipping or something else. I, like others, have heard of many rims failing of many different makes. There are a ton of Kosei K1's out there so it's inevitable that there will be some failures. The question is are they at a rate that is higher than other comparably priced rims? One must remember that these are a reasonably strong track rim not a super strong track rim which would cost you 2-4 times as much.

While it is a fairly good rule-of-thumb that you get what you pay for (you obviously bought 4 sets) and shouldn't complain if cutting corners on price extracts some penalty, I think the K1's are a better rim than their price would suggest. UUC's E36 325i #54 has run these rims for some time now without incident from what I know and it's seen more action than most K1's and better results. At last weeks race at Road Atlanta, not only did Arjun place his Kosei K1 equipped 325i on the pole but when a last-minute setup change was needed it forced Arjun to start from the back of the grid. He drove hard enough to go from last to the front in just the first 8 laps, and went on to win the race.

I'm not saying it wasn't an unprovoked failure (possible shipping/installing/etc., damage), just that there are a ton of those rims out there that run great every weekend without incident. Likely more than any other single make/model. That being said, I can fully understand not being comfortable running them after such a personal and unpleasant experience.

Regards, Alan
I agree with you regarding cost for what you get. They are light and inexpensive. We expected to have some issues with bending, and we have had that, but that is to be expected with that wheel. But failure is not an option. and so we will have to go down the 3-4 times as expensive road in order to get a forged wheel. Not to say that this cures the problem, but the odds are greatly reduced.

...failure is not an option...Agreed. If you're situation is showing you those problems then you don't want to be anywhere near that kind of situation again.
...we will have to go down the 3-4 times as expensive road in order to get a forged wheel. Not to say that this cures the problem, but the odds are greatly reduced.Certainly should reduce things, but I'd keep a close eye on everything.

I'm wondering, with the good results many, not all, have had with the K1 if your problems were due to a bad batch (one would hope such a thing wasn't possible), or as I mentioned earlier a mounting, damage (off-course excersion, etc.) issue. Good luck and stay safe.

Regards, Alan

Agreed. If you're situation is showing you those problems then you don't want to be anywhere near that kind of situation again.
Certainly should reduce things, but I'd keep a close eye on everything.

I'm wondering, with the good results many, not all, have had with the K1 if your problems were due to a bad batch (one would hope such a thing wasn't possible), or as I mentioned earlier a mounting, damage (off-course excersion, etc.) issue. Good luck and stay safe.

Regards, Alan
I had not heard much, except with the bending issue. But in the paddock with the broken wheel laying there, we heard lots of similar stories, from the racers