I've heard that e34net grossly underestimates the time it takes to do any suspension work, and since I have a schedule to stick to, I want to plan the work as efficiently as possible.

How long would you estimate it'd take for one person to replace the front wheel bearings, thrust arms, and control arms?

I tend to work slowly and carefully, I've never done this work before, and the car's got 173k+ and minor/moderate rust. A few years ago, one "ball joint" (doesn't specify which) was replaced, but everything else is original, I believe.

I've heard that e34net grossly underestimates the time it takes to do any suspension work, and since I have a schedule to stick to, I want to plan the work as efficiently as possible.

How long would you estimate it'd take for one person to replace the front wheel bearings, thrust arms, and control arms?

I tend to work slowly and carefully, I've never done this work before, and the car's got 173k+ and minor/moderate rust. A few years ago, one "ball joint" (doesn't specify which) was replaced, but everything else is original, I believe.

When I did my suspension, I replaced everything up front all at once. Having said that, I can give you my best guess as to how long it will take. I think you and I probably work at a comparable pace.

I'd give yourself at least an hour for both sides to get the the control arms disconected from the steering plate, as at least one if not both will most likely be stuck in there pretty well. As far as removing the bolts that hold them in by the bushings, as long as those aren't rusted, I'd say 15 minutes each, tops. However, I ran into problems trying to remove the upper thrust arm bolt, due to my swaybar bracket blocking my ablility to get a wrench on the nut behind. Due to this, I needed to remove the swaybar bracket to get at the nut. This took much longer than planned, because one of the bolts in the bracket had rusted into the crossmember solid, and we ended up MELTING it out of the car with an oxyacetaline torch.

Don't forget that you'll need to re-tighten both of the bushing bolts under load. All told, I'd say you could probably do both arms from start to finish on both sides in no more than 8-10 hours, assuming you don't run into any major problems. I'd give yourself all day saturday, and part of sunday just in case to do this, but this may be a gross overestimate.

The upper control arms take about 30min per side. I would assume the lowers take about the same time. The wheel bearings can both be done in around an hour and 15minutes.

Start by removing the steering knuckle from the strut housing. There are three bolts requiring the use of a 19mm socket. Pull these out, and then pry the knuckle from the housing.

To remove the actual control arm, you'll need a 22mm wrench, a 22mm 1/2in drive socket, and either a breaker bar and ratchet, or a flex head ratchet.

The ball joints on the steering knuckle can be a royal PITA, and the proper tool to press them out is $$$. That said careful application of a large pickle fork and mini sledge hammer will let get the joints apart. The long bolt going through the bushing end may need to be driven in/out with a drift punch.

Re-assembly is straight forward, keeping in mind that the nut on the ball joint can be torqued in the air, while the nut on the bolt going through the
bushing must be torqued with the car sitting in a loaded position.

The wheel bearings require removal of the brake caliper/caliper bracket (2x 19mm head bolts) and the rotor (1x Allen head bolt requiring 5mm Allen). Unless you have an impact wrench, make sure to pull the dust cover, and break the 46mm (across flats) nuts loose with the car on the ground. These will get re-torqued to 300N-m once the new bearings are in, and can be a royal bitch to get loose.

In synopsis, you should be able to do all said work in under 4 hours. You will need an alignment once you've replaced the stuff you're talking about doing.

Do you have an impact gun/wrench? ball joint separator? pickle forks? lift? I would set aside 5-6 hours total since this is your first time and you said yourself that your pace tends to be "slowly and carefully".

The first time I did the upper and lower control arms, it took me about 4 hours total. Most of that time I spent trying to separate the ball joint from the steering plate. Once taken apart.. it only took about 30 minutes to actually put it all back together.

I plan on getting some combination of pickle forks and a tierod puller. I have jackstands and ramps - no lift.

My brakes (rotors and pads) were changed back in April, so they should come off without much difficulty.

Ok, what exactly is the steering knuckle? Is it #1 in this (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD13&mospid=47408&btnr=32_0336&hg=32&fg=25) diagram, which presumably bolts up to the strut housing?

300Nm...so, me standing on the end of a 2-foot bar?

if i were u id get a ball jpint separator. they are a lot more effective. this job sucks ass BTW.

300Nm...so, me standing on the end of a 2-foot bar?
before I got my impact gun, I had a 4' steel pipe that slid over my breaker bar. Did the trick just fine.

Ok, what exactly is the steering knuckle? Is it #1 in this (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD13&mospid=47408&btnr=32_0336&hg=32&fg=25) diagram, which presumably bolts up to the strut housing?
you got it

Astro Front End Service Set

Sale!
$79.50 7838 Features:
Allows easy removal of most popular types of pitman arms, tie rods, and ball joints
Press type ball joint separator allows for ball joint removal without damage to boots and other parts
Set Includes: Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller, Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Remover, Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Pullerhttp://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/7838.jpg

I bet that set helps. When I did my thrust arms last year, it took me 5.5 hours to get the passenger side ball joint to pop out. Brake fluid, a torch, pickle fork, and a big hammer was all it took though.

I plan on loaning the pickle forks/tierod pullers from an autoparts store.

I bet that set helps. When I did my thrust arms last year, it took me 5.5 hours to get the passenger side ball joint to pop out. Brake fluid, a torch, pickle fork, and a big hammer was all it took though.

Brake fluid? :confused

This set saved a ton of time and busted knuckles.



Astro Front End Service Set

Sale!
$79.50 7838 Features:

Allows easy removal of most popular types of pitman arms, tie rods, and ball joints
Press type ball joint separator allows for ball joint removal without damage to boots and other parts
Set Includes: Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller, Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Remover, Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Pullerhttp://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/7838.jpg

I did my left wheel bearing in 30 mins tops...but thats with the help of an impact wrench and a puller.

Astro Front End Service Set

Sale!
$79.50 7838 Features:

Allows easy removal of most popular types of pitman arms, tie rods, and ball joints
Press type ball joint separator allows for ball joint removal without damage to boots and other parts
Set Includes: Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller, Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Remover, Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Pullerhttp://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/7838.jpg

X1000

I have a similar OTC set and it makes the ball joint/steering knuckle debacle a non-event. Best $100 bucks you can spend.

Plan on the entire front end taking a full day, about 8 to 10 hours, since its your first time.

Do you have an impact gun/wrench? ball joint separator? pickle forks? lift? I would set aside 5-6 hours total since this is your first time and you said yourself that your pace tends to be "slowly and carefully".

The first time I did the upper and lower control arms, it took me about 4 hours total. Most of that time I spent trying to separate the ball joint from the steering plate. Once taken apart.. it only took about 30 minutes to actually put it all back together.

+1 first time is a bitch. I can swap both sides, upper and lowers in less than an hour start to finish now.

Brake fluid? :confused

I heated where the ball joint bolt goes into bottom plate on the strut/shock housing. The metal expands, poured brake fluid on the ball joint. A few good hits later with a 2lb hammer and pickle fork, it popped lose they same way the driver side did. Just a trick of the trade I guess.