Hey guys,

I know this has been covered all over the place, but after a bit of searching, I couldn't find my answer.

I got in the car this morning, and the temp was around 70 or so. I started up the car, and the idle was very rough. It was rocking the whole car back and forth. I've never felt this before. I tried driving a bit, and it was tough. The engine was surging a bit, and it was causing a noise to come from the clutch as it was engaging. I drove it around the block, and it didn't get any better, so I borrowed a car to get to work. Can the intake mani/pcv gaskets really cause an idle this rough? I didn't see and CELs.

Will letting it warm up, and then driving it cause damage, or should I wait to fix it before driving it further?

To check and make sure its the intake/pcv gaskets, I should spray starter fluid around the areas where the gaskets are right? And if it stumbles, I've found the culprit?

What all gaskets will I need to order if this is the problem?

How long did it take you guys to fix this? 4 hours? A whole weekend?

Thanks for your help guys...

Nikasil or Alusil? How many miles? I recall you mentioning that you had a Nikasil block, but I'm not positive.

Could very well be the Nikasil problem, or more likely, it's the intake/PCV gaskets.

Nikasil or Alusil? How many miles? I recall you mentioning that you had a Nikasil block, but I'm not positive.

Could very well be the Nikasil problem, or more likely, it's the intake/PCV gaskets.

As far as I know, the Nikasil issue doesn't suddenly happen. Its a gradual process, and as I said, its never done anything like this before. Also, I haven't heard of a single Nikasil case springing up the entire time I've been on this board. I know its likely to be the intake PCV gaskets, but specifically what gaskets are they, what do I need to replace while I'm in there, and how can I be sure they are it?

As far as I know, the Nikasil issue doesn't suddenly happen. Its a gradual process, and as I said, its never done anything like this before. Also, I haven't heard of a single Nikasil case springing up the entire time I've been on this board. I know its likely to be the intake PCV gaskets, but specifically what gaskets are they, what do I need to replace while I'm in there, and how can I be sure they are it?

So you do have a Nikasil block? How many miles? I'm just curious.

Take off your engine cover and spray the area/crevice where the intake mani is. If the idle surges up, you know you have a problem.

So you do have a Nikasil block? How many miles? I'm just curious.

Take off your engine cover and spray the area/crevice where the intake mani is. If the idle surges up, you know you have a problem.

Yes, Nikasil, 194xxx miles.

Yes, Nikasil, 194xxx miles.

Yeah, it may just be the intake mani gasket/PCV plate then. I've heard that if your Nikasil engine is strong past ~ 125k miles or so, you usually won't have problems with it later on--but not necessarily, of course.

Anyone who's had to deal with this..???

I had a similar problem about 5 months ago. Idle was really rough, and mine had a horrible squealing from somewhere underneath the engine. My problem was not the PCV (Crankcase Ventilation Valve) gasket or O-ring. I WAS the PCV valve #3 HERE. (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE63&mospid=47410&btnr=11_1498&hg=11&fg=40) Replaced it and all was well. Not bad to replace once you remove the expansion tank and the noise dampener behind the intake manifold. The Torx screws can be a pain and are easy to strip if you do the job with the intake manifold on the engine as I did. Mine wouldn't idle up if anything was sprayed near intake manifold. It was sucking oil into the intake b/c of the bad valve. Anyway, just my $.02.. Hope this helps......

I replaced the gasket, intake manifold, and PCV recently, and my car still is very shaky until the engine warms up a bit

I replaced the gasket, intake manifold, and PCV recently, and my car still is very shaky until the engine warms up a bit

Make sure the oil pipe is seated properly. You can take a flat blade screw driver and tap it to the rear. Just because you got the metal clip thing on doesn't mean the pipe is seated on the O-ring. Also make sure your connector to the idle control valve is the correct one. I remember their being two that could be interchanged if you weren't careful with the labels.

Can anyone tell me specifically what parts I'll need to replace while I'm in there? Where should I order from? Autohausaz?

Can anyone tell me specifically what parts I'll need to replace while I'm in there? Where should I order from? Autohausaz?

Please!?!!? Anyone who can tell me what I need to order to fix this...