so after much threading and many a pm i've decided that an e36 right now probably wouldnt be the best way to spend what savings i've got...so i've been looking at an e30 right now...curious to know of what anybody here recommends when shopping for one. i've already inquired the seller about rust, there's some under the rear driver's wheel well, preventive maintenace, seller's replaced the thermostat and coolant hoses as well as other regular maintenance by himself. is there anything i should be looking for particularly in an e30? i've read that the 95 e36s have a water pump issue...anyways feel free to leave some pointers, i'd really appreciate it guys! :help

When looking at an E30, check the following:

Functionality of power windows/sunroof
Functionality of central locking system
Functionality of heating and A/C system
Functionality Check Control system
Look underneath for blown axle boots
Look for excessive fluid leaks (It's an E30, chances are it'll leak something, minor leaks are no big deal).
Look at/listen while driving for rear shock mounts
Jack a wheel or 2 up and check out wheel bearings/front end for play
Look under hood at spark plug wires, ask seller what spark plugs are in it (NOTHING Platinum, Iridium, etc. - regular Copper spark plugs)


Start the car. How easily does it start? It should start right up, regardless of mileage. Shouldn't be any odd noises/feelings. Ticking from the engine is normal. Ask when the last valve adjustment was made.

When looking at an E30, check the following:

Functionality of power windows/sunroof
Functionality of central locking system
Functionality of heating and A/C system
Functionality Check Control system
Look underneath for blown axle boots
Look for excessive fluid leaks (It's an E30, chances are it'll leak something, minor leaks are no big deal).
Look at/listen while driving for rear shock mounts
Jack a wheel or 2 up and check out wheel bearings/front end for play
Look under hood at spark plug wires, ask seller what spark plugs are in it (NOTHING Platinum, Iridium, etc. - regular Copper spark plugs)


Start the car. How easily does it start? It should start right up, regardless of mileage. Shouldn't be any odd noises/feelings. Ticking from the engine is normal. Ask when the last valve adjustment was made.

thanks- will ask.

so after much threading and many a pm i've decided that an e36 right now probably wouldnt be the best way to spend what savings i've got...so i've been looking at an e30 right now...curious to know of what anybody here recommends when shopping for one. i've already inquired the seller about rust, there's some under the rear driver's wheel well, preventive maintenace, seller's replaced the thermostat and coolant hoses as well as other regular maintenance by himself. is there anything i should be looking for particularly in an e30? i've read that the 95 e36s have a water pump issue...anyways feel free to leave some pointers, i'd really appreciate it guys! :help
Curious as to why an E30 would be better than an E36? Are you concerned about maintenance? Or is the initial price keeping you from this decision?

Curious as to why an E30 would be better than an E36? Are you concerned about maintenance? Or is the initial price keeping you from this decision?


price yes, i've been told i should aim for a non M 3 series and to go E30, also that maintenance goes hand in hand in price and that e30s are a bit on the cheaper side to maintain...t/f?

price yes, i've been told i should aim for a non M 3 series and to go E30, also that maintenance goes hand in hand in price and that e30s are a bit on the cheaper side to maintain...t/f?

Well it depends. A lot of E30s are being sold for more than E36s now. Also the cost to maintain them can be the same. A lot of parts are interchangeable from the E30 to E36. But the E30 does have a timing belt, distributer, cap, rotor, plug wires, etc.. So as far as tune ups go they will often times cost more. In the E36 you just replace plugs.

A lot of the costs are going to be dependent on how much you will be working on the car. If every time you have a problem you have to take it somewhere, both cars are going to cost money. But having worked on both cars, I will take working on the E36 any day of the week.

If you do not have proof that the timing belt has been done be prepared to do that job immediately.
Everything else is cake on an e30.

If you do not have proof that the timing belt has been done be prepared to do that job immediately.
Everything else is cake on an e30.

David, what do you think about price differences between E30 parts or E36 parts. Same/more/less?

David, what do you think about price differences between E30 parts or E36 parts. Same/more/less?

In most cases e30 parts are less expensive. Brake pads and rotors, plugs, common parts are cheaper. Suspension parts and engine parts are comparable to e36 pricing. A/c is more expensive on e30s now. So....

At the end of the day, I would probably recommend an e30 for a first timer. Lower initial cost and less easy to screw up(except t-belt) and more durable in some aspects than an e36. This is assuming the purchase of a car in good working order and not a basket case. That assumption applies to both models.
Buy the best car that you can afford and have checked out before buying to avoid major screw up.


For instance the guy that was selling the pristine e30 on here for $7500 and Kelly Childress's e36 for $5500, which is the better car? The e30 was immaculate and gone through. Kelly's car was a good daily driver that needed some normal wear and tear replacement bits. Assuming no mechanical skillz which would you have purchased?

This is a thread with legs.

In most cases e30 parts are less expensive. Brake pads and rotors, plugs, common parts are cheaper. Suspension parts and engine parts are comparable to e36 pricing. A/c is more expensive on e30s now. So....

At the end of the day, I would probably recommend an e30 for a first timer. Lower initial cost and less easy to screw up(except t-belt) and more durable in some aspects than an e36. This is assuming the purchase of a car in good working order and not a basket case. That assumption applies to both models.
Buy the best car that you can afford and have checked out before buying to avoid major screw up.


For instance the guy that was selling the pristine e30 on here for $7500 and Kelly Childress's e36 for $5500, which is the better car? The e30 was immaculate and gone through. Kelly's car was a good daily driver that needed some normal wear and tear replacement bits. Assuming no mechanical skillz which would you have purchased?

This is a thread with legs.

Agree'd. E30's are simpler to work on, IMO better built vehicles, cost less to repair, and don't have rampant cooling system problems like E36's do. Is the E36 a good car - absolutely. But as David said, not for the first timer. E30 parts can be had for alot cheaper than E36 parts as well, for the most part (except ignition parts, and I guess A/C parts as well).

thanks for the input guys. questions (forgive if they're noobie) what exactly can go wrng with a timing belt? i'll ask the seller about that of course but i'm curious to know. also the seller mentioned he's replaced the thermostat and coolant hoses- does this take care of a/c? as for that on an e30 what other things are important to note? i'm reading alot about rust...

thanks for the input guys. questions (forgive if they're noobie) what exactly can go wrng with a timing belt? i'll ask the seller about that of course but i'm curious to know. also the seller mentioned he's replaced the thermostat and coolant hoses- does this take care of a/c? as for that on an e30 what other things are important to note? i'm reading alot about rust...


Timing belts can snap, and on E30's, are only recommended for a 50k mile lifespan. Normally, they'll break by 60k, or earlier. The owners manual is spot-on for timing belt change interval.

The M20 is an interference engine. What this means, is that if/when the timing belt breaks, most of the valves will be hit by the pistons, because the cam will stop turning, but the crankshaft will still be spinning..

Timing belts can snap, and on E30's, are only recommended for a 50k mile lifespan. Normally, they'll break by 60k, or earlier. The owners manual is spot-on for timing belt change interval.

The M20 is an interference engine. What this means, is that if/when the timing belt breaks, most of the valves will be hit by the pistons, because the cam will stop turning, but the crankshaft will still be spinning..

What he said.

If you are insure of it's condition have a pre-purchase inspection done on the car(not a sales pitch, just have it done somewhere or by someone who knows). It will save you headaches and money.

If you are insure of it's condition have a pre-purchase inspection done on the car(not a sales pitch, just have it done somewhere or by someone who knows). It will save you headaches and money.

Or if you're unsure of its condition....

Or if you're unsure of its condition....


Thanks, spelling man.

I have spent more on my e30 since I got it then I have on my M3...

M3 was under warranty for a good while though.


I do love my e30 :)

I have spent more on my e30 since I got it then I have on my M3...

M3 was under warranty for a good while though.


I do love my e30 :)

Well duh, but both cars are now "older" so the caveats apply to both e30 or 36. How much was your M3 vs your e30?

And....you are undertaking a resto/upgrade of your e30. Yellow headlight tint is expensive, we understand.

thanks guys, will look into a PPI. wow both e30 and e36...i can only dream lol

Yellow headlight tint is expensive, we understand.

:rofl

e30 is balling on a budget, there is nothing to be ashamed of