Well guys i just installed these tonight...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-540-540i-E34-93-94-95-BRAKES-ROTORS-PADS-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ016QQitemZ2 60130872487QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V To tell you the truth the rotors seem ok after 20 miles, ha i give em 5-6 months, but MY GOD, these *ucking pads suck major @$$, VERY noisy and they do come w/ shims...i can not waite the toss them out the window when the others arrive, i wish i could use my old OEM pads but they have less than 1mm on the fronts...should i go for OEM pads, any other suggestions from personal use?

u sure u bed those pads in right?

i'm a firm believer in proper bedding after reading a few articles..

when i put my EBC green stuff pads with the Brembo calipers i made sure to bed the pads properly...wow what a difference!! the pads are not even fully touching yet due to the chamfer and they brake a LOT harder than the stock pads

yes i bed them in correctly...at least from 30mph and slowly decel ect.. i have only now put 40 mikles on them but still they are noisy....i honstly think its from the cheap shims

I put OEM rotors and pads on my 525 recently (I'd say 6 months ago) and they just recently stopped squealing during low speed use after they have warmed up. My point being, I don't think 40 miles is enough time to judge a pair of pads or rotors. I believe most manufacturers stipulate a 150 mile break in period.

That being said, I would never trust my life and car to no-name brake parts off eBay. From your sig it looks like you have a pretty nice car. Why cheap out on arguably the most important mechanical part of the car? Isn't it worth the couple extra dollars to get well known, well engineered, and well tested name brand brake products??

Just my .02.

no no no, proper breaking in consists of going up to 60 and breaking HARD! almost locking up the ABS to about 5, 10 mph and then speeding up to 60 and doing it again, keep doing this for about 6 to 8 times...

that will allows the pads and rotors to warm up to operating temperature and the pads to transfer a layer of coating onto the rotors which helps in less squal and better bite

i know i should have purchased better parts but for the time being, i am moving to Jacksonville Florida in less than 2 weeks, 8 days to be exact, and the move is costing a pretty penny...front pads and rotors were shot, brake lining message was on and i figured why not try these for a few months since they are cheap enough and will get me to FL and time needed to adjust. i guessed i would share these with everyone. just spreading the word

no no no, proper breaking in consists of going up to 60 and breaking HARD! almost locking up the ABS to about 5, 10 mph and then speeding up to 60 and doing it again, keep doing this for about 6 to 8 times...

that will allows the pads and rotors to warm up to operating temperature and the pads to transfer a layer of coating onto the rotors which helps in less squal and better bite

:confused:confused

I was raised on a different philosophy....

New pads & rotors need about 30 or so good long slow braking periods so the grooves in the rotors will embed their "print" into the pads, giving the pads just that little bit extra of surface area. The pads wont fail whether or not you do this, but the pads will stop quicker during an emergency brake.

Stopping hard and abruptly will warm up the pads and erase the linked groves between the pads and rotors.

Prove me wrong with proof, but this is what thought to be true for a long time:D

but regardless, your whole brake setup shouldnt shake when new...

:confused:confused

I was raised on a different philosophy....

New pads & rotors need about 30 or so good long slow braking periods so the grooves in the rotors will embed their "print" into the pads, giving the pads just that little bit extra of surface area. The pads wont fail whether or not you do this, but the pads will stop quicker during an emergency brake.

Stopping hard and abruptly will warm up the pads and erase the linked groves between the pads and rotors.

Prove me wrong with proof, but this is what thought to be true for a long time:D

but regardless, your whole brake setup shouldnt shake when new...

same with me...even LTI, the tech school i graduated from said this was the proper brake in method..all my co-workers agree, we are all techs for volvo

which tech school? I always wanted to attend one

same with me...even LTI, the tech school i graduated from said this was the proper brake in method..all my co-workers agree, we are all techs for volvo

Volvo's!

Um S60-AWD-R's. I miss tooling around western Sweden in the crew car that was more or less sans exhaust system. (Well, it did have a tiny little muffler at the back end).
http://users.rcn.com/xmon/s60-2.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/xmon/s60-1.jpg

which tech school? I always wanted to attend one
LTI== Lincoln Technical Institute, Allentown, Penna.

X MON, those are some cool shots, must have been sweet, were those R's they look like T-5's, no big R calipers? maybe the euro's are diff looking, no xenon's or R emblems in the grill....yes i did attend Lincoln Tech, but i went to the Mahwah NJ campus...the school is great if your not familiar with basic systems, but would i pay $20k++ for a 15 month program again....ehhh, although it did get me the job w/ volvo with a snap of my finger, makes it much easier to get a job at a high end dealer