Anyone have any problems with bushings creaking in the front end of their E38? Mine is quiet for a while but starts creaking with miles and temperature. I had the wheels off over the weekend to look at the brakes/suspension. Everything looks in good order and I couldn't find anything terribly obvious. I'm thinking it may be slightly dried bushings in the sway bar. Am going to get some bushing lube and see if that alleviates the problem.

Any other possibilities?

If it happens when your coming to a stop, going over bumps or going up driveways it is probably your steering centerlink to tie rod connection. Does the noise go away after driving on the freeway and your brakes are cooled down? The heat generated by the front brakes makes the connection creak. The fix is to replace Center link and both tie rods. You will also need an alignment.

Does your E38 have about 75k miles? Check out this thread.


http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=592465&highlight=creaking

Here's an image of the parts he's talking about.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/n/v/0.png

You'll notice that on parts 10, 11 and 12, there are ball joints. These ball joints can't be lubricated; they can only be replaced.

You can buy whole front-end kits from this guy, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E38-740-750-Control-Arm-Arms-Kit-10-Piece-Front_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ015QQit emZ250142452975QQtcZphoto

Here is the rest of his store: http://search.stores.ebay.com/FCP-Groton_e38_W0QQfciZ14QQfclZ4QQfsnZFCPQ20GrotonQQfs ooZ2QQfsopZ3QQftsZ2QQsaselZ13397707QQsofpZ0

I got my control arms from him and have been happy so far. Another good store is www.autohausaz.com (http://www.autohausaz.com).

:eek: Mine are in the right rear area. I think I have a control arm going bad. Trying to hold out until fall to replace them.

Thanks for the info. I will pay close attention. It is definitely quieter at the beginning of a drive (car cool) and increases during the course. It creaks anytime the suspension responds to a bump.

The thing that was leading me to think it is a bushing is that there is absolutely no slop or play in the front end. It tracks dead straight, feels solid, and steers precise. When yours started creaking, was there any noticeable difference in handling?

I'm not at 75k yet, but close... 68k

Thanks!

:eek: Mine are in the right rear area. I think I have a control arm going bad. Trying to hold out until fall to replace them.

What you need is here, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E38-750-740-Ball-Joints-Control-Arms-Camber-Struts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ015QQi temZ250142452868QQtcZphoto

I don't think it will hurt anything to wait. I mean, some parts you should replace right away, but aside from the noise and maybe noticeable handling, there's no harm in leaving in those old bushings, at least for now.

Read through the previous string... Will start least expensive and work my way up. The suspension seems tight so I may try disassembling/cleaning/lubing the ball joints. If its a no go, then I'll move to the centerlink and tie rods.

Thanks again.

Read through the previous string... Will start least expensive and work my way up. The suspension seems tight so I may try disassembling/cleaning/lubing the ball joints. If its a no go, then I'll move to the centerlink and tie rods.

Thanks again.

I think you might have missed it in my previous post, but these ball joints can't be lubricated; they must be replaced.

Now, for those of you DIY-ers out there that have lube'd your ball joints before, it's important to point out that there are two kinds of ball joints -- the kind you can lube, and the kind you can't.

In my old Chevy truck, the ball joints had a small nozzle that I plugged a lube gun to and injected grease every 6-months; however, our BMW ball joints are sealed and cannot be lubed.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/arbysnight/Fig%208.JPG

Plik, understood. I'll have to apologize for my choice of words... its late. I read in another thread where one owner had cleaned, lubed and refitted the taper for the joint, not the joint itself. That's a free fix, so its worth it in my book to try.

Plik, understood. I'll have to apologize for my choice of words... its late. I read in another thread where one owner had cleaned, lubed and refitted the taper for the joint, not the joint itself. That's a free fix, so its worth it in my book to try.

Oh, you mean taking the tie rods ends off, cleaning and greasing where they connect, and then putting them back on. That makes more sense. I mean, I still think you should just replace them, but I see what you mean now.

To go through that much trouble to remove them, you might as well spring the extra $30 to just replace them and save yourself from having to do the whole job twice. Here is where you can buy them, http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=qcnqihjzq4bzvp55nzvrlauo&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1368299@740IL&year=2001&cid=26@Steering%20System&gid=7427@Tie%20Rod%20Assembly

Not to mention, any time you remove the tie rod ends, you risk screwing up your alignment. In fact, what I would do is replace the tie rod ends, and then go in to have a professional alignment. But that's just my recommendation.


http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/32211141346.jpg

Dang, they really are only $30 bucks... I guess I thought they were more for some reason. You're right, I think I'll just replace em.

Thanks.

A BMW mechanic told me that you can count the visable threads on the centerlink before removing the tierods. Then if you install your new tierods with the same amount of threads showing your alignment should be close enough to get you to the alignment shop. Keep in mind that if you wait until later to change the centerlink you may have to visit the alignment shop again. Do a search on centerlink and you will find that they are commonly replaced at about your mileage. You may change your mind and decide to do the centerlink and tierods at the same time. Keep us posted.

What you need is here, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E38-750-740-Ball-Joints-Control-Arms-Camber-Struts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ015QQi temZ250142452868QQtcZphoto

I don't think it will hurt anything to wait. I mean, some parts you should replace right away, but aside from the noise and maybe noticeable handling, there's no harm in leaving in those old bushings, at least for now.

Thanks Plik. I think I will order these in preparation of my fall/winter DIYs. Wish me luck. I will post pics of my progress when the time comes.

I hate piece-mealing the suspension together. I can hardly remember now but I think so far I've replaced my center link, front control arms and bushings, and rear upper control arms and bushings. I guess that would theoretically leave the idler arms, tie rods, front support arms and bushings as well as the rear lower control arms and bushings. Damn... thankfully I have no noise yet.

I've had so many problems with shops not being able to find any suspension issues. Diagnosis is probably the most frustrating problem for me so far. Everything is good right now though.