OK... so finally after about 2 months I get my car back from the body shop (very happy with the way it looks now by the way, pics to come). However not happy with the way the clutch is now.

I don't know if the body shop people (i don't know if you can call them mechanics) drove the piss out of it or what after fixing it, but the clutch was in decent shape before dropping it off and now is shot. Any acceleration past 1/4 depression of the accelerator and the rpms shoot up.

Anyways the problem is, i spent alot of money getting it to where its at with the body shop and while i hate having to compromise on the clutch I kinda have to for money reasons, so.... what is the best bang for the buck clutch wise?

I have some minor upgrades on the engine, but plan to do more as soon as money permits, at what Hp output typically does it take to upgrade to a clutch other than the stock setup? As of now i have CAI, chip, exhaust, & a short shift.

im planning on attempting the install myself to save a few extra bucks so if anyone has any helpful hints/suggestions it would really be appriciated.

I'm sure this has been asked before but i kinda wanted some personable feedback, sorry for not searching the forums. Thanks in advance for the help.

--Chris

I have been told that a stock setup with a 6 puck disc is the way to go. Spring loaded disc for less harsher engagement. That shopuld run you $258 for the stock set plus another $150-$200 for the discs. Now some well placed friends and you can drop a tranny and be done.

that would be suffecient to handle any HP upgrades to come? I don't really want to get one and have to turn around a year from now and need another one, hopefully bc of more hp :).

You can find a nice sachs clutch that will work just the same for the car, its just the installation costs that will kill you. But if you can do it yourself; more power to ya!

are there any specialty tools I will need if i do decide to do it my self?

I'm not sure, but I have to do the same thing coming up soon. Let me know what you figure out.

Supposedly it can handle all the horse power with some upgrades. I mean when you get to 450 whp let me know then YOU MAY WANT TO LOOK TO SOMETHING STRONGER. that set up should hold you.

Listen the "bronze" discs will give the car some additional belly/bark/bite. the engagement will be fast and the hotter the clutch gets the better it becomes. The stock pressure plate will give you the soft easy pedal feel and the throwout will ensure stock smoothness of the final actions of shifting. It will hold it. In NYC there used to be a guy that can "bronze" a factory clucth. i.e. he takes the stock set-up and changes it dramatically. for about $200.00 I think he is still around. but that is up here. Look for someone like that in your neck of the woods.

im planning on attempting the install myself to save a few extra bucks so if anyone has any helpful hints/suggestions it would really be appriciated.

--Chris

I feel your pain, having just paid for 4 new tires after a rear blowout on my 540/6 (with the staggered setup - $1500±) only to find that now I've got an oil leak.
I'm pretty sure it's the rear main engine seal, and thought that I would try to save some money by DIY. I've decided against doing it, as I've seen too many 1-2 hour jobs turn into all weekend nightmares after breaking a bolt, or worse. This job is gonna be at least 4-5 hours IF you know what your doing, and IF you've got the tools.
I found a link here, which lists the required parts and tools for a clutch replacement, but after reading it, I think I'm gonna have to buck up the $ and pay a professional. I've been quoted $1300 - $1500 Canadian for the clutch installation and a $65 seal.
Read on:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-95296.html

Let me know if you decide to make a go of it on your back in a garage.
Dropping a tranny while the car is up on jack stands does not seem like a good idea for my comfort level.

You may want to consider replacing that rear main seal while you're at it, as a shop I've spoken to around here recommends it given that everything is right there while the tranny is off, and it's only about 50-60 for the seal related parts.

Good luck, and keep me posted!

thanks for all your help guys . Ill def keep you all posted on the progress once i get started, and once i make the final decision of what to go with.

how important is it that i replace my flywheel also and is there any possiblility of finding a reasonably priced light weight fly wheel?

What all components should i replace along with my clutch. A package/gathering of information has led me to:

Clutch disc
pressure plate
throw out bering
transmition seals
exhaust gaskets
pivot pin
flywheel
release lever
transmition mounts
rear main seal

Is there anything im omitting or probably unnesisarially changing?