I've done a search on this but still need some advice...

So I'm driving to class and start noticing the battery light blinking on once every now and then very randomly and not at equal intervals. Also whenever I came to a stop the word brake and ABS as well as the triangle sign would come on but disappear when I started going. Got to class and when I came back to start the car, it wouldnt, just click, click, click...Got it jumped and same story on the way to Autozone with the warning lights and stuff...got the new battery in and started driving to the mall, this time it was just the red battery light comming on but it flashed a few times every time it would come on and then stop for a while and then start flashing again. Stopped at the mall and then got back in, car starts up fine and not light on the 5 mile drive home untill the last corner when the brake and abs light briefly came on.

Does the car just need to cycle on and off a few times after putting in a new battery for the lights to stop appearing or could there still be a problem.

Also I have 2 12" JL's and a JL monoblock amp which prob contributed to the first battery dying if this helps with diagnosing the prob

Thanks in advance

AutoZone should have checked the alternator function for you. Anyway, the battery light shouldn't be flickering. I don't think it's going to get better with drive cycles. My guess is something else is wrong. That big amp may be sucking out too much power.

My guess is the brake and ABS warning lights are a separate issue from the battery. Not sure waht's going on there, but I'd check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

they wouldnt even help install the battery, said "it is too labor intensive"

Sounds like they were being lazy.

Since I posted earlier, I read a post on the 5 series forum that suggested the problem with the ABS and brake warning lights could be caused by loose battery connections. You might want to check to assure that the battery cable is securely connected.

OK, you had every thing checked out for free at the A-zone, you get what you pay for. While people are loathe to take their expensive vehicles to the dealership, every BMW dealership should have a Midtronics or equivalent battery tester. The Midtronics checks the battery, atlernator, and cranking (CCA) and should give you out a printout. (We can't change out batteries for warranty unless we have a code and printout.) We don't consider changing out batteries as labor intensive, it is what we do. Now the first thing I would check before spending another penny is: all connections you can get to: Obviously the battery, but also all ground lugs. We have seen issues with high amp sound systems and amperage, but mostly the battery drain from using them without the motor running draing the batts down.
Good luck, PT

yes, sounds like you need an alternator. The ABS and brake light are most likely coming on due to undervoltage.

well this morning the car started up just fine and i drove to work, i went down the street for my brake and on the way back the car started acting up again...the brake, abs, and triangle symbol all came on and constently stayed on. also a new symbol came on, is was in the box that shows a "D" when you are in drive and it was a circle that looked like a gear with a ! in the middle Everytime I can to a stop the car would jerk back a little, and then the acceleration lagged on the last mile back to work. turned it off and then walked back out to start it to take it to the dealer down the street, but it wouldnt start, mind you this is with the brand new battery. So i jumped it and drove it there, no warning lights during the 1/2 drive there exept when i put on my indicator, all three of those lights started going off.

So its at BMW now, they are gonna look at it Mon and then probably rape me. I have an extended warrenty thru old republic that covers pretty much everything but i have a sound system which I feel they can say voids the replacment of the alt.

any ideas?

Got a VOM? Check the voltage at the batt terminals. Approx 13.8 running and no less than 11.5 with engine off. The lower voltage should remain fairly constant if the batt is new and holding a charge. If the higher voltage is not near 14, the alternator could be the problem.

so i dropped it off at the dealership, and sent them my old original battery that got charged at Autozone, they called me and said that they cant figure out what is wronge and no error codes are showing up, blah, blah, blah...sadi the car is starting up fine but are stil going to charge me the $125 diagnostic charge, even though they didnt diagnose the problem, its not my fault they couldnt figure it out. Later they call back and said the tech thinks the alternator may need to be replace but isnt sure if that is the problem, turns out my extended warrenty provider said they would cover the alternator replacement but not the diagnostic charge. So im looking at a little under $200 which includes diagnostic charge and deductible for a new alternator and they still are not sure if that will fix the prob. Its a damn BMW Dealership, how they can't figure it out and still think they can charge me is beyond me. So we shall see with the new alt. tomm. If that doesnt work, im going to an independent shop that wont charge me unless they figure out the prob.