This thread will be for my project, e30 m3 S50B32, trying to turbocharge it on a budget.
Hopefully somebody will benefit from the thread.. or maybe people can help out with any issues i'll face..
There are many S50's on this forum that are currently being turbocharged from all around the world..many many many users PM'd me with pics and info etc. when i asked for advice earlier, but asked me not to tell anyone on the forum about them or their projects..I dont understand why though..so im hoping to read & support many many S50 turbo threads ! Keep in mind this will help anyone who wants to do his own project... it's nice to know you are not alone and others are in the same boat...and keeping all the info to yourself is very selfish...


anyways so yesterday i bought two TD04L13T (subaru wrx 1997+) turbos with the downpipes for $450. (good price cuz each is usually $300 locally)
Each is good for ~270bhp @ 60% efficiency, hoping for ~550-600bhp using both.

These are the turbos, sorry for pic quality, took it at night and with the cellphone:

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/9663/image031kd0.jpg



Wideband: LC-1 already installed ($280) [waiting for DB gauge]
Injectors: waiting for 630cc siemens deka injectors to arrive ($380)
Compression: I will lower stock compression(11.3:1) using 2 stock headgaskets + a copper spacer in between them made locally. still have to see required thickness of spacer.. if anybody can help with the calculations that would save me some time figuring it out + i suck at these stuff, engine is 3201cc and stock gasket is 1.74mm (before being compressed i believe ?)

Tuning: There is PowerMod for those with larger budgets; however i will go for the cheaper MegaSquirt now that i have the ECU pinout diagram...using 3 subaru coils ($20 each) + 3 VB921 ignition drivers (very cheap), and run a wasted spark setup. and keep the stock ECU in place to control the VANOS, and replacing the fuel injectors output with resistors, still waiting on my buddies to figure out how to simulate the coils.. so the ECU thinks everything is fine and runs the VANOS normally. worst case scenario i will lock the cam timing for highend and remove the VANOS, since the twin turbos will give full boost around only ~2750rpm anyways. This all should cost around $500-600 i hope.

Intercooling: A knowledgeable friend of mine is advicing to go with a water to air setup, integrated into a short runner custom plenum, using Laminova cores which are extremely efficient, and ill put the radiator instead of the A/C condenser.. the more of a sleeper the better in this project. thoughts ?

Next step is to get the turbo flanges fabricated, hopefully tomorrow, then purchase 2 325i manifolds ($20-$50 each) and modify them and weld the fabricated flanges to them.. im hoping to place the turbos below the cylinder head, like the french S50B30 biturbo with HKS Gt25/40 turbos.. for a sleeper look, with the turbos pointing downward & the piping under the engine going into the water air intercooler/plenum... but we'll see if i run into ground clearance issues...

then i must see how and where to take the oil feed for the turbos, then remove oil pan and tap into it..etc. etc.

anyways that's it for now.. i'll update as the project unfolds... it's going to take alot of time though...
Please post your S50 F/I project threads!!:help


btw do u think i should give the extra effort and run water lines into the 2 turbos ? i guess i can using the upper radiator hose, cut it, put a pipe and weld 4 big nipples pointing downward and take lines for the turbo... what do u think ? worth the effort ? better way to do it ? ideas

this is gonna be awesome, subscribed.

hmm...i would say 550-600rwhp instead of bhp

either way, dayem

this is gonna be awesome, subscribed.
jumpin in on this one.

I am not turboing mine...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/morerevsm3/miscellaneous/Picture581.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/morerevsm3/miscellaneous/Picture586.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/morerevsm3/miscellaneous/Picture587.jpg


for size reference

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/morerevsm3/miscellaneous/Picture588.jpg

yes Alan you told me on msn about your project, but why dont you make your own thread about it like i did and put all the info for reference ? That would be awesome! (and remove the huge pics from MY project thread :P :P) either way best of luck with your project
cheers

hmm...i would say 550-600rwhp instead of bhp

either way, dayem

if i had more money i'd o-ring the block + aftermarket forged low CR pistons + rods + GT40R
and then shoot for such numbers and even more reliably

anyways the car as it currently is, is barely driveable with my tire size.. i can imagine at 550bhp with the lowend itll have itll be making tire marks in directions not intended in ANY gear...
Also this is Lebanon ...550bhp over here.. is like having a 1500bhp overseas..
because most tuned cars here are bimmers and most have tuned m20's and m30's N/A...also 745 turbos as well but nobody builds them up properly, just up with the boost and blow engines, many modded subaru sti's and 350z s/c'd thats about it.. so 550bhp is more than enough for here.. why risk breaking engine/drivetrain parts if 550bhp can do the job more reliably...

ps: this is my only car.. i daily drive it to uni in winter.. ;)

yes Alan you told me on msn about your project, but why dont you make your own thread about it like i did and put all the info for reference ? That would be awesome! (and remove the huge pics from MY project thread :P :P) either way best of luck with your project
cheers

mainly because it will probably be another 2 years before I have bought/made the rest of the parts I need to bolt it all together

Eric, could you give me your current view under a hood (a photography)? I want to compare your free room with mine in E36 M3 S50B30.

I hope my calculations are good. I have never been good in mathematic. If you use two stock head gasket you will get CR=9.5. I think CR=9.0 should be adequate, so a copper spacer should be 0.73mm. As I said I have never been good in mathematic, so better will be if someone else also calculates that.

Thanks for the calculations man, and sure you can write to me anytime!

Today i removed the header's Heatshield and windshield wiper reservoir.
Also i was thinking about removing the A/C condenser & compressor.. depends on how ill do the piping

QUESTION: i noticed this bolt next to the Chain tensioner... i was wondering why it is there.. and if i can use it for the oil feed into the turbos to have clean and short lines. (thanks in advance)

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/IMG_0264.JPG



This is a pic for Maleckis:

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/IMG_0268.JPG




I hope i can get the turbo flanges made on monday and order MS..
However im still very confused about what to do with MS.. either

1- Just yank away the stock wiring harness+ ECU & remove VANOS and lock cams (last thing i want to do)

or

2- Keep stock ECU and try to figure out how to emulate coils for the ECU so it keeps controlling the VANOS normally.. (ECU does need to see coils firing to keep controlling VANOS right ?) <<<< any VANOS experts that can confirm this????

3- Remove stock ECU but keep the dual VANOS, and program and control them with an external controller... sounds complicated to me and i dont trust it

I was just thinking.. how about i leave my stock ECU, and if it must see coils firing for the VANOS control to keep working, can i just ground the coils somewhere ? like under the passenger seat if i want to torture someone i dont like ? hehe j/k, but seriously, that would work right ? where would i be able to ground the coils in a safe way that wont cause fire or electric shock hazards ?

Just got another idea... is there someplace i can send my stock ECU to, and have them reprogram the ECU such that it doesnt require fuel injectors or coils or anything except necessary sensors to operate the vanos ? just like they send their ECU to remove the EWS ? anybody know of a place ? is it even possible ?

by the way, i noticed this wasnt hooked to anything, and it seemed to be sucking in air while the engine is running, im guessing it has to do with the EGR (which is removed) ?

should i close it shut ? does it matter that its open like that ?

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/IMG_0274.JPG

good luck man, sick project

Thank you for the picture, Eric. As I can see in this photography you have much more free room than I have even to fit two turbochargers. There is also a quite big reservoir of room for a top mounted single turbocharger, which could be situated on tubular exhaust manifold. In my E36 M3 S50B30 if I hadn’t removed an air conditioning I wouldn’t have had any chances to fit an exhaust manifold, a turbocharger, a down pipe, etc., in. The down pipe is almost adjacent to the exhaust manifold. We had to cudgel one's brain. If we had moved an engine along a supporting brackets the job would have been easier. We didn’t want to do that. In Sweden guys don’t worry and they do that, but they are damned sick.

I’m interested in your way of tuning very much. I don’t understand how you’re going to do that (stock ECU & MS). Are you going to create individual or even self-contained construction which let you to remain ECU VANOS controlling, aren’t you? Will this construction do anything in practice? How are you going to provide this construction with adequate conditions the same as it has in our engines? Will sensors such as MAF be connected only to MS?

Good luck, Eric.

man im really sorry, i didnt understand the last paragraph you wrote quite well..
MS has a MAP sensor so no need for stock MAF anymore, especially since unplugging the MAF still allows VANOS operation, so we dont need it to let stock ECU still control VANOS.

Yes E30 + S50 has alot more space than the E36, i would have wanted to put a single GT40R turbo top mounted because it is just too easy to fit...however the budget doesnt allow it ...

hehe u definetly need to upgrade that exhaust size now. Lots more room there than the e36 has, and being LHD at least u dont have the issue of the steering column in the way. THe issue of water/air intercooing is interesting. Water has greater specific heat than air (4.2kj/kg.k than 1.2 kj/kg.k) which in theory means u need less heat transfer surface area, but the problem i guess is there are more working parts needed, but for say a supercharged application it can cut down on the intake lenght, but for turbo, u need to cross over from the ehxaust side to the intake side anyway so a front mounted air/air one would make more sence and prob cost alot less

Hey keep us up to date on both projects. Im trying to decide whether or not to go FI. I would like to supercharge it.

I think it's about time i updated the thread, even though nothing interesting is going on.
i havent done much work, been busy acquiring another car to get parts for the bmw while its parked for the project, also finding a proper spot to park the bmw(im fed up working on the car on the streets)
bought a $400 73 volks superbeetle (it's the blue thing in the pic) and found a nice unused space for the bmw under the building

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5273/image000hi6.jpg

Other than that i got the turbo flanges made locally ($15 each)

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2056/image003sg4.jpg

Also i ordered and shipped:

Megasquirt I PCB V3.0 unassembled, with a bunch of other stuff ($360)
(24x12x3 core ebay FMIC)($84 + $140 shipping to Lebanon)
Walbro 255lph inline pump ($140)
Siemens Deka 630cc injectors ($380)
2 MPP electronic exhaust cut-outs. ($220)
Bunch of water injection parts from ebay.

Also i found out there are 4 possible exhaust manfolds to choose from, the front and rear 325 and 328 manifolds, i think ill borrow them and see which to use and cut and get the flanges welded


now that the car is parked, i can start to work on it, and hopefully the parts will arrive by the time the manifold and turbo oil lines are done.

Next update should have the turbos mounted :buttrock

Good luck! Sounds like an awesome project!

Why don't you check my project?I think is better you use only one turbo for less turbo leg.Two turbo means more pipes,more conections and more inches to turbo press gets there.
My car have dyno tested 540 hp,and rides very smooth but powerful.

man the twins only disadvantage is there are more parts that might fail and packaging is harder.
As for turbo lag, it's the opposite, the twin turbos will make boost sooner than a single turbo.
with your single GT35 where do u make 1bar boost ? 3500rpm+ ?
the twins will make 1bar by ~2800rpm maximum

man the twins only disadvantage is there are more parts that might fail and packaging is harder.
As for turbo lag, it's the opposite, the twin turbos will make boost sooner than a single turbo.
with your single GT35 where do u make 1bar boost ? 3500rpm+ ?
the twins will make 1bar by ~2800rpm maximum
Don`t think so.I forgot to explain that my turbo is a ball bearing one,no lag any moment.Really can`t understand why twin turbo,but i respect your opinion.
Good luck and congrats to you.

This is my turbo:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u291/renatoturbo/DSC01007.jpg

Renato i agree with you, i would have preferred to go with a single GT35R for ease of installation; however the price is ~$1400 + shipping to lebanon + customs/taxes
those two turbos cost me a total of $450 including downpipes

so financially the twins are superior to the single GT35 in my case.

as for lag, what do u mean "no lag any moment" ?

if you are in 3rd gear at 1000rpm and go full throttle you instantaneously reach full boost by the time the pedal reaches full throttle ?

when i was researching other M3 turbo setups, the ball-bearing GT35 according to Mr.Blonde was giving full boost (not just spooling) by ~3800rpm if i recall correctly..
i assure you those twins will be superior in the lag domain.

the only disadvantage as i mentioned is that it is definitely more challenging and frustrating to get them to fit taking into consideration the WHOLE system (DP's, turbos outlets, inlets, oil lines wastegates etc.) its a big headache for sure...
but the GT35 will cost me $2000 to get to lebanon and in my hands.

So i'd rather have to scratch my head abit and get frustrated for a couple days instead of paying $1600 more! + more lag.

I removed A/C compressor today, and most of the headers nuts, as soon as i remove the headers i can tell if the twins will fit or not, if not ill sell them and order a single precision turbo or something for ~$900

Renato can you PM me your msn messenger address ? Maleckis & I would like to talk to you if that's possible
cheers

it's taking more time than i expected but it's getting there..
Removed the headers yesterday, 24 nuts, there are like 10 of them that are really hard to reach let alone remove, the last lower one (towards firewall) was the most difficult to remove, i was one second away from getting a die grinder and just cutting it up (if u try to remove it ull see why)

It is up for grabs if anybody is interested PM me:
they are pretty light by the way!
the whole thing weighs 4Kg!


http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/536/image011jq8.jpg

the twins will fit in there, just have to study their placement to find the best spot for piping&downpipe(minimal bends),oil return, and thermal effect on other components.
Til now it appears that behind the lights 1 turbo will fit, and another can fit where the a/c compressor used to be,
tomorrow hopefully the turbos will be mounted on a custom exhaust manifold and intake manifold removed.
cheers

All I can say is good luck!

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image012.jpg

The first turbo is mounted!

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image033.jpg


second turbo will be mounted under this manifold:
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image030.jpg



http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image031.jpg


Today is Saint Mary's holiday and all the shops are closed, can't get anything welded etc. so im having fun cleaning and polishing some parts, hopefully tomorrow the second turbo will be mounted, and friday ill drop the oil pan,
i have all the parts needed, just need to drop the oil pan, and buy oil feed lines yet. Thanks for the goodluck wishes everyone!

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image029.jpg

Awesome project! Good luck!

keep up the good work! can't wait to see it finished!

the custom oil filter housing tap and feed lines, cost only $35 to make :buttrock

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2184/image003jr5.jpg


http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/7375/image006oa8.jpg

This is the most interesting project so far......really cant wait to see this amazing M3 turn into a beast :evil2

Best of luck bro....and hope that ull be able to finish soon........

I'm very curious about your cam-locking-idea.

Mainly i'm just wondering how you think the idle will be? Do you think it will be pretty lumpy, or is the lumpy idle more a result of a sharper/higher valve profile? :confused

Hmm

Removed the oil pan, argon welded 2 custom machined aluminum pipes
it was a nightmare removing the pan, engine should be extremely raised for it to come off, power steering pump must also be removed:

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image007.jpg

the S50 crankshaft has a dark blue color, the S50 looked beautiful from below:

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image010.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/IMG_0296.JPG


Had to raise the engine from the a/c bracket,

Then the FMIC arrived:

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image008.jpg

Both turbos finally mounted with oil return/feed lines
intercooler has been mounted
turbo timer installed
boost gauge installed at bottom of console, for extra stealthiness, with it wired to the fog light switch instead of lights knob.
still have to do the intercooler plumbing and downpipes
I tried starting it with no intake plenum just for kicks, it fired right up, no downpipes installed so it sounded wicked and evil, im trying to get it done running very low boost for a local drift event at a rented track this saturday, so expect some videos soon :buttrock


http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image019.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image034.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image037.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image038.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image039.jpg

You are so lucky to have the skills to work on your car like this. I wish i could.

so i couldnt make it to the track event because the oil filter housing suddenly decided to enormously leak, so weird.. i overtightened the nuts abit and it stopped leaking.. it never leaked from there before!

I was told that the OEM rubber bend will pop out @ 4psi so it had to go, keeping it 3.5" of course:

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image003.jpg
It wasnt cheap making that :( but it had to be done, plus itll make my plumbing less of a nightmare..

Still have to do the IC --> manifold plumbing, 3.5" in that space is so hard to fit, even with the power steering fluid reservoir relocated. already spent ~$250 on plumbing that i wont be using

Also i've made the downpipes, other than that i let it idle for an hour checking everything.. seems ok

this is a sound clip i took, sounds like something escaped a jungle and is living in the engine :evil2

www.geocities.com/lte112/Record001.MP3 (http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Record001.MP3)

any blow off valves coming soon? great thread, wish i could do this to my 328.

Nice project you have here. Its also nice of you to keep everyone updated as to what you are doing and how you are doing it.

My first attempt at piping, just wanted to drive it boosted for abit since i already had the flexible type of piping,
1 turbos wastegate attached, and 3psi at the gauge and it exploded into 2 pieces:
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image0006.jpg

That put a grin on my face, i dont know whats the deal with breaking parts, cant wait to break my first differential :stickoutt

so i bought some industrial type pipes and some stainless steel 304 90' bends..
the piping was a complete nightmare because it is 3.5"
The piping is 2" from each turbo, then go into a 3" pipe, into the IC, exit the IC and immediately become 3.5" all the way into the plenum.


i will refine the piping to welded up stainless steel bends later

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image0007.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/Image0010.jpg

i hooked up 1 turbo's wastegate, it boosted ~6psi for a couple 1st and 2nd gear WOTs around the block, it was pretty crazy in 2nd gear, boost comes on, rearend immediately kicks out...it wasnt as progressive and smooth as stock was, very sudden and i was pretty surprised in 2nd gear from the torque and felt it was abit hard to control.. i dunno yet how the driving will be, i guess it will take some getting used to :embarrasm

next is to install the wideband bung and i might do a hobbs switch + extra injector temporarily,
Cheers!

Nice!

Post some videos when this project finish!

awesome car, can't wait to see vids.

this is impressive . can't believe i never saw this thread before

wow...interested in seeing how this turns out.

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/stuff.jpg

Got the rest of the goodies:
2x 3" electronic exhaust cut-outs
walbro 255lph inline pump
water injection parts
MS I V3.0 EFI unassembled kit
6x 630cc/min siemens deka injectors
Red DB-gauge for innovate LC-1

I installed the gauge, AFRs with STOCK ECU, STOCK Injectors, stock everything, @ 2psi of boost is ~12.5:1 if anybody is interested to know. So apparently stock ecu can handle a couple lbs of boost !

I already assembled the megasquirt and tested it, it took 2 nights of working. It was my first attempt at soldering an electronic circuit, but i found it very easy and went smooth, i had thought it was going to be very hard since im not good with electronics but you get the hang of it right away.

http://www.geocities.com/lte112/ms.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/lte112/ms1.jpg

I still have to make the wiring harness, & tune the MS, i will control only fueling right now and leave MS with the stock MSS50 ECU and run ~5psi , until i get the hang of tuning with MS. Then i will order a clutch/pressure plate and lower the engine's compression to 8.5:1 somehow... (most probably a spacer if thatll work). Then i'll see if the VANOS can remain functional with MS controlling ignition by tricking the stock ECU, or else ill remove stock ECU and lock the vanos and run 1bar of boost. This might be my last update for a long time since uni starts next week and i wont have much free time + the bmw is my daily driver.
Cheers!
Eric

Btw does anybody know if the S50B32 has a hall or VR sensor (variable reluctor) that picks up the RPMs ?
The M52 has a hall sensor, the M50 has a VR sensor, but i couldn't find online what the S50B32 has :/
This would really help me out.. thanks in advance.

wow this is an amazing project, next time i'm in beirut i would love to see this in person

sickk project...bump for more info

sorry guys not much been going on at all since summer is over :( waiting for xmas vacation

recorded a tiny video couple weeks ago i guess ill post the link maybe u'll find it interesting
~4psi from the topmounted turbo, 12:1 AFRs: www.geocities.com/lte112/marrkz.wmv (http://www.geocities.com/lte112/marrkz.wmv)

sick, cant wait to see more!

I have heard stock compression can handle 8~10 psi no problem on the S50B32.

mmm on paper it seems that 8psi approaches the limit..
i'm thinking about a vac motorsports 0.140" MLS gasket,
i think it should lower the CR to 9.5:1 allowing for a 13psi limit

somebody correct me if im wrong please

hmm, I have run calculations, even if you only run 8psi you will have 500hp How much more do you need (want is another story).

Wow. OP, nice! Best of luck.

thank you, great bunch of guys in bfc, very wishful of luck and supportive.

not sure if there is any "specific boost limit" for the s50b32, it really comes down to tuning. U can have a 5psi poor tuned FI setup do more damage than a well tuned 10psi. 8psi should work, make good power and if tuned well, give reasonable engine life. I think alan (morerevsm3) is looking about this level of boost for his twin screw setup

the thicker head gasket shim to lower compression has merit, but it could become a weak point and its probably better to consider lower compression pistons, especially if power levels skyrocket. it may pay to look at ppl who have done similar before, most notably PPF in sweeden (not twin turbo thou).........ehhe sertanly dont seek advice from that mert bloke in turkey.

haha kind of seeing errors in the mertology if you run calculations on stated info.

Im still in for those headers!!!

this setup reminds me a lot of mine....
I was able to keep both headlights and abs. I had to get rid of AC and washing fluid...

http://www.slowdowntogofast.com/host/upload/IMG_1180.JPG
http://www.slowdowntogofast.com/host/upload/IMG_1183.JPG

here are a couple more...

http://www.slowdowntogofast.com/host/upload/IMG_1140.JPG
http://www.slowdowntogofast.com/host/upload/IMG_1173.JPG

And one more with the heat shields on...

http://www.slowdowntogofast.com/host/upload/IMG_1189.JPG

^^^ You people are sick!! :eek:

^^^ You people are sick!! :eek:
amen, but i really wanna see the euro tt run!!!:buttrock

TTe30m3: awesome, thanks for the pics. :buttrock
M3Rob95: i haven't forgotten about the headers, when i get a shipping quote i'll PM you right away. (midterms atm so i've got no time to spare honestly as i told you)

I hear ya brother!

Just spent $800 on parts :eek:

Stuff adds up quick!

LMK thanks again

Well thats cool.

whats the status of this project?

eric dont forget about your thread!!! and what about the hall or vr sensor...need to know for my engine management order

eric dont forget about your thread!!! and what about the hall or vr sensor...need to know for my engine management order
camshaft sensors are hall effect. crankshaft sensor / rpm signal is VR from what I know. i marked VR and 60-2 in my piggyback and it shows rpms correctly.

Eric doesn't have time to write in his thread because he drives all the time. I have been forcing him to assembly the Megasquirt for few months and no result! :nono

I really like the project! I have a few comments from my turbo charging experience with my FD RX7.

First if you were going to lock the VANOS into any position I would make it the lower profile to remain very driveable around town, keep your idle and help spool the turbo. Once the turbo spools you can control your high end power with the amount of boost you run. NA engines need the change in CAM profile to generate upper RPM power, and maintain low rpm torque. The turbo changes things significantly and that high rpm power is no longer hard to come by.

In my experience with the charge piping, and I know this is a little late. You can make SIGNIFICANT power with just 2.75" piping. I am making 500rwhp with 2.75" charge piping and it is far from my bottle neck. If you need to neck it up to 3.5" at the HFM, then you still save the hassle of trying to fit the 3.5" all the way to that point. How hard is it to go to a MAP sensor instead of an HFM? We use Motec on most of the cars running turbo out of our shop so we dont have the problem of having to keep the HFM.

To run more boost on the stock compression use water injection. It cools and controls the flame front in the combustion chamber to prevent detonation. Aquamist makes a lot of nice setups and they are out of England. www.aquamist.uk I have their HFS-5 setup and it works wonderfully. Their customer service is also amazing.

After using water injection on my car with a lot of success, I removed the intercooler, and now I run with just the water/alcohol injection. That is long discussion but my setup has been successful and inspired others to pursue the same setup. Many have had success.

But if I was you and running high compression, in high revs, with VANOS and boost, I would throw a water injection kit on there to safegard against detonation. It is proven and can be done for cheap. I know I would like to have the piece of mind.

Best of luck!

Twin turbo is the way to go :D ...

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/desperodoz/BMW/twins50b32.jpg

Twin turbo is the way to go :D ...

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/desperodoz/BMW/twins50b32.jpg


Do you have more information.. pictures.

Looks like my setup!

How well does that canister manifold work?

Thought i'd update the thread:

The stock siemens DME adaptation is killing me. It all started almost 2months after the F/I install. It adapted and leaned out the mixture to mid 13:1-14:1. Also anything over 2psi and it wont let me rev more than ~5500rpm. (AFRs jump to 17:1)

The good thing is that this motivated me to start the MS installation sooner. The MS is already reading RPM,TPS,MAP,WBo2, correctly. So i've been doing a fair share of datalogging.

Over-all it was very easy to install.The only major issue i ran into was the rpm signal being incredibly frustrating to get right because of noise at high rpms; if you're interested in this issue check the thread i made in the F/I forum. The solution is in the last post i made, page2.

Easter vacation(4days) starts tomorrow, so the plan is to install the 60#'ers with 3.0bar FPR, and let MS control fueling. I'm eager to see the DME's reaction when it finds resistors in place of the injectors. :eyecrazy
Also eager to see how it'll run with 5-6psi from both turbos, and a tuned AFR. :buttrock

How well does that canister manifold work?

I have no idea how efficient it is, haven't done any Dyno runs, but the car is running reliable for me. No problems.. Yet at least.

BTW I had mine done with some additional support and welds to the ends.

Sorry for the off-topic.

Thought i'd update the thread:

The stock siemens DME adaptation is killing me. It all started almost 2months after the F/I install. It adapted and leaned out the mixture to mid 13:1-14:1. Also anything over 2psi and it wont let me rev more than ~5500rpm. (AFRs jump to 17:1)

The good thing is that this motivated me to start the MS installation sooner. The MS is already reading RPM,TPS,MAP,WBo2, correctly. So i've been doing a fair share of datalogging.

Over-all it was very easy to install.The only major issue i ran into was the rpm signal being incredibly frustrating to get right because of noise at high rpms; if you're interested in this issue check the thread i made in the F/I forum. The solution is in the last post i made, page2.

Easter vacation(4days) starts tomorrow, so the plan is to install the 60#'ers with 3.0bar FPR, and let MS control fueling. I'm eager to see the DME's reaction when it finds resistors in place of the injectors. :eyecrazy
Also eager to see how it'll run with 5-6psi from both turbos, and a tuned AFR. :buttrock

What MAF are you using? Stock or the Porsche 993 Turbo one?

He uses MAP sensor instead of MAF sensor.

ok