View Full Version : Replacing selector shaft seal


Greg323i
06-16-2007, 10:03 PM
I found that I had to replace my guibo and decided to change my output seal and selector seal (recommended by the parts guy when I priced the other two) at the same time. While I was under there I discovered that my centre support bearing is shot and I need to get a new one, so I have to wait until Monday to pick that up.

Does anyone know exactly how to remove the selector seal with the gearbox in the car? I can't really get a puller in there and I tried prying it out with a screwdriver but that's only screwed it up more. Madhatter wrote about replacing it in a couple of threads but didn't really go into detail.

Another thing, does anyone know what size the nut is holding the output flange to the shaft? I don't want to go out and start buying sockets that I don't need to find the one that I do. And, if someone knows the best way to remove the nut lock, that would be great.

Thanks!

Stück
06-16-2007, 10:14 PM
Should be a thinwall 30mm socket for the output shaft nut.

As for pulling the seal out I always insert a flathead across the seal and pry up on it, working my way around and taking great care not to scar the aluminum bore it resides in. You don't need to distort the metal seal frame very much before it just pops out.

Madhatter
06-16-2007, 10:49 PM
Use a pick set, can pick them up for about $30. You really need to drop the CSB and move the prop shaft out of the way. Then all you do is knock the pin out of the rod joint so you can move the selector and detach it from the linkage.

Should have enough room to get at the seal, its just a small radial type, use the hook type pick and you should be able to catch the rubber with the point and pull it out. Spray some WD40 or similar into the area as it makes it a little easier.

When putting it back in, lash some grease around the back of the seal and push it in over the rod with a piece of pipe, i find the other end of a broom handle about the right diameter.

waferman
06-16-2007, 11:54 PM
I agree with the Hatter- you need to use a fine pick, cheapass will do here. I bought some pvc pipe the same diameter and drove the new one in with that. ON a side note, when I tried to take out the seal in my 4speed and drove it in by accident, the garage that took off my output flange nut for me told me that it would be ok to drive it in a bit further and put the new one in. It worked for the 2 years I owned it afterwards, but it isnt the right way to do it...

The 30mm deep thin wall socket is special order, you can get it from Bavarian Autosport. I ran into the problem where my 4sp AND later my 5sp was put on with red locktight and required heat to break them loose.

Good luck!
John

Madhatter
06-17-2007, 03:25 AM
Should be able to pickup a thin walled 30mm socket from most tool suppliers (given he's in aus, would suck to import one from bav auto). Just keep in mind that you might break the socket using impact tools so dont go spending a whole heap of money on a top of the range brand.

Yeah, loctite is a bit extreme, if they want thread locker the blue stuff would have been better, thats not quite a permanent solution :)

Greg323i
06-17-2007, 10:58 AM
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Hatter: Yeah, I pulled the CSB when I found out it was toast. I'm hoping that Imparts has one that I can pick up tomorrow. Dealer wants $130 or so for it.

Madhatter
06-17-2007, 06:51 PM
dont know if imparts will be much cheaper :(

Greg323i
06-18-2007, 02:57 AM
$44 at Imparts, I'm stoked. They charged $61 for the guibo when the dealer wanted over $150. I won't be able to do the work until tomorrow though.

Greg323i
06-20-2007, 11:28 AM
Well, that's finally done. I had to finish it in the rain, but it was off and on so I'm thankful for that.

Those picks are sharp, stabbed myself twice. My Haynes said nothing about the preload for the centre support bearing, but I remember reading somewhere that it should be pulled forward 2mm to 4mm so that's what I did.

I discovered that the centering sleeve in the end of the driveshaft was cracked and falling apart so I pulled out the pieces in preparation for a new one. I then found out this is not a common part and no one had one. I improvised a short length of 5/8" heater hose in there, it was perfect.

My test drive was great, she's running smoother than she's run in a while. Thanks to everyone's suggestions and help, it really is appreciated.