View Full Version : Seperating control arm from stub axle carrier.


Wreckanic
06-15-2007, 11:06 PM
Hi all,

I've searched for this with no joy. I'm trying to replace the control arm mounting bushes on my 1980 323i and it seems to me that to get the arms off the car I have to seperate the control arm from the stub axle carrier. These components appear to be an interference fit. I gave them an experimental whack or two with a soft faced hammer but they did not budge. I have a (not 100% helpfull) Haynes manual that tells me to use BMW special tool 311100 to press thecontrol arm out of the axle carrier or, if that is not available, to bodge up something with an engineers clamp to do the same job.

Does anybody here have any good tips/stories about seperating these bits? Am I missing something really obvious?

kdanielson
06-15-2007, 11:23 PM
If you are just trying to remove the rear control arm to replace the bushings just unbolt the axle half shaft from the stub shaft at the CV joint and remove the control arm/stub axle/rear brake as a unit. The stub axle bearing carrier does NOT seperate from the control arm.

ken

jrcook320
06-15-2007, 11:56 PM
I think he's talking about the front control arms and he's calling the strut assembly/stub axle the stub axle carrier.

Heat the area of the stub axle up with a torch to expand it, thread a junk nut onto the control arm ball joint stud and beat the ever livin piss out of it with a hand sledge or heavy hammer till it separates. It is very, very difficult to get apart as they swedge together when the nut is tightened.

kdanielson
06-16-2007, 12:18 AM
Oh, the front ball joint? I just use a ball joint "pickle fork" and a larger hammer then replace the torn rubber grease seal with a new urethane seal.

ken

Wreckanic
06-16-2007, 12:24 AM
I think he's talking about the front control arms and he's calling the strut assembly/stub axle the stub axle carrier.

Yeah that's the one. Sorry I didn't make that clear.

Heat the area of the stub axle up with a torch to expand it, thread a junk nut onto the control arm ball joint stud and beat the ever livin piss out of it with a hand sledge or heavy hammer till it separates. It is very, very difficult to get apart as they swedge together when the nut is tightened.

Heat it up! I never even thought of that. I'll have to see if I can scrounge a torch from somewhere. Cheers.

Wreckanic
06-16-2007, 12:27 AM
Oh, the front ball joint? I just use a ball joint "pickle fork" and a larger hammer then replace the torn rubber grease seal with a new urethane seal.

That reminds me, thank you. I'm going to need new seals and dust covers. Are these sort of things available in suitable quality aftermarket, or am I going to have to go OEM?

UberNoob
06-16-2007, 03:53 AM
http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/graphics/article_images/930200340118_rpbj5.jpg

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/otc-7266.jpg

kdanielson
06-16-2007, 04:51 PM
I've had no problem getting new urethane dust seals for the tie rods and ball joints. They are only a couple bucks ea. I think they are Energy Suspension brand, don't know if they sell them down there or not.

ken

E21FZRNU
06-25-2007, 07:57 PM
You are definitely Ubernoob dude, that really helped me out, Rock on!