THis was going to be a family project but I had to take my car in to get the install done because I got in a car accident. So,

I'm not with the car now but my mechanic has it installed and he said it rips. But, the car will hang at around 2K RPMS. He cleaned out the ICV, but it was ideling just fine. Anytime that you give it gas the revs hang. I called AA and they wanted me to check to make sure the throttle cable was seated properly around the cam. It was. No slack in the throttle cable.

I wasn't aware of this but he told me there is a something that works in conjunction/ and against the throttle to bring the throttle back closed. Anybody heard of this? He thinks that part might be bad or was damaged in the install. Anyone have a pic or a part number, Or any ideas to try?

thanks!

THis was going to be a family project but I had to take my car in to get the install done because I got in a car accident. So,

I'm not with the car now but my mechanic has it installed and he said it rips. But, the car will hang at around 2K RPMS. He cleaned out the ICV, but it was ideling just fine. Anytime that you give it gas the revs hang. I called AA and they wanted me to check to make sure the throttle cable was seated properly around the cam. It was. No slack in the throttle cable.

I wasn't aware of this but he told me there is a something that works in conjunction/ and against the throttle to bring the throttle back closed. Anybody heard of this? He thinks that part might be bad or was damaged in the install. Anyone have a pic or a part number, Or any ideas to try?

thanks!


He is talking about the springs where the throttle cables mount. Make sure they are lubed. Have the guy remove the tube and physically look at the throttle plate and its action. Then check your fuel trims at idle, you may have a vac leak.

JMC

He is talking about the springs where the throttle cables mount. Make sure they are lubed. Have the guy remove the tube and physically look at the throttle plate and its action. Then check your fuel trims at idle, you may have a vac leak.

JMC

I'll talk to him about the springs. I also asked him about a vacuum leak and he said no way - everything has been secured. Do you think that is absolutely the problem? Could there be anything else that I could talk to him about? I want to take this thing fo a ride!!

It most likely the throttle plate being stuck open or maladjusted. When I was adjusting my throttle cable after the TS install, If the throttle plate is left open even a little the idle rises. Next Is the ICV. He has to check everything he installed, he must have caused this during the install.

JMC

It most likely the throttle plate being stuck open or maladjusted. When I was adjusting my throttle cable after the TS install, If the throttle plate is left open even a little the idle rises. Next Is the ICV. He has to check everything he installed, he must have caused this during the install.

JMC

Yes, no doubt about that. I'll go down tomorrow to see if I can help him sort this out.

I'll talk to him about the springs. I also asked him about a vacuum leak and he said no way - everything has been secured. Do you think that is absolutely the problem? Could there be anything else that I could talk to him about? I want to take this thing fo a ride!!

During a tech session at Schneller.com in the Boston area, the tech there showed us a trick: You can determine if there's a "vaccuum" leak somewhere by removing the oil filler cap after the engine has finished warming up and has the idling stabilized. Once you remove the oil filler cap, the engine should start to stumble/hunt for the correct idle once again. If it doesn't, then the computer has already compensated for a vaccuum leak elsewhere.

I don't know if this is "correct" in anyway. ALSO, I don't know if this is applicable to FI cars. Having said that, my AASC'ed car does NOT stumble after removing the oil filler cap. I've asked "resistM3" to try this as well, but have not heard from him yet.

Now, having said that, my car sometimes "hangs" also - making it seem like I have cruise control or something. Blipping the engine drops the RPMs back. The throttle cable/spring is perfectly fine. I even cleaned out the throttle body. Upon inspection of the engine, one of the hoses (the smaller one) seem to get filled/condensed with oil from the breather hose. Cleaning this hose seems to have fixed the issue - only to return when the hose condenses again. I have not been able to determine if this is a weather related issue yet or not (I just haven't had the time). I have not had the time to check the air/oil separator yet either.

During a tech session at Schneller.com in the Boston area, the tech there showed us a trick: You can determine if there's a "vaccuum" leak somewhere by removing the oil filler cap after the engine has finished warming up and has the idling stabilized. Once you remove the oil filler cap, the engine should start to stumble/hunt for the correct idle once again. If it doesn't, then the computer has already compensated for a vaccuum leak elsewhere.

I don't know if this is "correct" in anyway. ALSO, I don't know if this is applicable to FI cars. Having said that, my AASC'ed car does NOT stumble after removing the oil filler cap. I've asked "resistM3" to try this as well, but have not heard from him yet.

Now, having said that, my car sometimes "hangs" also - making it seem like I have cruise control or something. Blipping the engine drops the RPMs back. The throttle cable/spring is perfectly fine. I even cleaned out the throttle body. Upon inspection of the engine, one of the hoses (the smaller one) seem to get filled/condensed with oil from the breather hose. Cleaning this hose seems to have fixed the issue - only to return when the hose condenses again. I have not been able to determine if this is a weather related issue yet or not (I just haven't had the time). I have not had the time to check the air/oil separator yet either.

I can vouch for that. When I inadvertently left the oil cap off a little while ago, the engine started hunting like crazy at idle. At first I though something was terribly wrong, but when I opened the hood and saw the oil cap sitting there next to where it belonged, I put it back on, and the engine smoothed right back out again. What I didnt know is that if it had remained smooth with the cap off, that would have meant I had a vacuum leak elsewhere.. Thanks for the tip.

Great tips from M3armand Paul e - thank you both!!

Also, check the easy things. is your floor mat pushing against your gas pedel at all? I know it sounds random but it happened to me once...

Pull back on the pedal with your foot or your hand and see if the idle comes back down.

Also, check the easy things. is your floor mat pushing against your gas pedel at all? I know it sounds random but it happened to me once...

Pull back on the pedal with your foot or your hand and see if the idle comes back down.


Funny, but I could see that happening.

Great tips from M3armand Paul e - thank you both!!

Please post your results here also once you find out what's wrong with your car.

Funny, but I could see that happening.

When I first built my supercharger setup a year+ ago, I had that very problem. Driving down road traffic light, car idling like 1800 rpm. WTF! Thinking about massive vacuum leak or something. Floor mat :)

Well, I just picked the car up. First thing I checked was the floor mat - that would have been to easy! So my mechanic wanted me to take the car home and drive it for 30 minutes straight to let the computer re calibrate. I didn't mention this before but in addition to hanging the car will also die. So I'm stumped. The car pulls wildly fast! I didn't spin it out because it's new but it pulls with such authority.

So on the ride home Revs would get hung at 2500-3K when I would stop. I would try to put it in first and slowly let the clutch out to make the revs dive - and that wasn't very successful, the motor would really fight to keep the revs up, as opposed to just ideling down or stalling out.

I'll take the oil cap off later - I got into a car accident so just lifting the hood is an excursion!

Here's what I didn't mention. I've got the AA C-38 kit but I've also got the Conforti Programer, Shrick Plenum, and Turner Headers. The C-38, plenum and headers just went on at the same time. That's not enough to throw my tune off is it? Do I need to go back to the stock program and remove the shark?

Edit: when he was under the hood and grabbed the throttle cable at the throttle body the inner cable would go slack . Should that get sucked back into the throttle cable housing? (I hope I described that well)

...motor would really fight to keep the revs up, as opposed to just ideling down or stalling out.

Regarding the motor "fighting" to keep the revs up... you most likely do NOT have a vaccuum leak. You got bigger problems. When my idling gets "stuck", blipping the throttle pretty much makes the rpms drop.

Regarding the motor "fighting" to keep the revs up... you most likely do NOT have a vaccuum leak. You got bigger problems. When my idling gets "stuck", blipping the throttle pretty much makes the rpms drop.


Yes that has been my experience also.

Edit: You think ideling the car for a while might help?

No - go check out the hose I pointed out to you in the picture.

No - go check out the hose I pointed out to you in the picture.


Be back in 5

Where does the wire come from? I'm not seeing it. Crap, I've only got 1.29 Mb of images attached and it's saying I'm over my quota. How can I remove some of my old image?

Scratch: Here you go:

Somebody help! :)

Weird, this is happpening on a car I know..replaced the cam sensors, crank sensors, new software from AA, and also the O2 sensor. I cleaned the ICV as well. The weirdest thing is at the shop, the car was perfect i tested it more than once, left it idling,..but on the way home the customer complained of the EXACT same symptoms. Im going to check on the car tomrrow, and replace the ICV, check all throttle linkage and the plate as well. Ill post back with an update, good luck in the mean time.

for the record, this car is OBD1 3.2 in 96 328is.

so your not using AA software?

a bpv STUCK CLOSED?

a bpv STUCK CLOSED?


What is BPV?

so your not using AA software?

I thumbed thru the box, but I don't remember seeing a software flash - did I miss it?

i dont know i have a obd2 '97. im reflashed

you bypass valve could be bad???? when your heavy on the gas and you shift do you hear a slight pssssss????

I'll have to go check. I haven't had enough time on the car yet. Can you ID that for me in the pic above?

its on the intake tube (underneath)of the S/C and it connects to the boosted tube before th TB hook up by two 3/4"hoses and a 1/4" on top. it bypasses unused pressure back into the S/C. it might be hook up backwards or NFG. i take it you dont have a boost gauge?

Okay, so I'm thinking 'software.' Did it come with software, I don't remember any software. Surely it comes with software. So, I'm digging thru my box of uninstalled parts. I find the packing list and sure enough line item 22 says E Prom 'send back to AA to be flashed.' Hmm, now I'm going to take some of the blame here but:

1) When you spend 4K for something don't you expect explicit instructions?
2) Perhaps directions on how to locate and remove the e prom
3) Maybe, if they're really good a pre-paid postage box?
4) Maybe a disclaimer to help you prepare for the installation?

Well, does anyone know how this process works? I guess I owe several of you a big THANKS! for your ideas. I'm assuming that the install is complete now. Just have to get the parts back to AA - Now seems like a good time to upgrade to the stage II kit - YES!

What is BPV?

its a bypass valve that prevents boost surging. you could be pressurizing the TB, if its always closed.

Also should you not have an AA tune?

I find the packing list and sure enough line item 22 says E Prom 'send back to AA to be flashed.'


If its a "flash", you need to send the whole DME back to AA. Make sure put it in an anti static bag and dont pad the box with something that creates static like styrofoam peanuts....

Also stage 2, i believe is not just the software but hardware changes....

i believe you have to send your dme(ecu) to AA to be flashed. i guess i should known when you said you a shark...................

Be back in 5

Where does the wire come from? I'm not seeing it. :


In post #6, there's is a "red pen" pointing the small hose out in the attached picture. In your pics, this hose is somewhat on top of the oil filter location. The 2 hoses, big and small, come out of the valve cover area. I cleaned the smaller one.

Hope it helps!