I know the plastic ends are prone to breaking around 40-50K. If I wasn't going to do DE's, I would forego this; but, since I am, would you recommend just replacing it?

What is the lifespan of the radiator???

I know a couple places are selling aluminum radiators, I believe fluidyne, RMS ($899.00) and AA ($1950.00). I'm not sure how much fluidyne costs; but, anyone else have a source for aluminum radiators???

Should I just replace ALL of the hoses before this season??? If so, does someone have the p/n for the parts that I would need?

I've done the suspension this winter, RTAB's, control arms, camber plates, etc. I'm turning to internals now -- is there anything that I should be particular to look at??

Water pump has approximately 34K on it as well (metal one), thermostat is relatively new (5K). I've ran UV dye through my coolant, no pinhole leaks; but, since everything has 34K, is there anything I need to replace?

Originally posted by NoSoup4U
I know the plastic ends are prone to breaking around 40-50K. If I wasn't going to do DE's, I would forego this; but, since I am, would you recommend just replacing it?

What is the lifespan of the radiator???

...



40k to 50k miles sounds a little low. My plastic end tank radiators have lasted 100k to 200k miles including LOTS of driving schools and autocrosses. I think you could hold off another year or two. Have you or anyone you know had any personaly experience otherwise?


Ed

Rumor has it that newer M3's have a metal sleeve inside plastic hose fittings. I recently changed my hoses but did not see any metal sleeves on my 99.

New radiators from Bimmerparts.com are ~$130, so you can buy alot of OE's for the price of an aluminum radiator.

That said, check this one out(all I know is what you see):

http://absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=53

I'd buy that thing just b/c it looks so damn good. But, I'm all about the BlInG. ;)

Hehehe....that one is CHEAP in comparison. You could buy like 4 of those for the price of this one...well, about 3 and a half then.

http://www.aatuning.com/cooling/RacingAluminumRadiator.asp

I wouldn't worry 'bout it too much, as long as you have a metal water pump your cooling system shouldn't crap out on 'ya during a DE....just monitor your coolant level between sessions during the summer months...I always bring extra to the track with me just in case.....I'll be at Summit Point from 2/28 - 3/2...see if you can make it out...It'll be my first time out this season so I'm looking forward to it:clap: !

Sunir

Absolute Radiator, are those the guys who supplied the radiator for the ec project M3?

Sorry to revive a dead issue but I have some new information to share with you guys, and I wanted to get your opinions. (I also posted similar question to f/i guys).

a) The fluidyne radiator (if anyone cares) is not going to be ready until 6/1/2003 at the EARLIEST and list price will be around $689.00 (give or take $50.00). This is the one that says it will flow 25% more than stock.

b) This is the information I've found in researching (correct me if I'm wrong).

The stock radiator is manufactured by Behr of Germany. The OE unit's core is 42 mm thick. It is a one row radiator with plastic tanks. :confused: There is a company, I forget the website, oh yeah, absolute radiator that sells an ALL-aluminum radiator.

Absolute's radiator's unit core is 55 mm thick and is two rows. Thus, it would seem logical that you have more liquid volume and you have a better heat transfer. :dunno

OE radiators cost around $140-160 (let's approximate). The aluminum radiator from this place costs $455.00 plus shipping.

http://www.absoluteradiator.com/ProductPage.asp?idProd=53

1) is it worth it just for 25% increase in cooling efficiency, especially for our vehicles?

2) will this radiator outlast an OE by a large factor?

3) Is this radiator more reliable than OE???

Thoughts and opinions?? My money is better spent elsewhere?

James-

My 99 M3 has 47k miles and I'm figuring on replacing just about everything in the next month or two for the same reasons you are. A coworker of mine had the radiator replaced in his 540 after the plastic neck broke with an all metal non-high-performance model. I'm pretty sure I want to go the extra bit to get a real, all-metal radiator, but I don't need polishing nor extra cooling capacity for my mainly stock car. I'd pay maybe twice the OEM price to avoid an underhood disaster, but $455 is tough. Thanks for the research, and I'll let you know as I find things out.