Has anyone pulled out the H11 bulbs in the fog lights???

What is the trick? How does one access them? Through the wheel well? Does the vehicle have to be lifted? front bumper removed???

any insight would be great!

thanks

I haven't done it yet myself, but it looks very easy (per my service manual).
Directly in front of the tire you will see a small access panel (looks like there is one on top for the headlights and a smaller one on the bottom for the fog lamps), unlock the two fasteners by turning then 180 degrees counter clockwise and swing the cover towards the center of the car (towards the motor).
Then you can either remove the complete light assembley by removing the screws or to just replace the bulb all you need to do is rotate the blub holder counter clockwise to unlock it and pull it away from the holder.
Remember, do not touch the new bulb with your bare hand, you must always use golves or a rag or the oils on your hand will cause the bulb to burn out...
If you are replacing the complete assembley you may need to re-adjust it once you are done, the adjustment screws can be found by looking at the fog lamp from the front of the car, you will see two crews.

Do you have a camera to do a DIY??

Bill

THANKS BILL...

I do have a camera, and I'll gladly do a DIY with pics... i'll try to get them up sometime this week.

also...

since you seem to be the man with most all the answers for me, do you know where the adjustment screws are for headlamp assembly? want to adjust UP ever so slightly. did this on my MB and just a degree or two makes a HUGE improvement without blinding oncomming traffic.

if you search diy's etc. a lot of threads say that you need to remove the wheels to get to them, but i found that this is not the case at all... i'm not a small guy and i managed to get them both swaped out in the space of 10 minutes not really even having any instruction. if you can get a hold of a "wide blade short-handled" slot screw driver it will make your life a little easier when trying to remove the covers inside the wheel well.

i'd put this as a .5 on a scale of 1-10 as far as difficulty.

:buttrock

Non Xenon's- open hood and about 10" from the inside edge of the hood opening at the front you will see two adjustment screws, the one that is about an 1" inside the front opening is for the vertical adjustment, the one directly behind it (1 1/2" or so) is for lateral adjustment.
Sorry, I have Xenon's so I can't give you exact measurments.
Problem... I just looked up the adjustment for Xenon's and it says it is the same as non X, I do not believe this is correct as I do not have those adjustments listed above???

Good luck and let me know if this helped or not....

The adjustment is DONE...

actually it was EXTREMELY EASY... on a 1-10... its a 2...

took only a few seconds... open the hood and in front of the air box you will see a little yellow screw...

With the car pointed at the wall... turn screw with an allen wrench (or a small phillips screw driver) I turned the screw ONE FULL REVOLUTION UP.

the screw right side is just in front of the WASHER FLUID... I aligned the lights to be be even... LEFT AND RIGHT

it is now set to:

_____________/
/

I also adjust the FOG LIGHTS into the beam of the LOW BEAMS, by raising them up a few turns of an allen wrench (SMALL)

I will try to do a write up with pics soon.


PRO's... ONE FULL TURN of the adjustment screws (XENON)... and the entire road is well lit... Signs ahead are illuminated, and the "light line/dark line" is gone. It definiatly is a better expierience at night...

CON's... HIGH BEAMS are aimed WAY WAY too HIGH, almost seem useless... Also I got out of the car and walked up the street and looked back, I think i may be "Blinding" will need a bit more adjustment.

tonight i will probably LOWER the lights down 1/2 a turn and go out for a another test run. I DON't WANT TO BLIND ON-comming vehicles. truthfully i need a friend to sit opposite of an intersection in an average sized car.

1st of all...

THERE IS NO REASON TO REMOVE THE WHEELS... This project takes no more than 3-5 mins per side...

Driverside:

Turn steering wheel to far right to allow room to access panel...

the lower access panel you will see TWO 1/2 moon shaped plastic screws, rotate 1/2 turn to release panel.

note: using a straight screwdriver will F@K up the soft plastic screws... USE A good ol QUARTER... total cost $0.25

open access door (no need to remove, it opens plenty far)

you will see the bulb socket, rotate 1/8 of a turn and pull out... leave wires on and pull completely out of wheel well... There is about 12" of excess wire to work with.

REMOVE BULB, REPLACE BULB, (make sure metal clip is facing the proper way) put bulb back into socket and twist till it locks back in... WIRES FACE DOWN

close panel door, twist plastic screws with $ 0.25 tool.

Start car, turn steering wheel the other way and do passenger side...

DONE...

NOW adjust the beam of the fog lights up!!! WITH a "long allen wrench" (do not try screwdriver) put into little hole in bumper above the foglight lense on the bumper. With beam shinning on wall lift beam up (center) about 12" assuming the vehicle is 8-10 feet from wall. This seems to shine just under the headlights, without blinding anyone, you can definatly tell the difference.

stand back... observe... NOW ISN'T THE WORLD A BRIGHTER PLACE???

color temp... I put in 4300k... close up, you can see the xenon's are bluer then the fogs... BUT from the distance of another car... 4300k matches perfectly.

now the warning label... i am not a mechanic, nor do i hold any responsibilty to any alterations... as this should used for off road use only. the basic logical stuff...

BIGGER WARNING LABEL : BATTERY DIES QUICKLY!!!

WHILST ADJUSTING THE LIGHT BEAMS, PROBABLY A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE VEHICLE RUNNING!!! BY THE TIME I FINISHED MY ADJUSTMENTS (yes the radio was on, and so was the ignition to have the lamps to illuminate) MY BATTERY WAS LOW, TOO LOW TO START THE CAR, BUT HAD ENOUGH POWER TO LIGHT ALL THE LIGHTS. ENTER ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE HERE!

Bump