So I did a search and couldn't find a parts list. I would like an itemized list of all of the parts that I need to buy before I start. I need to do these two items on my 540 and want to replace anything else that you guys recommend while I have everything apart. Thanks for any help.

Paul

www.realoem.com

Here is the DIY guide I used: http://members.cox.net/rlacm/IntakeIndex.htm

It's really not a hard job if you have the time to go at a slow and careful pace.

Here is the thread I made when I replaced my gaskets:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=708385

You will want to refresh all gaskets relating to intake as they develop leaks over time. Also replacing the CCV valve on the back of the intake is also recommended as it's real easy when the intake is off.

You will want to refresh all gaskets relating to intake as they develop leaks over time. Also replacing the CCV valve on the back of the intake is also recommended as it's real easy when the intake is off.

All of that and more are addressed in the above links.

Thanks for all of the input. I am ordering the parts today. I plan to take my time.

Paul

I love curves, how long did the job take you? As for the vise grips, what size did you end up needing?

I did mine over the course of 2 days. I could have done it in 1, but I got a late start the first day plus I decided to strip/repaint my valve covers after I had pulled them off. I used a set of 8" blunt nose vice grips.

Thanks for the tips. Did you flush the coolant system also? I am asking because I just replaced the radiator and flushed the system. I looked at the diy link and the member also purchased some coolant.

No, didn't flush the system, but I didn't do the Valley pan on mine as it was holding fine. I don't think you would need to especially since you just did it recently. I would say, however, to follow the final instructions of the valley pan DIY on how to bleed your system after a change since you will surely lose some coolant in the process of changing the gasket and will be left with some air in the system.

Did you change the actual oil separator/ crankcase valve and the gasket or just the gasket? What about the throttle body gasket? Did you change the vent pipe? Did you end up changing the radiator hoses suggested in the DIY link above?

Paul

I did change every single gasket and O-ring possible in the intake, that included the fron/rear covers. I also did change the CCV to a new one, mine wasn't bad, but had to pull it off anyways to get to the oil seperator tube O-ring so I went with a new CCV in the process. I would have changed the trottle body O-ring that connects the throttle body to the intake elbow, but I didn't realize I hadn't ordered it and mine was OK anyways. The vent pipe I did replace, It came with the O-ring needed on it. I would have re-used the tube, but I kind of tore the original up trying to pry it free from the intake when I was pulling the intake off the engine. A few of the O-rings and grommets are supplied with the CCV and vent tube, so you'll have some left over if you order every single part from the list. Just don't open any of them until you actually need them an you'll be able to return what you don't use.

One more thing, you're likely to tear up some of the torx bolts trying to get them out. Once you have them all removed go to your local hardware store and find some normal hex bolts to replace them, don't try to re-use the old torx ones. You'll see what I mean when you go to pull them out, they seem to have been tightened by the hand of god!

Thanks, I am compiling the list now. I should place the order for the parts today. Besides the inner and outer valve cover gaskets, any other gaskets to replace while I have the valve cover off?

The grommets for the valve cover bolts. I forget how many there are, 24 IIRC. You can change/replace the rubber seal on the outside of the valve cover that seals when the plastic cover with "BMW" logo is on if you like or need. Not a critical part, just keeps dust and carwash spray out.

Would you replace the actual oil separator or just the o-ring associated with it. Also, I can't find a part number for the ccv valve. I went to realoem, but I can't find a similar name. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Paul

I just replaced the small o-ring on the tube inside the intake that runs back to the CCV.

Just so happens I still have my clipboard with my parts list handy. CCV part # 11617501563 Should cost about $75.

Dont forget the injector o-rings. There are 16, one on top and one on bottom of each injector. I did this job not too long ago and this was the only part on the above link that wasnt listed. In fact, it was the only part that needed to be replaced. Could have saved myself a lot of trouble, but at least now I dont have to worry about the manifold gaskets or valley pan for a while.

I will get the injector o-rings also. Thanks for the heads up. I will probable buy the ccv/oil separator and replace if necessary or return it. Any other suggestions?

I found the injector rings and the ccv. I figured out the ccv is different from the oil separator. The oil separator is part number 11151705272. Do you guys think I should replace this part also while I have it apart?

no, and the cyclone seperator is inside the engine anyway. you have to remove the left valve cover and the left front timing cover to access it.

It's really not a hard job if you have the time to go at a slow and careful pace.

Here is the thread I made when I replaced my gaskets:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=708385

Might try visiting this thread I posted earlier. It describes my venture into changing valvecover, intake, and fuel injector gasket/o-rings as well as what tools I actually needed. I think changing valve cover gaskets at the same time as the intake ones makes the overall job of removing the intake a bit easier what with the added clearance.

Just finished up last night, 03/2000 build date 540i/6 w/ 102k miles. Water pump, rad, fan, etc had already been replaced by PO. I never pulled the injectors from the IM, saw no need to replace those gaskets. Took 3 evenings from 8p-midnight taking my time. I didn't obsess over the cruddy valve cover gasket channels like others had, that's not where leaks occur. I did spend significant time making sure all flat mating surfaces were smooth. It's the heat aging of the rubber parts which causes the leaks, not contamination. Even though I went in for the valley pan, I found that my valve cover gaskets were leaking a fair amount of oil into the spark plug holes, and the front manifold cover seal was leaking. Didn't replace the TB seal as it was in great shape - doesn't get as much heat as the rearward seals.

NECESSARY – For leaking valley pan – parts which are brittle or will be damaged during removal

Valley Pan
11141742042 - Valley Pan (~$60)
11141736106 - Valley Pan Cover (~$12)

Cooling system parts
11531710048 - O-Ring for cooling tube = x 2
11531710055 - O-Ring for cooling tube = x 2
11531731833 - Rear Manifold Accumulator seal = x 2 (~$3 each)

RECOMMENDED – These were aged but reuseable on mine, but don’t cut corners

Valley pan
13711741097 - Covering Cap, valley pan heat shield = x 4

Intake Manifold
11611433328 - Intake Gasket = x 4 (~$11 each)
11611729727 - Front Manifold Cover (~$3)
option A. 11617501563 - Rear manifold Cover (CVV) with seals (~$60)
option B. 11611729728 - Rear Manifold Cover seal (~$3)

Vent tube
option A. 11151705301 - Vent Pipe [Crankcase Ventilation] (~$30)
option B. 11151736140 - O-Ring, vent tube rear seal + 11151747978 - O-Ring, vent tube front seal

OPTIONAL – But recommended while torn down

Valve cover gaskets
11129071589 - Valve Cover Gasket, Cylinder 1-4
11129071590 - Valve Cover Gasket, Cylinder 5-8
11121733969 - Profile Gasket = x 2 [Gaskets around Spark Plug Cover]
11121437395 - Valve Cover Grommet Gasket = x 22

Spark Plugs
12129071003 – NGK BKR6EQUP = x 8 (~$7 ea)

Cooling system
XXXXXXXXX - Rear hose heater core to accumulator – depends on year, read pn and order

why replace the injector o-rings? last time I checked the fuel rails come off with the intake manifold and you never have to remove the injectors from the intake or the rail.

why replace the injector o-rings? last time I checked the fuel rails come off with the intake manifold and you never have to remove the injectors from the intake or the rail.

Exactly. Except for the one poster above I have never heard of any problems.

While it is true that you don't have to remove the rail/injectors from the intake manifold to change all of the intake manifold gaskets, but one might as well since there will never be an easier time. I've only seen 1 person actually have a bad injector o-ring and that only caused a somewhat slow start issue. None of my injector o-rings were actually bad on my 170k mile engine, but they were somewhat old and a little dry. Mine seemed to have bulged a bit over time too. I changed mine on suspicion and to be completely thorough. It’s a $75 option that you may well not have to include. Just depends on how far you want to take it or if you can identify the need for them beforehand.

Nice list, thanks.

Which are the torx bolts that I want to replace with normal bolts? The bolts that attach the CCV to the rear of the intake and the flange to the front of the intake. There is also hex bolt with washer for the Valley Pan and stud bolts underneath the cover for the valve cover. I can't tell from the OEM diagrams which set are torx bolts.

The front and rear intake cover bolts were the ones that I changed out for regular hex head bolts. I never removed my valley pan so I couldn't tell you. I forget how many of them there were, over a dozen combined.

hey ILC, i just noticed that you have an additional ground wire on the 3rd coil on bank 2. just hit me that i don't, thats weird..??

:dunno You got me. I gave up trying to figure this car out! ha ha