Guys & Gals,

I think I have a simple fix to the tension straps. I did this a week or so ago but wanted to try it out a few times before I posted. I know someone mentioned this in a post but never knew if anyone tried it. I used zip ties. Thats right zip ties. The straps are elastic enough to push a zip tie through without making a hole. I folded over about 1 inch of material and zip tied it. My window part of the top now goes vertical and the lid and top no longer rub each other. Easy fix.

Thanks, I need to adjust my straps. Adjusted tension rods and one microswitch and don't have the almost-90-degree-angle issue anymore but the lid rubs against the top a little.

I Also have to get it re-lashed by the back seats, whoever installed the top did a terrible job lashing the strings!! Might just take it somewhere that knows which string goes where.

Guys & Gals,

I think I have a simple fix to the tension straps. I did this a week or so ago but wanted to try it out a few times before I posted. I know someone mentioned this in a post but never knew if anyone tried it. I used zip ties. Thats right zip ties. The straps are elastic enough to push a zip tie through without making a hole. I folded over about 1 inch of material and zip tied it. My window part of the top now goes vertical and the lid and top no longer rub each other. Easy fix.

I think I did mention them, as was told to me, by Carbio Care, a local vert specialst.
Good to know it works!

Could you please tell me where exactly you did this? (at what bow).

Guys & Gals,

I think I have a simple fix to the tension straps. I did this a week or so ago but wanted to try it out a few times before I posted. I know someone mentioned this in a post but never knew if anyone tried it. I used zip ties. Thats right zip ties. The straps are elastic enough to push a zip tie through without making a hole. I folded over about 1 inch of material and zip tied it. My window part of the top now goes vertical and the lid and top no longer rub each other. Easy fix.

Yep. I tried this myself a few weeks ago, and it does indeed effectively produce more tension on the tension straps.

But that didnt fix my issue. My bow hitting lid issue was only resolved when i replaced the lid struts.

Which I thought you did as well..and I thought that fixed your bow hitting lid issue?

Iseguy,

Today I thoroughly looked at all roof mechnism items to see what I can fix.

I noticed that the tension straps are just (also) screwed on right above the frame in between the side windows. There some sort of patch glues over it to hide these.
Could I just inscrew these, pull them tight and rescrew? Does it matter where you tighten the tension straps?

I ask this because I thought the straps were only attached to the frame on the front and the very last bow. But there seem to be attached to all frames. So is there any preferable place (for example: between bow 4 and 5) where I would do this?

- I also pulled out that metal rod that goed into the headliner. As expected, it was as bend as a banana. Near impossible to straighten it again, but I gave it a test try and yes, the headliner fold back MUCH better. So a new one would sort it out I guess.

- I have this major clunk when the tension bar is (near) vertical and the lid is about to open.
I thought it was the latches so I adjusted these. Then when my friend took a look, he noticed that on the bottem of the frame (it's the lower bow that sits on the lid when the roof is closed) so this stands vertical when the tension bar is raised.
On this end, is a weid cilindrical piece welded on with a screw, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
Well it's this part, that right in front of the lid, so the lid sticks behind it and *clunks* free.
Now that explained the weird damage that the front platisc of the leading edge of the lid has.

Then finally, as a "quick and dirty fix" I just loosened the tension bow rod of the motor and did a full turn in. This on controls the tension bar (window) lifting, so now it goes to full vertical (before I do the tension bar fix).
I noticed it has a slide bend. Is this normal or?

- Finally I cleaned all the dirt out, and greased that groove that is in the 5th bow. The 6th (window/tension) bow slides in this groove and if it sticks, it will also prevent it to go to vertical properly.

So I learned alot about the whole mechanism again. It's nice if it all works, but it's pretty complicated if you take a detailed look.

Thanks in advance Iseguy. You seem to know alot about the roof.

Hey guys just an additional update. I did replace the shocks which kept the lid from hitting the top in the center, but it was also grazing the sides as it would come up and down, so even though the shocks fixed the problem with it hitting in the center...i was still grazing the sides (by the dog ears). I cinched up about 1 inch of material right above the window, so i guess that would be between the 5 and 6th bow. I also fixed my other problem today which now makes my top absolutely fully automatic without me getting out of the car. My headliner was getting caught on the felt lip when the top was being tucked in the storage compartment. I think I mentioned this in a previous post...but the rod that is in the top is supposed to be curved. Someone mentioned that is was supposed to be straight but that is incorrect. I purchased a new one and the new one from the dealership is bowed. In order to fix the problem, I used my old rod and the new rod together, that pull the headliner tight enough to go ahead and tuck the headliner under the lid. So at this point, again.....hands free operation.

my headliner gets caught in the same place on the bottom in the same distance the rear window takes up? it'd be nice to fix it all!

Iseguy,

Today I thoroughly looked at all roof mechnism items to see what I can fix.

I noticed that the tension straps are just (also) screwed on right above the frame in between the side windows. There some sort of patch glues over it to hide these.
Could I just inscrew these, pull them tight and rescrew? Does it matter where you tighten the tension straps?

I ask this because I thought the straps were only attached to the frame on the front and the very last bow. But there seem to be attached to all frames. So is there any preferable place (for example: between bow 4 and 5) where I would do this?

- I also pulled out that metal rod that goed into the headliner. As expected, it was as bend as a banana. Near impossible to straighten it again, but I gave it a test try and yes, the headliner fold back MUCH better. So a new one would sort it out I guess.

- I have this major clunk when the tension bar is (near) vertical and the lid is about to open.
I thought it was the latches so I adjusted these. Then when my friend took a look, he noticed that on the bottem of the frame (it's the lower bow that sits on the lid when the roof is closed) so this stands vertical when the tension bar is raised.
On this end, is a weid cilindrical piece welded on with a screw, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
Well it's this part, that right in front of the lid, so the lid sticks behind it and *clunks* free.
Now that explained the weird damage that the front platisc of the leading edge of the lid has.

Then finally, as a "quick and dirty fix" I just loosened the tension bow rod of the motor and did a full turn in. This on controls the tension bar (window) lifting, so now it goes to full vertical (before I do the tension bar fix).
I noticed it has a slide bend. Is this normal or?

- Finally I cleaned all the dirt out, and greased that groove that is in the 5th bow. The 6th (window/tension) bow slides in this groove and if it sticks, it will also prevent it to go to vertical properly.

So I learned alot about the whole mechanism again. It's nice if it all works, but it's pretty complicated if you take a detailed look.

Thanks in advance Iseguy. You seem to know alot about the roof.

Hey there:
First off..I JUST got my vert a month ago..so by FAR, you guys have WAAY more vert top knowledge than me.

With that being said, I followed one of the tech articles that's somewhere in this forum, and folded/tied my straps at the rear bow. Keep in mind the straps werent/arent my issue, so I removed by ties after the test. Have no idea about tying them anywhere else.

Im hearing conflicting info on that metal bar. I dont know now if its supposed to be straight? Or have the curve. I believe jason stated he purchased a new one and it had the bend. I need to go that route and get a new one.

The slight bend you notice in the tension bow rod appears to be normal. I have the bend on mine, and also noticed it in another vert I test drove.

.....but the rod that is in the top is supposed to be curved. Someone mentioned that is was supposed to be straight but that is incorrect. ..

I thought I read that it needs to be straight, and while I'm not gonna argue what's right and what's wrong, I can only back up my opinion that it needs to be staright by these 2 "proofs":

1: mine was bend and the headliner didn't fold back properly. I straightened it out for as much as is possible for such a thin rod and at the very first test the headliner folded in much better. Not perfect (since I couldn't straighten it perfectly) but much better.

2: The diagram on Realoem, which shows a straight rod. If it's supposed to be bend, I presume it would be shown like that in the ETK diagram:
(maybe, just maybe, it has a slight curvature, but mine was bend that it looked like a half circel.

#12:

http://bmwfans.info/original/images/11950_p.png

Only thing I can add to that is the one I picked up from the dealer was bowed, I verified with the parts guy that it was supposed to be like that and he said yes. However, even with the new one it did not work perfectly, but once I ran the old rod from the other side and put them together, it worked great. The rod is only $10 or $12....its worth giving it a try. Just dont throw away your old rod until you try what I am talking about. I hope it works.

I tried ziptying the straps, but I guess I was a bit too enthusiastic and shortened them by like 10cm a side.
Well...then the window bow can't drop down.
So much for its elasticy..
On the other hand...why would 2cm make a difference.
I still don't know how these straps - that are so loose - can make the other bows pull forward so that the rear bow can get vertical.

Which make me wonder more...the tension bow rod is asjusted in such way, that it pulls the window bow up as much as possible, all the way to it's stop.
But the tension straps not making the other part go forwrad enough, the gigantic leverage of the top of the bow on the lower pivot (and thus the rod) is enough to not let it go to vertical.

I'm beginning to very much dislike this stupid tension strap system.

Time to save up for a e93 335i I guess....

EDIT: what's so weird...the bow does com to vertical (zipties ripped out) when I close the roof. It's only when the roof needs to go down, the tension bow doesn't raise to vertical...very weird.

Only thing I can add to that is the one I picked up from the dealer was bowed, I verified with the parts guy that it was supposed to be like that and he said yes. However, even with the new one it did not work perfectly, but once I ran the old rod from the other side and put them together, it worked great. The rod is only $10 or $12....its worth giving it a try. Just dont throw away your old rod until you try what I am talking about. I hope it works.
check this out... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=715404

some of the sleeves that the rod fits into could be torn and in need of re-attaching.

lets say that the dealer is right, the rod is supposed to be curved.

straightening the rod out works as a temporary fix because it compensates for the torn sleeves by pulling in the sides of the headliner... until the sleeves for the rod rip more.

A convertible-guy at the stealership looked at my tension rods after adjusting them and said that that one should -not- be bent. He just pushed down on it with his arms and straightened it out (making me need to adjust them... again). He says it happens over time.

EDIT: what's so weird...the bow does com to vertical (zipties ripped out) when I close the roof. It's only when the roof needs to go down, the tension bow doesn't raise to vertical...very weird.

This question has puzzled me for the last 3 and a half years! :confused

A convertible-guy at the stealership looked at my tension rods after adjusting them and said that that one should -not- be bent. He just pushed down on it with his arms and straightened it out (making me need to adjust them... again). He says it happens over time.

What I thought. They bend over time. The realoem diagram clearly states a straight rod.

But I'l ask my dealer for a second opinion.

But the headliner is also straight where the rod sits.

So have we figured out all that affects the headliner from folding FULLY down into the storage compartment/no becoming hung up behind the headrests?

I just ordered a replacement rod today for $9.38 at the local dealer. should be in on Wednesday. I will try it solo, then going in from the passenger side so it can work with the original rod currently in place ala Jasont

it's not really a HUGE deal having to stop, get out, tuck, then get back in and complete the opening process. Especially since my vert is a weekend only pleasure car..but still. I like everything to work as it should.

it's not really a HUGE deal having to stop, get out, tuck, then get back in and complete the opening process. Especially since my vert is a weekend only pleasure car..but still. I like everything to work as it should.

I agree...but I am one of these guys that not into modifying the car that much. I like it to look like it came from the factory....I like it to work like it came from the factory, thus all the work I have put into it.

check this out... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=715404

some of the sleeves that the rod fits into could be torn and in need of re-attaching.

lets say that the dealer is right, the rod is supposed to be curved.

straightening the rod out works as a temporary fix because it compensates for the torn sleeves by pulling in the sides of the headliner... until the sleeves for the rod rip more.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/palomino328/bigshift.gif

I thought I read that it needs to be straight, and while I'm not gonna argue what's right and what's wrong, I can only back up my opinion that it needs to be staright by these 2 "proofs":

1: mine was bend and the headliner didn't fold back properly. I straightened it out for as much as is possible for such a thin rod and at the very first test the headliner folded in much better. Not perfect (since I couldn't straighten it perfectly) but much better.

2: The diagram on Realoem, which shows a straight rod. If it's supposed to be bend, I presume it would be shown like that in the ETK diagram:
(maybe, just maybe, it has a slight curvature, but mine was bend that it looked like a half circel.

#12:

http://bmwfans.info/original/images/11950_p.png


Picked up my #12 part today from the local dealer. Sealed in plastic, brand new, and sure enough, it has an arc in it. Parts guy said that's the way it's supposed to be. I replaced the old one that I had "straightened" (because I thought it was supposed to be straight) with the band new one, and saw a slight improvement. Nothing major.

lse....trying running both rods. It really stiffens it up and seems to work much better for me. I ran the old rod starting at the opposite again. At that point...it tucked in without help.

About to head into the garage and give that a shot Jasont..after I finish uploading a few pics.

Brand new roof rod

http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/4/9321574630.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5146940)

Thats exactly how mine looked..which was hardly any difference from the way my old one looked when I tried straightening it.

Thats exactly how mine looked..which was hardly any difference from the way my old one looked when I tried straightening it.

Exactly. So in actuality, straightening the rod is the OPPOSITE of what one wants to do. We need to ensure that the original rod is curved...which they appear to be based on what we are seeing.

Brand new roof rod

http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/4/9321574630.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5146940)

Is that the rod!!??? :eyecrazy

Djeez, mine was like that and I was sure it was crooked as hell. If it's supposed to have a curve, I thought a curve like the roof curves, but not this extreme.
So mine was fine after all??

That's confusing as the realoem diagram clearly shows a straight piece.

Well not sure if it matters, but I can only tell from real life experience, that after I as much straightened mine as possible, the headliner folded in MUCH better (almost completely), instantly.

lse....trying running both rods. It really stiffens it up and seems to work much better for me. I ran the old rod starting at the opposite again. At that point...it tucked in without help.

Tried it..no change.

With the new rod installed properly, all of my headliner material on the passenger side, and center..go completely down into the storage area. The drivers side, however, still pokes out some. It appears the prior owner was aware, because I see a couple of strips of velcro that are used to join a 3 inch section of headliner to underside of the roof fabric. This 3 inch section is JUST to the rear of where the rod loop is located on the drivers side. The velro had come undone, so I applied a couple of new pieces. But still, that piece of drivers side still pokes out. it's 99% covered up when the storage lid closes, and the storage lid does close fully flush now. But still, it annoys me.