I know an e36 should not feel this "unstable" while driving. I'll try to explain my best.

At speeds anywhere from 45+ it just feels like my car goes side to side/back and forth. Maybe the best way to describe it is the feeling you feel on windy day on the highway. I thought originally it was because of blown shocks.

Since I have brand new shocks/struts, RSMS, plates and two brand new rear tires, about 2 months ago and it still feels like something just isn't right. I had my mechanic look at it again on the lift and he even took it for a drive and said everything is fine and may be caused by worn front wheels? They are starting to look worn but by no means are the bald.

my questions are: I have never had an alignment but when I let go of the steering wheel, it drives straight. Can a car be out of alignment but still drive "straight"?

Could it be a wheel bearing issue?

One of the wheels has a small bent but I think it's the rear. Would that cause it?

It's really frustrating to drive my car and it just doesn't feel planted on the road. ?

thanks for any input.

Did you check your RTABs? If they're worn, your rear toe will wander in and out, making your car feel unstable.

"I haven't" but assumed my mechanic did. Is that something I can check if I jack the car up?

Wait a sec. Dont the E36's need to be aligned after a strut replacement?

With the suspension work that's already been done the car should have had a four wheel alignment about 500 miles after the suspension refresh. But before doing the aliggnment you should make sure that it doesn't need new RTAB's.

You can't actually see the RTABs until you drop the RTA by supporting it with a jack, removing the 3 bolts from the bracket after marking their current positions, and slowly lowering the jack to drop the RTA, exposing the RTAB. Unless the RTAB is really shot, I don't know if you can check it in place. How many miles on your RTABs?

I vote for RTABs.

I have been fighting this battle as well... but I have also replaced the RTAB, Control arm bushing, new rims, tires, new shocks, struts (Bilstein sports), Bav Auto sport springs, control arms with metal bushings, full tie rods (not just the ends) and new sway bar links. just about everything!!!

Still get that wandering feeling at above 45mph. Had is aligned 2 times... once immediately and once more about 2000 miles later.

Also, may or may not be related, but I also have a noise that was quiet at first but is now unbearable. Whenever I turn the wheel, it will make a consistent creak from lock to lock. I have not tracked down the source, but it is definitely near the right strut and/or control arm. All bolts are snug and it does not matter how fast or slow you go. When I jack the car up, the noise disappears. no clunks or other noises from the front.

Someone suggested upper strut bearings, but I also thought maybe sway bar bushings? Anyone else had this?

BTW - been snooping around this post for a long time, but this is my first post, so go easy on me!

Oops, forgot the mention, I did the RTAB's first, and they made a big difference in the wandering, but did not completely eliminate it. It is a cheap, albeit tough, fix. I would also start there.

If you do your RTABs, I'd recommend installing the delrin shims to further stabilize the rear end, especially if you drive aggressively. I just installed the Vorshlag RTAB shims on mine.

If you do your RTABs, I'd recommend installing the delrin shims to further stabilize the rear end, especially if you drive aggressively. I just installed the Vorshlag RTAB shims on mine.

What if you replaced with Poly bushings? Would the shims still work?

If the poly bushings are the same shape as the stock ones, I don't see why they wouldn't work. Their effect wouldn't be as dramatic with the stiffer bushings, but they're still bound to extend their life.

thanks for all the input guys. I will start with the RTAB's first as per my previous owners records all from the dealer they have not been replaced. My car has 116k on the clock.

What about Lower control arm bushings in the front?

No one has mentioned the Subframe bushings. Can this cause the same type of issue ?