As many people know, I am building a 650CSi out of a 1982 633CSi chassis with an M70 motor from a 1988 750iL. It has the automatic transmission which is most likely what I am going to shove into my 6, unless I can find a good deal on a six speed manual. <any help locating one would be helpful, and does anyone know how much trouble the ECU's would have with the conversion from AT to MT?> I have replaced the original motor due to a spun rod bearing. The crank was unable to be reground because of the extent of the damage. I got the motor out of a 1987 535i to put into my six. Before I could complete the transfer (I needed a new exhaust system) I found the 750iL for $500. The V12 only has 66K miles on it and seems like will be a great motor. It runs ridiculously smooth. The reason why I am not just going to finish the 6 and rebuild the 7 is because the 7 is basically destroyed, lots of body damage, entire braking system has failed, and I think that it would be sweet to put a V12 from a 5250lb car into a 3400lb car.
So, a recap:
I am going to put this:
http://www.esnips.com/imageable/medium/ddb1af41-5ac9-4d69-8f5a-aa38b19be798/?du=0d81da9e-6904-4408-95d7-99a0d92d82e2&uu=981ddecf-d110-4183-972b-ec91a0e5ce2f&dt=1174849203000&fu=1c603fec-5255-4877-ab25-2f38d1e342b4
From this:
http://www.esnips.com/imageable/medium/97becdf7-d796-4d4a-a5fb-3cad208489e1/?du=0d81da9e-6904-4408-95d7-99a0d92d82e2&uu=981ddecf-d110-4183-972b-ec91a0e5ce2f&dt=1174849066000&fu=1c603fec-5255-4877-ab25-2f38d1e342b4
Into this:
http://www.esnips.com/imageable/medium/62da3a89-7536-4d6f-87c3-d611c6f9a923/?du=0d81da9e-6904-4408-95d7-99a0d92d82e2&uu=981ddecf-d110-4183-972b-ec91a0e5ce2f&dt=1174077162000&fu=1c603fec-5255-4877-ab25-2f38d1e342b4
That currently has this in it:
http://www.esnips.com/imageable/medium/e44ea538-e38c-427a-ab5c-00bb62531299/?du=0d81da9e-6904-4408-95d7-99a0d92d82e2&uu=981ddecf-d110-4183-972b-ec91a0e5ce2f&dt=1173312789000&fu=1c603fec-5255-4877-ab25-2f38d1e342b4
Which will be for sale along with the 5 speed MT after it is removed from my car.

Yea ive heard rumors about the auto boxes that were made for the E32 V12 cars were complete garbage after 75k if not cared for well. But since you are looking to do a six speed swap then it wouldnt be an issue! Good luck with everything!

-Jeff

I had the automatic transmission checked by a BMW fanatic/mechanic, they said it was in remarkably good condition.

For the sake of all the work you will have to do.. I would try to find a 6 speed tranny for it. I wouldn't just take some mechanics word for it.

If the mechanic cannot drive the car nor take the transmission apart to examine it then his comment would basically apply only to the actual appearance of the transmission and not it's realistic functionality.

I've seen many good looking parts that did not work properly.

The 750 was fully functional, ran fine, could drive and the like, still does, I am just tearing it apart.
He was the one I bought the car off of.

You might contact Ed Raether at Mwrench.com. he was well into this before he abandoned the project. he'll have some good insight for you. I'm sure it's "possible" but will probably require cubic dollars.

Okay, I haven't mentioned this on this page in a while, but I have finally (after posting a question, which I should have done in the first place) discovered the weight difference between the two motors. Remarkably, it is only a 26lb difference, and that will be offset because, in order to accomadate the extra components for the V12, I must move the battery to the rear, causing forward weight to actually decrease because of this swap.

I am in the process of removing the original paint from the 6 and prepping it for the new motor. Since I am unable to find a reasonably priced 6 speed manual tranny for the M70, I will modify the lower console in order to put the automatic transmission from the 750iL.

I have seen the YouTube video of my project completed, and it further inspires me to complete it. I will hopefully bring it to SE SharkFest next year.:D

I've read about a Scandinavian who did this in an E30 using the heart of the 850csi, so I'm pretty sure you could pull it off. I'd love to see the progress.

thats the sh*t man , i wish i could do that swap but i cant handle a project like that on the weekends in my parents garage , so instead im either going 745 swap or tcd, depends on cash flowi know 745 is a straight swap as long a u use engine mounts from another bmw (gotta do more research) and will be the cheaper of the two, but enough about my ideas.

are you preforming all the work yourself?

cant wait to see this finished!

100% of the work that can be done by me, will be done by me.
That means cubic hours instead of cubic dollars. The only work I am having done is paint, new window seals, and a dash recover. I may also roll the fenders to give the car a wider stance, kind of like a pseudo-widebody. Other than that, I am doing everything. I plan on swapping the entire drivetrain from the 7 into the 6. This may become difficult around the driveshaft-differential, seeing as it may be too long and the differential I am pretty sure has a different mounting than the current.

So I have discovered that now I am above the point where I can post pictures, hopefully they work this time.
The Six, as it was in October.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/TheBMW18.jpg

Donor Car #1
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW043.jpg

Bad Motor (3.3)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW012.jpg

Good Motor from 535i (3.5)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMWMotor32.jpg

Donor Car #2
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW750iL002.jpg

M70 V12
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW750iL011.jpg

At the moment, I do not have any pictures of the current stage of the 6, although all I have done is strip much of the paint and remove the front assembly (kidneys, headlights, further grille assemby). I would go take pictures, but my garage is not bright enough to light it up, and it is dark outside.

why I can't see any of your pictures?

Sorry.
I found a new photo host and reloaded the pictures.

what size are the rims of the 7th series, I thing they will look good on my six :)

Excellent work! Looks like this is going to be one helluva car! I was wondering though, what all do you have left of the "bad motor"?

-Jeff

The bad motor was a 3.3 M30. I have all parts for the motor. The problem was a spun main bearing. It ground the crank down beyond repair. I also plan on selling the entire drivetrain which is currently in the sixer (3.5 M30 and all components therof, 5 speed manual transmission, driveshaft, and differential).

The rims I believe are 16s, not sure though. I was planning on having them powdercoated and putting them on my 6.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW750iL007.jpg

Interesting project! Will be interested to see some of the progress! I'm in Cary, so if you have an afternoon one weekend, I'd love to see it!

I was wondering, because if its a 633 then it has the same motor as i and i was wondering if you had the idle control valve still, if so i would be interested in buying that off you, assuming that the car ran good before the spun bearing. That motor should look fantastic under the hood of the 6er.

-Jeff

The motor did not idle very well before dismantled. It will require cleaning. I will try to clean it up and check it out for you if you want.

No worries, not worth to go through the trouble for it, thanks though.

-Jeff

Looks like you're making good progress, but it seems to be quite the undertaking.

My girlfriend would kill me if I brought 3 more cars home.

My girlfriend would kill me if I brought 3 more cars home.

Naw, that would be the ultimate test of your love! Try it, you can always sell them again. :D

It's been a while, but I have got quite a bit more work done. most of the trim has been removed, front bumper and whatnot. Sanded a lot of the paint off, down to the original primer (trying to save on getting it painted, those bastards charge like $90 per hour to strip the thing). I have decided to go ahead with my initial plan and take it to a body shop to have a widebody kit made for it in 'GTR' style.
Oh yeah, removing window trim is hard. does anyone know of a place to get the aluminum stripping from around the side windows cheap?
Pictures:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW773.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW772.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW771.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW770.jpg

Could anyone with photoshop skills help me out...
:help :help :help
If you could, make a six into this kind of body kit:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW20M320GTR.jpg

I really think it will look nice. Good think I have external support for finances. (My dad really wants to drive this thing :alright)

Quick Question: How do I remove the panels surrounding the rear bumper? Those black rubbery things are a pain in the ass. Good thing I am having a body kit done so none of that will have to go back on it. Most likely I will be selling the front and rear bumpers when I am done, also the trim from the doors and around the bottom. Also, what's the easiest way to remove the entire console? (Dash, cluster, gearshift harness) and what dimensions do I need to look at for a replacement? Do you think that the console from the 750 would work? I know the plastic door part at the top will need to be replaced to accomodate the larger dashboard, but I think that the rest will fit. Any comments are appreciated.

The only way to get everything out is to start at the ebrake console. 2 rectangle plugs on the top near the back of the seats, pop them up and unscrew the screw/bolts under neath. Then go to the console and start unscrewing all the philiphead screws along the side. Never did a dash before. What condition are the black plastic belows on your car? Id be interested if they arent too bad.

-Jeff

Sorry, black plastic belows? Not sure what you are referring to. Thanks for the info on the dash, I'll check that out tomorrow. I know there are numerous people with photoshop abilities on here, I've seen your works of art. Could someone please photoshop the widebody kit onto a sixer?

Alright, my interior is different from what you told me, but I figured out how to get the lower console out. It is a Manual Tranny, so I don't know if that would make a difference. It is a Pre 5/82 model build. I've removed as many screws as I can find, but I still cannot remove the upper dash. Beginning to make me eye that sawzall on my shelf. I can't do that in case the dash from the 7 cannot be put in there without extreme modifications, though the current dash in the 6 is toast. I am really hoping that it fits, or else I'll have to fabricate a new one. I'll see about getting pictures of my dash to see if anyone can give me any pointers on how to remove it, as to where any hidden screws are.

Jeff was on the right track. Now to remove the main dash you will need to remove the check panel, the filler piece between the instrument cluster and the HVAC controls, remove steering wheel or drop it down, remove the instrument cluster and HVAC panel. On either end of the dash is a 13mm? nut that will need to be removed and a brace at the glove box latch. Check for any wiring that needs to be released from the dash and it should be free to be pulled back and out. I have removed them several times but may have missed something because it has been a while but you should be able to figue it out when you start removing parts.

The car does not have tilt steering... so I removed the steering wheel (that was easy, it was a Nardi with 8? hex screws) and I have no idea on how to remove the instrument cluster. Also, the AC and clock cluster seems to be stuck. I cannot remove it either. I'm completely confused. What a nightmare the dash has turned out to be. I removed the driver's seat for more easy access, which helped, but now I have no idea what to do next. *eye's sawzall once again* NO, must not give up!

None of the e24s have tilt steering but they do have telescopic steering. By droping down the steering wheel/column you would need to loosen the 2 bolts that hold the column to the dash support. If you remove the check panel and the filler panel that I mentioned, you will find screws that retain the cluster and air control panel.

If this is proving to be this much trouble, are you sure you want to tackle the 750 dash? How do you plan to get the instruments to work? How are you going to make the air controls work? Have you even removed the dash fron the 750? Have you measured to see if it will fit?

Do a search because there have been some detailed descriptions on cluster removal and air control panel removal.

The instruments will be done by an electrician more skilled than I am (My dad) I am just having issues because this is the first time I've done this sort of thing. From the measurements I've taken, the 750 dash should fit. The only issue is length. That is minor. I will just need to modify the door panels to accomodate the longer dash. The only problem is the upper foam piece.
I've got the two boldts that hold the column to the dash support removed. and I have the air control panel loose, but it won't come out. I will need to take another look to find the screws from the cluster.
The entire system is going to be transferred from one car to the other. Everything goes into the 6 from the 7.

Here is a link to a detailed dash removal on the 5/82 and later e24.

http://www.scuttlebut.info/dash.php

Good luck, the electrical will be interesting but anything is possible.

In Raleigh? I'll be up there in a few weeks for school, I'd like to check it out.

I cannot guarantee that my car will be available for you to see when you get here. I will try to get it to the body shop within a few weeks. When were you planning on being here? I might still have it by then, though it will be just a shell of a car. I am stripping everything out of the car for this project. The 7's components are newer and most likely better, so I plan on using it's parts for the car. I've been working on this car for about 10 months now. It might look like I didn't do much, but that was because my initial plan was to just replace the original motor (with the destroyed main bearing) with another M30. I found the 5 litre V12 and looked up if it fit, and it did. So then I set to work prepping the car for it. and since all of this is being done, I figured I might as well set to work fixing everything else about it. I like a wider stance for a car, so I'm going for the widebody kit, and wider tires, and lowering it. The Carpeting and dash needed redone, so that will be taken care of during the project. Let me know when you plan on being here and I'll see what I can do. I actually live in Garner, but it's only 10 minutes from downtown.

The dash is out. *yay* And with no help from Mr. Sawzall! What's left on sanding is the rear quarter panels, the trunk, roof and hood, and around the windows. It's about to rain so all the mosquitos came out in force so I had to retreat the car into the garage and quit.

In Raleigh? I'll be up there in a few weeks for school, I'd like to check it out.

There are a lot of Bimmer folks in the area. Check NCEuro (http://nceuro.org/forums/) for the local crew. Let me know if you need anything when you land here.

I'll be up there for quite some time... majoring in Mechanical Engineering, transferring from UNC Charlotte.

Here is a picture of a pretty unorthodox way of making a M70 a manual using a plate of aluminum and a 265 dogleg trans!

Do you think the transmission from the M30 motor could be made to fit the M70 motor through this process?

Screw it... 100!

Do you think the transmission from the M30 motor could be made to fit the M70 motor through this process?

That is exactly what he has done. The 265 sport/dogleg was most often found on the M90 which is in the M30 family of motors. Y'all are only about 1.5-2 hours apart so I would think it might be worth a visit to share stories.

The plate is not that uncommom of a method to adapt the tranny and should not provide any service issues.

That is excellent news. I should see about doing that. I still need the brake booster from the seven because the one in the six is about the size of a basketball, and the motor is quite a bit to large to shove them both in there. Are there any durability issues with this method? and would I just go to a machine shop and have it fabricated for me? I am really not sauvvy enough working with metal to do that myself. Would I require a new Clutch/flywheel to make this work? Once I get the car apart, and to the body shop, I'll set to work with getting that done. My GF will never want to drive my car when I do this. She's already afraid because she doesn't want to screw up what I've worked so long and hard on. Right, ummm, sure. I just have zero work ethic.

Your car has the vac boost system; correct? How about switching over to the hydro boost system y=that was used on the later e24s and e28s. Not sure how the 750 is done but that might work as well. It would require the PS pump, reservoir, master cylinder, accumulator and regulator.

I am sure you could get with 640csi for the pattern and if he had it done, he could probably put you in touch with the shop that made the part.

How hard would it be to install an ABS system into my 6er, It currently doesn't have it, and I think the ABS Controller from the 7 functions, would there be any way to use it and add ABS all around (I want, therefore require new calipers and rotors, so I was hoping to put in ABS while I'm at it, would that require too much work?

I would think that if you are replacing all the calipers and everything, that adding the ABS system wouldnt be that bad unless there is some electronic control issue with it. I know you will need the correct master cylinder, not sure about booster though.

-Jeff

I am hoping to use as much off of the 7er as possible, though I know the brake lines are shot (they won't work anyway on the 6), and most likely the calipers. The ABS controller I think functions. I'm hoping I can salvage the rotors. I am confused, why are there no rear calipers available for the 750iL?

Just finished tearing out the M30. Finally went and bought an engine hoist. I need to update my picture in my signature, but it is too dark now. The front and rear windsheilds are out, as is the rear bumper.

Argh... I was busy during the day and was unable to get any pictures taken. By the time I was able to take some pictures, it had started raining. Since the car is taken apart, water is very very bad. I plan on working some more tonight, and if I get a chance, I'll try to take some more pictures and list what else I've done.

Alright, well, I'm going to look at a set of wheels tomorrow. They will need spacers, but they are 18x8.5 +20 5x120
They are Ace Klassik A132s.
They look like this, and from the pictures I've been supplied (misplaced them) they look to be in excellent condition aside from being dirty:


http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/AceKlassik.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/AceKlassikfront.jpg

I'd really recommend 17" wheels. 18" is a lot for an old suspension of an old design.

Looking forward to catching it one day. Do you or your dad ever hang out w/ the NCEuro crew?

Nope, this is my first car, and he drove an Evo VIII for a while, then it got totaled, now he drives a Subaru Baja. But we used to hang out with the Mazda Club up in North Raleigh. Though I think there was only one Mazda, a Protege, that actually ever showed up, the rest were Evos, an SRT-4, an S2000, and some others that I forget.

And the suspension needs to be replaced, shocks and springs are pretty toasted. And I will not be deterred by a lack of interest in my widebody plans, so ha! It should be going to the body shop some time next week. That means I can start tearing apart the 7er.

Should you not wait until the "widebody" is done before you look for wheels? I would think that you would need to size the wheels and offset to the space available so you could maximize the "dish" in the wheel and gain the most impact of the "deep dish" appearance.

Sure, but the wheels are $200 for the set. I can get spacers and then eventually get different wheels.

Could anyone photoshop them on to a six just to get an approximate feel for how they'd look?

I can make it as easy as possible to photoshop:
Side view:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BMW772.jpg
Side view wheels:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/AceKlassikfront.jpg
I would do it myself, I just don't have photoshop installed ATM.

Oh well, I guess they weren't meant to be. The girl apparently couldn't tell the difference between dirty and the chrome chipping off. SO I still need to find new wheels, but I think I'll take your advice and wait until my body is finished

nice

That's all you've got? "nice" You couldn't come up with more than one word. I mean seriously, I've haven't recieved many comments about this project, but the ones that I have got were generally helpful, if not motivational. But that was just lame. (sorry if I'm ragging on you too much, I'm just tired)

Also... I *should* have my part of the body prep finished tomorrow, that will be after I get back from waterskiing. I also need new shoes. But, I AM NOT GOING TO BED UNTIL I AM DONE!!!

really nice










good to see someone taking the initiative to do what many may say could not be done. i hope your not still thinking of installing the 7 series dash. the original should stay. get a dash cover or carpet. i remember 640csi saying that the drive shaft snapped after he installed the 4.0 V8. the brake booster is probably going to be remounted in a different location due to space after stuffing the V12.

Why not the 7 dash?

Thanks for the encouragement.

it is only my opinion, but the 6 dash is ORIGINAL equipment and fits the car just fine. need i say unique. it is your car and you're free to do what ever you want to do with it. didn't mean at all to discourage. i think you'll be opening a big can of worms when it comes to getting it all functional upon re-assembly. just the air ducts could be a challenge. then the console,glove box etc.... this is uncharted territory swapping the dash as far as i know. it may end up looking very nice when completed. i hope you all the best with no issues. sorry if i struck a nerve.
on a side note, i applaude you for the V12 transplant.

No nerves struck, I was truely thankful for the encouragements as the project is nearing a stage where it should be done shortly. It seems everything is taking longer than it should. I had hoped to be finished today, yet all I managed to do was remove the entire wiring system from the car. Needless to say, it was not easy. Maybe next weekend, but as of now... School starts in 7 ½ hours, so I guess I'm done for the week... I'll try to work on it at night though. But with Marching Band, it will get difficult.

It might not be a bad idea to get the engine transplant completed and running before you tackle the dash. To do all at one time could make sorting out any small issues a big nightmare. By completing the engine project first, you will know that something done under the dash is a seperate issue and if it does alter the engine project, you will have an idea of where to look for issues.

how did u remove the rubber/chrome window trim on the drivers side ?

man, i have to say, i've wanted to do this to my 6 since day one, but i really lack the time, capital, and mechanical abilities to pull it off by myself.

when do you plan on having it on the road acorn?

when do you plan on having it on the road acorn?
I am hoping by winter this year...
It might not be a bad idea to get the engine transplant completed and running before you tackle the dash. To do all at one time could make sorting out any small issues a big nightmare. By completing the engine project first, you will know that something done under the dash is a seperate issue and if it does alter the engine project, you will have an idea of where to look for issues.
That is what I was planning. I will have removed all the neccesary electrical components from the 7 and put them into the sixer first. Then the actual drivetrain and all of the mechanical parts that go along with it. I will make everything works before any "fluff" gets installed. After that is done, I will then take it to another shop and have the carpet replaced. At this point I will then begin work on fitting the dash. I just don't want to have anything covered up until it works.
how did u remove the rubber/chrome window trim on the drivers side ?
If you are talking about the piece that goes from one end of the windows over the top to the other, my dad removed that from the driver's side. I removed the passenger side though, and they look the same. What you must do is pull the chrome stripping out of the rubber piece, it will then expose an aluminum rail which is screwed to the body in several locations, and also held in place by clips. I managed to mangle the chrome striping pretty good, so I need to find new stuff. Does anyone know offhand where to look?

It is almost impossible to remove that strip without destroying it. You can get replacement from someone like Steve Haygood at Automoble Solutions, or the dealer.

awsome thanks , ill probally destroy it too, ill just install new ones mine are faded anyway

Would the dealer actually have access to the parts? How much would they run me $$$ wise?

how did u remove the rubber/chrome window trim on the drivers side ?

i've had about a 50/50 succes rate getting the trim off in usable condition. it takes a lot of patience and time. if you can get a corner started i found that pulling at the slightest of an angle while using finger to wedge can sometimes work. this stuff bends very easily.

Would the dealer actually have access to the parts? How much would they run me $$$ wise?

Ahh....yes? Factory parts are generally available from the dealer as well a other sources that bring the parts in directly from the main source in Germany. The other sources are typically cheaper than the dealer.

Have you ever looked at http://www.realoem.com/bmw ?

sorry for hijacking thread but i just removed all the trim in about 1/2 hour .
my tip for removing would be use a flat head screwdirve and slowly pry , i found it wanted to say in the grove on the rubber side , to anyone doing it just go slow dont rush!

hey Acorn, your doing the bodywork your self right ?have u been quoted on paint work yet ? just woundering how much they are charging you?

The bodywork will be done by the body shop, and I haven't got a quote on paint, nor on the actual body work. I still need to find a body shop to do it for me.

More Pictures. There is a bit of difference between these and the last set....
Mostly empty...
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost006.jpg
Hey, What are you doing out here again?
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost013.jpg
And you!?!?!
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost014.jpg
WTF? this isn't a Jeep!!!
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost007.jpg
Actually, the little thing that holds the door open had fractured the door itself, so it is being braised back together:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost012.jpg
That's pretty nasty...
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost008.jpg
Wiring harness for the motor:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost010.jpg
Wiring harness for the car:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost011.jpg
Empty trunk/rear end:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/Emptyalmost001.jpg

After careful consideraton, I think I will go with the original color of the car, which is shown on the inside of the trunk. The paint code for it is 060 and the name of the color is Polaris. Another paint code is 563. Not sure which is accurate.

Polaris Silver is a great color for a shark:

http://www.bmwmregistry.com/userimages/2003/11/01/e0618df82767b8c6f59100b5e8c92a64.jpg

Great work!

I havent been watching this thread regularly, but everytime i look there is great progress.

I bet the wiring removal was more than exhilarating! Carpet install is much easier with none of the dash parts in. I did a carpet removal and install with the center console in, what a pain. I talked to dave (dm635) who did it the same way. We both did the same thing to get the carpet under the fan with nothing to say except putting a few holes in it!

Polaris is a great color for the 6er, i had a meet not too long ago and i saw a great example of a euro car in polaris, very similar looking to the car you just posted Lee, but with Style 5's instead.

Keep up the good work!

-Jeff

Wow, I hadn't realized how good the 6er looks in Polaris, I was just hoping to cheap out and get original paint so the underside of the trunk didn't have to be painted. I really like the color. I need to find a body shop that will roll my fenders and will lay fiberglass front and rear ends, along with side skirts. I really don't care for the aluminum bumpers all that much. Also, my dad, who is an electrical engineer, is going to make my tails and front ambers LED. It will probably end up running close to $250 to do, but I think with the new body and paint, it will be a nice upgrade.

Recommendation: Do the stripes...

what was wrong with original engine? does it have the thermal reactor exhaust manifolds? i can see why they were responsible for cracking heads if that's what they are. there is a lot of wiring in these cars. i've removed a complete harness before, not fun.
i think Jeff meant the heater/ac box on carpet removal/installation and not the center console. i had to cut it in the very front in front of the box and then stuff it back in. i now need a black or gray carpet now that i've changed interior color.

The original engine had a spun main bearing and had ground the crank down too much for a regrind. Then I found the 3.5 M30. Soon after I installed it, I found the 750iL for $500 and knew it had the V12. I looked into it and discovered that it was possible to put the M70 into the 6er. Actually, the 6 was the test body for the M70. Once I had determined that this is what I wanted to do, I began prepping the body for full restoration. I am nearing completion now, as I only have the brake booster and Power steering pump to go in preparing the body for the body shop. I decided that a full widebody kit is not neccesary, I will simply have my fenders rolled 20mm in order to allow room to shove 9" tires under the front end. I will just need a 0 offset wheel to make that work. I simply cannot afford a staggered setup due to tire rotation expenses and wear on removing and reinstalling tires onto the rims. I will also be able to get the wide lip that I was hoping for. The complete harness was not difficult to remove at all. It was pretty much straight forward. I removed it because I want to install the entire harness from the 750, just so I can use the new fuses and will not have to do any splicing on the actual harness.
Oh by the way, the heads are fine.

Sounds very fun. Haha. That V12 in there should be a monster!

Mind explaining how you went about putting the M70 in there? Any custom modifications you had to do? Does it bolt right in? Those kind of things. You got me interested. haha.

It isn't in yet. It should be within the next couple of months. I am having body work done, and will need to be doing work on the motor to prepare it for being put into the 6, along with the adapter plate for the transmission.

Does anyone know of a reputable body shop in the Raleigh area that can lay fiberglass bumpers/sideskirts, and also roll fenders? I have been looking around lately because it should be ready for that by the middle of September. I was just hoping someone on here had luck with any in particular, or knows of someone who did.
Thanks,
Ian

I'd check on the NC Euro (http://www.nceuro.org/) guys...

No room to squeeze turbos in there??? Might make a great project for Sweeney and the turbo crew...............TRUST me, its very worth it.......

There should be room for turbos, but as my wallet is restricted, I can't afford to put them in until after I have the car running to get me to work and such. Currently it's being funded by my dad, and he won't go for twin turbo kit. I've got to pay for that myself. So that will be a while. Once I get my car up and running, I have to pay him back. Once that is done, I'll think about a turbo kit. BTW, pumpedTSI, how much did your turbo kit cost? Just for a ballpark estimate. If it was cheap enough, I might be able to get it all in one shot. That would save me some time, though I still need the adapter plate for my transmission, and all of the body work taken care of. It's just money that I will have to pay my Dad back.

Oh, and NCEuro doesn't seem to have anyone on there who is willing to help me out. Nobody's even posted in my thread. I'm ready for it now, well, by the end of this week I will be, I really need to find one soon so I can begin tearing into the 7.

I put another post out there for you on the general "Euro Talk" forum. Keep an eye over there...I'll post here if anything looks interesting...

Thanks, I appreciate your help.

I used to use this shop a lot but that has been 20 years ago:

CAROLINA CORVETTE & BODY SHOP
7900 CAPITAL BLVD
RALEIGH
NC
27604
919878951

They also used the name Paragon Collision Center. They have been in business a lot of years but I can not say anything about them now.

I have been out of the area too long. You might want to check for some local car shows and see who is doing custom work. So many shops are just interested in insurance work that they do not want to bother with custom and all over jobs. You might have to head out to Apex, Holly Springs or Fuquay to get away from the high dollar real estate and shop prices to match.

Acorn,
my TT is a custom setup that was installed by Dinan back in 92 at the previous owners request with the rest of the Stage 3 package (only 5 of these made and 1 is trashed) at a cost of just over $100k in 1992 dollars. Dinan will NOT resurrect this project so you will be on your own for sourcing, fabrication, etc. A friend of mine (John in DC) has built a home made setup and its very sucessfull, he can be found/contacted on the Roadfly E31 board......he "was" going to market this kit but may have gotten sidetracked...

It seems like Paragon is the place to go. Read a review and they said it was quite the place. I should contact them and find out if they'll do fiberglass construction for front/rear bumpers and side skirts. Does anyone have any idea if they do that?

Corvettes are fiberglass:awink


They did some repairs to a friends Greenwood Vette that required some extensive fabrication to the custom flares.

Rather, would they be willing to do that for my 6er?

The only good way to find out: (919) 878-9510

Let us know.

hey man i was woundering how you got the center consol out im trying to remove the carpet now and im stuck figure you might be able to give me some pointers im leaving the dash in but im gonna take out every thing below it , im thinking i have to drop the glove box and piece below the steering wheel , easy ive done that before question is the electronics (stereo and what not) do the slipout some way or come out with the trim?any tips?

My bimmer was the e12 based one, apparently. I'm sure yours isn't. My stereo was already disconnected when I got it. Actually, you might as well take out the dash, it wasn't really too big of a job in mine. Then again I did also remove the wiring from the entire car right afterwords, so I guess I am kind of biased. Sorry about being unable to help.

JKS-

Look at the e-brake console, pop the 2 rectangles out, remove the (i think 8mm) bolts. Then you can take the 6+ screws out of the sides of the center console. Then there are some that are attached to the dash and stuff. Just start taking it apart from the e-brake console and start tugging. Youll find where the screws are. But you should take the glovebox and knee pad out to make it easier.

-Jeff

oh its all good man i can probally figure it out i might consider it i do have a very small buble on the thing right where the concaved bend goes up for the instrument cluster , but i wanna put a 88-89 leather dash in if i can find one! along with a leather head liner , the rest can stay the same .

yeah thats where i stoped the other day , i guess ill just keep going at it till it comes loose gonna try tomorrow i get of school at 12 so i got all afternoon to get this carpet out .

Carpet sucks. I did it on my car. Removed and replaced with the Air fan in. The center console was out, but the computer thing and CD player we still there, it was terrible. You also have to take the door trim stuff off. I did the whole interior and id kind of want to forget doing it haha. It was worth it though for the change, but it was a big ol pain in the butt.

Sorry Acorn for the minor thread jacking...

-Jeff

yeah only thing still left in my interior is the rear deck and arm rest , and this center consol and dash everything else is striped the carpets half peeled up , i had a leak either in the window seal or the sunroof drain. so the foam sound deanding is all damp i was looking at it and said f*ck it rip it out its only gonna cause problems in the future and ill end up doing it any way.

yeah sorry bout the hijack i tink im gonna start my own project thread, maybe tomorrow i know ima have more stupid questions and im sure some of you 6 lovers love seeing progress on others rides

Any progress on the bodyshop hunt?

Umm... Kinda
I looked into local body shops, and they said custom fabrication will run me into 5 figure pricing. so now I'm looking into body kits online again. There was one mentioned on roadfly, but I forget what it was.

Why not just pick a color and paint the engine compartment now; concentrate on the mechanicals and the conversion and when it is right, then take it to the body shop for the final bodywork and paint? No reason to spend that money now when you do not know how much the rest of the change over is going to require.

That sounds like a really good plan. Painting the engine compartment and putting the mechanicals in wont have an effect on the body getting done. And then you can at least put the car back together and drive it perhaps?

-Jeff

your probally thinking of the zender body kit , you know you could also get a kit for some other car and just cut it in the middle and strech it or shrink it to fit just use long strand fiberglass and corvette bondo to put it back together and you could completly remove the bumpers frona and rear along as you have a solid metal bar in between the frame rails to protect from headons and rear ends

It was MrGlass.com I saw that someone on Roadfly had purchased it, but there was no follow up story on the looks once it was completed.
The reason I want the entire body taken care of at once is to keep it out of my yard until the 7 has been properly taken care of.
Speaking of taking care of things, I finally got the decimated 5 out of my yard. (Thanks to the Town of Garner who recieved a complaint, came to me about it, and I told them to get it out of my yard.) I'd been trying to get rid of it for quite some time. Just a bunch of no shows. People would drop off money and promise more when they returned for the car. They would just never return. Sucks for them.

Well... back to original plan. EREBUNI kit... I'm going to get it.
Yeah, I know, Poor quality. I'm going to take it to a high quality shop and have them make it look good.
Then I'll begin tearing into the 7. Began the Cleaning Process already, without much luck though. I've found some yellowish discoloring to the aluminum surfaces on the motor? Any ideas? Looks like residue from something, but I can't seem to get it off. All I've tried is Jeff's method though, Simple Green and Toothbrush. FAIL!

I wonder, am I the only person who will have one of these Frankensteins? I've seen Scandanavian videos and German videos, but no storys within the USA.

I wonder, am I the only person who will have one of these Frankensteins? I've seen Scandanavian videos and German videos, but no storys within the USA.

Seems like I recall one on the west coast somewhere...pretty sure it wasn't a widebody though. The only car I've seen with a widebody kit in the US is the ///MZilla guy with the M6 (which frankly is the only one I've seen that I like, but if you pull it off like he does, I have hope! :))

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/mzilla/DSCN1453.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/mzilla/DSCN1456.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d122/mzilla/fbc26cdf.jpg

I'm not referring to the body kit, I'm referring to the V12 in swap.

I've gone as far as I can go with the body... I need to get the body kit and then take it to a shop for paint, minor body panel work, and kit install. But for now my project is dead in the water as I have not enough room in the garage to begin work on the 7 right now. Once the 6er's body is at the shop, I'll rearrange all the stuff in there and sell the Laser Sailboat that I have in there. If anyone local is interested, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

If you have any hopes of getting it to SESF 08, you better start with the mechanicals now. Most body shops will tell you weeks and take months. Adding the body kit will add to the time so be prepared.

Did you ever talk to the other guy doing this about the trans adapter plate?

can u still buy the eurnbonie < u know what i mean, bodykit anymore new?
u could reinforce the bodykit your sell just lay some glas on the inside to strengthen and lay and sand some corvetbondo to make it as smooth as possiable then hit it with primer .


some one posted a while back someone who has the kit installed if some one has it could u post it again i forget what a properly installed one looks like again, if i remember it could be a good alternative to the euro conversion depending on the cost comparison if you DIY it

oh an if i were you id try mounting the kit before it hits the shop, personally id just completley remove the bumpers and make a brace from bumper shock to bumper shock that can be bolted on and off , through the kit up and position it then take a look at what has to be done to get the kit attached to the brace , build it up with fiberglass and metal make some supports and you done saving about 2000 worth of work thats how the bodyshop make the custom kit i had on my truck, cool thing is if done that way all you have to do is unbolt the kit from the bumper shocks and through the bumperback on and its original again.
think about it

I've got a friend who works at a body shop with capabilities to do side jobs, so it won't get shoved to the bottom of a long list. And I'm just too lazy to do any bodywork myself. The guy who mentioned the adapter plate did not actually have one made, nor was he doing this project, he simply knew it was possible. I need the motor and the tranmission and take them to a machine shop and have them take care of it.
I've found the Erebuni kit online, but I have attempted to open a dialogue with the Mr Glass guy from California, I emailed him last night, but he has yet to respond.

2nd day without a response from Mr Glass, I need this soon! I wish I had more room in the garage, but I cannot do anything aout it until the boat is gone.

i know how you feel my dads completely disassembled sixer is in the garage so ive got the drive way. That car will be sweet once its done

A different kit, but another widebody kit that doesn't horrify me...

http://i20.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/bd/76/247d_3.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150172712106&rd=1

Ill give the creator credit on that blue widebody 6er. He put a lot of work into it, but give the car back E24 rear lights!!! He did great work, eegh.

-Jeff

Ill give the creator credit on that blue widebody 6er. He put a lot of work into it, but give the car back E24 rear lights!!! He did great work, eegh.

-Jeff

I may like it even better than Mzillas car, mainly because it looks more OEM. The rear lamps look busy, but aren't awful. I'm not a huge fan of the way those wheels look, but I'm guessing they have an offset that avoids huge spacers.

I will soon order the Erebuni body kit online. Hoping B-day money will offset some of the cost.

It's been a while. I've been unable to contact anyone that has the Erebuni kit. Looks like I'll have to go with Racing Dynamics, unless anyone knows where to find a full Zender kit. I contacted a local body shop about a custom job. Their estimate was close to 10 grand. Out of my budget. I'm thinking of getting the RD kit, having the rear redone to house dual rear pipes, and having flares put on the fenders. It's been so long since I've had actual progress going on my car.

ive been keeping up with your project. Dont get discouraged, there are always little bumps in the road. Your project is amazing and will be worth the hassle once complete you will see. Just make sure you stick with it. I cannot wait to see this beast inperson at this years sesf or next years incase its not done. Good luck and keep the updates coming!!

If you happen to find a front Zender spoiler, sideskirts, and rear apron I have the spoiler for you!

The 635 I have has a Zender rear spoiler that I won't be using and would be willing to sell it.

Good luck with the project! :buttrock

ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

how much ive been looking for a spoiler..

its it just the rubber lip thing..cuz thats what im looking for...

and if your in mi we could arange pick up? let me know...

send me pm..

that would be a great christmas present to myself..

I've decided I will do all of the body work myself. Ha. I want to find an M3 Widebody kit (Preferably the GTR one) and modify it myself to fit my car. It will be a lot of work, so I fear that I will have to buy another car to use until this is done. I also plan on lacquer painting my car. I will do this myself as well. This plan was inspired by the fact that the body shop's main cost was hours, so I'll learn to do it myself.
If anyone can help me find an M3 GTR body kit, that would be very helpful.

Has anyone here heard of Vfiber. I've seen videos that show their products as downright amazinly durable. Has anyone worked with the material that could tell me how easy (or hard) it is to work with compared to urethane?

Well, I finished cleaning my garage, and moved the 750 in there for maintenence on the motor (preparing it for transplant) I removed the throttles and have them prepared for cleaning, though the screws are marinating in WD-40 at the moment because they seem to be stuck very well. Hopefully I'll have some pictures tomorrow morning.

No pictures, but...
Now that I've cleaned the throttles, it has more power than before, and revs probably 3x as fast as before. It's amazing. The amount of pull that comes from that motor through the auto tranny is crazy, much better 'feel' of acceleration than my dad's Evo VIII had.

Hey I really like the project idea I have read all the forum pages and I think this is surely going to be a one of a kind E24 :) now I have a question I know the whole bigger engine thing will make the car faster and more powerful but wont the heavier engine cause a slant to the front or are you going to do something about that that kinda levels it out?

The M70 V12 weighs a mere 50 lbs more than the stock M30 I6. I will compensate for this added weight by moving the battery to the trunk. this will remove weight from the front and add it to the rear. I will also be redoing the entire suspension on the car.

Remarkable project: Reminds me of the Russian Volga BMW 850 hybrid! Congratulations.

Google Volga V12 BMW 850.

To have my project compared with one of that calibur is very... inspirational. I'm really hoping that I'm happy with my completed project, or else someone on here will have a very nice one of a kind car.

I've found a few kits that I like, but none that are perfect. Here are some links. Tell me what you think:
http://www.kgsengineering.com/9905-e46-gtr-full-widebody-kit-p-3694.html

http://www.grounddynamics.com/merchant/mainpage2.htm?gclid=CNvb_5T0iJECFQ4bgQod8SDMAQ

http://www.grounddynamics.com/merchant/mainpage2.htm?gclid=CNvb_5T0iJECFQ4bgQod8SDMAQ

why not do all the prep work yourself, then have the shop spray it? You can save a ton on paint work if you do all the prep yourself

Because I want to learn how to do all of it so if need be I can do it again. Also because it will add more of a sense of pride if it looks really nice.

Were you thinking of the early 7 series body kit? I like the front spoiler somewhat and the rocker skirts but I don't really care for the rear valance, looks too modern, too rounded. Didn't see any flares.

Dwight

I was going to try to update the styling and cover the bumpers. to me, they are really hideous, so I'm going to cover them, so I don't have to see them. I also love the look of fender flares. So I'm going to add them. Also I want wider rubber. hehe

Sorry if my images go down... I am reconfiguring photobucket as the main portion has become way too unwieldly to find a picture. I should have them back up soon.

This weekend I did a bit of work. Got the motor running right, then not at all...:eek:

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/7er/BMW002.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW009.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW012-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW019.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW021.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/7er/BMW016.jpg

MOAR!! im so excited to see this finish...ive been watching this thread since it began!

What body kit is on the red one:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://lalacars.com/88~635red/P0003655.JPG&imgrefurl=http://lalacars.com/bmw88~635red.html&h=480&w=720&sz=74&hl=en&start=234&tbnid=RSw-H329uQK-jM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=140&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbmw%2Bsilver%2B750il%26start%3D216%26 gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3D N

If you do end up actually getting that m70 into your 6, please do not ruin it with a body kit. Just put euro bumpers on it and be done.

^Was that really neccesary? I mean seriously. Why would you come in here doubting my ability, first to get the motor in, and second, to pull off a good body kit. AND if you'd even looked at my previous post, you'd realize that I was looking at a M6/Euro kit.

So, back to the motor...
I removed the Autobox, not too hard, though it spewed AT fluid everywhere, which made the garage reek so bad that I nearly threw up. I then put it onto the engine stand and began removing stuff.
The first to go were the fuel rails. Once they were gone I began work on the Intake. It took a bit of work as it interlaces with itself so that one cannot simply access the bolts holding it on. I removed the coolant pipes that run down the center to the back of the motor in order to get a better look at what I needed to get to. Eventually I manage to squeeze the 10mm socket and many extensions down between the pipes. I finally got all the nuts off, and realized that the spark plug wires must be removed. Simple, 10mm socket, bolt comes off, but both intakes had to be removed simultaneously, then disengaged from each other by closing them together like a book. I filled the open intake holes with paper towels and set to work with the air compressor blowing the crap off of it.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW002.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW004.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW006-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW008-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW010-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW011-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW012.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW2ndset001.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW2ndset009.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW2ndset011.jpg

WAY TO GO!!! I bet that was fun pulling that powerplant out. A buddy and i just pulled the motor and trans out of a busted E30, and that was challenging with the accessories on the thing, having an engine that size has to require some patience!

That engine is going to look badass in the e24 when you get all that cosmoline off of it.

I like how plain the valve covers are becasue they are hidden by the intakes! Im guessing you are going to spend a lot of time getting that engine clean before you put it into the 6er?

This car is going to be a true gem when its finished. Cant wait to see it come together, and im sure you cant either!

-Jeff

I was planning on having the valve covers powdercoated white, and the intakes anodized blue. The valve covers are slightly visible even with the intakes on.

that front bumper on that red six you posted looks almost zender or racing dynamics...but i might be wrong...and if i am than i have no idea

hha

I was planning on having the valve covers powdercoated white, and the intakes anodized blue. The valve covers are slightly visible even with the intakes on.

Anodizing does not look like most people expect on cast AL parts and is not as durable as powdercoating. I would suggest powdercoating with a translucent blue if you are after the anodized blue look. Also, if you are anodizing the cast AL intake, you would need to remove any steel studs, inserts of fasteners prior to the process.

Also if you decide to replace the injectors with the later style ford injectors; I have a set of 12 of the design III composite ones available.

Would those injectors work with the current system installed? Would it require any modification to the stock setup to make them work?

I thought anodizing was supposed to actually convert the top layer of material... Can you explain why powdercoating is more durable?

Anodizing is to AL as stain is to wood and powder coat is like paint. Standard anodize penetrates about .001" and builds up about the same. The problem with anodizing color is acheiving color stability expecially in anything other than black. Look how the anodize wears on the bumpers and trim. The color can be removed with some common chemicals that have no effect on powder coat. Also as mentioned the cast AL does not anodize as well as machined AL and will have a dull powdery appearance. There are advantages to anodize but I do not see any necessity here. If you do decide to have it done, let me know because we are typically doing a weekly batch of red and blue. We always have black and clear and sometimes do other colors as needed. Many of my boat parts were anodized for additional corrosion resistance (salt water) but were then powdercoated or painted for appearance.

I may be wrong about he injectors. It seems the ones I have will fit the e32 735 and some 740s but not the 750. I have the all yellow ones (the 2nd one) listed on the following website.

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsBMW.asp

I've removed more crap from my motor:

heat sheild
exhaust
air conditioning compressor
mounting brackets
starter
oil resevoirHere are the pics:

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW001-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW002-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW005-1.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW006-2.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW009-2.jpg

Working on cleaning the damn grease and dirt off of the motor. Though at the moment taking a dinner break (kinda got caught up in it)

Before: :(
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW006-3.jpg

Current: :)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW010-2.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M70%20V12/BMW012-2.jpg


P.S. Jeff: I'm jealous, your Wolfie thread has 2339 more views than my 650CSi thread. :eyecrazy:shifty:eyecrazy

Well, here is one more post for you. I have to give it to you, you are fearless(or as I was at that age, just plain stupid). Don't let that last thought deter you!!! Go for it!!! I'll talk to Jeff later.

I made a sandbox today. Gargantuous. 2ft x 2ft x 3ft. I'll try to post pictures tomorrow.

I think the Wolfie thread is older than yours. :)

In any case, good progress! If you don't get the car together for SESF, you should come anyway. Last year I went in the iX.

Man, I bet that engine stand is screaming. Looks impressive. Keep up the good work.

Looks great man! Wouldnt have known that block was that color haha. That engine is going to look great between the shock towers in the sixer!

Its funny from some of the views because it really only looks like a straight six, but its really like 2 straight sixes sharing a crankshaft haha!

-Jeff

Sorry about the delay, I got a bit sidetracked. So here's the sandblaster:

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblaster003.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblaster001.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblaster002.jpg

I began working with it and practiced on the valve cover from the original 3.3 M30 motor. I think I did a pretty good job on it. I'll go take a picture now. I'll post it soon.

That is awsome never seen a DIY sandblaster before!

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedvalvecover003.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedvalvecover006.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedvalvecover008.jpg

Exhaust Heat Shield
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedexhaustheatshield001.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedexhaustheatshield002.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/sandblastedexhaustheatshield005.jpg

Looks pretty good - got any before pix?

Hmmm...
This is the best picture I have of the valve cover before. It was painted black. The paint was coming off though: :eek:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/M30%20I6%20Donor/BMW062.jpg

For the heat shields, I have no before pics.:( They really weren't that bad. Just some surface rust in areas. I think I'll take that one through again to try and get the edge rust gone.:stickoutt

green block huh...

hmm

Yeah... I'll sell it to you. It's on the floor of my garage.

your pictures aren't working at all...

Acorn , I like the progress! especially the way the big Block is cleaning up and your bead booth! Hey you can never tell, by the time you really get into this your thread count is gonna climb fast!hahaha. But I figure if you're busy working on it that means no time for threads so you'll have to balance it out. I was wondering, are you planning on headers or the original 12cyl exhaust manifolds? Joe

Depends on If I can find headers cheap.

I can see the pictures... can everyone else see them?

i can now...im on safari. just not on firefox

I can see them on FireFox.

IE7 Ftmfw!

mozilla firefox rules!!!

Anything still good off that B32?

-Jeff

B32 is which one? The 3.3 or 3.5?

3.3L

-Jeff

What is it you are looking for? I can check and see what I've got.

Like your booth. Can you run glass beads through that or is it just sand? You might want to watch your pressure so you don't pit the aluminum too much. I love the way it cleans up, keep up the good work!!

Fuel rail/injectors...

I plan on working on mine soon, and if you think yours are in good shape, id be interested.

Thanks,

-Jeff

I think the compressor is set at 90psi right now. I'm not sure about glass beads, depends on how small they are I would guess.

I'll have to look at the injectors/ fuel rail. They should be fine, but I don't know for sure. What's wrong with yours?

Mine are just old. Im removing them to put new seals on, and attempt to do a mild cleaning of them.

You should be able to use glass bead, just make sure you get a smaller nozzle for it. Its what ive been using on all the aluminum and other parts for the porsche im working on and what im going to use on my intake and valve cover, and other parts...

-Jeff

smaller nozzle?

For the gun, im pretty sure there are different sized nozzles for the different types of media. At least that is what my boss has told me. We have a skatblast cabinet in the shop, and it uses glass bead. Not sure the psi, but it is a very nice cabinet..

-Jeff

probably a whole hell of a lot better than mine. Whatever. I'm thinking of redoing the feed system. Running it out of an alternate source, and returning the sand via shopvac to the alternate source once it's empty. My current setup has issues with consistant flow. In the images I actually have my future setup partially hooked up. I was using that to transfer the sand into the 'blast chamber'

Jeff: What does your cabinet look like. How is the flow routed? Furthermore, where can I find glass beads?

Ill get you some info tomorrow...ill take some pictures of the cabinet and look through the parts sheet that came with it.

-Jeff

Parts: courtesy of alpinacsi

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts005.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts006.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts007.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts008.jpg

I am glad they will finally be put to use. :)

Yeah, in a couple months.

Finished the sandblaster...

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts021.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts017.jpg

Though tonight I spent cleaning up my dad's new purchase:

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t292/AcornXP/BimmerParts024.jpg

found this vid you might wanna take a peek at

http://youtube.com/watch?v=dFWOrVtO8dE&feature=related

I've seen a few videos of the E24 V12s, ooh boy do they yell.

Depends on If I can find headers cheap.

I can see the pictures... can everyone else see them?

The only M70 5.0 Liter V12 headers that I could find are on www.E31parts.com and they aren't even for sale yet!:mad They should be fitted for a E31 850 but it might work for your car, if they ever are for sale. Jim is a very easy to get along with person and he should be able to hook you up when they are for sale. Personally I would rather make my own headers but that is from six weeks of learning to Tig weld and having access to a pipe bender.;)

I really like your conversion and your 6 should fly with probably a thousand pounds less of weight. Also if you would like to increase the power a bit Wolf/Wokke makes some performance chips which raise the Horsepower to 337 from 300 and the Torque to 390 ft-lbs from 330 ft-lbs. He hangs out on the 8 board and sells his chips on ebay under the seller name of Wokke_2000 for usually around $230 dollars.

P.O. had motor chipped = 365 hp. Seems high, I'll find out once installed though. Take it to a dyno.

Well, it's been a month, and I've got pretty much nothing done.
What I have done is one valve cover and most of the other little bits and pieces have gone through the sandblaster. The second valve cover and intakes should be soon.
I have cut out a plate to weld in to replace the rusted out driver's floor panel.
Although, since the 7 is drive by wire, I might have to put the pedal assembly from it into the 6.
I still need to remove the diff from the 7 and figure out how to get the mounts into the 6.
The original diff mounts are shot in the 6, so no matter what, it will need new stuff.
Somebody decided it would be a good idea to bolt some crap through the trunk pan above it in order to hold it in place. Retards.
My main cause for lack of progress is that I got a '95 Civic to drive until the Bimmer is completed. I've had to do some work on that. Installing cruise and power locks at the moment. Yeah, and I need a job to get money to finish it. Oh well.

You still planning to come to SharkFest? (You'll have fun with or without a Shark - I know first-hand!)

You still planning to come to SharkFest? (You'll have fun with or without a Shark - I know first-hand!)

I will be experiencing that this year.

That is undecided. I might only be able to be there for a day trip, get up at like 5 and head out there. Head back around 9. It's a 2 hour trip.

alpina... your not bringing a car to SESF?!

That is undecided. I might only be able to be there for a day trip, get up at like 5 and head out there. Head back around 9. It's a 2 hour trip.

Nah - more like 90 min., but either way, I hope you'll come. Should be fun!


I will be experiencing that this year.


:(:eek::eyecrazy:eek::eyecrazy:( What???? Details?

Alright, here goes. I have all of my M30 parts for sale. This includes:
3.5 M30 with new headgasket, entirely cleaned, and painted (though kind of not appealing to some) Selling as a single item.
265 5 speed manual transmission for M30
3.3 block and all parts except crankshaft. Completely disassembled, so tell me what you need.
3.25 Open Differential x2 (I think they are both 3.25, not looking at the moment, I'll update this later)
Tail lights from 535i
Rear bumper from 535i
Automatic Transmission for M30

Email questions and offers to: The.Ian.Fisher@gmail.com

how much for the 265 and what is the condition of it...miles etc...

-Jeff

Your project looks amazing. I have amassed a load of information. Thanks!
I have one question for you. The support of the differential of the 633, especially the 82 E24, is a little flimsy. I had mine attached by way of welding a few times. I am planning on installing an 85-rear suspension to stabilize it. Have you done or planning on doing anything with that? I read the whole thread and seem to have not seen any mention of that.

Jeff: When pulled from the car, it worked fine. Went into all the gears and whatnot. The miles are unknown. The clock had 128k miles on it, but the P.O. was a little on the iffy side, so the miles are unknown. Make an offer. I figure I'd let you guys get the shot at it before craigslist.

MaitreG: This I have experienced as well. The previous owner ran a few bolts through the trunk, and I am not happy with this. Actually, I am currently removing the entire rear assembly in order to correct the problem that I have with getting the LSD from the 750 mounted. It's too wide, or the axles are too long, one or the other. I'm trying to figure out a way to get around needing to replace the axles, or have them shortened. This might have to happen still, but I am trying to figure out how to move the assembly outward. This means my fender flares will be wider in the back than in the front :awink.

Thanks for the response Acorn. I am looking forward to your finished product and wish you lots of luck.:)

So, I got NO work done over the last week and a half because my dad blew the motor in his Del Sol. It has consumed the entire garage. We were about to remove the entire trailing arm crap from the sixer, when, as luck would have it, he lost either a main or rod bearing in at least one of the cylinders. Fortunately he has a replacement motor which should go in soon. (It's sitting hooked up to the engine hoist, ready to be dropped in) But it was really late last night and we didn't want to screw anything up.

So, in short, this sucks.

I am about to depress everyone who was interested in my project:









No, I didn't give up. I simply cannot afford to get the parts to mate my 265 to the motor, or to get the proper transmission for it. That means slushbox.

I am about to depress everyone who was interested in my project:









No, I didn't give up. I simply cannot afford to get the parts to mate my 265 to the motor, or to get the proper transmission for it. That means slushbox.

save up for a few months? so it how you really want it the first time and you will be happier with the results.

I can understand why it would be rather humiliating to have work stopped by a Del Slow.
As far as not having the money, be patient and save. Crap, look at me--I have been working on my car for five years and it's not anywhere as involved as yours. Money is one of my main issues with it.
Just keep the faith, it will be worth it in the end.

Ya see, I'd do that. I'd wait, save up, and get it. But there's one big problem:
It's not my Garage. My dad is getting rather impacient about it sitting in there and not finished. Furthermore, I am one of the most impacient people alive. I want the thing done. I'll deal with it as an auto. It should still get up and go. and beyond that, it will be simple to swap them out once I find one. Just get it and a new driveshaft. Meanwhile I'll be able to drive it.
This is, of course, changeable if the members of this forum are willing to donate to my project :cashwalle

What parts are you lacking?

6 speed manual transmission for M70 motor.
All parts associated with 6 speed manual transmission.